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Messages - Itinerant Harper

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Routes / Re: Deception Pass State Park, Washington
« on: January 12, 2017, 12:42:50 pm »
So I grew up on Fidalgo Island (and later Whidbey) about 2 miles from Deception Pass Bridge. I've ridden, walked and driven across it more time than I can count. So here is the insider view: It is of course legal to ride across it.  It is plenty busy but it is in two sections with Pass Island in-between.  You always want to stop at Pass Island and let cars go by.  The other important thing to note is that most people are looking at the view and often drive very slow.  Sometimes it seems like they appreciate the "excuse" to drive extra slow being behind a bicycle.  Locals of course may not be as susceptible to the view (though I've never grown weary of it) and may grit their teeth a bit. But again, it is two short sections.  When riding across take the lane and ignore the view and focus on your peddling. Once on Pass Island stop and walk out to the center of each span to take in the views. Also when starting from either side worth waiting for a "strategic" moment to pull out where there is a gap in cars. Often cars trying to turn to the pull offs will create some big gaps on busy days.

Again with the planes, it is terrible and I have to say those of us who lived there were generally not fans.  However their practice was not a daily, nor even weekly occurrence.  It was an occasional thing, though like I said above, could be all day when it occurs. That being said on Fidalgo Island the plane noise is plenty audible on the south end as they turn around to return toward the base.  But on the north end, where Anacortes is and Washington Park with it's H/B sites it isn't much of a concern. There is lots of great riding on Fidalgo (Check out the Community Forest lands if you like some off road riding) and also on Whidbey (especially South Whidbey) and great hiking, trails and camping on both islands.  I wouldn't pass it up due to occasional plane noise.

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Routes / Re: Deception Pass State Park, Washington
« on: January 11, 2017, 11:46:25 am »
The road down to Cranberry lake is certainly a good descent, but nothing too severe. I'd say no stretch of it greater than 9% grade and less most of the time.

You definitely can get airplane noise from NAS Whidbey at Deception Pass State Park.  They do 'touch and go's' with multiple planes in a tight pattern all day sometimes.  Most days this won't occur, but it's not a good time when it does.

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Routes / Re: Why does the PC route bypass Olympic Peninsula?
« on: August 11, 2016, 04:11:43 pm »
It would be interesting to see why ACA chose such an inland routing. I have a strong feeling it's because they wanted to avoid the Astoria-Megler Bridge across the Columbia, which is daunting for some (and would probably lead to complaints at ACA.) The ACA route uses the Westport Ferry instead, which is cool, but that section of US 30 from Westport west to Astoria is busy and can be hairy.

I bet you are right about that. There is no perfect route there, but that is often the case.  Personally what I really like to see on maps, is a lot of options.  I think it'd be nice if ACA had all of these route options on the maps (though obviously there are limitations). Like the Kirkendall and Spring they could easily have a Coastal Route and and Inland Route.  Something I hope they consider for the next edition (and hey ACA I'm available to help with WA routing - there are some better options than K/S have as well ;) )

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Routes / Re: Why does the PC route bypass Olympic Peninsula?
« on: August 11, 2016, 02:41:41 pm »
The Kirkendall/Spring book goes west from Olympia to the coast, though. And the combination of SR 6 and the Willapa Hills Trail west from Chehalis is another great way to get to the coast at Raymond.

Kirkendall/Spring has both an Inland route along the Sound to Shelton (where it turns West) and a Coast route using 101 around the Peninsula.  They take 101 around Crescent Lake which as you note is among the worst sections on the the coast.  There I'd instead take 112 along the Strait of Juan de Fuca as WA Parks does.

In general there is nothing wrong with ACA's "I-5" route (though basically it's Cascade's long available STP route) and those of us who ride down there certainly ride all over that. It's just not the Pacific Coast in an area where actually riding along the Pacific Coast is an option and pretty great.

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Routes / Re: Why does the PC route bypass Olympic Peninsula?
« on: August 11, 2016, 12:01:45 pm »
Yeah I think it's ridiculous that the ACA route doesn't actually include the WA Pacific Coast.  I've lived in WA for 40 years and have been out in the peninsula throughout that time and just can't agree that there has been major changes there that has suddenly made it "tourable". The services have remained the same (if towns have grown of course) and are pretty reasonably space out.  The WA coast is a far more rugged and wild coast then the tame (though wonderful) OR Coast. Only very Northern CA coast compares and is of course different.  And while there are plenty of places where the route ducks in from the coast it's not like you are riding on the beach the whole time on any stretch of the coast.  Not to mention there is a distinct difference between the northern and southern stretches of the coast and on the southern end you are pretty close to the water for long stretches if you use 105, 109 as well as 101. 

Finally even if you want to take the inland route along the Sound and Hood Canal at the very least the Coast Route should from Elma (where WA Parks inexplicably starts) take the back roads and 105 to the Coast at Twin Harbors State park and down the coast and along the bays to Cape Disappointment.  There is great views, great parks and great riding on this stretch and this isn't part of WA Parks, so no way to do all of the WA coast on ACA rates...  Why anyone would want to take the inland route near I-5 (which does have some nice places, but just doesn't compare) beyond being in a real hurry, is bizarre to me.

In my opinion you haven't "ridden the Pacific Coast" if you don't do the WA section and I always recommend people to use the Kirkendall and Spring book along with the ACA maps for this reason.

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Pacific Northwest / Re: Overnight Parking for Iron Horse Trail
« on: August 03, 2016, 05:17:50 pm »
So there is parking for the Iron Horse Trail at Rattlesnake Lake. There is specific parking for the trailhead with a pay station at it past the parking for the the lake.  There are several other trailheads where one can pay to park and then get up to the IHT.

Additionally it wouldn't be hard to find parking in North Bend where you could leave your car and then ride the Upper Snoqualmie Valley Trail to Rattlesnake Lake and the IHT.

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Routes / Re: Sierra Cascades, Primitive Camping, and Bears. Oh my!
« on: June 20, 2016, 11:46:11 am »
So there is lots of wild camping opportunities on this route.  You are pretty much in National Forest Land the entire time where it is legal to camp. This is not the case in National Parks of course. So for instance I camped in the Nat'l Forest just outside of Crater Lake National Park.

As for bears they are there. I never encountered one close up though, but of course YMMV. I always hung my food up if there wasn't a bear box. My basic procedure is to take precautions but don't stress about it.

So I'd go North to South. First off the maps are setup that way and while ACA always makes a token effort to do the opposite direction the maps are just not as useful the other way (for instance the elevation charts only have the distances from left to the right in the "preferred" direction. They easily could put at the top of the chart the distances in the opposite direction but they chose not to).  Secondly the mountains and passes get higher and higher from North to South.  Just starting out before you get acclimatized to climbing a pass every day (and you will, sometimes more than one) it is better to have the lower climbs. Thirdly the heat.  It gets really hot in SoCal (record temps right now for instance) so it's better to start in the north where its cooler. It does depend on the time of year and such you are doing it.  When I rode it, I was often hitting 90 - 100 degree (F) days in the San Joaquin. I chose not to ride the final map (starts in the Mojave pretty much) due to the heat and reports I'd gotten that a number of the campgrounds had no water.  All the locals recommended spring or autumn for riding the Mojave/Joshua Tree area not August/Sept. which is when I was there.

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Pacific Northwest / Re: Iron Horse Trail conditions?
« on: January 15, 2016, 11:24:17 am »
I rode North Bend to Cle Elum on 38s. There is at least one section where it's pretty soft but I just took it slower. Personally I wouldn't ride it on 28s, but I wouldn't ride pavement on 28s either, but I'm sure you could make do. It'd be more pleasant on something 35 and up though.

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Routes / Re: Three weeks - Pacific Coast or Sierra Cascades
« on: January 08, 2016, 12:05:45 pm »
Having done both of those routes, I offer the following. In three weeks I rode from Seattle to SF on the Pacific Coast with two rest days and a few days in SF.  So pushing it you could go further.  But worth taking time off on the OR Coast, the Redwoods and SF in my opinion.  On the Sierra Cascades from Portland I made it to Lake Tahoe in 3 weeks. In those three weeks I took one day off at Crater Lake (worth doing that IMO).  The Sierra Cascades in that stretch, if you are riding 50+ miles a day, includes a pass or a summit every day.  I'm sure someone could (and have) blasted through that faster but it's a tough route.  That section also includes several long stretches with minimal services. You want to have a water filter. It definitely is more wilderness riding than the coast, but coming into CA there is a long stretch on pretty busy roads.

The other issue I'd really think about is the weather. In May it'll be rainy on the coasts and there will still be snow in the mountains. The mountains will also be rainy where it isn't snowing.

Given your time constrains I'd personally do the Pacific Coast. Its a beautiful ride and there is lots to see and do. Many little towns and such will provide comfort and entertainment even on rainy days.  Lots of options for camping and for those days when you want a break from the rain hotels, hostels, etc.

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Routes / Re: Anyone ride on 101 along Lake Crescent in Washington
« on: September 14, 2015, 11:34:12 am »
I've ridden 101 around Lake Crescent and also 113/112. I'd definitely do 113/112 eastbound for sure. I personally enjoyed that ride a lot - in the woods, on the coast with many tantalizing glimpses of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Nice country riding as you come into Port Angeles.  It is more up and down as you go around inlets and river egresses but that's great riding IMO.  Lake Crescent on the other hand is a beautiful lake but you need to spend a lot of time looking at the road and especially the traffic coming up behind (mirror recommended).  Going westbound the lake is on your right (beyond a wooden barrier most of the time) but felt safer. Going eastbound, which is also slightly uphill the bulk of the way) there are shear rock walls most of the time.

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Pacific Northwest / Re: Good routes from Bremerton to Astoria?
« on: May 17, 2015, 11:50:29 am »
One thing I should add about the above route, is that 101 between Cosmopolis and Raymond isn't the most ideal. Definitely fine if you need  a more direct route (the person I put that route together for originally needed a shorter route) but it won't be the most scenic and logging truck free. So this route which takes 105 to the coast and around the peninsula to Raymond adds some miles but is more scenic and gets to the Pacific Ocean.

https://goo.gl/maps/QXKqi

Since I was editing the maps I removed Seattle and added Astoria so you can see the whole route. At 200 miles this could easily be a nice 3-4 day trip, preferably 4. Don't miss Cape Disappointment State Park and the endless beaches up around Twin Harbors or Grayland Beach State Parks. There are definitely a few cutoffs and options if you want to shave off a few miles, but they often will have more logging traffic and/or worse roads. Most of them are fine though in my experience. This is definitely the most scenic route between Seattle and Astoria.

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Pacific Northwest / Re: Good routes from Bremerton to Astoria?
« on: May 16, 2015, 02:30:32 pm »
Here’s a link to a Google Map with my preferred route from Bremerton to Long Beach:

https://goo.gl/maps/7OF7H

This has some great riding along Hood Canal, through the woods and small little towns and is still pretty direct. I’ve done it in two-three days, staying in Shelton (slightly off the route) or camping at Potlatch State park. I’d personally do it over three days staying at Potlatch, then Lake Sylvia and finally Long Beach. With a lighter load you can definitely do this route in two days.  From Long Beach it's just 101 to Astoria (across the harrowing Astoria Bridge) and 101 down the coast in OR as far as you want to go. Pick up the Cycling OR map which has tons of great resources on it.

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Food Talk / Re: vegetarian trek on the transamerica?
« on: December 09, 2014, 11:23:25 am »
Yeah I should say I've had to turn down offered food which I always feel a bit bad about. Also because of that I never stay with Warm Showers hosts or anything like that.

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Food Talk / Re: vegetarian trek on the transamerica?
« on: November 16, 2014, 06:17:01 pm »
I didn't.  Rice takes a long time to cook on an alcohol stove.  But sitting in the city park in a town that only has hairdressers, a gas station and maybe a bar I had time.  I used dehydrated beans which are faster. Another tip for people who want to cook real food is that ziplock bags are your friend. Get the double locking freezer bags and then you can buy jars and cans of food and put them in those bags and discard the heavy, bulk packaging.

On my last long tour I switched from rice to a 'whole grain mix' made up of quonia, millet and amaranth. I'd top it off whenever I'd find a Coop with a bulk section.  That cooks much faster and substitutes for rice in most anything I made.

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Food Talk / Re: vegetarian trek on the transamerica?
« on: November 16, 2014, 04:37:28 pm »
I'm vegetarian and rode cross country on the Northern Tier a couple years ago.  My basic advice is be prepared to carry more food.  I had a four pannier setup on that tour but I normally just use two front panniers and a saddlebag so I had a lot more space. I devoted the main compartment of my front pannier to food which let me carry a decent amount so I could stock up. I found, with only a few exceptions (East Montana for instance), there would be something close to a supermarket every four days or so. So I would stock up on my basics plus a few things for the next couple of days and then use the small town stores to supplement with more perishable things like cheese, fruit and vegetables (if available).  I carried dried things like rice and beans, but I like to spend time cooking each evening  (especially when you are camping at city parks and such where there isn't too much else to do)  so I carried staples that in a pinch could serve as a meal and supplement it with what I could find. This all could be done vegan I think, many of my meals pretty much were.

In the midwest on the Northern Tier, which I imagine will be similar to the Midwest on the TransAm in the tiny town stores it'd often be pretty hard to find much vegetables. So worth carrying more of those when you can find them.  I also found that even things like vegetable soup would usually be the kind with beef broth. You always can find bread, peanut butter and cheese of varying quality.  Tortillas are usually pretty available and less bulky then bread. Mac and Cheese is usually available.  Plenty of eggs if you are willing to eat those.  The other problem I had was finding veggies in small quantities, even the big stores in the midwest would only sell things like carrots and such in big bags.  Often I'd get those bags of pre sliced things so you could get less. Getting things like Tofu I could only really do in towns with a coop as if a big store even had it, it be some huge package.

At restaurants I think vegan would be harder.  Grilled Cheese can be had if you ignore what it's going to be grilled on. Pancakes, waffles, fried potatoes likewise.  That old standby salad is harder to find in the midwest and will usually be iceberg lettuce based. That being said I was occasionally surprised by some little town being hipper than you'd have suspected, or some random looking diner having a sautéed veggie sandwich, or a good coffee shop that might make pannis or some such.  But you can't bank on that at all.

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