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Messages - RussSeaton

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General Discussion / Re: Do you pack a Spare Tire???
« on: June 25, 2016, 08:48:41 pm »
On longer tours I will carry a spare 700C tire.  A lighter foldable model.  Not a heavy duty one like is on the bike.  On a couple tours I have needed the spare.  For short around home touring I will not carry a spare tire.

Gear Talk / Re: LHT 26" wheels
« on: June 20, 2016, 05:40:58 pm »
Any Shimano hubs should be fine.  And about any aluminum heavy duty rim should be fine.  Name brand or unknown brand, doubt it makes too much difference when building a heavy duty wheel.  You're not looking for high tech, super strong, lightest, thinnest, newest rims.  You are looking for basic, heavy duty, thick aluminum rims made out of the same aluminum that has been produced for 50 years.  I've had good luck with Alex brand rims.  Friend used a Velocity Dyad rim on a rear tandem recently.  48 spoke so its probably strong enough.  Had some Mavic Open Pro rims that cracked at the eyelets.  So I don't like Mavic rims.

General Discussion / Re: Pannier Discussion
« on: June 18, 2016, 05:01:21 pm »
most of the pannier is not plastic. They are typically a coated fabric.

I've been touring with the same Ortlieb panniers for over 20,000 miles,

Actually, most of the pannier IS plastic.  What do you think the cordura, polyethylene, polyester fabric is?  Its plastic.  If you wear tight Lycra shorts while riding a bike, you are wearing plastic.  Lycra is a combination of polyester and polyurethane.  Both plastics.  Cordura is a combination of nylon and other materials.  Nylon is a plastic.

You said you have Ortlieb panniers.  What do you think they are made of?  Plastic.  Here are a few quotes about the materials of Ortlieb panniers from Adventure Cycling.  "these panniers are made highly visible using a PU (polyurethane) laminated Cordura with interwoven reflective yarn" and "PVC coated polyester fabric" and "constructed from a waterproof polyester fabric".  I do not think its possible to get any more plastic into a pannier than Ortlieb does.

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: June 17, 2016, 04:26:06 pm »
It is not my damp shorts that I worry about.

You're worrying about the wrong thing.  Very common.  Most people worry about the wrong thing on almost everything.  You ride in the rain a few times a year for a few hours.  Saddle gets very wet.  For a few hours.  EVERY time you ride, your shorts get sweaty.  The sweat soaks into the chamois.  Your chamois sits on the saddle.  You rub the chamois into the leather saddle on every pedal stroke.  A few hours of rain compared to hundreds or thousands of hours of sweat.  Its all water either way.  Sweat puts more water into the saddle than rain ever can.

Another example.  I have various shorts and t-shirts.  All of them get soaked with sweat almost every day in the summer.  Due to sweat.  I rarely ever get rained on.  Yet I wear these shorts and t-shirts outside.  If moisture harmed these clothes, where should I worry?  Rare rain or daily sweat?

Another example.  Rain.  You mentioned rain.  But you were not too concerned about the rain falling from the sky.  You were concerned with the rain thrown up by the wheels.  As most people know, rain gets you wet after it falls out of the sky.  The initial fall does not really affect you.  Its all the bouncing around after it hits the ground that gets you soaked.  Some folks rant and rave about rain jackets.  But jackets don't do much to protect you from all the water on the ground.  And I use a saddle bag so no rain can get from the rear tire to the under side of my saddle.  Most folks I see riding have saddle bags.  They mount below the saddle and behind the seatpost.  So your concern with rooster tails is almost nonsense.  The rooster tail hits the saddle bag and never ever hits the under side of the saddle.

General Discussion / Re: Is this considered bikepacking?
« on: June 16, 2016, 04:12:02 pm »
Actually I think that's a subset of Bike Touring.  I'd call it "Credit Card Touring" since you aren't carrying a tent, sleeping gear or cooking gear.

Hmmm.  About 25 years ago when I did that in Europe I don't think I even had a credit card.  Paid cash for everything.  Was I "Cash Touring"?  And the real tourists who camp and cook, are they not allowed to use cash or credit cards at stores when buying supplies?  Do they have to barter for goods?

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: June 15, 2016, 11:31:03 pm »
You're not supposed to oil it at all. I endorse your idea to try a new B-17. Don't use anything except Proofide on it. Don't let it get too wet,

Proofide is oil.  It has emulsions and solids and waxes added to it to make it solid.  But its oil.  Thick oil.  I like Neatsfoot oil on Brooks saddles.  Or any oil designed for leather shoes.  As for letting it get too wet.  When you ride, you sweat.  The sweat builds up in the chamois.  The chamois rests on the saddle.  So you are soaking the saddle every time you ride.  And when pedaling you abrade the saddle and rub the wet shorts into the saddle.  You probably soak the saddle more on a long ride than you do leaving it out in the rain.

General Discussion / Re: Is this considered bikepacking?
« on: June 15, 2016, 11:18:13 pm »
When I did that I considered it bike touring.  But my touring was a bit different.  I went from hostel to hostel to inn to inn to hostel to inn to inn to inn, etc.  Also thrown in were stays at family, friends, and strangers I met on the road.  A great great great way to tour Europe.  LOT more costly to do inn to inn to inn to inn touring in the US.  Europe has a lot cheaper accomodations.  This was a long time ago.  Doubt the word bikepacking had been invented back then.  Bikepacking sounds like riding a bike with a big hiking backpack on your back.  Not very comfortable.

General Discussion / Re: Pannier Discussion
« on: June 15, 2016, 03:33:33 pm »
I'm with staehpj1 when he says this.
"but the stiffeners are usually not too hard to replace and there is no reason you couldn't use aluminum if you prefer it."

I looked at my Nashbar panniers.  They have a sheet of plastic on the inside.  About 10"x12".  And a thin strip on the outside.  All held together with 7 bolts through the fabric and plastic.  You could easily replace this plastic with aluminum if you wanted.  Or plastic.  Maybe drill holes in the aluminum to reduce weight!  I am pretty sure you can buy sheets of plastic or aluminum.  Cut them to size and bolt them in place.  Not a lot of precision or effort is required.  Looking at the outside strip of plastic used to keep the bungee cord close to the pannier, I might have to replace that piece in the future.  It sees more wear than the rest of the pannier.  But it would be real easy to bolt on a new plastic strip.  Or aluminum if I wanted to go wild and crazy.  Small strip so it would only add an ounce of weight.

General Discussion / Re: Pannier Discussion
« on: June 14, 2016, 12:20:25 am »
Hmmm.  Aluminum is probably stronger than regular plastic.  The kind of plastic used in soda bottles.  But it is not as strong as the high tech carbon plastic used in bicycle frames now days.  Might find someone to use this carbon fiber to make panniers for you.  Stronger than aluminum.  Aluminum is light, sort of.  Less dense than steel.  But aluminum is actually very heavy compared to almost all plastics.  So its heavy for panniers.  I have some 25 year old Nashbar panniers made with plastic on the inside.  Used them last weekend.  25 years seems OK to me.  And they still work fine.  Could go another 25 years maybe.  I guess 25 to 50 years is not long enough for you?  You want to pass them down to your great great grand children?

staehpj1's comment about communicating made me smile.  Long, long, long ago, when the dinosaurs roamed the earth, and the ice age was happening, and all the volcanoes were exploding, and the caveman hunted the wooly mammoths, I rode around Europe for a whole summer.  I called home three or four times during the summer.  Every few weeks or so.  Had to use those fancy gizmos called public pay phones.  Wild and crazy times back then.  Cowboys and Indians riding around shooting and bow and arrowing each other.  Computers had been invented.  So we were a year or two after the big bang starting the whole dang universe.  I used WordPerfect to write my resume.  Don't think email was invented yet.  Few years before AOL was big stuff.  I guess I am extra lucky I am still alive and returned from Europe upright.  I am going to start building my bomb shelter in my basement now.  Maybe I can crush up some Litespeed frames to get titanium.  And go to the grocery store to stock up on food.

Gear Talk / Re: One Bike to Do It All
« on: May 31, 2016, 02:52:32 pm »
And can run a wide tire -  unlike most touring and cross bikes.

Hmmmm.  My touring and cyclocross bike can fit 38mm tires just fine.  I use 35 or 38 on them.  What is the purpose of a wider tire than that?  Snow, sand and mud benefit from a 2 inch or wider tire.  But other than those very soft and porous surfaces, width is not a benefit once you get past a certain point.  35-38mm is roughly the point where wider is better no longer makes sense unless you are talking about snow, sand, mud.

General Discussion / Re: How to figure average miles per day
« on: May 23, 2016, 08:45:12 pm »
I would guess most people give a number for miles ridden on riding days.  Exclude rest days, non riding days.  Long ago I rode around Europe for about 100 days.  Mid-end May to end August.  Total miles were low 4000s.  So I only averaged about 40 miles per day.  But in that whole trip there was only one day I recall riding less than 40 miles.  I left Pisa, Italy and rode about 25 miles to the next town north.  I remember thinking it was a wasted day because I rode so short.  I remember every riding day as being 60-70 miles or so.  Plenty of enjoyable non riding days on that trip.  When describing that trip to people I would say May to August.  Memorial Day to Labor Day roughly.  If someone inquired more and wanted to know how far I rode, I'd say 4000 miles or so.  If they wanted to do the math after that, let them.

Gear Talk / Re: Brooks saddle and bike shorts
« on: May 20, 2016, 05:02:11 pm »
Brand new Brooks saddles are slick and shiny.  New leather.  With use, sweat, the leather softens and get a bit more porous, rough.  You can speed this up by soaking the saddle in Neatsfoot oil.  The oil makes the leather more porous and rough.  I suppose to speed up the roughening part you could maybe even use light sandpaper on the saddle leather.  Just rough it up.  Not gouge it.  Take the sheen off.  Do in five minutes what it would take 1,000 miles of rubbing from your shorts.  The roughness would help you stick a bit better.  Look at the underside of your saddle.  It is rough.  Top is smooth and shiny.  Brooks puts the smooth shine on the saddle.  Its rough like the bottom when it comes off the cow.  Try to make the top a bit more like the underside of the saddle.  But use, oil, sweat will soften and roughen the saddle up.

General Discussion / Re: Demands on energy
« on: May 16, 2016, 04:31:18 pm »
Bicycling is usually a constant energy endeavor.  Racing bicycles can be a constant energy and sudden peak energy activity.  But loaded touring is almost always constant energy expended.  You ride along at a medium pace constantly working at your aerobic level.  Your breathing can keep up with your exertion level.  And your body can produce enough glucose to sustain this activity level.  To fuel your body you need to eat a lot a few hours before you start and keep eating during the activity too.  It takes awhile for your body to process food and turn it into glucose your cells can use to produce activity.  Supper more or less replenishes any excess you used during the day.  Fat that your body slowly converts from fat back into glucose to burn now.  So if you eat a big supper to stock up the tank, eat breakfast to get plenty of fuel for the start, eat lunch to keep going during the afternoon, and eat supper to replenish, you will be fine.  And eat some snacks during the day too.  Your fancy drinks you talk about and Coke and Hostess fruit pies are good if you over exert yourself by climbing a mountain, or sprinting for a few miles.  They are quickly and easily digested by the body and provide almost immediate energy to be burned now.  But they are gone pretty quickly too.  So if you eat your energy drinks for breakfast, or Coke and fruit pies, don't expect them to help much when you climb a mountain at the end of the day.  You need a healthy lunch and stored energy to get you up the mountain at the end of the day.  Or a bunch of your energy drinks and Coke and fruit pies at the bottom of the climb.

Despite what the diet commercials and energy drink marketing departments convince people.  The vast majority of people are stupid and gullible.  Eating and how the body work are pretty simple.  You consume fat, protein, carbohydrate.  Your body processes this at different speeds depending on whether its fat, carb, protein.  You use this glucose to fuel your activities.  Your stores the excess.  Or converts stored glucose, fat, to glucose for immediate use now.  Its pretty simple despite all the BS you hear and believe.

General Discussion / Re: Newbie ISO perfect touring bike
« on: May 12, 2016, 01:02:45 pm »

If the above Fuji Touring bike is the one you are considering, then it looks pretty darn good for loaded touring in mountains.  Deore crank which can fit a 22 tooth inner chainring.  Nashbar is selling one for $16.99.  Easy to change.  Bike comes with 11-34 nine speed cassette.  A low of 22x34 should allow you to climb almost any hill on earth with ease.  Rest of the bike looks fine.  Fairly standard basic touring bike specs.  Wheels are 36 hole with Deore hubs.  Shimano makes fine hubs.  MSRP of $770.  Performance Bike in the US is selling it for $729.  So price wise this bike is very good.  If you NEED a heavy duty loaded touring bike, this Fuji is a good choice.

Now if the question is whether you NEED a heavy duty loaded touring bike, that is a whole different question than whether the Fuji Touring is a good touring bike.

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