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Messages - RussSeaton

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Routes / Re: Solo ride from the Bronx to Boston
« on: September 22, 2015, 10:38:48 am »
All NJ state parks are $25 for non-residents.

Even for cyclists setting up a tent for the night?  Wow.  I realize every motel in the northeast is $175 minimum.  But it still seems exorbitant.

Classifieds / Re: FS: '06 Cannodale T2000 $600
« on: September 21, 2015, 01:59:10 pm »
It would be helpful to put the size of the bike in your posting.  The picture does allow you to guess the approximate size.  But most folks prefer to know the actual size of the bike.  Makes things a little easier.

General Discussion / Re: How much is this bike worth?
« on: September 14, 2015, 12:20:16 pm »
I've never heard of this custom frame maker.  Maybe he is more famous around his area.

Says he was with Fat City back in the day. Independent Fabrication. was started by some former Fat City people.

Independent Fabrication and Fat City are well known.  So this bike company may have some history.  But Independent says they make a custom steel touring frame and fork today for $2300.  Lower price than I would have guessed.  $2300 or so for the frame and fork may be the correct retail price for this bike.  Igleheart website shows a custom frame price of $2200 and a fork price of about $500.  Not too bad.  More than Independent, but...  I think the person trying to sell this bike should use these full retail prices as a good source of information.  You are right about the Igleheart decals looking just like Independent Fabrication decals.

General Discussion / Re: How much is this bike worth?
« on: September 12, 2015, 07:00:27 pm »
Its worth what someone will pay for it.  $9000 is probably 100+% retail price, plus a little extra added on just because.  I've never heard of this custom frame maker.  Maybe he is more famous around his area.  Most custom frames and forks in steel are around $2000-3000 or so.  Give or take a few hundred either way.  Gunnar is Waterford's TIG welded steel frames.  Their custom tour frame is $1400 plus $375 for a fork.  So $1800 for a custom made TIG welded steel touring frame.  Just like the one you are selling.  Except the paint.  I have a friend with a Gunnar and he is happy with it.  Real famous builders can charge extra for reputation.  Not sure this maker has any reputation to charge extra for.

Custom frames are built for the buyer.  Not sure on this one.  Are you selling a bike already built for you or someone else?  Its not custom for a buyer then.  Or are you selling the "right" to have a custom frame built for the eventual buyer?  Your post says "Touring Bike for Woman 5’1”-5’6”.  A bike for a woman 5'1" will not fit a woman 5'6".  And vice versa.  Are you selling a frame already built for a woman about 5'3" and therefore will also be good enough for a woman 5'1" or 5'6".  Who needs a custom frame to actually fit right.  5'1" or 5'6" what is the difference.

I suppose you can find what this builder charges to make his frame and fork.  But you can also find other custom frame builders who will charge less.  Is this builder's reputation worth the extra?  I suspect the final custom frame and fork will be the same from about every builder.  All will be good enough to be happy with.  But factory built frames are also good enough too.  Custom is only worth it if you want the reputation of the builder, or NEED a custom size no factory makes.  A cheap Surly frame made in Taiwan or China will function just as well as a custom frame.

All the other parts you can find the retail price.  Then try to get 50-75% for them.  Maybe.  Looks like the light is Schmidt.  Assume generator hub is too.  They are costly.  But again, 50-75% of retail, maybe.  All the parts are new.  But they really are not new because you are not the factory, company selling them new.  So you cannot get new prices for them.  I can find every part you are selling and pay 100% for them.  Or get them on sale for about 90%.  With warranty.  Maybe you can get 75% if lucky.  No warranty.

The fishing rod and case is somewhat humorous.  Maybe there is a biker who wants to carry a fishing rod on his bike.  Good luck finding him.

As for this bike being Travel Oregon and having a custom paint job.  Whatever.  Collectible?  Whatever.

Routes / Re: which route in usa
« on: September 08, 2015, 03:52:50 pm »
"My big objection is the middle bit which appears to be 1200 miles of pretty flat , straight roads."

Believe it or not, the middle of the US is not that flat.  And the secondary roads are not that straight.  The middle of the US was created by glaciers a long time ago.  They came down from the north and left lots of really fertile ground behind.  The ice sort of flattened things out when it pushed and receded.  But except for a few patches here and there throughout the thousands and thousands of square miles of ground, its not very flat.  You might not need to use your inner chainring to get up any hills, but you will have to shift both derailleurs frequently.  And you will have plenty of turns during a day of riding.  Nothing is very straight.  As for dull?  I've never felt boredom while riding a bike.  Not even commuting to and from work in the dark.  Please tell us how this "dull" occurs.

Of your two suggested routes, I would opt for the second.  I've seen quite a bit of the US via a car.  And a little bit on a bike.  Your second option has a diverse array of geography and hits quite a few of the grand scenic sites in the US.

I am familiar with diabetes and bicycling for a summer.  But 23 years ago I used regular and levemir or NPH, not a pump.  And syringes and a meter.  Based on the size of the CGM inserts and pump cannulas and connections, you will need to figure out a way to have a month or so of supplies shipped to you at various locations.  Probably overnight shipping and you will need to spend 2 or 3 days in one location.  And have a knowledgeable contact at home.  And figure out a way to have prescriptions filled while you are away from home and not there in person.  Not sure if you can have other people get your prescriptions or not.  Carrying the insulin is not a concern.  It can get warm and not suffer.  And inside a dark pannier, it will be cooler than the outside air.  Even if you happen to ride in 100 degree sunny days.  You could carry an entire summer's worth if you chose or have it shipped to you.  Due to the complexities of getting supplies and riding with a pump and CGM attached, you might consider discussing with your doctor changing for the trip to regular and levemir administered by syringe.  Also abandon the CGM for the summer.  Go back to the pump and CGM after the ride.  Even going for multi day rides where one pump canula change is required involves extra supplies and space and trouble so to speak.  Using a syringe simplifies things considerably.  The blood meter has no problems.  Its small and the batteries last almost forever.  Strips are small and you can carry large numbers easily or have shipped.

Gear Talk / Re: 9 speed or 10 speed for my new bike build up?
« on: August 13, 2015, 12:52:35 pm »
is there a way to use drop bars and brifters with a full modern group to get to 20 gear inches or below?

Nashbar and Performance Bike have all the parts.  Both stores sell Shimano STI shifters for triples in the 105 and Ultegra models.  Both stores have long cage rear derailleurs in road models and mountain models.  The mountain models are available in 9 speed too.  If what was stated before about road STI not working with newer 10 speed Shimano mountain rear derailleurs.  The road long cage rear derailleurs are stated to only go to 32 teeth.  But I suspect they would also shift a 34 tooth cog just fine.  Triple front derailleurs in road and mountain and 9 or 10 speed.  Cassettes in 9 or 10 speed in 11-32, 11-34, and 11-36.  Chains too.  Triple or double cranksets in mountain with a low inner ring of 22 teeth.  A 22 inner chainring and a rear cog of 32 or 34 or 36 will get you a low gear of 19, 18, 17 gear inches with 700C tires.  It is very, very simple and easy to get a low gear less than 20 gear inches with 9 or 10 speed and using Shimano STI shifters.  But new 9 speed shifters are getting rarer.  Shimano still makes road triple cranksets that use a 74mm bcd inner chainring, so you could easily get a 24 tooth inner chainring on a road triple crankset.  If using a mountain crankset bothered you.  A 24x32, 24x34, 24x36 low gear will get you to 20 gear inches or lower.

Gear Talk / Re: 9 speed or 10 speed for my new bike build up?
« on: August 11, 2015, 02:25:41 pm »
Russ, what's the crank on this bike?  How small is your little ring?

The crank arms are 1991 Shimano Deore DX.  Square taper bottom bracket of whatever length gets the arms closest to the frame.  Crank was originally for a 7 speed system.  It now has TA 44-33 chainrings in the outer and middle positions.  Inner chainring is an Avid adaptor thing I think.  It takes the place of the spacers for the inner chainring bolts and allows you to mount a 20 tooth 58mm bcd chainring.  Has five bolt holes and bolts that go into the 74mm bcd holes on the crank.  Then has another five holes at 58mm bcd to mount the 20 tooth chainring.  I think Avid made it a number of years ago.  Now I think all triple cranks come with the inner chainring spacers molded into the crank itself, so no separate spacers and no way to mount this adaptor.  A 44-33-20 triple crankset with a 10 speed 11-32 cassette provides perfect gearing for all terrain.  Almost all hills can be climbed with the 33 middle ring and the inner ring is only used for real mountains.

Gear Talk / Re: 9 speed or 10 speed for my new bike build up?
« on: August 11, 2015, 11:49:54 am »
The only issue I can see using 10 speed would be mixing road indexed shifters with mtb 10 speed cassettes.
I would give some thought about the braking you will want to use too.

As I mentioned, I have a Shimano STI shifter 10 speed touring bike.  Shimano 105 triple STI shifters.  SRAM 10 speed 11-32 cassette, assume its one of their mountain bike models.  Shimano Deore mountain bike long rear derailleur, fairly new, 9 or 10 speed model.  Avid Shorty cantilever brakes.  Shimano 10 speed chain.  Shimano Tiagra triple front derailleur, fairly new.  This combination of parts shifts and brakes perfectly.

Gear Talk / Re: 9 speed or 10 speed for my new bike build up?
« on: August 10, 2015, 03:57:00 pm »
My most recent touring bike is 10 speed Shimano STI.  Old one was 7 speed Shimano bar-end shifter.  New one works perfectly all the time.  I also have a couple other Shimano 10 speed STI bikes and a few 9 speed and 10 speed Campagnolo Ergo bikes.  They all work pretty close to perfect too.  9 speed has zero advantages over 10 speed.  They all work perfectly and last the exact same time.

Not sure, but 9 or 10 speed may be easier to find in stores or online, or not.  Actually, 10 speed shifters are easier to find than 9 speed shifters.  Finding 9 speed STI or bar-end shifters may be difficult.  Only 9 speed road shifters Nashbar has are their own brand STI style shifters.  Nashbar has 10 speed bar-end and/or STI from Shimano, SRAM, and their own brand.  As 11 speed has become the new normal, its getting harder and harder to find the older stuff like 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 speed.  10 speed is still current.

Seems a bit odd to me to intentionally build a new bike with out of date components.  I'm sure there are some people who will argue that 5 speed friction shifting bikes with 120mm spaced rear triangles are the most reliable.  Why aren't you building a touring bike like that?  If you were building a new house, would you NOT put a garbage disposer and NOT put a dishwasher in it?  It would be more reliable without these electrical contraptions.

Gear Talk / Re: A folding bike for touring?
« on: July 22, 2015, 04:20:17 pm »
I would classify folding bikes into two categories.

The small wheel folding bikes such as the Bike Friday and Dahon.  These have 20 inch or smaller wheels, long seatposts and stems, and fold in half into a fairly small package.  Assume they are very quick to fold and transport.  Seem ideal for trips using several methods of transportation such as buses, planes, cars.  These are sort of easy to transport.  Might make good commuting bikes in large cities where part of the commute is bus and bike.  Bike to the bus stop, ride the bus with the bike folded inside, then ride bike to work.  Do it twice a day.

The other category of folding bikes are the ones that come apart such as the Ritchey BreakAway and Co-Motion Americano with couplers.  These are 700C wheels and the frame divides into two pieces.  They do not pack as small as the above folding bikes.  And the packing takes longer.  Not something you would do once or twice a day.  Or even once or twice a week.  But you have a normal looking bike when assembled.  Seem ideal for someone who flies to a 1-2 month tour couple times a year.  Should be cheaper to fly your bike.

My low gearing 26x26 is fine on everything I ride here at home. (Live in the Sierra Nevada Foothills)  I took my bike in this morning to my bike store.  Mechanic said he will swap my 11/26 cassette with a 11/34 for $34 plus a bit for installing

While you are getting your rear cassette replaced, have the mechanic look at changing the inner chainring on the crankset.  There is no reason to have an inner chainring that is bigger than the absolute minimum.

Gear Talk / Re: Gearing for Touring Bike
« on: July 12, 2015, 07:26:35 pm »
No the OP could be the owner of Surly LHT or a Co-Motion Pangea, they both come in 26".  As for gearing, we found that a 38 front and 17 rear seem to work just perfect giving you plenty of range for flats and the most demanding climbs.  :)  8)  :o

There have probably been 10 million more 26 inch mountain bikes sold than Surly or Co-Motion bikes sold.  Kind of implies the person is using a 26" mountain bike for touring.

You recommend a 38 tooth front chainring and a 17 tooth rear cog for climbing mountains on a touring bike.  Professional Tour de France riders use easier gears than that for climbing mountains.  And they don't carry panniers and gear on their bikes.  38x17 low gear.  Sure.

I am interested in doing the TransAmerica Route in 2016.  I have a Trek FX 7.5 with 48/36/26 and 11/26 gearing - I think that should get me by ok.  I have a rear rack and small panniers large enough for 20 lbs.

It sounds like you already have most of the gear necessary for a loaded tour.  The bike should work fine.  Change the inner chainring to a smaller one and maybe put a larger cassette on the rear wheel.  Easy to do.  That will get you low enough gearing for any mountain or hill, loaded or unloaded.  I don't recommend it, but you can use just a rear rack and rear panniers.  You already have them.  You could also figure out a way to attach a front rack to your bike if you want front panniers too.  Easy.  Cheap Nashbar panniers work just fine.  You do not have to spend much money on racks or panniers, or anything else.  Other than some camping stuff, you already own everything you need for a loaded tour.

Regarding motel costs.  They are unbelievably expensive in the USA.  Everywhere they are expensive.  I seriously doubt you could find any room for less than $50 anywhere in the USA.  Once a year I ride in rural Iowa and stay at motels for a couple nights.  $60-70 is what they cost.  One might assume, incorrectly, that a rural town in farmland in the middle of the week would be somewhat cheap.  HaHaHa.  All motels everywhere in the USA are expensive at all times.

Gear Talk / Re: Gearing for Touring Bike
« on: July 07, 2015, 05:17:13 pm »
I have 26" wheels, 26x32 is my lowest gear. Would it be best to go with a 22" in the front?

26" wheels kind of implies you are using a mountain bike for touring.  Fine.  If you have a triple crankset and 26 teeth is the inner chainring, then that implies a mountain bike crankset too.  Mountain bikes come with triple cranks that use 64mm bolt circle diameter inner chainrings that sometimes use 28 or 26 or 24 or 22 tooth inner chainrings.  Your easiest way to get lower gears is to replace the 26 tooth inner chainring with a 22 tooth inner chainring.  Assume its 64mm bolt circle diameter.  A low gear of 22x32 should be low enough for about any climbing.  And it should be pretty easy to replace the inner chainring.  And your middle and outer rings should stay the same and these are the ones you use 99% of the time.  The inner chainring is rarely ever used so changing it is fine.

This is a 22 tooth inner chainring with 64mm bcd.  Should fit your crankset.  If you have any doubts, then take the bike to a bike shop and have them change the chainring.  Should take a 22 tooth.

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