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Messages - RussSeaton

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1
Gear Talk / Re: Best foot wear for touring?
« on: July 22, 2014, 10:02:40 pm »
Cycling shoes have been some kind of plastic for about a decade or two now.  Wet cycling shoes is not really an issue.  If you wear socks, the socks will get wet from sweat or rain.  But plastic shoes getting wet is not a problem.

2
General Discussion / Re: Touring on carbon
« on: July 21, 2014, 11:22:28 am »
It is a bit odd to revive such an old thread for not reason.  Oh well.  All bicycle frame materials will break.  Racing bikes probably the most often because weight is an important criteria for them and they use the thinnest tubes possible.  Thus less strength.  Its very easy to make a very fragile steel frameset.  Just use very thin and lightweight tubes!  But most companies use heavier and stronger steel tubes because they do not want the reputation of making bikes that break.  Again easy to do.  I suspect touring bikes use steel because it is probably the cheapest material to make a bike from.  Steel foundries and fabricators are very common.  Suspect its easy and cheap to roll a sheet of metal into a circle and weld it into a tube.  Cheapness is why companies do things a certain way.  Steel is cheap!  Whether its the best touring frame material?  Who knows.  You could make a stronger and superior frame out of titanium maybe.  But it would be costly so its not done.  No one uses titanium for touring bikes because of cost.  Making a touring frame from carbon would also be costly probably.  So its not done.  Cheapness is the reason for many many things.  Steel is cheap to make into bike frames.  Long ago all bikes were made from steel because it was the only material.  1970s aluminum started to be used.  Carbon in the 1980s.  Titanium about 80s too.  Steel is also cheap because its an old way of making frames.  Its been around a long time.  Working with aluminum, carbon, titanium is newer and less known.  So more expensive.

3
Routes / Re: Bicycle Tour
« on: July 01, 2014, 04:40:08 pm »
Go to the page below and click on the following routes:
Lewis & Clark
Northern Tier
Transamerica Trail
Pacific Coast

http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes-and-maps/adventure-cycling-route-network/interactive-network-map/

The Transamerica and Lewis&Clark routes both go through Missoula.  Missoula is the home of Adventure Cycling.  The Northern Tier route is about 150 miles north of Missoula.  I am sure the people at Adventure Cycling could tell you which roads to take to get up to the Northern Tier route.  The Pacific Coast route goes down the coast.  Getting from Provo Utah you will have to ride east to meet up with the Transamerica route.  Or go north to Missoula Montana.  Couple hundred miles.  State maps should work fine.  Lewis&Clark, Transamerica, Northern Tier all go over to the Portland or Seattle area.  Meeting up with the Pacific Coast route.  Adventure Cycling sells maps for all of the mentioned routes.

4
Routes / Re: East to West or West to East
« on: June 28, 2014, 03:16:46 pm »
I live in the middle of the country.  Anyone and everyone who rides a bike will tell you the wind comes out of the West during the summer.  Blows to the east.  There is no arguing this fact.  In the summer the wind will also come out of the South and Southwest.  In the winter the wind comes out of the West and North.  Maybe more North than West in the winter.  But summer, wind comes out of the West and South.  This is not 100%.  Occasionally the wind comes out of the East too.  When its going to rain, the storms come from the East.  But it does not rain every single day, so the wind usually comes out of the West.

Another reason to ride west to east is the setting sun.  Sun sets in the west.  So riding to the east you will have the sun above or behind you all day long.  Cars coming up behind you cannot be blinded by the sun if the sun is above or behind you.  Safety.  I do not start riding at daybreak so would never have the sun in my eyes as I am riding east.  I start several hours after daybreak so the sun is well up in the sky.  I will be riding to the east in the late afternoon as the sun begins setting in the west.

5
Gear Talk / Re: Best foot wear for touring?
« on: June 21, 2014, 05:47:47 pm »
From 8AM until about 4PM, use bicycle sandals.  Not mountain bike shoes, sandals.  Shimano and Lake make bike sandals.  You may want to carry along a pair of sneakers for off the bike time in the evening or days you do not ride.  It may not be necessary since bike sandals are fine for wearing off the bike too.

6
General Discussion / Re: equipment & route
« on: May 21, 2014, 06:13:30 am »
In regards to the sleeping bag.  Consider taking a stocking cap or balaclava to sleep in at night and cover your head.  It will help keep you warm at night.  Take a pair of wool socks too and wear them at night.  As others said, your bag will probably be too warm and hot by the time you get to the Midwest and East.

7
Gear Talk / Re: Touring wheel configuration
« on: May 15, 2014, 09:56:18 am »
For 700C touring wheels you cannot go wrong with fairly standard wheels.  36 holes.  Wide, heavy, strong, tough, durable rims.  Whatever model those happen to be.  Many companies make wide, heavy, strong rims with 36 holes.  Just find them.  Hubs, Shimano.  One of their middle of the road mountain bike models.  Check whether your bike is 130mm or 135mm wide rear dropout.  That kind of determines whether you get mountain (135) or road (130) hubs.  Not the high dollar, expensive, maybe more fragile, light XTR model.  All Shimano hubs are good.  Road or mountain.  Just get a regular priced one.  14/15 stainless spokes with brass nipples.  These wheels will work everywhere.

8
I am taking the approach you want clothes to bicycle in and still look presentable at house showings.  You are not looking for racer jerseys and shorts with your company colors and logo on them.  Look at mountain bike clothes in the various catalogs and websites.  And clothes designed for commuting.  You should be able to find shorts or pants that are black or brown.  And look like cotton casual shorts or pants.  But are made of synthetic fibers.  Use Velcro bands around pant legs to keep them out of the chain.  For shirts go to a store that has outdoor type shirts.  But still look OK.  Appropriate colors.  100% cotton will be nice but will get sweaty.  So maybe look for cotton/polyester blends or all polyester shirts.  Probably find Polo style shirts or long sleeve dress type shirts.  Those would look good and be comfortable for biking around town.  Assume you would only ride on pleasant days.  Drive on rainy or suspect days.

9
Gear Talk / Re: 11-32 vs 11-34
« on: April 22, 2014, 04:24:22 pm »
Different people here have posted different opinions as to whether or not you'd notice the difference between 32 and 34, but if somebody offers to give you either an 11-32 or an 11-34, take the 11-34, just in case.

Yes.  No one who posted about there being no real difference between the 32 or 34 cassette claimed the 34 was not easier.  It is.  A little bit easier.  But the difference in ease is negligible.  Probably never notice the difference if you rode both cassettes back to back.  Not worth spending money to change the cassette unless you just want to spend money.  If you have a free choice, then take the 34 cassette.  Assuming your rear derailleur will fit underneath the 34 cog.  Some derailleur hangers are sized so the derailleur cannot get under a 34 cog.  Just fits under a 32 cog.

The person who posted the question has a 44-32-22 crankset and 11-32 cassette.  Assume 9 speed on his Trek 520.  The 22x32 low gear is 18.2 gear inches.  At 90 rpm he is going 4.9 mph.  With a 22x34 low gear the gear inches are 17.1.  At 90 rpm he is going 4.6 mph.  At 80 rpm he is going 4.3 mph with the 32 cog and 4.1 mph with the 34 cog.  0.2 to 0.3 mph difference.  Can you tell the difference?

10
Gear Talk / Re: 11-32 vs 11-34
« on: April 22, 2014, 12:59:22 am »
So you've gained 1365' in 2.92 miles. You plug that into your handy/dandy incline calculator:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/inclinedeclinegradecalc.html
and you get a incline of 8.8%,(which seems awfully low for that hill)
Now, the math is the math. I'm sure the incline calculator is giving you the right % for the numbers you put in.

1365 feet elevation gain
5280 feet per mile
2.92 miles
2.92 x 5280 = 15,417 feet
1365 / 15417 = 8.85%

As you said, the math is the math.  It works out exactly right.  As for 8.8% seeming low for the hill, well, that is the right percentage.

Whether you have a 32 or 34 big cog on the cassette, it won't make any difference climbing, you won't notice any difference pedaling.

11
Gear Talk / Re: Disc Trucker + Schwalbe Marathon Deluxe.. rim?
« on: April 19, 2014, 08:58:17 pm »
I'll repeat what everyone else has said.  Use the tires that came on the bike.  On my touring bike I have some 35mm wide Specialized tires I think.  They are wide, thick, heavy.  Just what I want on a touring bike.  Not sure I have ever flatted them.  I think 35mm is a great width for a touring bike.  38 or 32 is also good.  Doubt it makes any difference which width you pick.  For flats I do think wide, thick, heavy is the way to go for the least.

I am a fan of Brooks saddles and do advocate getting one.  Not the one with built in springs though.  I have one of those in a box in the basement.  Never used it.  On the many bikes I have a B17, Swift, Team Pro copper, and Team Pro classic.  There are two Team Pro saddles.  One with hand hammered rivets and one with machine stamped rivets.  The machine stamped rivets one is best because the hand hammered rivets eventually stick up and cut your shorts.  The machine stamped rivets are smoothed over so they don't cut your shorts.

As for rim, use what came on the bike.  Heavy, wide rims with lots of spokes are great.  36 spokes is best.  I suppose 32 will work if you have to use it.  But 36 is best.  Heavy rims are best for touring.  For touring you do not want light.  Heavy!

12
Gear Talk / Re: Advice on a Bicycle for Trip to France
« on: April 08, 2014, 11:00:34 pm »
Are any of the touring models you are familiar with sportier than others and would give a better unloaded road experience?

Cannot comment on Bike Friday.  As Pat Lamb mentioned, there is a cost to flying with a bike.  I thought it was around $100 each way, not $400.  But check with the airlines.

As for which touring bike to get, if possible try to find one with STI brake/shift levers.  These are much nicer for around town unloaded riding than barend shifters.  I've had both types of shifters on touring bikes.  The STI levers are more fun to use.  Barend shifters can also wear out and stop functioning, so they are not impervious.  I think the bikes I mentioned all come from the factory with barend shifters.  You would probably need to work with the shop you buy from to change to STI levers.  It would add cost.  If you can buy online and do the mechanic work yourself, it would lower the cost quite a bit.  I've had touring bikes with 7 speed barend shifters and 10 speed STI.  The STI are more fun to ride.  I think all of the touring bikes I mentioned are similar.  Trek 520, Surly Long Haul Trucker, REI Novara Randonnee, BikesDirect.com touring bike all come with barend shifters.  All are steel frames/forks.  All are 9 speed cassette.  I think you could flip a coin with any of those.

13
Gear Talk / Re: Advice on a Bicycle for Trip to France
« on: April 08, 2014, 02:48:28 pm »
No experience with Bike Friday.  Any of the common touring bikes sold in the US will work fine.  Surly Long Haul Trucker, REI Novara Randonnee, Trek 520, and a few others are the common choices.  All work fine.  All work as road bicycles when not carrying bags.  So you can buy these for a tour and then use them to ride the roads around home.  They all work fine on all roads.  Loaded or unloaded.

14
General Discussion / Re: First Multi-Day BikeTour
« on: April 08, 2014, 02:32:15 pm »
You mentioned diabetes.  I am unsure if you have Type 1 or Type 2.  Based on the pancreas cancer, I am assuming Type 1.  Diabetes adds some complexity to bike riding and touring.  But does not prevent it or hinder it much at all.  You will need to keep track of your blood sugars during the ride.  Carry a blood glucose meter with you and use it every hour or two.  Carry food, snacks, candy, etc.  And eat them.

15
Gear Talk / Re: Making wheels stronger with a mixed spoke pattern.
« on: April 04, 2014, 03:38:56 pm »
If you are worried about flange breaking use a large flange hub.

Really?  Large flange and small flange hubs have the spoke the same distance from the outside of the hub.  The metal the spoke head is bearing against is the same in both flanges.  Large flange merely moves the hole closer to the rim.  Large flange does not add more metal for the spoke head to bear against.  Flanges break with radial lacing because the spoke head is bearing against a small bit of aluminum in the hub flange.  This small bit of aluminum is the same in both large and small flange hubs.  All a large flange hub does is make the spokes shorter.

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