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Messages - dkoloko

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1
Gear Talk / Re: How to know tire size
« on: February 16, 2017, 07:45:28 pm »
I was just commenting on canalligators comment vs yours dkoloko - probably didn't come out right.

Anyway, I think I agree with you both.  I'm not going to rotate the tires, planning on replacing them.  And yes, if I was going to rotate to extend their miles I think it makes much more sense if I would have done it along the way.  I have been known (by my wife) to wait to long to rotate my car tires

BTW: thanks all for the help in the original question about figuring out tire size options - much appreciated. I'll probably not try all the sizes to see how big I could get - although that makes sense if I had to know.  Perhaps a practical solution would be to just move up to the next size 35mm for my next set and use them for the next year.


As to agreeing "with you both", it is not going to save you from a crash from having a blowout on front tire that the rear tire is as worn as front.

As to trying tire sizes, that can be frustrating and expensive. Your rims are standard width touring rims. 35mm tires should be in the middle to usable sizes, ranging down to 28mm, and up from 35mm.

2
Gear Talk / Re: Tubeless
« on: February 16, 2017, 04:29:35 pm »
Thanks indyfabz. Do you put sealant in tubeless?

3
Gear Talk / Re: How to know tire size
« on: February 16, 2017, 04:24:21 pm »
I'm guessing that my experiences similar to most others. On my road bike and my hybrid my tires have always worn fairly close to evenly.  On my touring bike riding with loaded panniers I found my rear wheel is much more worn.

 Sorry my math is not that good I'm not sure how to convert 3X and 50%  to each other. :-)

Certainly not my experience. Quote from frequently quoted authority,

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html

What is important is that best tire should be on front. I am flatted front and rear tires, mostly on rear, whether riding loaded or unloaded. On front, at speed, flatting can be, and has been for me, torn shorts and a bloody rear.

4
Gear Talk / Tubeless
« on: February 16, 2017, 12:17:56 pm »
Schwalbe says they are committed to tubeless. How many are now using tubeless tires touring?

Any problem running tubeless with tubes?


5
Gear Talk / Re: How to know tire size
« on: February 16, 2017, 12:15:47 pm »
My Vitorria Randonneur touring tires have 3000miles on them now. I think I would like to start my summer trip with new tires even though I'm sure I could do a rotation and get more out of the ones on thernow.

Rotation: Rear wears 3x front. If you put worn rear on front you risk crashing in blowout.

6
Gear Talk / Re: Trek 520
« on: February 06, 2017, 10:33:31 am »
When I went from a new Fuji touring bike to a Trek 520, my local bike shop, who did not sell me either, said the 520 was better "in every way". Why I would not go that far, I would say, based on my experience, spend the few extra hundred dollars,  buy the Trek.

I've wrenched on my share of bikes over the years and I've examined both bikes pretty closely both online and in person.

Don't get me wrong. I understand why you or the OP might prefer the Trek; it's a famous touring bike. I'm just saying that the Fuji is very comparably spec'd (other than primarily the disc brakes) and costs $600 less.

I thought so too, about equal, by looking. After use, not so much; but, if cost is absolutely critical, the Fuji is a good buy.     

7
Gear Talk / Re: Trek 520
« on: February 05, 2017, 01:23:13 pm »
When I went from a new Fuji touring bike to a Trek 520, my local bike shop, who did not sell me either, said the 520 was better "in every way". Why I would not go that far, I would say, based on my experience, spend the few extra hundred dollars,  buy the Trek.

8
Gear Talk / Re: Trek 520
« on: February 04, 2017, 11:57:35 am »
I have a 2015 Trek 520. Best touring bike I've owned. Not had a LHT; numerous comments of truck like performance (rides best loaded). LHT seems to have a cheaper frame to me. Bar end shifters have saved me; switched to friction mode when indexing failed on tour.

If you like the 520, why hesitate? buy it. As for suggestions to test ride both, lots of luck my area. Lucky for a shop to have one touring bike in stock, much less a selection of makes and sizes.

9
Gear Talk / Re: Lightweight touring bike?
« on: January 08, 2017, 11:11:05 am »
Thanks for the replies.  What do you think about this: https://www.rei.com/product/892482/cannondale-synapse-alloy-5-105-disc-bike-2017 Weight and price are perfect, but I'm not knowledgeable enough on components to know if it is suitable for touring.  Thanks.

This is an aluminum frame with a little carbon that is common for advertised entry level racing bikes. Gearing is lowered to appeal to recreational riders, and price is on low end for this frame and components. Personally, I'd go with a randonneuring bike, touring bike for lightweight touring, more room for wide tires, including room for fenders, etc. It is not too hard for a steel bike to come in at 21 lb.

10
Gear Talk / Re: Camp Stove
« on: January 07, 2017, 10:32:14 am »
You don't need to ride all around town looking for fuel. Coleman Fuel or its equivalent is widely available. What to do about having to buy a gallon? Two solutions worked for me: Carry two fuel bottles. Fill them. Offer to sell other half gallon with the can back to seller for half price. Fill the two bottles. Drop can off at bike shop, gift for next touring cyclist. Leaking has not been a problem for me. Weight of second bottle: same as a filled water bottle.

I have had trouble finding replacement gas canisters when traveling.

If you just boil up, an alcohol stove can do.

11
Routes / Re: Pacific Coast Route
« on: October 19, 2016, 12:52:15 pm »
Add, "The Western Region of Washington is one of the rainiest places in the world.", and "This results in a wet season beginning in October" .

12
Routes / Re: Pacific Coast Route
« on: October 15, 2016, 04:41:10 pm »
Be advised that a number of campgrounds may be closed in Sept and Oct.

13
Gear Talk / Re: Advice for choosing components to reduce gear inches
« on: October 12, 2016, 10:25:35 pm »
Hello everyone,

As a thought which I had considered is choosing an mtb crankset with a road front mech feasible, would I need to chose a mtb crankset which gives a chainline of 45mm, or would I need to use a road hollowtech II BB to force the mtb chainrings to give me a chainline of 45mm? 

Thank you.

David.

I don't understand fixing on chainline of 45mm. With a triple crankset, middle chainwheel should align parallel with frame with middle cog. BB needs to match crank. I wonder if front derailleur is that critical; I have a number of times used a double racing front derailleur with a touring triple crank. Pat Lamb recommends letting a bike shop make the changes. I suspect, given your inexperience, that whatever components you buy, you will be making many adjustments, maybe changes in components, afterwards, to get everything working. Whether you want to hazard this, as a learning experience, is up to you.

14
Gear Talk / Re: Advice for choosing components to reduce gear inches
« on: October 12, 2016, 11:23:11 am »
If you go nutty and try a 36 rear cog, then your derailleur hanger my not be low enough and the rear derailleur will not fit underneath the 36 cog.  So that will not work. 

No trouble for me changing to 36 rear cog. I add that changing components to get below 20 gear inches can be much more challenging than being satisfied with a 20 inch low.

15
Gear Talk / Re: Getting bike and gear to start of tour
« on: September 26, 2016, 06:40:45 pm »

I don't know what happens if a Greyhound staffer flops the box on its side and pile crap on top of it. 


In my experience, it's what they do.

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