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I did about 20 years ago on my Bill Vetter touring frame. It had been professionally re-painted a couple of years before and looked brand new so I had no concerns about rust in the near future. A bubble of paint appeared on the top tube and this is what was below. I'm not certain, but I think the rust started on the surface perhaps caused by sweat dripping from above. It served me well though. One Trans Am and several long trips through the Rockies and France.
More importantly, grease your seatpost and put on full coverage fenders. No more water in frame.The OP didn't find that to be the case
I don't have much experience with other modern headlights but I currently use a Busch & Meuller IXON IQ .+1 on that. I love the B&M IXON IQ. The only light that I like better is a Supernova E3 Pro, which is really an apples and oranges comparison.
I like the Princeton Tec Eos too!
Andy Blance of Thorn bikes in the UK is dead against discs on blade forks, claiming they won't take the torque. Not the spokes or tyres, but the forks! He won't supply them except on tubular forks (very rigid and uncomfortable) or shocks.The materials engineering for disc forks is solid. The Kona Project 2 disc fork (Kona Sutra) is plenty cushy and comfortable. If these were so failure prone, you would hear a lot about it, rather than seeing Kona continue to produce the Sutra and the Project 2. Salsa, Surly, Trek (Portland), and so on... all these manufacturers have comfortable disc forks. This past weekend, I took my Salsa Fargo 2 on a 260 mile fully loaded trip over chip seal, dirt roads, and nasty pavement. Plenty of steep descents with hard braking.
I bought a 58cm LHT last Nov, and loved it all except for the toe overlap.
The disc brakes have taken some getting used to. My initial impression was that they stopped about as fast as my old cantis but made a horrible squeal while doing so. The web is full of conflicting advice about curing disc brake squeal,
My general experience is that a chain is a chain is a chain.
This is an interesting analysis. It sounds like spokes should never ever break, and yet we all have broken them. One of my buddy's does not break spokes, but he does regularly break spoke nipples.According to Schraner, Art of the Bicycle Wheel, the rim or hubshell should fail before the a spoke ever breaks on a properly built wheel. In talking with my favorite wheelbuilders, the anecdata seem to underscore this. Some of their loaded touring wheels go 50,000, 60,000 miles before the rim needs to be replaced because of a worn brake track.
Got any more thoughts on spoke failure modes?