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Messages - waynemyer

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1
Gear Talk / Re: Front Platform Racks
« on: January 05, 2014, 04:11:50 am »
Zombie thread!

For anyone interested, I have the TopIt rack. It's a bit weighty for a front rack but super durable. I also bought the QubeIt bag, which latches into the rack quite beautifully. I can't really suggest the bag for anything other than casual commuters. The rack, however, is gorgeous and adaptable. It's also tougher than nails. If you have braze-ons in the right place, I highly suggest the rack. It you have any doubts about fit, avoid this rack.

2
Gear Talk / Re: Wind noise in ears
« on: January 05, 2014, 03:56:38 am »
I have two pairs of Cat Ears (http://www.cat-ears.com/Cat-Ears-Classic-II.html). I am happy with these. I think there are other products out there that are probably just as good, but these happen to be what I bought to try out.

3
Gear Talk / Re: Mostly road tour with a Fargo or Divide?
« on: January 05, 2014, 03:50:12 am »
I did a bunch of road touring on a Fargo 2 (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M2JBpF89Dfw/T8PrxA_UeTI/AAAAAAAAVfo/XJ2FSreC9e8/s800/IMG_0418.JPG). It was a great bike. I have nothing bad to say about the frame. My foremost complaints is that, in the smallest frame size, it doesn't fit two water bottles; I can carry only one 27oz water bottle. This complaint is easily mitigable. The Fargo carries the Salsa front and rear racks perfectly. The panniers in those pics are loaded with about two cases of wine plus all of my loaded touring gear. The frame handles all of that quite well through descents and hard corners. Fenders are a touch awkward, but not problematic. In descents, I was able to corner so sharply, I dragged both front panniers. Were it not for the panniers, I think there was more cornering angle available.

With a set of Panaracer Pasela tires, you can handle quite a bit of road conditions, including fire roads. Pea gravel is out unless you have a wider tire. I highly suggest the frame.

Bugaboos might be:
handlebars
crankset
seatpost (Thudbuster on the Fargo 2)
brakes (BB7 are great, but now there are TRP hydraulics)
small triangle on the small frames

4
Gear Talk / Re: Which triple crankset will fit my bike?
« on: January 05, 2014, 03:26:07 am »
The easiest solution is to switch to the crankset you want*. If you're currently running a triple, you know that your chainstays can run a triple without any issues. The bottom bracket is determined by your crankset.

*I say this because mental effort and fitting gyrations are enormously expensive to me. Pick out, say, a Sugino triple crank (or some other square taper crank) and its appropriate bottom bracket. Bickety-bam. Pick a Shimano 54, Velo-Orange, or Phil Wood BB. All of them have legendary reliability. You'll even probably come out at a total lower price point, even with a Phil BB.

5
Gear Talk / Re: Winter gloves -- Glacier Gloves
« on: January 05, 2014, 03:15:39 am »
As a scuba diver, I can attest to the effectiveness/ineffectiveness of neoprene. The most effective way neoprene works is to allow a small amount of water to enter, the body warms that water, the glove limits water exchange, and the overall system is very effective in storing heat. If water does not enter the glove (or wetsuit), that region of the body will be cold. If too much water moves in and out, that part will also be cold.

The same glove in 40F temps will be ineffective if dry, but very effective if wet inside with no water exchange. Ideally, a small amount of water enters, the body warms up that water, and everything stays warm.

My most effective cycling mitten is a Pearl Izumi PRO. It is, however, a sensitive mistress. Above 28F, my hands sweat uncomfortably. Down to 18F, my hands are just right. Below that, I need supplementation, e.g.  pogies. YMMV.

6
Gear Talk / Re: Interesting sleeping pad, new design
« on: July 18, 2012, 08:48:51 am »
Neat! Thanks for the link!

7
Gear Talk / Re: Frame Saver or T-9?
« on: July 16, 2012, 12:42:19 pm »
I did about 20 years ago on my Bill Vetter touring frame. It had been professionally re-painted a couple of years before and looked brand new so I had no concerns about rust in the near future. A bubble of paint appeared on the top tube and this is what was below. I'm not certain, but I think the rust started on the surface perhaps caused by sweat dripping from above. It served me well though. One Trans Am and several long trips through the Rockies and France.

So there's one.
More importantly, grease your seatpost and put on full coverage fenders. No more water in frame.
The OP didn't find that to be the case

I read the OP repeatedly. I don't see anything saying that the seatpost has been explicitly greased.

8
General Discussion / Re: Arm, Leg or Bike?
« on: July 16, 2012, 09:24:44 am »
I owned a Sutra. It is a little short in the stays, at least for my huge clodhoppers. Another niggling issue is the conflict between front rack, front brake caliper, and left front pannier. The issues can be overcome, but it is a little fiddly. I love disc brakes, but you really need to be prepared to deal with that on a touring bike. The problem is compounded if you run full fenders. The bike itself is otherwise great.

9
Gear Talk / Re: Frame Saver or T-9?
« on: July 13, 2012, 03:29:15 pm »
Treating modern steel frames is just a talisman and products such as Frame Saver are only necessary to separate cyclists from their dollars. Unless you are regularly immersing your frame or exposing your frame to other catalysts, specifically salt, CrMo frames will form a small amount of surface oxidation and that's it. Seriously, when was the last time you even heard of a steel frame developing more rust than surface scaling?

More importantly, grease your seatpost and put on full coverage fenders. No more water in frame.

10
Gear Talk / Re: Am I on the right track?
« on: July 09, 2012, 08:44:49 am »
It looks like you are in plenty good stead. I would suggest a handlebar bag, but that is just my personal preference/love of the convenience it offers.

If you are just taking day and weekend trips, you will quickly find what does and doesn't work for you.

11
General Discussion / Re: What do you use for sunscreen?
« on: June 29, 2012, 05:36:50 am »
I use nothing for sunscreen (well, melanin), but I will occasionally wear clothing to keep me cooler. As long as air is moving over the body, black is the cooler color because of its greater absorption. White reflects radiant energy, including the energy that the body is emanating. White is great for sitting still, but when moving on a bicycle, white is also reflecting your own radiant energy back into your body.

12
Gear Talk / Re: Any suggestions for headlights that are tour-worthy?
« on: June 22, 2012, 07:40:29 pm »
I don't have much experience with other modern headlights but I currently use a Busch & Meuller IXON IQ .
+1 on that. I love the B&M IXON IQ. The only light that I like better is a Supernova E3 Pro, which is really an apples and oranges comparison.

The beam pattern on the IXON is nearly perfect, the longevity is amazing, the weather resistance is peerless, throw is good to ~40MPH.

I like the Princeton Tec Eos too!

I like these as helmet lights, but the 3AAA is annoying. These are excellent for lighting up cue sheets and road signs, and light-smacking drivers.

13
Gear Talk / Re: Surly Disc Trucker v. LHT
« on: June 01, 2012, 12:44:23 pm »
Andy Blance of Thorn bikes in the UK is dead against discs on blade forks, claiming they won't take the torque. Not the spokes or tyres, but the forks! He won't supply them except on tubular forks (very rigid and uncomfortable) or shocks.
The materials engineering for disc forks is solid. The Kona Project 2 disc fork (Kona Sutra) is plenty cushy and comfortable. If these were so failure prone, you would hear a lot about it, rather than seeing Kona continue to produce the Sutra and the Project 2. Salsa, Surly, Trek (Portland), and so on... all these manufacturers have comfortable disc forks. This past weekend, I took my Salsa Fargo 2 on a 260 mile fully loaded trip over chip seal, dirt roads, and nasty pavement. Plenty of steep descents with hard braking.

Andy Blance is demonstrating (pick one or more): his bias; his ignorance; his inability to source a good fork; his inability to design a proper fork. The issue is taking a non-disc fork leg and slapping a disc mount fork end on it. The leg will snap.

14
Gear Talk / Re: Trek 520 wobble
« on: May 31, 2012, 06:27:57 am »
To add on to the preceding diagnoses: If it occurs at low speeds, a binding headset can be at issue. The headset should turn freely without any fretting ("indexed" headset), stiction, or clunking (too loose). The fretting and clunking should not cause you any speed wobble issues, but the stiction will, especially at low speeds.

Another thing to check is your upper body while pedaling. Is your upper body "quiet" while pedaling? You may be introducing a slight wobble that is compounded by the "resonance" of the loaded bicycle. Wider handlebars can help quiet all that down; the wider bars require a greater input to disrupt the handling of the bicycle.

15
Gear Talk / Re: I need a new disc wheel
« on: May 23, 2012, 06:26:27 pm »
My favorite combo is a White Industries MI5 hub with a Velocity Aerohead Touring Disc rim, 32H, double butted spokes, brass nipples. I am 185 pounds, have carried over 100 pounds of gear without any issue. I abuse these wheels quite badly (jump off curbs, ride down stairs) and have zero problems. I do have the tension about maxed out for the rims.

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