Your tensiometer reading just means the wheel was not built to the proper tension, maximum, when it was built. Does not imply it was right or wrong. I think it was wrong, but others may think otherwise. The fact you had loose spokes so quickly and had to tension it higher kind of supports my idea that it was wrong and not tensioned properly.
I've read some posts from people who build a lot of wheels, and other people who claim those people are very good at it, who prefer somewhat lower tension. And when I had to get a replacement bike from REI on the first day of a planned transcontinental ride, they replaced my wheels with new wheels that were looser than I wanted, but they've lasted well over 15,000 miles with only minor tweaks. So I have experience that says the highest possible tension isn't really required.
That said, I'm with you, Russ, in preferring wheels as tight as possible -- at least to a point. I built one wheel that was very tight (125 kgf, IIRC); the rim was fine, but the Shimano hub cracked after a few months. (Shortly after that the air around me was blue!)
The experience with the PW rear wheel gave me the confidence to build and ride my own wheels, and hang what anybody else says. Peter White is a widely respected wheel builder. The fact that I touched up a wheel he built, and it's continued to work well since that fix -- well, I'm not shy about tuning a wheel to my preferences any more.