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Messages - paddleboy17

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16
Gear Talk / Re: I Found and Purchased My New Bike
« on: February 26, 2014, 12:07:50 am »
Dave I wished I remembered more of my steel processing lectures from college.  They made us Electrical Engineering majors sit through that stuff, and we knew we were never going to use it.

I think I remember some of the details from a project of making new J hooks for my panniers that involved heating the bent hooks up to 400F, followed by an oil quench, and then annealing them at 250F for 20 minutes.  I think British Racing Green baked at 275F, and I think there were colors that baked at over 450F.  So baking a frame at 500F could anneal stuff that was meant to be tempered.  Unfortunately I just don't remember very much about heat treating steel, and that is why I left it as an exercise for the reader.  I  just don't know the effect on a steel bicycle frame.

I do remember that I contacted Reynolds, and they OKed the melting point of the paint I chose on my Reynolds 853 frame.  Some paints need a much higher temp and that is why I avoided them.  I don't remember being told limits.  I will also concede that Reynolds 853 is more problematic than whatever steel is in the 970 frame.

Bottom line is that I still feel that it may be more complicated than what you have stated, but I am not able to defend my position.  There used to be a guy on this forum that seemed to know a lot about chromoly steel, but I have seen a post from him in at least a year.

I still vote for leaving this as an exercise for the reader. ;D

17
Gear Talk / Re: I Found and Purchased My New Bike
« on: February 24, 2014, 10:23:12 pm »
I sent a frame out for power coating and was pleased with the results.  I think it cost me $90, and the painter admitted to having a soft sport for bikes and charging less for them.  The only detail you should be aware of is the temp you can bake your frame without altering its metalurgical properties.  I chose British Racing Green due to its low melting temperature.

As for swapping parts around and upgrading your bike, many of us do it.  Once you become a competent mechanic, you will do all sorts of swaps that you could never afford to have a bike store do.

18
General Discussion / Re: Best routes for newbies?
« on: February 24, 2014, 06:28:35 pm »
I am always an advocate of short trips while you master your craft.  I don't think that these would lend themselves to winter riding but they are generally car free:
  • Katy Trail, Missouri
  • Williamette Valley, Oregon
  • Eastern shore of Lake Michigan, Michigan
  • Greater Allegheny Passage, Pennsylvania
  • Erie Canal, New York
All are 5 days or less, with easy replenishment.

19
General Discussion / Re: Road bike for touring??
« on: February 13, 2014, 06:53:18 am »
I said Surly LHT or equivalent.  There are lots of threads devoted to the merits of the different sub $1500 touring bike.  I would start there.

There are also threads devoted to panniers vs trailer.  I have done both and prefer a trailer off road and panniers on road.

Sounds like you need to budget for two bikes, a his and hers combo so to speak.  You also need to research gear.  Be sure to plan some trial trips.

20
General Discussion / Re: Road bike for touring??
« on: February 12, 2014, 10:40:00 pm »
If you can afford a Cf road bike, I am guessing that you can afford to add a Surly Long Haul Trucker or it's equivalent to your fleet.  I don't think you current bike will do what you want unless you are ultra light weight with your gear.  Trailers do work, but they work best with a long wheelbase bike that can take and dampen the loads of the trailer.

I am reminded of the saying, "when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail".


21
Gear Talk / Re: Looking For Cannondale TX1000 Info - Who Has or Had One
« on: January 30, 2014, 02:12:17 pm »
I am confident that you can squeeze in a 130mm hub.  I don't think that the brake bosses are in the right position to hit the 700c rim.

22
Gear Talk / Re: Looking For Cannondale TX1000 Info - Who Has or Had One
« on: January 30, 2014, 01:52:07 pm »
From my point of view, it has to do with maintenance.  The pickings for 27" tires are getting slimmer and slimmer.  Hub choices for 126mm are also slimmer.  I have a similar concern about freewheels. 

I have a bike that is 126 mm dropouts, and I am able to squeeze in a 9 speed wheel, but it is a 700c wheel.

Besides my concerns about maintenance, you are right in that 6 speed and 27" wheels are perfectly functional, but I would be offering less than $500 for the bike.


23
Gear Talk / Re: Looking For Cannondale TX1000 Info - Who Has or Had One
« on: January 30, 2014, 12:49:28 pm »
I had a buddy who has the 2000.  I think it was the same frame as the 1000, only nicer components.  If I remember right this is an aluminum frame with a steel fork.  I think $500 dollars could be an OK price if the bike is in good shape.  I think you should be able to look at the bike and figure out if has been in a crash or otherwise abused.  Make sure that things that rotate, rotate cleanly with out any dry spots.  Make sure that the wheels are true and then round. 

Besides SunTour parts, what else do you know about the bike?  6/7/8/9 speed?  700c or 27" wheels?

If the bike has 6 or 7 speeds, I would pass.  If the bike has 27" wheels, I would pass. 

Otherwise, it might be OK for your first touring bike.  I am a bit of a steel bigot, so I might not take an aluminum bike around the world, but this  bike could be OK for more modest trips.

I would bet that Treks budget frames are not made in the US.  There are only a couple of frame factories, and most of them are in the far east.  I am from Detroit, so I am definitely pro made in the USA.  I would go for whichever frame comes with the stuff that you want on it.  There is not much about building a frame that the other reputable frame builders do not also know.

One other thing that you should be aware of.  Most commercial touring bikes are really light touring bikes.  Most of the people who buy them never throw any gear on them but want the more upright position, and the bike makers know this.  My first touring bike was on joy on dirt roads and wiggled when you put panniers on it.  So whatever you buy, I would test ride it with panniers first as a condition of sale.  Throw gallon jugs of water in the panniers to approximate gear.

24
General Discussion / Re: bike tour spring summer 2014 questions
« on: January 30, 2014, 12:23:28 pm »
Your situation may be a function of what you eat.  My metabolism get pretty skewed after the first day of riding. 

As others have said, listen to your body, and if you are hungry then eat.

I find that if I break camp and then make breakfast, that seems to go better for me.  The other thing I do is to up my protein intake on tours.  That is harder than you think as most camp cuisine is carbohydrate heavy.  So add nuts to your oatmeal, and put lots of meat in your spaghetti. I try to eat lunch in restaurants but I always have peanut butter in my pack.  I thought I read in a book on cycling nutrition that normal people need about 2500 calories a day but cyclist on tour need 5000 calories on tour.  I could have the number off so please don't crucify me.  The point is that touring is hard work, and you might have to eat accordingly.

25
Gear Talk / Re: First Touring Bike
« on: January 23, 2014, 01:18:19 pm »
If the bike does not fit you properly, then it is not worth owning. 

Lets talk about what happens once you put panniers on it.  The bike still fits as good or as bad as it did before.  The handling will be lethargic.  The bike will be slower in general.  If the bike frame was not designed for touring, it may also wiggle or shake (or it may not).

Are you concerned about keep in bike up right when you start or when you are stopped at a light?  I don't really understand your fit concerns, but maybe you could tell us more.  The long wheel base of a touring bike makes the bike pretty stable once it is moving...

Some loose rules on fit.  The bike frame size is chosen based on your stand over, and then the stem (plus steering column spacers) and seat are adjusted to make the bike work for you.  For many people, the frame size based on their stand over, can never be made to work for them because the stem would be insanely too long or too short, and that is why there is a market for custom bicycles.  I generally fit a standard bike, but I have a friend that can only ride a custom bike.

You probably should get hooked up with a good bike store that knows how to fit you for a touring bike.  Finding the right store can be a challenge.  One of our local stores  is known for their fit service, but their focus is on racing, and they don't know much about touring bikes or how to fit one.  I bought two bikes from them, but my touring bike came from somewhere else.  I am in the market for a cross bike, so I will probably go back there.

Where do you live?  Are you in New York?  Someone on this forum might know a good store in your area.

26
General Discussion / Re: Continental divide advice
« on: January 16, 2014, 12:57:26 pm »
I only rode central and southern New Mexico.  I did it on a hard tailed mountain bike, towing a trailer.  As I remember, there was lots of washboarded dirt roads and two track.  Washboard sucks no matter what you do, but I liked having a suspension fork.

27
Gear Talk / Re: Vargo titanium alcohol stove
« on: January 09, 2014, 12:56:19 pm »
I have a Vargo in my collection.

It is very small and light.  It can be difficult to light, and the trick is overfill it and then dribble some fuel on the top prior to lighting.

If all you want to do is boil a liter or less of water then it is a fine choice.  If you are trying to do more than that, the challenge is that you need to wait for it to cool in order to refill and relight.  You can make it work, but there are other stoves that would be less work to use in this capacity.

I am saving my Vargo for my emergency survival kit.

28
Gear Talk / Re: Which triple crankset will fit my bike?
« on: January 09, 2014, 12:39:07 pm »
Thanks for the very useful info Wayne and Dave. I am leaning towards going with MTB cranks at the moment to get the gearing I want. I will probably go the ebay route for some lightly used XTs to keep the cost down. Just have to be sure and get the correct BB. Thanks again,  Jack

XT is sometimes overrated.  I would seriously look at LX (whatever its currently called since I think Shimano rotated names around). 

I thought I read comments telling you to replace the front derailleur.  My experience has been that sometimes you need a mountain front derailleur to go with a mountain crank, and sometimes you can get the existing road derailleur to work (if you lower the road derailleur down the new proper height).  I would spend the effort tweaking your current front derailleur before I would invest in a new derailleur.

29
Gear Talk / Re: Opinions on refurbishing/re-equipping a 20-year old bike
« on: December 11, 2013, 12:25:49 pm »
Shimano LX is the standard for touring, with a few opting for the more expensive XT components. A common upgrade is an XT rear derailleur on an otherwise LX equipped bike.

I would say the using mountain bike components is  a wise choice.  LX is certainly good, but I think Deore and SLX (successor of LX?) are worth looking at too. 

I am intrigued by the new 2x stuff, but I personally need lower gears that a 26/38 would provide.

30
Gear Talk / Re: Trek 520 poor brakes
« on: November 15, 2013, 12:50:02 pm »
.....sounds like the levers are not able to pull enough cable to make the brakes effective. I too would suggest Travel agents
First the bike came with V-brakes (Avid SD5) and matching long pull levers. There are no longer pull levers and a Travel Agent will only make the leverage worse, not better.  Either the OP has the pads set too far from the rims at rest or the brake arm are too flexible or the pads are inferior.

Which brings us back to the condition of the wheel.  I asked earlier if the wheel was true or not.  If the brakes are loosened to accommodate a wheel that wobbles, they won't stop all that well.  DaveB's implied question about the brakes being properly adjusted is fair game too.  Even side pull brakes generally work.  Cantilever or linear pull brakes should be fine for this application.  Yes, a loaded bike takes longer to stop.

And again, there are hydraulic rim brakes for those that want'em.  I checked, SRAM still makes them, looks like ~$600.

Pad are the cheapest change to make.  Dir the OP try that?

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