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Messages - paddleboy17

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General Discussion / Re: cassettes
« on: November 24, 2015, 11:48:47 am »
Don't know why Jamis set the Aurora Elite up like a road bike when the Aurora is geared for touring.

Welcome to the sometimes absurd world of touring bikes.  The mainstay bike companies know that most touring bikes sold will never actually see panniers, and are being purchased for their relaxed fit.  So they routinely do stupid things.  Jamis is no exception.  The alloy chosen for the Aurora is not stiff enough to be a good touring bike.  And as you have noted, the better framed Aurora Elite is not geared low enough. 

General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: November 17, 2015, 01:48:16 pm »
Can you go back to the guy who fit you for your Cannondale and say "Will this LHT work?".

General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: November 17, 2015, 01:07:15 pm »
You really need to find a good bike shop to work with. 

They would have you come in with your current bike, watch you ride it and then extrapolate to the geometry of the LHT.  It is highly unlikely that some else that is  5'-10" has your torso length and leg length.  So I would not draw any conclusions from their experience.

I am a smart guy, but I cannot look at geometry charts for frames and say what will fit who.  I do know people who can, and they are generally people trained to fit custom frames.

Please find a good bike shop with a staffer you trust.

Gear Talk / Re: Looking for a combination road / light touring bike
« on: November 15, 2015, 09:01:43 pm »
I am sticking with you need to sort out the bikes that go with the riding you want to do.  I still think you need multiple bikes, how many is up to you.

Adding a Ti bike to mix is an interesting subject.  For most of us, the weight of the frame is given more importance than it really deserves.  A good steel frame comes in at 4 pounds (maybe 5 pounds for a touring bike), a titanium frame is 3 pounds, and an aluminum frame is 2.5 pounds.  A pro racer might pick up on the weight differences, but I doubt any of us on the forum would tell.  We might pick up on handling differences.  Carbon fiber can be light but I don't think it is durable enough for touring.  Rotating mass is where you get your bang for the buck--moment of inertia is technical term that describes the dynamics of what is going on.

I have a friend with a Ti back road bike,  and he got it because he wanted a livelier ride than he would get from aluminum, and because he is "hard on equipment" and  carbon fiber would not hold up.  We salt our roads in the winter time up here and that may also have been a factor.  His touring bike is a steel CoMotion Americano.

Gear Talk / Re: Looking for a combination road / light touring bike
« on: November 12, 2015, 12:47:58 pm »
I think you have conflicting goals, and not all of them can be met with one bike.

You want a bike that you can go on event rides, and the one that you already have could be fine for that.
You want to do a van supported trip, and again the bike you already have could be fine for that.
Maybe a professional fitting to make the bike more comfortable for you would be a good investment.  It you are all handy, some upgrades from down tube shifters if it has them.

As for over night trips, any light touring bike could work for you.  The fit will be relaxed, but you may or may not like it for other riding.  Some think that a touring bike has a harsh ride when it is not loaded up with some gear.  I think softer tires are are the right answer, but I found rack and fenders a turn off for everyday riding.  I am not sure I understand what an adventure bike is, as there is no consistent marketing hype.

Dirt roads might be better served by a different bike, as I think 700x32 is a better fit than 700x28.  Again rack and fenders would be annoying.  I think a compliant frame would be better than a stiff touring frame.

I currently have 4 bikes in use.  I have a short wheel base road bike that is probably similar to your Cannondale.  I have a heavy touring bike.  I have a mountain bike that I put snow tires on for winter riding.  And I took one of my kids mountain bikes and turned it into a road bike for riding on dirt and gravel roads.  I keep toying with a gravel road bike, but so far most of them do not come in frames small enough to fit me, as I don't fit a 52 CM frame.

You might consider a Shimano 105 mid cage rear derailleur.  It will span a 32 tooth cassette.  There are two versions of the 105 derailleur.  The ones Performance bike carries (RD-5700-SS or RD-5700-GS) may not work, the one Nashbar carries (RD-5701-GS) will work.  I think an RD-5700-SS is good for 28 teeth and an RD-5700-GS is good for 30 teeth. 

10 speed shifting is a bit more ornery than 9 speed.  Mountain bike shifters over shift and the settle into position.  Road shifters go directly into position.  So you might want to stay with a road shifter and a road derailleur.  I upgraded one of my bikes from 8 speed to 10 speed and eventually ended up with a Durace bar con shifter and a 105 rear derailleur.  I am generally pleased with where I ended up, and not so please with the intermediate combinations I tried.

Nashbar is selling the Durace shifters for $50 right now, and you should know that the Durace shifters no longer support non indexed mode.

I replace a set of 9 speed Ultegra brifters with Microshift brifters and they have been OK.  The fit and finish is not the same, but the shifting is more positive.

Just hunt for a compact mountain bike crank.  Any 10 speed triple will do, preferably one that is 22/32/42.

I don't know if an 11 speed crank will work or not, but you can probably get any crank to work since you have bar end shifters.

You may or may not need to replace your front derailleur.  Since you are putting a smaller bolt circle crank on the bike, you will need to move the front derailleur down the seat tube to make it shift properly.  If you cannot get it to work, then get a mountain bike front derailleur designed for a compact crank.

I agree that the gearing choice is stupid, but then building the not Elite Aurora frame out Reynolds 520 is even stupider.

Changing the crank and getting it to work should not be that hard.  You can do it.

There are small frames that meet your standover requirements.  The real question is about your torso length and the top tube length.  The bike manufacturers know that smaller frames are purchased by adolescent males and females of a longer age range.  So a smaller stock frame may work for you.  You just need find a bike dealer that you can trust to properly fit you.  There is only so much magic that can be done with changing stems.

Georgina Terry made her whole career out of female friendly bicycle.  She is semi retired now.  I think she sold her company to Trek, but she has a web site and was selling complete packages based on Waterford frames.  Last time I looked, her pricing was pretty good but it will be at the high end of your range or just outside your range.  You will have to look and see for  yourself.

Trek used to have their WSB (women specific bicycle) line, but I don't know if that is still around anymore.

Seriously, find a good dealer and go from there.

Gear Talk / Re: Back To Bar Cons
« on: August 25, 2015, 12:57:02 pm »
If the bike is that cramped, maybe you should put a longer stem on.  Or do you have a short torso?

General Discussion / Re: Buying Used Question
« on: August 03, 2015, 12:53:11 pm »
Background: I took my trek fx 7.5 in to get a gearing upgrade the suggestion from a local expert re taking it cross country is in addition to new gearing is to replace wheels, (24) spokes, replace fork with a steel fork from trek 7.3, add bar ends. He said by the time you have done the up grads you have payed 1/3 the cost of a new touring bike - or 1/2 to full price of buying a used bike.

I started reading Craig's List last night and see two bikes in my size. A Fuji touring for 400. And a Cannondale T800 for 300.  I'm not going to offer to buy either because I need to learn some things first and I'm not in a rush.
So my buying used question: 1 how do I determine they are not a stollen bikes and 2. How do you determine the condition since I'm not mechanically inclined?

Any suggestions for thinking through this?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The conversion does not sound that bad.   A new wheel set is easy enough to get, and just have a new cassette put on it.  The current FX 7.5 picture shows a tapped fork that should work.  I don't know that you need bar ends.  I would try to make do with the bike that you have. 

Are their other things about the upgrade?

Thanks. Yeah, I think drilling a hole would need the tiniest bit and a hand steadier than mine, but maybe a drill could turn it...  I live a long way from anywhere that might sell something like that, so if I can't get it out, I'll ask a car mechanic :)

Any decent hardware store should be able to sell you an easyout.  They are pretty common.

General Discussion / Re: New BOB trailer owner observations
« on: June 16, 2015, 12:08:57 pm »
That is one heavily loaded Bob trailer...

I have a Bob, but I prefer panniers for on road and a trailer for off road.  But I was never hauling for two.

I did not invest in a kickstand.  I did look for things like benches or building that I could lean the bike an trailer up against, and that worked well enough for me.  I did sometimes detach the trailer when I camped for the night as that did make things less complicated.

General Discussion / Re: Loaded Tour Bike Handling
« on: June 10, 2015, 01:00:16 pm »
While I'm on the subject can anyone explain why touring bikes allies bar-end shifters.

Simple answer is that it's the only way to use modern mountain bike gearing with drop bars.  Shimano used to have the same pull in their mountain and road group derailers.  That meant you could use road shifters (STI) to shift mountain derailers in the rear (with clusters over 27 teeth).  When they went to 10 speed, and now 11, the pull ratio was different between mountain and road.  You can still get by with STI and 9 speed gearing if you can get the parts, but the bigger bike manufacturers are slowly tossing in the towel and going to newer models for parts availability.

Bar End shifters were popular on touring bikes before Shimano introduced a different pull ratio in Dynashift mountain bike groups.  I suspect Bar End shifters were a reaction to down tube shifters.

In Shimano's implementation of the brifter, you end up with a very complicated and non servicable mechanism.  I cannot speak for non Shimano brifter implementations, but I suspect they are also complicated and not servicable.  Shimano brifters can stop shifting due to gunked up lubricants and wear.  A Bar End shifter is a much simplier, and much more reliable mechanism.  As longs as nothing fractures in the shifter, and there are a least a couple of strands of metal in the cable, a Bar End shifter will shift.  Plus you have infinite trim points on the front derailleur and non-indexed shifting should something drift or stretch.

I have 9 speed Ultegra brifters on my Paramount, and one of them recently stopped shifting. I had tried all of the documented tricks for getting my brifters working again, including 20 minutes of flooding it with citrus degreaser followed by water followed by wood alcohol, and then more degreaser.   I thought about going to Bar End shifters, but ended up buying a set of Micro-Shift shifters.  The Micro-Shifts are ok, but not as smooth as the Ultegra's were.  I gave the Ultegra's to a buddy who was going to canabalize them for parts.  He got them working again, by giving them a long soak in an ultrasonic degreaser.  I have a lot of cool stuff but I don't have an ultrasonic degreaser tank.

If you want reliability, get Bar End shifters, as brifters are a crap shoot.

A touring bike does not need the responsiveness of a race bike.  I will take the time it takes to move my hands to shift in exchange for a more reliable mechanism.

Gear Talk / Re: Front Rack Decisions
« on: June 08, 2015, 12:56:25 pm »
I think you can get a way with a cheaper rear rack but not in the front.  Any front rack induce shimmy will make your life miserable. 
You do not have to invest in Tubus racks, but don't get no name bargain racks either.  I think you need at least a front rack rated to 30 pounds (50 would be better) and a rear rack rated to 40 pounds (more is better).

Gear Talk / Re: Trek 520 Disc - Compatible Fenders
« on: June 01, 2015, 12:34:38 pm »
I would make a bracket to allow you to attach the fender to the rack.  You should be able to fabricate something with brackets found in a better hardware store (look in those wonderful 2" thick drawers with obscure fasteners).  A web site catering to touring might have bracket for mounting a rack to a bike that does not have braizons that could also be repurposed.

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