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Messages - RussSeaton

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General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: Today at 04:49:14 pm »
Regarding the flared drop handlebars.  Rivendell sells the Nitto bars mentioned.  Velo-Orange also has a few flared handlebars.  A Google search for "Randonneur" handlebars may also turn up flared bars.

Routes / Re: Can I ride from Cortez CO to Pueblo CO in early April?
« on: November 24, 2015, 04:48:54 pm »
Are your dates set in stone?  April can be a cool to cold and rainy month in the Midwest.  You will be in Colorado, Kansas, Missouri during those months.  Southern parts of those states.  Temps can and usually are in the 40s and 50s in April.  Maybe warmer.  But 40s and 50s are common.  And RAIN.  Rain and 50 degrees.  Riding a bike would not be very enjoyable.

General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: November 22, 2015, 12:48:12 pm »
"Any normal mountain or road crankets and bottom brackets will work in the frame."

When I say normal I imply Shimano cranks and bottom brackets.  The dominant name in bike parts.  All Shimano bottom brackets and cranks use the external cups that thread into the bottom bracket threads.  The cups hold the bearings and the cranks go through the bearings.  Two piece crank with the non drive side tightening everything together.

No press fit cranks or bottom brackets will work with the threaded Surly frame.  Press fit requires the frame to have a space molded into the frame so you can press the bearings directly into the frame, no separate cups involved.  Generally only higher end road/race bikes use this system.  Not Surly.

As for square taper bottom brackets, those have not been made in almost 15 years.  I'm guessing Shimano still makes some for the cheapest parts they sell.  But they are almost rare now days.  If building a bike new, you won't even come across these cranks and bottom brackets.  You would have to search in the attic, inside the trunk, under the newspapers to even find a square taper bottom bracket and crankset.  Its about like talking about freewheels, 5,6, or 7 speed, if someone asked about building a rear wheel and what gearing to use on their bike.  Phil Wood still makes and sells hubs for freewheels.  Not sure who makes the freewheels.

General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: November 21, 2015, 05:09:11 pm »
The bottom bracket is similar to the headset.  Except you thread in the bottom bracket cups instead of pressing the cups in the headtube.  Bearings just slip into the cups once installed.  Your Surly frame will have standard British/ISO threading on the bottom bracket.  The threading is different on both sides.  Here is what Park Tool says about the threading on your Surly frame.
"Most modern bikes use an ISO thread standard for the bottom bracket. The left side thread is a right-hand direction thread, which tightens clockwise and removes counter-clockwise. This standard is also called English or BSC. The right side (drive side) thread is a left-hand thread, which tightens counter-clockwise and remove clockwise."

Tighten the cups by turning towards the rear wheel.  Loosen by turning towards the front wheel.

Any normal mountain or road crankets and bottom brackets will work in the frame.

General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: November 21, 2015, 12:18:08 am »
Looking at the Surly website, it appears your LHT frame takes normal 1 1/8" headsets.  It has a top and bottom cup that is pressed into the headtube.  These cups hold the bearings.  Fork goes up the center of the bearings.  Surly puts a Cane Creek 40 headset on the bikes they sell complete.  You can buy that and be pretty sure it will work.  Or another normal headset.  You can take the cups and frame to a bike shop and they can press the cups into the frame in about 1 minute.  Or you can buy your own headset press and press the cups in.  Or do it cheap and buy a long bolt or threaded rod.  12 inches or so.  Then use this bolt and washers and nuts to press the cups in yourself.  There isn't anything complicated about it.  I have a 2 foot threaded rod about 1 inch diameter.  Has a couple nuts on either end and four big washers about 2 inch diameter.  Works fine on the half dozen or so headset cups I have pressed in over the years.  Normally once you press in the cups, you never take the cups out again.

General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: November 18, 2015, 01:26:57 pm »
You are "lucky", in that both the 54 and 56cm frames can fit you without too extreme of measures.  On the 56 you will look right by everyone who sees you.  If a frame fits you, you will look right on it.  On the 54 you may have to use a longer stem than really ideal.  Maybe a bit more seatpost sticking up.  Maybe the saddle pushed way back further than on the 56 frame.  Maybe extra spacers to get the bars high enough because the 54 frame will have a shorter headtube and the bars will therefore be lower.  If you add all these somewhat easy and normal modifications together, people looking at you on the bike may say "the bike is a little too small".  Not extremely too small, but still too small.  Doing one of these modifications to get the frame to fit, that is OK.  But you may have to do all of them to get the slightly too small frame to fit.

General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: November 17, 2015, 09:05:38 pm »
Yeah, I have had people say I look big on the 54CM.  I was fitted for it and he said it fit nicely, I bought it used so it was what I had to work with.  I have put about 2000 miles on it and it is very comfortable, including a century or two and one back to back.  However I am a normal looking 5'10".  I stood over my cannonade and there is about an inch maybe before it is crammed into my crotch, maybe 1 1/2".

Your current bike was purchased used, so the fact it is not the right frame size is not surprising.  I used to have a 21 inch Trek 520 bike.  It fit me after I put a 12cm Nitto Technomic stem on it, raised to its maximum.  And modified the aluminum rails on my Ideale saddle to slide it backwards an extra inch.  I toured on the bike many thousands of miles.  It fit perfectly after my modifications.  But it was still not the right size bike for me.  I should have been on a 23 inch Trek 520 frame.  You can get many bike sizes to fit you.  And your 54cm Cannondale is not extremely small for you.  So with just a 13 or 14cm stem and raising the seatpost an extra inch or two, it will fit OK.  Professional bike racers often ride frames that are really one size too small for them.  And they use extra long stems and tall seatposts and it fits them.  They end up in the right position to ride 100s of miles day after day.  But it still does not mean its the right size bike for them.  At a normal 5'10" you need a bike frame with a 56 or 56.5cm toptube.  I am a normal 5'11" and I ride bikes with 57 or 57.5cm toptubes.  And 12cm stems.  And setback seatposts with the saddles slid all the way back.

Gear Talk / Re: Lightweight Slip-Jaw Pliers?
« on: November 17, 2015, 03:07:59 pm »
OTOH, I have a hard time imagining carrying slip joint pilers on tour.

Agree.  Slip joint pliers in the mechanical world, tool world, are sort of the Leatherman tool.  They work usually, but are rarely the first choice to accomplish a job.  I have several Channel Lock pliers of various sizes, but rarely use them.  I usually use the right tool given a choice.  On a bike the slip joint pliers could be used to tighten bolts holding racks, bottle cages, stems.  But it would be easier and better to just carry the right size Allen wrench or open ended wrench.

General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: November 17, 2015, 02:51:23 pm »
I ride a 54CM comfortably and was fitted to that size bike, a Cannondale Super Six. 

My question is, I am 5'10" 215lbs.

I have a couple Cannondales.  Older CAAD7 and 9 aluminum models.  Maybe Cannondale sizes bikes differently now.  I am 5'11" tall and normal sized.  I ride 58cm Cannondale frames with a 12cm stem.  About 57cm toptube.  If you are a normal sized 5'10" tall, then your Cannondale is one size too small.  You should be on a 56cm Cannondale.  And a 56cm Surly LHT.

Gear Talk / Re: Looking for a combination road / light touring bike
« on: November 17, 2015, 12:00:27 am »
I have two ti touring bikes - complete and ready to tour both weigh at least 3kg less than their equivalent in steel, and both are a pleasure to ride vs the lifeless steel-framed slugs they replace.

Hmmm.  At least 3 kilograms is 6.6 pounds or more.  Assuming your touring bikes had similar parts and racks and bags before and after you changed from steel to titanium frames, then the frames would weigh about 3+ pounds for the titanium frame, and about 9+ pounds for the steel frame.  I'm pretty sure the steel bikes sold by K-Mart in the 1970s did not have 9 pound frames.  To get to 9 pounds you would need to weld up some plumbing pipe into a frame and fill the tubes with lead.  Or use solid steel bars to make your frame.  But I'm pretty sure all bike frames are made with hollow tubes.  Not solid.

I have a titanium Litespeed bike.  Its titanium frame weighs around 1300 or 1400 grams.  3 pounds or so.  I've ridden it on a few lengthy rides.  Two brevet series and a 1000k and PBP in 2007 for starters.  And a few shorter rides too.  Its a fine bike.  I also have bikes made out of carbon, steel, and aluminum.  I've ridden all of them on short and long rides.  They all ride fine too.

Try to find one of those websites that show the daily temperatures for highs and lows in various points along the route.  The bottom half of California has pretty pleasant temperatures in the winter, but it might still be a bit cool with the winds blowing off the ocean.  Also check the sunrise and sunset times for January.  My home is about even with San Francisco and in January sunrise is about 8AM and sunset is about 4PM.  Give or take a few minutes.  So you don't really have too much time to ride each day.  Or enjoy the scenery along the coast.  Assuming the temps are cool in the morning until about Noon, and you do not start riding until 10 or 11AM each morning, you end up with only 4-5 hours to ride each day.

Gear Talk / Re: Shoes/pedals for a cross country ride?
« on: November 14, 2015, 02:49:18 pm »
Considering this is a post about shoes your assumption would be correct. I bought X-Road Fuel II but that's irrelevant. Was asking about the brand in general.

The title of this thread is "Shoes/pedals for a cross country ride?"  And you consider it irrelevant to mention the model of your Pearl Izumi shoes?  Hmmm.

Pearl Izumi is a fine brand.  Its a slightly premium brand.  Some brands are much more premium.  Many other names are less.  Pearl Izumi is at least average or better on most or all of the things they make.  Can't go too wrong if you choose Pearl Izumi.  It costs more than the lesser names.  But is not quite as expensive as the extreme premium names.

Gear Talk / Re: Shoes/pedals for a cross country ride?
« on: November 13, 2015, 03:36:00 pm »
I found some 2014 Pearl Izumi's at REI's warehouse in Seattle for $48 ($110 retail) because they were "last years model."

You might want to be a bit more specific.  Pearl Izumi makes a wide assortment of shoes and clothing for bicycling.  I have shoes, shorts, tights, jerseys, and gloves made by Pearl Izumi.  I could almost do a commercial for Pearl Izumi advertising their cycling clothes.  Making the assumption you are talking about Pearl Izumi shoes, you might mention which exact model you bought.

Gear Talk / Re: Shoes/pedals for a cross country ride?
« on: November 13, 2015, 10:14:01 am »
I'm quite happy with 5 10s and pinned pedals. With that combination there's no need for cages for keeping a comfortable and efficient cadence between 98-102.

Reckon I would have to see that to believe it.  100 rpm is somewhat fast.  Every 6 tenths of a second, your leg makes a full rotation on the pedals.  Start your foot at 12 o'clock and pedal it around to the same 12 o'clock position in 6 tenths of a second.  Pedaling 100 rpm on loose pedals is possible for a second or two, no problem.  But pedaling 100 rpm on loose pedals for minutes or hours on end, ???  In ancient times the racers used toeclips and straps for the advantage of pulling back and up while pedaling.  But the clips and straps also kept their feet attached to the pedals when they pedaled at high rpms.  Pedaling at high rpm and having your feet fly off the pedals is not something you want to happen in a close group of bikes on a road.

Gear Talk / Re: Looking for a combination road / light touring bike
« on: November 11, 2015, 11:57:08 pm »
I looked up your Cannondale SR500 bike.  It is a road racing style bike.  Drop bars, narrow tires.  Not sure if you have downtube shifters or more modern STI style shift/brake levers.  About any bike on earth will work for your van supported Southern Tier.  And it will also work for the other riding you described.  Unless the bike is an exact copy of a Tour de France race bike, it will almost surely accommodate 28mm tires.  You would almost have to search high and low to find a road bike that will not work with 28mm tires.  I'd suggest just going to a bike shop and find a bike you like.  It will work for you.  Make them put 28mm tires on it if you are worried.  For touring, check out the bags made by the companies below.  Carrying a tent and sleeping bag might be challenging, but you might be able to squeeze them in if you get the lightest and tiniest ones you can find.  A large saddlebag, frame bag, and maybe a handlebar bag should hold all you need for light touring.

And road bike tires work fine on gravel roads because the cars have made hard smooth paths in the gravel that are good for riding with road tires.  On gravel roads you are not really riding on the rocks.  You would need 2 inch wide mountain bike tires to comfortably ride on the loose rocks.  The pounded down smooth road tracks on gravel roads are fine for road bike tires.  Nothing special needed.

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