Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - RussSeaton

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 26
1
Gear Talk / Re: Looking for a good touring shoe.
« on: November 18, 2014, 04:40:17 pm »
Big dollar shoes are not necessarily a necessity on a bike tour.

On the Nashbar website they have six shoes which take SPD cleats for $29.99 or less.  Before using a 20% off coupon Nashbar frequently has.  On the Amazon site the Crocs shoes are about $25-30.  These are official Croc brand shoes so they might be much more than the copy shoes sold in flea markets.  $30 or less for a pair of shoes does not meet my definition of "Big dollar shoes".  All of the $29.99 or less Nashbar bike shoes looked like sneakers so I would guess they are comfortable.

2
General Discussion / Re: Ideas for winter bike tour
« on: November 09, 2014, 10:13:58 am »
You'll have to check on the weather.  I toured southern Portugal and southern Spain near the Rock of Gibraltar in mid November.  Weather may still be OK in Jan-Feb-Mar.  Weather was great for me.  Shorts and jersey all the time.  Great roads for cycling.  No traffic.  Scenic countryside.

3
Gear Talk / Re: chain ring sizing
« on: November 05, 2014, 01:51:40 pm »
Your chainrings sizes are fine.  On my 1991 Trek 520 I used 50-45-24 chainrings.  Then 48-45-24 rings.  Current bike has 44-33-20 rings.  Shifting to and from the inner chainring has always worked perfectly using either triple or double front derailleurs.  Barend or STI shifters.

http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components1/road/105/fd-5703-b-l.html
Above is a link to the Shimano 105 triple front derailleur.  It lists 20 teeth as the maximum capacity.  Difference between large and small chainrings.  But this number is very conservative.  And fictional.  You can exceed the 20 teeth difference and be just fine.

As for your quicklink coming undone.  Unsure.  Perhaps you did not have it installed correctly and it took until then under those exact circumstances to come undone.  Some of them click together.  Others just fit together with nothing clicking to hold them together.

4
General Discussion / Re: Touring Bicycle
« on: November 03, 2014, 01:42:18 pm »
I'm wondering how a cyclist from Kansas knows that he's a strong climber. He surely didn't figure that out in Kansas!

There's two kinds of climbs the touring cyclist needs to worry about: (1) 20% grades for a quarter of a mile (e.g., in the Ozarks, New England or Appalachians) and (2) 6 to 8% grades for 30 straight miles (e.g., the Rockies).

Its obvious you have never ridden in Kansas.  Believe it or not, Kansas is not flat.  The eastern third of the state is mostly rolling hills.  The western half is undulating.  1/4 to 1/2 mile long rises and then about the same declines.  Over and over and over and over.  Eastern half of Colorado is like that too.  Always rolling up and down mile after mile.  1 mile long climb, 1 mile long descent, 3 miles flat, repeat over and over.  Bigger hills in eastern Colorado than in western Kansas.

You will have to tell me where these 30 mile long climbs in the Rockies are.  I've ridden all over Colorado and never found any climbs that long.  All the mountain climbs I found in Colorado were about 7 to 10 miles long.  Then you go over the peak and go down for about the same distance.  Never ever 30 straight miles of climbing.

5
General Discussion / Re: Choosing a Bike
« on: November 01, 2014, 03:17:38 pm »
Everything you mention is correct but it could be summed up in one word: Walmart

No.  Apparently you have not looked at the bikes at Walmart recently.  Below are a few links to bicycles sold on the Walmart website.  And I presume in their stores too.  The frames, fork, components all look to be good quality.  You could easily ride these bikes across the country or around your town for many years.  Assembly may be questionable.  But there are probably a few local bike shops that also do not assemble correctly.  It would be best if you were a bike mechanic yourself.  Of course I think all bike riders should own all bike tools and do all their own maintenance and assembly and wheel building.  Probably not realistic.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Cycle-Force-Tour-de-France-Packleader-Elite-43cm-Road-Bicycle/15382828
Schwinn hybrid with Shimano Tiagra and 2300 components.  700C wheels.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/700c-Schwinn-Varsity-1500-Men-s-Road-Bike/21191102
Schwinn Varsity road bike with Shimano 2300 components and Microshift shifters.  Microshift is an STI type click shifter sold by Nashbar also.  700C wheels.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Cycle-Force-Tour-de-France-Stage-One-Elite-49cm-Road-Bicycle/15382666
Road bicycle with Shimano 2300 shifters and derailleurs.  700C wheels.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/700c-Schwinn-Phocus-1600-Men-s-Road-Bike-Silver/23891924
Schwinn road bike with Shimano shifters and derailleurs.  700C wheels.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Vilano-Men-s-Shimano-STI-Integrated-Shifter-Shadow-Road-Bike/34237166
Aluminum road bike with Shimano STI shifters.

All of these bikes probably have questionable assembly.  And sizing seems weird.  You have one frame size choice for every bike.  No multiple frame sizes for each bike.  Odd.  But all of the bikes above appear to be decent quality frames and forks and components.  With personal mechanic ability, they should all work very well for many years.  A lot higher quality bike than my first Schwinn road bike bought from the local bike shop back in the very early 1980s.  Think of these as Ikea bikes.  Decent quality parts but the buyer has to assemble himself.  Nothing high faluting, but functional.

6
General Discussion / Re: Choosing a Bike
« on: October 31, 2014, 11:43:14 pm »
I'll give an opinion on the bike.  What everyone else has said should be considered.  This bike does not appear to be setup for touring/carrying baggage.  There does not appear to be any way to mount racks.  The brakes are sidepull calipers.  They will not be able to fit wide tires.  Anything wider than 28mm likely will not fit.  The shifters are mountain bike shifters mounted on top of the handlebars on either side of the stem.  This does not seem like a good way to shift a road bicycle.  Gearing seems OK.  Triple crankset with at least a medium sized 7 speed cogset in back.  Probably low enough gears if you do not run into anything real steep.  You would need to be a pretty good bike mechanic to grease and tune the bike after you buy it.  And be able to true and build wheels.  Assembly is probably not good.  I think you would be better off finding a used bike more suitable to touring.  You probably need to learn more about bike mechanics.

7
General Discussion / Re: Touring Bicycle
« on: October 25, 2014, 06:35:08 pm »
I'll contribute to this thread.  Already mentioned, Trek 520, Surly Long Haul Trucker, REI Novara Randonnee.  These three are the name brand full touring bikes.  All three are more or less identical.  All sell for about $1500.  All will work fine as loaded touring bikes carrying four panniers and a handlebar bag and a tent on the rear rack.  Other possible options for bike mechanics, Nashbar touring bike and BikesDirect touring bikes.  These are around $700.  These are fairly close to the three name brand models.  The parts are lesser in the hierarchy but will function as well in the real world.  BUT, you will need to tune and overhaul the bikes to make them function well.  Think of them as kits with all the parts but assembly required.  All of these bikes will carry panniers and have low gearing.  Low enough to crawl up any hills you come across.  And you can probably put a 22 or 24 tooth inner chainring on the triple cranksets of any of these bikes.  And a 32 or 34 rear cassette in 9 or 10 speed.  Better to have low gears you do not use than the opposite.  A full on touring bike will work fine no matter whether you are carrying a lot of gear or going ultralight.  Or carrying nothing.  They are durable bikes that keep working almost forever.  You can use them to commute to work or the grocery store too.  They are functional.

8
I am 5'11" tall and my Trek size is a 58cm frame.  At 6'4" there is no way you fit a 58cm Trek frame.  I doubt a 60cm Trek frame will fit you.  Not sure Trek makes a 62cm frame or not.  But the 58cm Trek is way too small for you.  Way too small.  You need at least a 60cm or bigger frame.  Since you seem to not have a bike or any knowledge of your bike size, you probably need to go to a bike shop to find a bike.

9
Classifieds / Re: FS: Cannondale Touring, Jumbo Sized Frame
« on: October 14, 2014, 04:23:53 pm »
Here is a website showing the Jumbo frame size dimensions.
http://www.cyclenewzealand.com/cannondale-touring-t2-and-t800/

10
Gear Talk / Re: Looking for a good touring shoe.
« on: October 11, 2014, 04:07:10 pm »
About half my bikes, including the touring bike, have Shimano SPD pedals using the two bolt cleat.  The other half of the bikes have Shimano SPD-SL pedals using the Look style three bolt triangle cleat.  The SPD pedals are the lower priced Shimano pedals, two sided, no cage for sneaker shoes.  You can find the lower priced Shimano brand SPD pedals for about $30 to $50 online.  For shoes I use sandals with the SPD pedals.  Lake or Shimano sandals.  Unfortunately I don't think the Lake sandals are made anymore.  The sandals will work as your off bike, walk around town shoe too.  No need to bring a pair of sneakers for non riding days.  Still need a pair of flip flops for showers.

http://www.shimano-lifestylegear.com/us/fw/products/tour/003sh_sd66.php?pSccontentsPro

11
General Discussion / Re: Handlebar Grips
« on: September 22, 2014, 08:21:40 pm »
I am going to go along with Paddleboy on this.  Something is not adding up right.  You have a hybrid bike.  You should be sitting pretty much straight up and down with all of your weight on your backside.  Your hands should just be touching the handlebars with absolutely no weight on them.  You probably should not be bent over at a 45 degree or 30 degree angle with your hands holding up your upper body.  And you stretching forward a lot.  Are your handlebars low?  Below the saddle?  Maybe, maybe, maybe trying a shorter stem with it angled upwards would work to get your upper body more upright and you not leaning forward and down.

12
General Discussion / Re: Can scooters ride the routes?
« on: September 08, 2014, 02:00:55 pm »
so I can hop on and off the bike path when needed.

NO.  Let me repeat so you understand, NO you cannot ride a motorized scooter on bike paths.  That is the rule/law in my state and I assume it applies to bike paths in other states.  Scooters, like the Italian Vespa ones, are not allowed on bike paths.  They are quasi motorcycles.  Motorized bicycles, bikes with a motor driving one of the wheels, are a different matter.

13
General Discussion / Re: Help me decide on this last minute tour.
« on: August 24, 2014, 03:01:34 pm »
I vote for your Colorado ride.  I have ridden two organized week long rides in Colorado.  There used to be a couple organizations that put on week long rides.  They were good.  Enough mountains to climb.  Few hundred or few thousands of people.  I think they were June or July.  I have toured two weeks in September in the Rockies.  Silverton, Durango, and other towns to the east.  Cold and rainy a couple days.  But the weather was OK.  Pleasant out of the mountains and the climbs and descents were not too bad.  Colorado is good in September.  Plenty of motels in Colorado towns so you do not have to camp.  Enough towns so you do not have to ride too far between refreshments.  Although riding east out of Durango on the state road that goes back to the Rockies, there is nothing for 50 or more miles.  Just wide open desert, waste land.  No towns, no services, no nothing east of Durango.  Never much traffic on the side roads in Colorado.  Always a car every now and then, but you usually have the road to yourself.  I've even ridden on a few busier roads and they were not that busy.

14
Routes / Re: Seeking Advice for a Cross Country Route
« on: August 15, 2014, 11:09:20 am »
Your departure dates are February 1 to March 31.  Too early to be riding anywhere in the northern two thirds of the country.  I'm in the middle of the Midwest, and we can easily get snow and freezing temperatures through March.  Sometimes into April too.  And if you try to start riding in the northeast in Feb. or Mar., you will get snow and freezing temps too.  As already mentioned, the Rocky mountains will have snow and freezing temps into June.  But trying to cycle from the Atlantic to the Rockies before May or June would be so miserable you would likely give up cycling for the rest of your life.  Starting in Feb. or Mar., your only viable option is to ride the Southern Tier.  And if you are finishing up the Northern Tier now, you don't have too much time to get out of the NE and down south to the Southern Tier starting point before the bad weather hits the NE.  You will have bad weather and cold in the NE starting in October and November.  So don't hang around the NE too long.  Get south fast before winter hits.

15
Gear Talk / Re: trikes
« on: August 06, 2014, 04:20:06 pm »
I have a friend with a trike.  That is as close to trikes as I have gotten.  So be forewarned.  All recumbents are as low as trikes.  Recumbents and trikes have similar riding positions.  So having your head at the same level as a car grill is not unique.  I'm guessing recumbent riders overcome it so trike riders must too.  On recumbents and trikes you are sitting on your backside leaning back a bit with your back against a fabric chair.  And your feet are in front of your body pedaling.  Sticking straight out in front of you.  If being so low bothers you, then do not ride recumbents or trikes and stick with regular bicycles where your head is above the car.

As for safety of trikes.  I have not heard any stories of high rates of accidents with trikes or recumbents compared to regular bicycles.  So guessing they are not any more dangerous or safer than regular bicycles.  I have heard stories that recumbents and likely trikes are more noticed than regular bicycles because they are so different.  Car drivers see them because they are unique.  Safer?  Maybe.  Trikes do have the disadvantage of being wider than a regular bicycle.  Trikes are about 3 feet wide total between the outside wheels.  Regular upright bicycles are about 2 feet wide.  The width of the rider's behind.  So its easier to fit between objects with an upright bicycle.  When riding on the right side of the road, you will have one wheel close to the white line.  And the other wheel will be about 3 feet over.  So with a trike you are taking up more space on the road.  Maybe easier to get sideswiped by a motorist not paying attention or caring.  Probably in reality one foot difference in width should not make any difference on the road.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 26