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Messages - RussSeaton

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16
General Discussion / Re: How often do you do pedal maintenance???
« on: November 05, 2016, 08:15:24 pm »
Never.  I use Shimano SPD and Shimano SPD-SL pedals.  Shimano brand.  They never ever need maintenance.  I did break an axle back in spring 2007.  Had to ride about 7 miles back to the start location in that instance.  Other than that, never had an issue with Shimano brand pedals.

17
Urban Cycling / Re: E-bikes in bike lanes: ok or invasive species?
« on: November 03, 2016, 10:21:07 pm »
Guess I am not too up to date on E bikes.  I assumed their top speed was 20-25 mph.  High but normal pedal bike speeds.  They were not mopeds.  But the E bikes you see are essentially mopeds going 30+ mph?  Mopeds and bikes should not be sharing a bike lane.  I don't like to share the bike trails with walkers and dog walkers when I am on my bike.

18
General Discussion / Re: summer sleeping
« on: November 03, 2016, 07:02:46 pm »
My advice may be worthless in this matter.  But...  The Atlantic route is near the ocean.  So you will have cooler temps from the ocean and breezes blowing in from the ocean will be cooler.  The oceans make the coast cooler in the summer and warmer in winter.  The water acts opposite of the land.  It could also rain more than normal along the ocean compared to inland.  And fog and mist from the ocean.  So that will also bring cooler weather.  Temps always go down when it rains.  I have a down sleeping bag rated for about 45 degrees.  It weighs 1 pound.  Same or less than your quilt or blanket.  Ideal for summer camping.  And you can always put on extra clothes/socks at night to sleep.  Carry a balaclava or beanie to use at night.  Its lightweight.

19
Gear Talk / Re: Shifters-integrated vs bar-end
« on: November 03, 2016, 06:52:23 pm »
I've got a bike with Shimano brifters, one with Campy brifters, and one with bar-ends and like riding them all!.  Frankly, the worst part about switching between bikes is the difference between the Shimano and Campy,

Hmmm.  Not me.  Ergo 9 and 10.  STI 10.  Di2 10.  Zero trouble riding any of them at anytime.  Normally I only ride one bike per day.  So there is never any instantaneous switching involved.  Its just select a bike, then shift it when leaving the driveway.

20
Gear Talk / Re: Shifters-integrated vs bar-end
« on: November 02, 2016, 05:46:34 pm »
Shimano STI shifters versus Shimano bar end shifters.  Quickness, ease, fun all go to the STI shifters.  Both work.  I used bar end for about 10 years.  Ergo and STI for the past 15 plus years.  Cost is less for the bar end shifters.  About $100 give or take.  When comparing cost be sure to compare the separate brake levers AND bar end shifters to the STI shifters.  The bar end shifters are only shifters, you still have to buy separate brake levers extra.  STI are shifters and brake levers all in one.  Some people claim STI are fragile and break and bar end are 100% solid forever and ever.  Not true.  Did repair an Ergo shifter once.  Never repaired STI.  Friend has a busted but still working STI.  Did wear out bar end after 12 years or so.  Still shifted but no more indexing and was imprecise.

21
General Discussion / Re: Which bike should I travel the U.S. with?
« on: November 02, 2016, 03:11:00 pm »
Travel the US?  Paved roads from the Atlantic to the Pacific?  Or gravel, dirt roads from Canada to Mexico?  If the former, then I'd suggest selling the Pugsley and buying a normal loaded touring bike for paved roads.  I like panniers, but trailers work too.  If doing that Rocky Mountain ride, then probably your old mountain bike would be best.  I have read the mountain bike route is not gnarly single track and extreme stuff.  Its sort of mild dirt trails and gravel roads.  You could sell the Pugsley and use the funds on the trip.  Basically the Pugsley is incorrect for almost all riding.  Unless you plan to ride the beaches from Seattle to San Diego.  Or maybe ride the Rocky Mountain trail in the middle of winter and need some flotation for the snow.  If riding on the paved roads, use some skinnier smoother tires.

22
Personally I don't get why folks like to ride in boots or sandals when cranking out long miles, but I guess it is a matter of personal preference.  I much prefer a pair of bike shoes with plenty of mesh for good ventilation, drying, and drainage.

Sandals are superior to your biking shoes for everything you say is important to you.  Sandals eliminate the use of mesh entirely.  So sandals provide great, not good, but great ventilation.  Great drying.  Great drainage.  Mountain bike shoes have their place.  Such as when mountain biking and you might hit your foot on a rock or tree or crash.  And they are better than sandals when you might hit your foot on something.  When I tour I don't hit my feet on stuff.  So sandals are superior to shoes for touring.

23
I recommend SPD sandals for biking shoes on tours.  And if you are going lightweight, then use these for your off bike walking around too.  They are fine for walking around town and out to supper.  They can easily be your only shoe on tours.  Last night I rode to Home Depot using my SPD sandals.  I was fine walking around the store and in and out of the store with the SPD sandals.  Also fine walking through the construction area on the way.  Around lumber, over rebar, through dirt and gravel.  Could not tell I did not have on regular sneakers.

24
Routes / Re: Great Rivers South in November/December
« on: October 17, 2016, 01:21:41 am »
I live about equal with Muscatine, Iowa.  Same north level.  Not sure if that is latitude or longitude.  November in Iowa usually has lows at night of 30s-40s.  And daytime highs of 30s to 50s.  Sometimes its warmer.  Or colder.  But count on upper 30s to upper 50s for all 24 hours.  If its a sunny day, its pleasant daytime riding weather.  But you still may want tights and a jacket and a long sleeve jersey.  You can get by without gloves usually.  But its not hot or really even warm.  Its OK in the sunshine.  From about Noon until 4PM its OK for riding in November at the northern end of your route.  You will have no problem doing the ride at this time of year.  But I am not sure it will be all that enjoyable weather wise.  You won't jump out of bed and say lets ride.  You will say, its chilly.  Brrrr.  From St. Louis south it will be nicer riding weather.  But the first week may not be too pleasant.

25
Gear Talk / Re: Advice for choosing components to reduce gear inches
« on: October 12, 2016, 03:39:06 pm »
If you go nutty and try a 36 rear cog, then your derailleur hanger my not be low enough and the rear derailleur will not fit underneath the 36 cog.  So that will not work. 

I add that changing components to get below 20 gear inches can be much more challenging than being satisfied with a 20 inch low.

24x32 low gear with 700C wheels gets you down to 20 gear inches.  It used to be very easy to get a triple crank with a 74mm bcd inner ring.  Put a 32 cassette on the bike and you are at 20 gear inches.  Very easy.  Every touring bike ever made can fit this.  Going to a mountain bike triple with 22 inner ring gets you another 1-2 gear inches lower.  Going to a 34 or 36 cassette gets you another 1-2 gear inches.  All very small changes.  Once you get to 20 low, you are low enough.  Everything else will probably not even be noticed.

26
Gear Talk / Re: Advice for choosing components to reduce gear inches
« on: October 11, 2016, 10:39:04 pm »
Unfortunately, you seem to have picked the most messed up crankset Shimano makes.  A FOUR bolt crankset that uses 110/74mm bcd.  Until now I had never heard of such a thing.  And looking around, there are ZERO chainrings available for this goofy size.  So it looks like this crankset is stuck with the factory 50-39-30 configuration.  Maybe the simplest and cheapest solution is to just replace the crankset with a Sora triple.  See following links.  It has a 74mm bcd FIVE bolt inner chainring.  You can cheaply and easily put a 24 tooth inner ring on it.  Then your low becomes 24x32.  Should be low enough.  You could also try a 11-34 cassette.  Get a little lower and probably not much chance your rear derailleur will not work with that.  If you go nutty and try a 36 rear cog, then your derailleur hanger my not be low enough and the rear derailleur will not fit underneath the 36 cog.  So that will not work.  34 most likely not a problem.  But you have to try it to know.  Going with a mountain bike triple crankset will allow you to get a 22 tooth inner ring.  Little lower than the Sora 24 inner ring.  Not sure it makes much difference.  Safest is to go with the Sora.  Positive it will work 100% fine.  24 inner ring is low enough.  I rode the Dolomites and Alps with a 24x32 low gear and four panniers and other bags.

http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Sora-FC3503-Triple-Crankset
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/shimano-sora-triple-3503-9spd-chainset/pid=19642?currency=USD&location=USA

http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/adventure/adventure/tour-de-fer/tour-de-fer-20

My current touring bike has Shimano 105 triple STI 10 speed shifters, Tiagra triple front derailleur, and 9 speed Deore rear derailleur.  10 speed cassette 11-32.  Shifting is 100% perfect always.  Crank is old 7 speed Deore with TA 44-33-20 rings.  Inner ring is down to 20 through a Avid Tri-Adaptor thing that allows me to replace the separate spacers and bolt on a 58mm bcd inner ring.  Perfect shifting always.  Doubt there is enough room to allow the rear derailleur to get under a 34 ring on the cassette.  No way in He-- it could ever fit under a 36 ring.  Rear derailleur hanger length will decide if your bike can fit a 32, 34, or other rear cog.  32 cog always works. 34 may or may not work.  36 is very doubtful unless the bike was specifically built to work with that pie plate.

27
General Discussion / Re: Bike all lower 48 states
« on: September 21, 2016, 03:32:45 pm »
STEP great grand father.  When you add the step, I'm not sure it even qualifies for anything more than the husband part.

28
Your thread title said "...for Touring?"  You are not touring.  You are commuting.  Riding around town.  Etc.  There is a big difference between "Touring" and riding around town.  Different bikes, different gear, maybe different clothes too.  If someone asked which panniers to buy for riding around the world and which panniers to buy for going to the grocery store, I might give slightly different answers.  And if someone asked which bike to buy for touring around the world and which bike to buy for commuting to an eating place in the evening, I'd likely give a different answer.  My original comments about needing six different lights on a touring bike still apply.  You don't need them.  Touring is a daylight activity.

Please change the title of your thread to "3 AAA Battery Bike Lights Vs USB Battery Bike Light for COMMUTING?"

29
General Discussion / Re: Bike all lower 48 states
« on: September 19, 2016, 11:05:29 pm »
BTW I am a 50 year old greatgrandfather.

???  You had a child at 17.  That makes you a father.  Your kid had a child at 17.  That makes you a grandfather and you 34 years old.  This grandkid had a child at 16.  That makes you a great grandfather and you 50 years old.  Is that about right?

As for your bike trip I'd suggest just starting in one corner of the country and keep riding and zig zagging until you hit all the states.  It will likely take a few years.

30
Unfortunately it sounds like you don't know much of anything about bike mechanics.  So maybe the best advice is to go to a local bike shop and have them do it after you explain what you want.  But what the hell, I'll give advice.

Assume your double cross check bike has the bar end shifters.  So it will shift any front derailleur, double or triple.  And any 10 speed cassette.  Simplest might be to put a triple crank on the bike, any of the ones you mention would work.  Get the smallest inner chainring possible.  22 tooth or at worst 24 if that is the smallest that fits.  Keep the outer chainring somewhat small too.  44 outer is great.  May need a new longer bottom bracket to space the inner ring out from the seattube.  And a triple front derailleur.  Some double front derailleurs shift a triple fine.  Have to try it to see if yours works.

Another option is to put a mountain bike double crankset on the bike.  These have around a 40 outer ring and can go down to a 22 inner ring.  Usually sold with a bigger inner ring so have to replace.  This keeps all your derailleurs the same.  Look at Nashbar.  They sell lots of Shmano double mountain cranks.  Not sure there are any that take a square taper bottom bracket like you have now.  So may need a new bottom bracket with the crank.  That is easy.  You could easily get 42-22 rings on the crank.  With your 11-32 cassette, you will have enough high and low gears for anything.  Derailleurs stay the same.  Look for double cranks that take 104mm bcd outer and 64mm bcd inner.  All 4 bolt.

Another possibility is to replace your 11-32 ten speed cassette with a 11-34 ten speed cassette.  Get a little lower low gear.  Not a lot but a little lower.  Might not be cost effective to replace new with new.  But if replacing an old worn out cassette, look at the 11-34 option.

The IRD triple adaptor would work OK.  Get a 24 tooth inner chainring for it.  Add the right spacers and bolts for the inner ring.  Go to a bike shop.  You would have to replace the bottom bracket with a longer one.  Easy and cheap.  Current derailleurs will work fine with it.  May or may not need to change your current double front derailleur with a triple front derailleur.  Try it to tell.  Current chain and cassette also work fine.  You're worried about breaking it?  Ha Ha Ho Ho.  I suppose you worry about winning the lottery too.  Terrible problem.

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