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Messages - RussSeaton

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196
General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: December 30, 2015, 01:20:16 pm »
This is the crankset I found on Merlin Cycles.  Typed in "Shimano Deore M590 Crankset" to Google.
https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-deore-m590-9-speed-chainset-44899.html?utm_campaign=googlebase-US&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=Chainsets&gclid=CPXe352XhMoCFQEIaQodNSYKoA

Friends and I have ordered from Merlin and lots of other British and European internet websites.  Never a problem.  Always much lower prices than US sellers.

197
Gear Talk / Re: Salsa Marrakesh
« on: December 28, 2015, 10:15:42 pm »
Both Salsa and surly are owned by QBP.

Did not know that.

As for the comment that the Salsa has a better component spec, NO it does not.  If you look at the REI Randonee you will see it is only $1200 retail price and has better Shimano derailleurs and hubs and is 10 speed instead of 9 speed for the Salsa.  So Salsa/Surly/QBP is charging 33% more and giving you lesser Shimano parts.  Sounds pretty normal.  The wheels on the Salsa are $130 retail at Price Point for the pair.  $1470 retail for the other parts/frame on the Salsa seem kind of high.  The Surly Long Haul Trucker complete bike is $1400.  $200 less than the Salsa.  The Surly Long Haul frameset is only $470.  So $470 for the Surly/Salsa frameset, $130 for the wheels on the Salsa, and maybe another $600 to buy retail all the other parts on the bike.  About $1200 retail price, about the same as the REI bike.  Within sight maybe of the Surly bike price.  But hundreds less than the Salsa price of $1600.  Now I am all for spending lots of money on bikes.  Spend more, be happier, ride faster or further.  Yeah.  But to pay more for nothing more seems wasteful to me.  If you spend more and get more, then go for it if you want.  But to pay more and get the same is not wise.

198
Gear Talk / Re: Salsa Marrakesh
« on: December 28, 2015, 07:59:10 pm »
Looks very similar to Trek 520, Surly Long Haul, REI Randonee.  Steel frame, fork, bar end shifters, triple crank, derailleurs, braze ons, etc.  Priced about the same at $1600.  Odd that Salsa chose 9 speed instead of 10 speed.  Don't see any good reason to go into the past for parts.  10 speed has been the normal for road and mountain bikes for a decade or more.  And 11 is the new norm now days.  Why intentionally choose parts that are 10-15 years past their prime?

199
General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT/Disc Trucker
« on: December 28, 2015, 07:42:56 pm »
I am looking at the Shimano Deore M590 9Speed Crankset, 26-36-48.  Can this be considered a touring crankset?

This is a 9 speed crankset.  Around $62 from Merlin Cycles in 44-32-22 rings.  Why pick the odd 48-36-26 combination instead of the much better rings/crank I listed?  It costs $20-25 for a better 22 inner ring.  Yes it will work fine for touring.

200
General Discussion / Re: Cost of a cross country USA trip?
« on: December 23, 2015, 09:12:18 pm »
On my last long ride, Seattle to San Diego, the longest I went was 2 days without seeing a town. During those two days I ate a few Cup O' Noodles, a package of beef jerky and two cups of oatmeal.

[/quote]$10 was more than I ever spent for food in an entire day for myself in any of the previous 4 tours. I was averaging around $8/day for food.[/quote]

We must live in different worlds and galaxies.  Your two day menu would not get me from breakfast to lunch if I laid on the couch, let alone riding a bike all day.  I would have to be very frugal and cook all my own food all day long to make it on $10.  I eat a lot of processed, ready to eat foods while biking.  Usually bought at a convenience store.  So $10 might get me between breakfast and supper.  Plus another $10 for food cooked by me for breakfast and supper.

201
General Discussion / Re: Cost of a cross country USA trip?
« on: December 23, 2015, 04:02:25 pm »
Considering summits cost upwards of $40K I wish I'd taken that chance.

I don't think you should regret passing up the opportunity to climb Everest.  Yes it would be a memory that would last forever.  You could legitimately compare yourself with a straight face to Sir Edmund Hillary or Tenzing Norgay.  But the real risk of death is too great for Himalayan climbing.  I don't know the official death rate of climbers in the Himalayas but I would guess it is 2-3% or so.  Maybe more.  Imagine if riding your bike was that dangerous.  I ride 100+ rides each year of various lengths.  I would die twice every year if bike riding was as dangerous as Himalayan mountain climbing.  I would not ride a bike.

Now seeing Everest and the Himalayas and safely hiking around the area, I would do that with glee.  That would give me plenty of memories.  Let others get the climbing Everest memory.

202
General Discussion / Re: Cost of a cross country USA trip?
« on: December 22, 2015, 08:30:42 pm »
"Males ages 20 to 29 are the group most often being rescued in the national parks, according to park service data."
talked with her friend, the NPS ranger about rescues.
She confirmed the above data in spades. Just FYI.

Yes.  Nothing mysterious or unknown about that statement.  That group is the most carefree, reckless, unencumbered, risky.  And add to that the fact they have not lived or experienced enough of life to appreciate or recognize the dangers involved.  Its also pretty cheap and easy to get to national parks so poor young kids can do adventures there.  In contrast I would guess its mostly 40s and 50s who get in trouble at Mt. Everest because it takes a whole lot of money to climb Everest.  Older folks have more money than younger folks.

203
General Discussion / Re: bike vs. bike
« on: December 19, 2015, 10:23:04 pm »
Amongst my nine current bikes, they all ride well.  Stable, able to ride in a straight line with minimal input or attention from me.  Yet they are not sluggish or boring either.  They all ride right.  Even the touring bike when its fully loaded or unloaded.  I had a bike that was very twitchy, dangerous because it could not be ridden in a straight line.  Riding no hands was impossible.  It was a horrible handling bike.  I'd suggest test riding numerous bikes, not just touring but racing bikes as well.  Figure out what good handling is and most important, what awful handling is.  Then you can ride the touring bikes again and figure out which is best.

204
Gear Talk / Re: Thoughts on "fat-tired" touring bikes?
« on: December 13, 2015, 05:10:27 pm »
I believe it's ~358 miles are unpaved. As in ~174 is dirt like and ~184 gravel.

OK.  It looks like all of the gravel miles are the Katy trail in Missouri.  Which can be ridden with skinny road tires if dry.  Still recommend just avoiding all the unpaved sections if it is wet.  Find paved roads nearby if it is wet.

205
Gear Talk / Re: Drivetrain HELP
« on: December 12, 2015, 07:32:08 pm »
for a touring bike what's the perceived benefit for going with XT instead of mid line Shimano?

Perceived benefit.  Easy.  The top groups, XTR for mountain, Dura Ace for road, are better because they are lighter, higher quality, more expensive, prettier, nicer, etc.  Maybe, maybe it lasts longer too.  Maybe.  Higher groups may use bearings instead of bushings.  Maybe the higher groups have more advanced, newer features.  Maybe.  Higher groups may use more exotic material, titanium and carbon instead of aluminum or steel.  Within the Shimano lineup, they all work very well, last a long time, cost different.  Buy whichever you want.  They all work the same.

206
Gear Talk / Re: Drivetrain HELP
« on: December 10, 2015, 03:13:23 pm »
What it sounds like to me is 10 speed 42/32/24 but change the smallest ring to a 22. I could go with 11-34 rear cassette so everything should work.

Sounds just about perfect gearing for a loaded touring bike.  The 42x11 high gear may limit you to only achieving 56 mph down a mountain instead of the 58 mph you could achieve with a 44x11 high gear.  You will have to learn to live with that deficiency and overcome it somehow.  The 22 inner chainring will rarely see much use.  Unless you have steep hills around home or are in the mountains, you will never shift to the inner chainring.  The 32 middle ring and the bigger cassette cogs will allow you to climb pretty steep hills.  The inner ring is just an emergency, just in case gear.

207
Gear Talk / Re: Drivetrain HELP
« on: December 09, 2015, 01:13:03 pm »
I have 10 speed Shimano on my touring bike.  Triple crank.  I'd suggest going 10 speed cassette.  9 is slightly old, outdated, and the 10 works perfect.  So no rational reason not to have one more gear.  You are buying everything new, so get the newest, most up to date components.  As DaveB said, there are some compatibility issues between road STI shifters and MTB derailleurs and speeds.  I have some 105 STI 10 speed levers and a very cheap 9 speed Deore rear derailleur.  Might have cost all of $20 for the rear derailleur.  So its real easy and cheap to make things work right.

As for gearing choices, I like about a 4 to 1 high gear.  So 44 chainring and 11 cassette.  42x11 is also close enough.  Your 40 outer ring choice would not be my choice.  For the inner chainring, smallest possible no matter what.  For your cranks it is 22 tooth inner chainring.  64mm bolt circle diameter.  Its very easy and inexpensive to replace the inner ring on a crankset if the outer and middle are your preferred choice.  And biggest cassette cog possible, sort of, on the cassette.  Cassettes for 9 and 10 speed have either 32, 34, or 36 for the biggest cog.  32 and 34 will work with about all touring bikes no problem.  The 36 may be too big on some touring bikes.  Have to try it to find out.  The rear derailleur upper pulley will not be able to get under the 36 cog.  Likely due to the rear derailleur hanger not being long and low enough to allow the pulley to get under the cog.  Works for 32 and 34 big cogs, but not enough clearance for the bigger 36 cog.  But whether you have a 32, 34, or 36 big cog, does not matter because it amounts to about 1 gear inch difference between each.  Tiny.

208
Gear Talk / Re: Thoughts on "fat-tired" touring bikes?
« on: December 07, 2015, 08:24:20 pm »
The ACA recommends for the Lewis and Clark Trail "that you equip yourself with a fat-tired touring bicycle."

The route description says this:  "there are 174 miles of unpaved rail-trails and 184.3 miles of gravel, 24.5 of which are unavoidable if you stay on the main route."  Not sure if this means a total of 358 unpaved and gravel roads or if the 174 unpaved is part of the 184 gravel.  Route is a total of 3,143 miles going west.  So either 11% or 6% is unpaved.  Not much really.  All the rest is on paved roads.  I'd advise taking a bike and tires ideal for the 89% or 94% of the route, not the small unpaved portions.  Road bikes and skinny 28mm or 25mm tires do OK on gravel roads.  Wide 32mm or 35mm touring tires do even better on gravel roads.

I have been on a short section of the Katy trail near Columbia, Missouri.  It is very fine gravel/dust.  Not the big chunky gravel on country gravel roads.  If dry, road bikes and tires are probably the best choice for the Katy trail.  Better than mountain bikes.  If wet, then I'd suggest finding the paved roads that more or less parallel the Katy trail.

209
Gear Talk / Re: Front and Rear Racks Recommendation
« on: December 04, 2015, 12:31:46 pm »
I have the Nashbar $19.99 front low rider rack on my touring bike right now.  Works good.  Blackburn EX-1 rear rack on the touring bike.  Its $35 on Amazon.  Think its less today than what I paid for it 23 years ago.  Have used these racks for hundreds or thousands of miles of loaded touring.

210
Gear Talk / Re: Front and Rear Racks Recommendation
« on: December 03, 2015, 08:03:02 pm »
I have toured with a Blackburn Expedition rear rack, their heavy duty model.  And a Blackburn front low rider pannier rack.  Or a Nashbar front low rider rack.  All made with solid aluminum rods, welded together.  All work just fine.  Might have $60 or $70 into both racks on the bike now.  Plus some welding by my brother and cutting by me on the rear rack.  Had to make it fit the new bike.  Advantage of an aluminum rod rack.  If you know someone who can weld aluminum, you can easily modify it.

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