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Messages - RussSeaton

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196
Gear Talk / Re: Tire recommendations
« on: March 13, 2012, 01:33:36 am »
If I believe that my current tires have enough miles on them to last the trip, I carry no spare. If I don't think they'll make it, I carry one spare and have someone send me an additional tire as soon as I use the first spare.

Makes no sense.  A spare tire is carried for emergencies.  Not normal replacement of a worn out tire.  In the US, Europe, parts of Asia, parts of South America, you will frequently come across bike shops on a tour.  If a tire is wearing out, you buy a new tire before its 100% worn out when you come across a bike shop.  Spare tires that are carried are used when the sidewall gets damaged from a rock or piece of glass.  Or the tread gets a large cut in it.  Or the bead just refuses to stay on the rim anymore.  I had this happen on a tour once.  Tire blew off a couple times and the bead would no longer stay on the clincher rim.  Also not sure why you would monkey around with the hassle of having a spare tire shipped to you when you use the one you are carrying.  Wouldn't it be a whole lot easier to just buy a new spare the next time you run across a bike shop.  Next day probably?

197
Gear Talk / Re: Derailleur compatibility lower gears
« on: March 13, 2012, 01:15:52 am »
To change the rear cassette you will need a cassette lockring remover, a big Crescent wrench to turn it, and a chain whip.  You will also need a new longer chain if you go to a bigger cassette.  So a chain tool is needed to shorten a new chain to the right length.  You can use the chain tool to reconnect it with the special pins provided.  Or use a quick link/master link from SRAM or Wippermann that can be used to reconnect the chain without any tools.  If you get a new rear derailleur, mountain, you will need the chain tool to break the chain to thread it through the pulleys, remove current chain, and a 5mm Allen wrench to install the rear derailleur in the rear dropout.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_183946_-1_201538_10000_202572
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_124680_-1_202642_10000_202579
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_184002_-1_201538_10000_202579
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_208396_-1_200545__202425

198
Gear Talk / Re: Derailleur compatibility lower gears
« on: March 12, 2012, 02:00:22 pm »
The information given is great.  My only addition is to definitely try your current rear derailleur with a 11-32 or 12-32 cassette.  I'm guessing it will work just fine.  My brother ran a 11-32 cassette with a very old short cage Shimano 600 road rear derailleur.  Worked just fine.  So the maximum cog size limitations given are not to be believed.  And as mentioned, cheap 9 speed Shimano long cage rear derailleurs for mountain bikes can be found for $20 and will clear a 32 rear cog just fine.

199
General Discussion / Re: Long distance trip alone?
« on: March 12, 2012, 01:55:35 pm »
The extra information changes it quite a bit.  I can't imagine why any emergency room personnel would search a conscious person for a Medic Alert or Road ID or anything else if they were conscious and you could just talk to them and ask them what was wrong and why they were there.  As you orignally described it the emergency room personnel did not seem to know why they were treating you.  That is a case of bad diagnosis or not looking at the medical records they had on you.  100% unrelated to you wearing an emergency ID.  Why look for an emergency ID on your body if they can just talk to you and ask you to pull out your drivers license and insurance card?  The medical ID is for identification and making people aware of a medical condition when the person is unable to provide that information.  The colorful pretty Road ID is not going to be used/found/looked for if the police/ambulance can talk to you.

200
Gear Talk / Re: used zipp wheels
« on: March 11, 2012, 03:58:13 pm »
Zipp 404 clincher wheels are not for touring.  This is a touring forum.  So any question about Zipp wheels is misplaced.  You would be better off asking somewhere else.  But I'll provide an answer anyway.  At half price you are not really stealing them.  Its not an awful deal.  But its not a great deal either.  Like lots of things, used bike wheels don't hold their value too well.  The rebuilt front wheel is good that it is rebuilt.  But front wheels are pretty simple so rebuilding is not difficult.  And the fact its rebuilt makes me wonder how much wear and tear this wheel had to require a rebuild.  And what else is wrong that did not get rebuilt.  The worn rear wheel as you describe it is not good.  It would seem to need rebuilding.  New bearings are not too difficult to install.  But is the freewheel also in need of replacement.  Lot more expense for that fix.  Based on your description of the wheels and the price, I would not be interested.

201
General Discussion / Re: Long distance trip alone?
« on: March 11, 2012, 03:45:44 pm »
I pulled out my medic alert tag on its stainless steel chain.  The charge nurse turned a ghostly shade of pale.  I had been wearing this tag around my neck day and night for over ten years just for this day and it failed.

When I was discharged and got home, I decided at this point in my life it was appropriate to wear my heart on my sleeve.  I ordered a bright red Road ID wristband and have worn it every day since both on and off the road.

Not saying it did not happen as you describe it.  But based on my numerous experiences, I have a hard time believing it did happen as you describe it.  I've had Medic Alert necklaces and bracelets on for about 30+ years now.  Dozens upon dozens of times they have been used.  I don't recall them ever not being found by the treating paramedic or policeman or even citizens/passersby.  When you are lieing unconscious, people automatically look for the Medic Alert necklace and bracelet.  The necklace is found more often than the bracelet and the necklace is the first thing they look for.  Medic Alert stainless steel necklaces and bracelets are known/recognized by everyone, everyone, everyone.  Whereas the Road ID thing is unknown by everyone.  Its just a piece of costume jewelry.  Looks like one of those decorative Armstrong wrist bands.

202
Gear Talk / Re: For CC Touring:Trek 1.2 or Surly LHT?
« on: March 06, 2012, 10:10:18 am »
I'm guessing CCT means Credit Card Tour.  If so, then a Long Haul Trucker or any touring bike would be near the bottom of the list for bikes I would want to ride on a credit card tour.  Credit Card Tour implies you are carrying so little that it will fit in a large saddlebag or rack top bag.  Or a couple other small bags.  NOT panniers.  If you are using panniers, you are not on a credit card tour.  You are on a full scale loaded expedition tour.  That is different than a credit card tour.  I'd suggest you learn how to pack for a credit card tour, then take your current bike or another racing type bike.

203
General Discussion / Re: overseas travel
« on: March 05, 2012, 06:20:22 pm »
I'll admit to going on old information and experiences.  Last time I used cardboard boxes from the airlines for a bike was November 2000.  Only plane trip since then was using my own hard plastic case for the bike.  You'll have to call and ask directly.

204
General Discussion / Re: overseas travel
« on: March 05, 2012, 10:51:38 am »
Figure out which airlines you will be using.  Then call them up and ask if they have bike boxes at the airports you will be going to.  It costs $10-15 for the boxes.  Buy some tape ahead of time.  If for some reason the airline you are using does not have bike boxes available, find another airline that does.  The airlines will sell a bike box to anyone who wants one.  Not just customers on their airline.

205
More or less, any crankset will work with any derailleurs, chains, cassettes.  I have an old 7 speed crank with 9 speed rings on a 10 speed cassette/chain touring bike.  44 tooth outer chainring shifted by a 9 speed Tiagra road front derailleur.  In theory mountain bike front derailleurs are curved more to better line up with the smaller outer chainrings on mountain bike cranksets.  But in reality, it doesn't matter.  I suppose if you tried to shift 10 or 11 speed chains with 5 speed chainrings, you might have trouble.  So try to get the chainrings close to the chain size.  9-10-11 can be mixed between chainrings, chains, cassettes.  7-8-9 can be mixed.  About the only thing to make sure matches is cassette and chain.  If using a 7 speed cassette, use a 7 speed chain.  If using a 9 speed cassette, use a 9 speed chain.  If using a 10 speed cassette, use a 10 speed chain.

About the only incompatibility is with the newest 10 speed Shimano mountain bike rear derailleurs.  They do not work with road 10 speed STI shifters.  But older 9 speed mountain bike rear derailleurs work fine with road STI shifters of any gearing, 7-8-9-10.  Shimano 9 speed mountain bike rear derailleurs are really cheap, $20 Deore.  So no reason not to use one.  Low end Shimano front derailleurs, Sora, Tiagra, are also really cheap, $15.  So no reason not to use those either.

You've mentioned using your left front STI Shimano 105 shifter to shift a triple crankset.  It shifts a compact double crankset now.  I'm not so sure Shimano STI can shift both double and triple.  Shimano makes unique double and triple STI shifters in Ultegra and 105 models.  So I'm questioning whether your crankset change will be as smooth as you are implying.  I think you will need a new left STI shifter for the triple crankset.

206
Gear Talk / Re: Chain selection
« on: February 29, 2012, 03:54:38 pm »
@DaveB I have always used 12 links and not 24. Is there a reason to do 24 versus 12 links. I can measure 12 links with the chain on the bike where it is under tension.
24 links means I have to remove the chain to measure for wear.

I am of the school where I don't clean my chain. I wipe it down after every ride and lube when it "talks" to me.

Believe it or not, I think you two are using the same length to measure chain wear.  12 inches.  24 pins.  12 full links.  Each full link is composed of two half links and two pins.  The two half links have an open yoke on one end and the closed end on the other.  The open yoke has the plates on the outside, the closed end has the inner plates.  But when you add the two halves together, you get the one complete link that is exactly one inch long.  And has two pins.

207
Gear Talk / Re: packing panniers
« on: February 15, 2012, 03:52:27 pm »
No it won't cause a problem.  Remember back in 1976?  A couple people rode their bikes across the USA.  Followed some route they called Bike Centennial I think.  Every single one of them had a handlebar bag and rear panniers and lots of stuff piled on top of the rear rack.  Every one of them.  The Adventure Cycling website might have pictures of these people.  These people seemed to make it across the USA OK.  I suspect you can make it through a two week tour OK too.  In Dr. Pangloss's best of all possible worlds it would be best to have front and rear panniers.  But its not necessary.

208
General Discussion / Re: NEW BICYCLE QUESTIONS
« on: February 10, 2012, 07:32:24 pm »
Are you really talking about the Continental Grand Prix 4000 tire?  It is a racing type tire.  Widest is 700x25.  Not appropriate for a loaded touring bike.  I would not even carry it as a spare tire for an emergency.

http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/race/racetyres/grand_prix_4000/grandp4000_en.html


209
General Discussion / Re: rondanee vs long haul trucker
« on: February 09, 2012, 01:01:30 pm »
got the bikes new in 2004... getting them refitted in probably our best choice. Front is 48-38-28. and we are 11-34 in back.

Take the bikes to a shop and have 24 tooth inner chainrings installed immediately.  Positive you have road type triple cranksets that take 74 mm bolt circle diameter inner chainrings.  So 24 tooth is the smallest possible.  Going from 28 to 24 will provide a noticable difference.  Not a huge difference lower, but noticable.  Well worth the $20-30 cost of the chainring and labor.  If you have the tools you could do the job yourself in a few minutes easily.  Or if you have friends who are knowledgable about bike mechanics, ask them to install the inner chainring.  Buy the chainrings online cheap.  Its easy with the right tools.  Only a few minutes job.

210
General Discussion / Re: rondanee vs long haul trucker
« on: February 09, 2012, 10:21:57 am »
I agree with the others, keep your current bikes and make sure the gearing is low.  I'm guessing you are not a bike mechanic, so take it to a bike shop.  Get the lowest possible inner chainring.  Probably a 24 tooth chainring ($20) if you have a road type triple crankset.  If you have a mountain bike triple crankset then 22 teeth will be the lowest inner chainring.  Get the biggest cog possible in the back.  Either 32 or 34 teeth cog, whether 8 or 9 or 10 speed cassette ($30-60).  Your bike may or may not be able to shift a 34 cog, so you may have to try it to see if it works.  My touring bike fits a 32, but not a 34 cog.  The rear derailleur hanger is not long enough.  But a 32 rear cog is big enough.  <Maybe need a new chain if you get a bigger rear cog ($20).  No new chain is required if putting on a smaller inner chainring only.  But its good to start a long ride with a new chain anyway.

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