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Messages - RussSeaton

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211
General Discussion / Re: Comments on Schwinn World Tour DLX
« on: November 12, 2010, 11:10:02 am »
http://www.schwinnbikes.com/bikes/hybrid/world-tour#/specs
The World Tour shown on the Schwinn website looks like a good touring bike.  $1069 price.  24 speed.  Tiagra and Sora and FSA drivetrain.  Eyelets, fenders.  Steel frame and fork.  You can easily change the inner chainring to a 24 tooth for proper low gears.  Seems to have a threaded headset and quill stem.  Very odd today.  It would not frighten me to take this bike on a tour.

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10052&langId=-1&catalogId=10551&productId=1072929&cm_mmc=$(referrer)$-_-Bikes/Frames-_-SCHWINN-_-30-1415&CSE=GooglePS&mr:trackingCode=6618BC46-A681-DE11-B7F3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA
Performance Bike has the bike for $500 before 10-20% discounts.  If you take a small frame.

The Performance bike is a great buy if it fits.  The retail price of $1069 is not exactly a bargain.  I think there are several options at this price point.  Some may be better specced.

212
General Discussion / Re: Surly Cross Check Touring Bike?
« on: November 05, 2010, 11:44:45 am »
26" tires are not slower.  26" tires are available in every width from 1" to 2+".  26" tires in  many widths are stocked by every bike shop so you can always find them while touring.  Mail order of course has every width available.

http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/race/recetyres/ultra_gatorskin/ultragatorskin_en.html
Continental Ultra Gatorskin available in 559mmx28mm.  26" is 559mm.

213
General Discussion / Re: Pulling a BOB Trailer with Carbon Bike
« on: November 01, 2010, 02:45:42 pm »
Next summer I plan on riding the Sierra Cascade route north to south. Im thinking of using my carbon road bike and pull a BOB trailer. Ive read articles both positive and negative about using a carbon bike to pull BOB but was hoping to get feedback from actual people that have used this combo.

This summer a friend's kid used a TREK 5500 carbon bike to pull a BOB out to the start of RAGBRAI.  About 200 miles for the trip.  Worked fine.  He used the Bontrager "race" wheels without issue.

214
General Discussion / Re: Bike Fit Where LBS Doesn't Have My Size In Stock
« on: October 29, 2010, 02:17:16 pm »
Neil from Brookline, MA
*I had a professional fitting performed & retain the measurements of the fitter. I am 5'10". The fitter recommends I use a top tube with a length of 55.
**The T1/T2 top tubes are 22/55.9 in length.

I had to go to the 2009 Cannondale archive to find the specs for the Touring bikes.  Do they make 2010 Touring bikes?  The top tube is 55.9cm horizontal.  This is the same size as the current CAAD8 and CAAD10 56cm size frames.  So ride one of them in 56cm and you will have about the same size bike as the Touring size Large.  Seat tube angle is 73.5 on the CAAD and 73 on the Touring.  Close enough.  Head angle is different but that just affects steering, not reach.

Personally I think the size Large or 56cm CAAD with a 56cm top tube is the right size for you.  The fitter's recommendation of 55cm top tube is short for a 5'10" man.  If you are normal proportions of trunk, arms, legs, the 56cm top tube is the right size for you.  I am 5'11" and use 57 or 57.5cm top tubes and 12cm stems.  Lance Armstrong is 5'10" and used a 58cm Trek with a 57cm top tube and 11cm stem.  Granted you are not Lance, but a good fit is fairly uniform.  You should be able to ride another 5'10" person's frame in comfort.  With a few minor changes such as 1-2cm different stem, 1-2cm more or less stem spacers, 1-2cm saddle forward or back on the rails, saddle up or down 1-2cm.  All minor changes easily made that don't affect the handling of the bike.  All assuming you have normal body proportions for a 5'10" person.  If you have a 36" inseam or 24" inseam, and 5'10", then things are different.

Hi Russ,
Thanks for the feedback. Your advice about comparable frames is very helpful. My legs are a bit short & my arms are a bit long.
Best,
Neil

If you have short legs and are 5'10", then you probably have a longer torso.  If so then the 56cm top tube length of the size Large touring bike or CAAD 56 frame seems better for you than the fitter recommended 55cm top tube length.  You need a longer top tube if your torso is longer.

215
Gear Talk / Re: Thoughts on 2011 Salsa Fargo Complete bike build?
« on: October 27, 2010, 01:26:54 pm »
And the complete bike builds are now with SRAM 10-speed APEX with 27/40T front and 12-36T rear.

40x12 at 100 rpm will get you 28.7mph.  Unless you are going down hill you likely won't be going that fast.  And if going down hill, rest and coast.  The 27x36 low gear is 21.8 gear inches.  Very low.  Apex also comes in a 11-32 cassette.  So you could probably have the shop you buy the bike from make the change for you.  High gear of 40x11 gets you 31.4mph at 100 rpm.  Low gear goes to 24.5 gear inches.  Still very low.

The website says the crankset is FSA Comet.  But when I looked on the FSA site all I saw was a mountian bike triple for Comet.  In 42-32-22 with 104/64mm bcd.  So not sure what the Fargo uses for a crankset.  If its the FSA Comet then they only use the middle and inner positions.  So you could put a 44 or 42 ring in the 104mm bcd spot instead of the 40 ring.  That would get you quite a bit higher gearing.

216
General Discussion / Re: Bike Fit Where LBS Doesn't Have My Size In Stock
« on: October 27, 2010, 12:48:17 pm »
Neil from Brookline, MA
*I had a professional fitting performed & retain the measurements of the fitter. I am 5'10". The fitter recommends I use a top tube with a length of 55.
**The T1/T2 top tubes are 22/55.9 in length.

I had to go to the 2009 Cannondale archive to find the specs for the Touring bikes.  Do they make 2010 Touring bikes?  The top tube is 55.9cm horizontal.  This is the same size as the current CAAD8 and CAAD10 56cm size frames.  So ride one of them in 56cm and you will have about the same size bike as the Touring size Large.  Seat tube angle is 73.5 on the CAAD and 73 on the Touring.  Close enough.  Head angle is different but that just affects steering, not reach.

Personally I think the size Large or 56cm CAAD with a 56cm top tube is the right size for you.  The fitter's recommendation of 55cm top tube is short for a 5'10" man.  If you are normal proportions of trunk, arms, legs, the 56cm top tube is the right size for you.  I am 5'11" and use 57 or 57.5cm top tubes and 12cm stems.  Lance Armstrong is 5'10" and used a 58cm Trek with a 57cm top tube and 11cm stem.  Granted you are not Lance, but a good fit is fairly uniform.  You should be able to ride another 5'10" person's frame in comfort.  With a few minor changes such as 1-2cm different stem, 1-2cm more or less stem spacers, 1-2cm saddle forward or back on the rails, saddle up or down 1-2cm.  All minor changes easily made that don't affect the handling of the bike.  All assuming you have normal body proportions for a 5'10" person.  If you have a 36" inseam or 24" inseam, and 5'10", then things are different.

217
Routes / Re: Help required for current trans america-rockies or not?
« on: September 17, 2010, 02:55:29 pm »
Its apparent some people have never ridden in the Rockies.  You can get snow/rain all year long.  But it only snows at higher elevations in the spring/summer/fall seasons.  Tops of the passes.  So when climbing the mountain you will only have snow the last 3-4 miles to the top.  And only the first 3-4 miles down the other side.  Then you will be out of the snow and headed to the warm town in the valley.  That last 3-4 miles will only take you 1 hour at most to climb.  And 15 minutes to descend.  And on the upward portion you are generating lots of body heat so you will not get cold.  No need for coats and jackets while climbing.  Coats, jackets, balaclava, gloves, tights are a nice luxury.  But you can easily make it without them.  Gloves and a balaclava and a plastic garbage bag would be nice to have along.  And they take up very little space.

218
Routes / Re: Help required for current trans america-rockies or not?
« on: September 13, 2010, 07:52:08 pm »
I went through Ouray, Silverton, Durango in early September about 12 years ago.  It was in the 40s-50s on the passes along this route.  And rainy.  Particularly Silverton which is at a higher elevation than the other two towns.  I also had snow in early July on Loveland Pass.  The weather can be really bad at any time of year in Colorado.  But, its only bad at higher elevations.  And you are only at the higher elevations for an hour at most.  Personally I would not be too concerned about the weather in Colorado in September.  It may be bad, but it won't harm you.

219
Gear Talk / Re: Question about Trek 520 on ebay
« on: November 12, 2009, 01:07:04 pm »
As the picture shows, its a tiny Trek 520.  I do believe the tiny frames had sloping top tubes way back when.  And do today as well.  The Trek archives do not show each frame size so just because the 2005 model shown on the trek site is not sloping, does not mean the tiny size was not sloping.  All Trek 520 frames have downtube shift bosses.  Even 2009 models.

This is the 2009 or 2010 model.  Its sloping.  I suspect Trek made all of the 520 sizes sloping recently.  Whereas a year or two ago only the tiny size was.
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/520/520/

220
I have the Shimano DH-3N71 or something like that generator hub from a few years ago.  I think they have a newer version now.  I've used it many miles.  Never noticed any extra drag.  Provides electricity to my Schmidt E6 lights.  No grounding shock or such nonsense.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/lighting/shimano.html

221
General Discussion / Re: Cycling in Snow
« on: October 12, 2009, 07:19:57 am »
It's dangerous to cycle in snow but
some does it. So how do you cycle in snow?

http://www.schwalbetires.com/marathon_winter

Schwalbe Marathon Winter.  Carbide studs.  700x35 and 700x40.  As well as a few 26" sizes.  You still have to pay attention to what you are doing on ice.  You can still slip and slide with studded tires.  Deep thick snow does not work too well.  Snow that has been run over by cars and formed into ruts does not work too well.

222
General Discussion / Re: Newbie with a really dumb question
« on: October 09, 2009, 09:28:24 am »
A set of normal wheels would probably be best.  Besides probably being stronger than low spoke wheels, its also easier to replace spokes if one should break while touring.  You can carry spare spokes or any bike shop will have spokes available.  Low spoke count wheels use poprietary spokes and may not be in stock at a bike shop.

Your Pilot bike will not be able to use very wide tires.  Likely 28mm is the widest.  Anything wider won't fit the fork, brake calipers, or rear chainstays.  28mm with a trailer is likely good enough.

223
Gear Talk / Re: Advice for new member
« on: October 01, 2009, 06:08:19 am »
Quote
650B tires are an extreme niche tire.

650Bs are promoted because they are rare.  If they can sell you on the idea, they can sell you tires forever.

The BIG problem with using 650B tires on a tour is there are very, very, very few "they"s out there in the world.  A few internet sites and a few bike shops in the country sell them.  Thats it.  Using a tire you can't find doesn't seem like a good idea to me.

224
Gear Talk / Re: Advice for new member
« on: September 23, 2009, 12:12:10 pm »
As far as the wheel and tire, I am almost certain I am moving to a 650B wheel and tire combo.

Why not just see if your bike will handle 700x32 or 700x35 tires?  I suspect it will.  Your bike is a hybrid bike, they almost always can handle tires wider than 28mm.  650B tires are an extreme niche tire.  You may be lucky to find them in big bike stores in very large cities.  You will not find them in most bike stores.  I would never tour on a tire I had no hope of finding anywhere.  Replacing tires on a long tour is fairly common.

225
Gear Talk / Re: Advice for new member
« on: September 22, 2009, 11:13:28 am »
Your bike will most likely work just fine setup as it is with 700C wheels.  700C is common enough in the US that finding a replacement tire is not difficult.  28mm tires are none too wide.  32mm or 35mm might be nicer if the bike can handle them.  But 28mm will work.  If you can comfortably ride 60-80 miles now with the flat handlebar, then stick with it.  Its prohibitively expensive to change to a drop bar due to replacing the shifters.  Hydraulic brakes aren't my first choice.  But if they work reliably riding around home, they'll likely work fine on a tour too.  Racks are required for panniers.  I prefer low riders in front and the normal rear rack.  You should be able to clamp low riders onto your fork if it does not have a hole in it for the low rider bolt.  Fenders are very nice but not required.  Get your bike setup, load it up, and go ride around home to see how it works.  Should be OK.

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