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Messages - RussSeaton

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271
General Discussion / Re: Light Touring
« on: October 05, 2011, 08:27:52 pm »
Carradice is the name of the saddlebags in whittierider's pictures.  Jobst Brandt has toured many miles using one of those bags for his credit card type tours.  You could also use a seatpost clamp on rack and a large bag on top of the rack as your baggage carrying device.  I have a rack bag similar to the one below where the side pockets unzip into small side panniers.  Quite roomy.

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Panniers-and-Bar-Bags-Altura-Arran-Transit-Drop-Down-Rack-Pack-Black/ALTUBAGP280000000000

Key to credit card touring is to go ultralight.  2 pair shorts, 1 jersey, bike sandals so you don't need any other shoes, 1 t-shirt, 1 off bike shorts, tooth brush, tooth paste, comb.  Maybe sunscreen and lip balm.  Small digital camera.  Not much else.

272
Gear Talk / Re: 26 inch wheels and tires
« on: September 26, 2011, 01:45:20 pm »
The frustrating thing is Surly only supplies the trucker deluxe in 26" wheels arguing that the tires are more readily available.

It just got a little frustrated that Surly only makes the Trucker deluxe in 26" wheels arguing that tires are more readily available,

Surly has a little bit of truth in their statement.  26" tires are more readily available all over the world.  Asia, Africa, etc. adopted the 26" tire standard instead of the European 700C standard.  In Europe the mountain bike is big too so 26" tires are readily available.  In North America you can find 26" tires everywhere too.  Check Wal-Mart and you will find 26" tires.  Maybe not 700C.  Now, I am not saying you will find 26" tires in the width or tread you want.  Most likely you will find 26"x2.25" knobby mountain bike tires.  But they are 26" and will fit on your rims, but maybe not your frame due to fork clearance and chainstay clearance issues.  So the key is to make sure your bike has clearance for wide knobby tires.  Then you can fit a tire about anywhere in the world and ride.  Replace with a better tire up the road.

273
Gear Talk / Re: stemcaptain compass
« on: September 14, 2011, 01:24:47 pm »
More than likely this compass will operate more than well enough even if surrounded by steel.  Consider the purpose of the stem mounted compass.  You are not navigating the Spanish Armada from Spain to Mexico and back with plundered gold.  The purpose of the compass is when you come to a 4-way intersection, you will know which direction is North, South, East, West.  Then you can look at your map, or think about what today's general riding direction is, and pick the right road that will take you in the direction you want to go.  I have compasses on a couple bikes.  Touring bike has a flat plastic compass that rides in the map case on top of the handlebar bag.  Its great for helping to follow a map.  One road bike has a compass that snaps around the stem.  It gives good enough direction to tell which general direction I am riding.  And that is good enough since I usually know which general direction I want to ride.  And the compass can help pick out the road going in the right general direction.

274
Gear Talk / Re: 10 speed vs 9 speed for touring
« on: August 24, 2011, 03:17:35 pm »
SRAM and Shimano both make 10 speed mountain bike cassettes now.  I use the SRAM 1050 model in 11-32 on my touring bike.  11-36, 11-32, 12-32 are available from SRAM.  Shimano offers 11-36, 11-34, 11-32.  No reason to take a chance on IRD poor quality.

Regarding using a 10 speed cassette for touring.  I rebuilt my touring bike with 10 speed STI Shimano 105 5700 shifters and the SRAM 10 speed 1050 cassette recently.  Used to be 7 speed bar end.  After replacing the cassette body on the hub so it would take 10 speed cassette, it worked fine.  Shifts are quick and sure.  Using a Tiagra 9 speed front derailleur.  Shimano 105 10 speed chain.  44-33-20 chainrings.  Not a lot of miles on the setup.  160 loaded miles.  250 unloaded miles.  Went with 10 speed because Shimano's new 10 speed shifters have the cables under the bar tape.  Older STI has the cables flapping in the wind in front of the bars.  Cannot use a handlebar bag with those cables sticking out.

275
Not sure what gearing you have on your bike.  But, you will need low gears to get up and down Highway 1 and 101.  A triple with a 24 tooth inner chainring and a rear cog of 32 would be ideal.  Barring that, a compact crank with a 34 inner ring and a 32 rear cog would be the minimum.

276
Gear Talk / Re: Front rack
« on: August 10, 2011, 04:24:14 pm »
Can I add a rack question? my old cannondale mt. bike only has the eyelets at the dropout in front with no braze ons up the fork for securing the rack. I know it had a front rack back in 86 but cannot remember how it was set up. Anyone know of a rack for this type of front fork? thanks.

http://www.blackburndesign.com/rack_fl1_standar_new.html
As you can see from this picture, the Blackburn lowrider rack comes with the hardware for clamping the rack to a fork without the braze on in the middle of the fork leg.  U clamp would be a better description of what is needed.

This one is a bit big, but its the style you want.
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Hooks-Racks/h_d1/N-5yc1vZaq9j/R-202183426/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

277
Gear Talk / Re: Front rack
« on: August 03, 2011, 10:41:57 pm »
Based on pictures I found online, it looks like the T800 has a regular steel touring fork.  Braze ons in the middle of the fork for the racks.  Eyelet down at the dropout for the racks.  So it will take any and all low rider racks.  I use an aluminum Nashbar low rider.  Works fine.  No longer offered.  Its similar to the Blackburn.

http://www.blackburndesign.com/rack_fl1_standar_new.html

278
Gear Talk / Re: Novara Randonee Bike - 2011???
« on: August 02, 2011, 01:18:29 am »
It's to bad Novarro changing the specs and "commuterizing" their bikes. I'm curious about where the Gunnar Grand Tour fits in all of this. I hear a lot about the LHT and it seems to be a really solid bike; what about the Gunnar?

The Gunnar Grand Tour is almost certainly a very nice steel touring frame.  I have a Waterford 1200.  Waterford also makes a touring bike and I suspect the dimensions are similar between the Waterford and Gunnar touring frames.  Made by the same people making the Gunnar frames.  In Wisconsin.  Gunnar frames are TIG welded instead of lugs.  Frame/fork price is $1025.  So compared to the Surly LHT or Trek 520 or some of the other bikes mentioned in this thread, its frame/fork costs about the same as the complete bike for the others.  Of course they are made in different continents.  Over the years I have succumbed to the lure of cheap Asian frames instead of American frames.  So I'm kind of torn whether one should spend the extra money for American/European frames or go the cheap route with Asian bikes.

279
Routes / Re: January routes abroad
« on: July 27, 2011, 01:54:59 pm »
I toured southern Portugal and a bit of southern Spain in November years ago.  Warm weather.  November isn't January.  But I suspect the weather would still be comfortable for bicycling in January too.  Cooler than November would still be nice.

280
Routes / Re: Lincoln,Ne heading east through Iowa
« on: July 16, 2011, 01:26:38 pm »
Actually I'm heading towards Pittsburgh,Pa.........so any advice or recommended routes would be much appreciated. I'm kind of stuttering in an eastward direction taking in local advice as I go.
Currently at Knoxville,Ia.

Not sure why you rode Hwy 92 since several people in this forum, including me, recommended NOT riding 92.

Anyway, head north out of Knoxville on Hwy 14.  Go north to Monroe, go north of Monroe about 3 miles.  14 is a bit busy and hilly.  You will find county road F62 going east to Reasnor and Montezuma.  Stay on that road to Iowa City.  It changes from F62 to F57, Hwy 85, F52.  But its the same road.  You will hit Sully, Lynnville, Searsboro, Montezuma, Deep River, Millersburg, Parnell, Holbrook, then go south to Frytown.  There will be a road north to Cosgrove and a road south to Frytown.  Go south.  In Frytown get on F62 again and go east to Hills, West Liberty, Atalissa, Moscow, Wilton, Durant, Stockton, Walcott and finally the Quad Cities (Bettendorf and Davenport on the Iowa side of the river).  There are some hills on this route.  Parts of Iowa are flat, part are not.

281
Routes / Re: Lincoln,Ne heading east through Iowa
« on: July 12, 2011, 06:01:05 pm »
Hwy 92 across Iowa is not a bike friendly road.  34 and 30 are not good either.  As mentioned, Hwy 6 is not too bad.  I've ridden it between Iowa City and Des Moines.  Hwy 2 is not bad either.  Its a main road, but it does not have lots of traffic.  Hills on 2 are not bad.  I've ridden it from Leon to Farmington.  Getting to 2 from Lincoln will mean heading south quite a ways.  But if coming out in the middle of Illinois is OK, then you might as well head south at the beginning.  There are lots and lots of county roads in Iowa.  A free map from the state will show them.  Iowa has a bicycling specific map.  You could easily piece together a good route using county roads from the Missouri to the Mississippii.

Here is the bicycle map for Iowa.
http://www.iowadot.gov/iowabikes/bikemap.aspx

282
Gear Talk / Re: Kona Jake vs Trek 520
« on: June 30, 2011, 06:53:40 pm »
The Jake the Snake cyclocross bike is a low end American cyclocross bike.  So it does not have European racing cyclocross geometry.  It has touring bike geometry.  Its not quick handling.  Frame geometry wise it would work fine as a touring bike.  But the fork probably does not allow braze on low rider racks.  If its an aluminum fork you can probably clamp a low rider rack onto it.  It will probably have one eyelet at the fork tips.  Rear should be able to accomodate a rack and has eyelets.  Big problem will probably be the crankset.  If it does not come with a triple crankset, then you will have to install one.  And then you may have problems with the left STI shifter being a double and not working with a triple.  And you will probably need a bigger cassette than comes standard with the Jake Snake bike.  And new chain for the bigger cogs.  By the time you convert the Jake Snake bike over to a capable touring bike, you are pretty close to what the Trek 520 costs.  If you pull a trailer you will still need the triple crankset, maybe new shifter, cassette, and chain.

283
Gear Talk / Re: Ipad, Tablets vs. Netbooks
« on: June 30, 2011, 06:40:40 pm »
When riding with the Shimano 72 or the 80, did you notice any drag? Also thanks for the resource, Starbike.

No.  I have used the 70 Shimano generator hub on several 1200k and 1000k brevets and many shorter ones.  I never noticed any drag whether the light is on or off.

284
Rear Derailleur Chorus Ultegra 6500, long cage
Shifters Chorus Ultegra 6500
Brakes Chorus Ultegra 6500
Seatpost Chorus Ritchey
Hubs Chorus Ultegra 6500

I'm guessing the other person thinks fraud because the above descriptions make no sense.  Chorus is a Campagnolo group.  Ultegra is Shimano group.  You cannot have a Chorus Ultegra rear derailleur, shifters, or hubs.  As for the seatpost, you can't have a Chorus Ritchey seatpost either.  Campagnolo and Ritchey are two separate companies.  The person who wrote this advertisement is clueless about bike parts.  I would not trust anything about this bike.  Someone may be selling a mythical bike and just grabbed words off the internet they thought would appeal to a broad range of people.  Not realizing the names they combined made the description nonsensical.

285
Gear Talk / Re: Classic Randonneur Build
« on: June 17, 2011, 02:09:17 pm »
This approach has a couple of problems.  First, if you narrow the hub, the axle will probably stick out past the dropout faces and the qr skewer will not tighten properly.  You will have to shorten the axle by the amount of the spacer you remove.  Second, narrowing the hub will require redishing the rim and will increase tha amount of dish.

If the frame has 126 mm dropouts and you want to use a 130 mm hub, just squeeze it in or cold set the frame.  If the frame has 120 mm dropouts, find another bike to use.

I've converted a 135mm Deore hub down to 130mm spacing.  Took out a few washers.  Redished the wheel.  Easy to do.  Wheel isn't enough weaker to worry about.  The dropouts on my frame were more than wide enough to take up the extra axle sticking out.  You have to be careful when putting the hub back together to get the right amount of axle sticking out each side.  But the axle easily fit in the dropouts.

I'd agree if its 126mm, you can probably make it work.  If its 120, get another frame.

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