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Messages - RussSeaton

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Gear Talk / Re: Rohloff Speedhub
« on: February 17, 2017, 02:23:19 pm »
Currently I've a Surly LHT. My current triple ring gearing range extends approx. from 18 gear-inches to 109 gear-inches. I do need the 18 - 19 range for climbing loaded but I do run out of top end gearing on a regular basis.

Why don't you tell us what your current gearing is?  Chainring teeth and cassette range and number of cogs.  Then in addition to giving opinions about the Rohloff hub, someone might be able to tell you what to change on your current gearing to get what you want. 

Gear Talk / Re: Newbie Needs Advice
« on: February 16, 2017, 05:17:24 pm »
The only change I would consider is a fitting smaller 24t inner chainring.
If you  are going to go to the trouble of swapping out the inner chainring why not go ahead and do 22t?

Above links show the crankset from Shimano on this bike.  It has 64mm bcd for the inner ring.  So a 22 tooth will fit.

Gear Talk / Re: Sources for Ultra Violent Protective Clothing
« on: February 16, 2017, 05:01:10 pm »
Don't know if its possible or not to change the TITLE of your post.  But if possible, please change the TITLE to "Ultra Violet".  Not ultra VIOLENT.

Gear Talk / Re: Newbie Needs Advice
« on: February 16, 2017, 02:06:05 pm »
I have never heard of weight restrictions on a bike except for ultra light racing bikes.  A touring bike with a weight limit?  Wow.  The website said this:

"Please note: gear load recommended not to exceed 250 lbs."

I'm not sure how to interpret that statement.  Does it mean all of the luggage and equipment must not exceed 250 pounds?  Gear load means the gear on the bike, right?  Or is the rider weight included in the 250 pound limit?  Is the rider part of the gear?  Never thought of a rider as being part of the gear.  As already stated, I would not worry too much about this weight limitation.  Don't go crazy and pile 100 pounds of cement blocks onto the bike.  But anything less than that plus the rider is fine.  The bike is not going to break or fall apart unless you deliberately smash it with a sledge hammer.

Maybe touring bikes need a weight rating like trucks have.  GCVWR.  Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating.  Or something like that.  It includes the whole vehicle.  Every option.  Full tank of gas.  Full tank of windshield wiper fluid.  Driver.  Passenger.  Their clothes, shoes, and luggage too.  The 99 ounce big gulp they got at Quik Trip.  And the 32oz bag of chips.  And the spare tire and jack and 3 quarts of oil under the seat.

Gear Talk / Re: How to know tire size
« on: February 15, 2017, 06:23:57 pm »
You have 700C by 32mm tires on the bike now.  Get some calipers and measure the width of the tire inflated.  Just to see if it is close to 32mm.  And get a tape measure and put it down by the bottom bracket and measure how much room you have on either side of the tire.  That will give you an idea if 35 or 38 tires will fit.  But as stated, the only sure way to know is to buy some tires and mount them on the bike.  Then look at the chainstays to see if they clear.

Gear Talk / Re: Ultra light sleeping bag, tent and pad?
« on: February 14, 2017, 02:25:36 pm »
The sheer volume of that form of pad would be discouraging to me. How are you going to carry it?

Yes its a large volume.  But weightless.  Strap it on top of your rear rack and it is fine.  You can pile stuff three feet tall on top of the rear rack and it is fine.  Your body blocks any wind from hitting it and slowing you down.


I've been to southern California several times in my life.  Not as steep as San Francisco but there are hills.  A low gear is good to have.  Your housing situation is not too relevant to a discussion about bike touring.  100 pounds is far more weight than any normal person carries on a bike.  I'd suggest cutting that weight in half.

I started with 26x38x48t in 2008 and gone to 24x34x46t and in 2013 I gone with 24x32x42t for Southern California rolling hills and the I added 22t

Other than the slightly high 26 tooth inner ring on your first crankset, all of these choices are fine and dandy for loaded touring anywhere in the world.  I rode the Dolomites, Alps, Rockies with a 24 ring and 32 cog.  So it is a fine low gear for a loaded touring bike.  22 is a little nicer, but not earth shattering.  All the cranks you had or have are fine.  Leave your cranks alone and work on some other part of your bike.

I am using 11-34t cassette 9 speed and I am also using Shimano XT M771 Traditional Dual Pull FD and Derailleur Capacity: 22 so 42-22=20 and 40-22=18 and I am staying with 22-32-42t

If you have 42-32-22 crank, and are staying with it.  Why did you ask about the 40-30-22 crank?

You have a 42-32-22 crank now.  You are looking at a 40-30-22 crank.  Other than reducing your high gear by a few gear inches, what would you gain with the change?  I'll assume you are using a 9 speed cassette with 11-32 or 11-34 now.  42x11 high is a fine high gear for a loaded touring bike.  Not too high, not too low.  You would actually use it some.  A 40x11 high gear may not be quite high enough for me.  But others might find it fine.  A 42x12 is probably equal to a 40x11 so you aren't really changing anything.  With 40-30 rings instead of 42-32 rings, you would use the smaller cogs a bit more.  But with a 9 speed cassette, you have enough cogs to use with any chainring size.  Again, what does this new crankset really get you?  Why are you doing it?

Gear Talk / Re: Ultra light sleeping bag, tent and pad?
« on: February 03, 2017, 01:52:26 pm »
RussSeaton, What's the name of your bag so i can research it? My older down bag weighs 3.14 (rated @ -10).

My one pound 800 down bag is made by Vaude.  I bought it from Sierra Trading on a super duper closeout sale with an extra coupon code sale.  I paid $100 or less.  Its rated for 40-45-50 degrees or so.  Great for summer.  In the winter (25 degrees) I put it inside a 20 degree synthetic bag.

General Discussion / Re: Training program recommendations
« on: February 03, 2017, 01:44:35 pm »
I'm planning to ride the Northern Tier, west to east, starting in late May/early June of this year.  I currently ride around 130 mi/week.  Can anyone recommend a 4 month training program to get me into shape for 350-400 miles per week?  I will be riding a relatively light bike, with sag support for my gear.  Any advice appreciated.

Training for bicycling?  Bicycling provides its own training.  The more you do, the better you get.  In your last four months, lose as much weight as you possibly can.  Off your body.  Get fit!  Get healthy!  400 miles a week is an easy 60 miles per day.  You can ride that starting at 3-4 PM and have an easy evening bike ride.  Or start early in the morning and be done by mid morning.

Gear Talk / Re: Ultra light sleeping bag, tent and pad?
« on: February 01, 2017, 03:19:39 pm »
Has anybody heard/know anything of "Hyke & Byke" down bags? They have one rated at 32 degrees weighing at 2.2lb. for $99.00.
I'm replacing my current bag which is a down bag made by Feathered Friends rated at -10 degrees weighs in at 3.14 lb.

2.2 pounds is not a light down bag.  32 degrees for summer camping?  That probably makes sense in upper Canada for summer.  I have a down bag rated at about 45 degrees.  It weighs one pound.  Perfect for summer.  If it got cold, I could put on a balaclava and tights and long sleeve jersey and jacket and wool socks.  Assuming I even bother to carry those cold weather items in summer.  I also doubt a real down bag rated at 32 degrees will be $99.  Down bags are not that cheap unless you get real lucky and catch a super close out sale.

Gear Talk / Re: Reflective Clothing; Jackets/Jerseys Etc (Warm Weather)
« on: January 31, 2017, 08:28:43 pm »
My only preference is that I prefer reflective gear that I can remove    but because I've had thugs try to grab my bike before as I rode past during a late night commute, and there's been times when I've heard what sounded like gun shots nearby.

Not sure how having removable high visibility clothing would help.  If the thugs trying to steal your bike see you with the high vis clothing, removing the clothing is not going to make you instantly invisible.  They will still know where you are at unless they are 100 yards away.  And if they are 100 yards away, then you really aren't in much danger.  And if you stop to take off the clothing, the thugs would catch up to you.  With the gun shots it does make sense to be less visible with removable clothing.  Assume the gun shots are not right next to you but are a ways away.  If the gun shots are right beside you, then trying to become invisible by removing the clothing probably is useless.

Gear Talk / Re: Reflective Clothing; Jackets/Jerseys Etc (Warm Weather)
« on: January 30, 2017, 06:21:34 pm »
I like the vest shown below.  Yellow with reflective stripes.  Mesh.  Great for visibility.  But as stated, lights are essential too for night riding.  The yellow vest helps in daytime because its very visible.  Unless you are huge, the S/M size is best.

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