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Messages - RussSeaton

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Gear Talk / Re: Front Panniers or Rear Duffel??
« on: July 11, 2016, 04:16:53 pm »
I'm a firm believer in front panniers.  Low rider front panniers.  On several trips I have ONLY used front panniers, no rear panniers at all.  Might have had something on top the rear rack.  But almost all the weight was in the front.  As already mentioned, with an unloaded bike about 70% of the weight is on the rear wheel.  Your body weight is almost all on the rear wheel.  It helps for control and stability to shift as much weight as possible to the front wheel.  Lower front panniers help lots too.  Look where your rear panniers are located.  Low, right above the rear axle.  Do you think its just coincidence and luck they ended up there?  Rear racks could easily be made a foot taller and get the weight up to saddle height.  But they don't because getting the weight low is better.

For bike touring I recommend bicycle sandals.  And use SPD cleats on the bottom.  Shimano makes sandals.  Other companies also make them.

General Discussion / Re: Colorado: bike maps?
« on: July 08, 2016, 02:52:01 pm »
Sounds like you are looking for gravel roads.  I cannot really help you with that.  But Colorado only has a limited amount of roads.  Due to the mountains.  Any state map will have all the paved roads on it.  All of them because there aren't many paved roads.  Maybe that Google thing will show the few gravel roads.  But Colorado does not have many roads.  There aren't many towns in Colorado.  There aren't many farms in Colorado.  There aren't many people living in the rural parts of Colorado.  Most states have rural and urban people.  And roads to connect all the rural people with the urban towns.  But Colorado has a few urban areas and roads connecting the few urban areas.  And that's it.  There are not many or any farms in Colorado.  No people living in the rural areas.  So no roads in the rural areas.  In my state we have farms everywhere.  And gravel roads connecting all these farms.  And the gravel roads all lead back to paved roads connecting all the small towns everywhere.  Colorado does not have that.  So not many gravel roads for you to ride.

Gear Talk / Re: Surly ECR for Sierra Cascades or Atlantic route
« on: July 07, 2016, 03:33:59 pm »
Not a bike I would ever want to ride.  But it does take 700C wheels.  Not sure the rims can handle normal sized 700C touring tires or not.  But if they can, then its easy to change the tires out to 700x35mm touring tires.  Then the bike should be somewhat OK on paved roads.

General Discussion / Re: Do you pack a Spare Tire???
« on: July 07, 2016, 03:27:13 pm »
My Spare Tire Schwalbe marathon mondial DD tire is 740g =1.64lbs and my Acer Chromebook 11.6in is 3.3lbs and I am packing my Acer Chromebook on my bike touring trips in California to upload Pics from my camera to my Facebook blog

Your spare tire is way too heavy.  Just carry a spare that will serve its purpose.  Put it on in an emergency and ride it for a few days or so until you come to a bike shop and can buy a new heavy duty touring tire.  Then put the spare back in your bag as your spare tire.  You can easily find a suitable spare that will be 300 grams or maybe less.  You are carrying one extra pound needlessly.

I have seen in computer stores smaller, lighter computers, tablets, notepads, etc..  Few inches less in size, and several pounds less in weight.  They would work just as well as the very large, heavy thing you are carrying.  I'd suggest you get a bit smarter and carry less extraneous weight.  And if by chance you use public sources of internet access, it might take an extra week or so to find one maybe.  I doubt anyone on your Facebook will give a dam that your information is a week late.  Believe it or not, not everyone cares about being instantly in touch with the whole world.  If everyone only heard from you once a week or once a month, they would all be happy with that.  Hearing about you every minute of the day is not necessary.

Gear Talk / Re: Crankset Options
« on: July 04, 2016, 11:51:16 pm »
Not sure why downtube shifters and cranksets are related in anyway at all.  Cranksets don't care how they are shifted.  Downtube shifters, bar end shifters, STI, Ergo, SRAM's shifter.  Friction or indexed.  Crank doesn't care.  I am not sure how modern new downtube shifters work.  For the front derailleur anyway.  Is the front derailleur shifter indexed with distinct clicks, stops.  Or is the front derailleur shifter friction/ratchet based.  This will affect whether your current front derailleur shifter can handle a triple or double crankset.  If there are distinct stops, clicks, then its likely your downtube shifters are for double cranksets only.  So your crank will have to be a double crankset.  If the front derailleur shifter is indexed, clicks, stops, then you can't really stop in the middle.  It won't click in the middle and will tend to want to go up or down.  Nothing to hold it in the middle of the stroke.  Now if your current downtube Dura Ace shifters work with friction, ratchets, on the front derailleur, then you are good to go.  Push the lever all the way forward and you are in the smallest ring, no matter if its double or triple.  And if you pull the lever all the way down, then you are in the big ring.  Double or triple, does not make any difference.  And if you put the lever in the middle, then you will be in the middle of the crankset.  Middle ring if its a triple crank.  Or making lots of noise from friction if its a double.  Kind of halfway between both rings on a double.

If your question is about what crankset to use.  Get one with as small a inner chainring as possible.  If triple crank, then make sure the inner ring is 24 teeth if its a 74mm bolt circle diameter crank.  Or 22 teeth if its a mountain bike triple with 64mm bcd.  You can also use mountain bike cranksets with only two rings.  Mountain bike double crankset.  You can get a 22 tooth inner ring on those cranks.  For high gear, that is never a problem.  You only use the highest gear when going down a mountain with a tailwind.  Now days many cassettes have 11 tooth small cog.  So a 40 or 42 or 44 chainring gets you a 4 to 1 ratio or close to it.  That is close to a 50x12 or 52x13 or 53x13 high gear on a road bike.  How often do you use the highest gear on a road bike?  Rarely.  Unless you are going down a mountain with a tailwind.  Only professional cyclists have enough leg strength to use high gears.  Just use whatever big chainring the crank comes with.  You will spend about 95% of the time in the middle gears, 4% in the low gears, and 1% in the high gears.  Don't worry about the high gears.

Will XT parts work with Dura Ace?  Yes.  Crankset and chainrings and cassette cogs don't care.  Shifters and rear derailleur, maybe the front, kind of care somewhat.  And try to match up the front derailleur with the crank.  Triple front derailleur with triple crank.  Double front derailleur with double crank.  You can get away with mixing them, but its best to match them.

Routes / Re: Wintertime Pacific coast OR Sierra C?
« on: July 02, 2016, 08:31:53 pm »
The Sierra Cascades are a mountain range.  They get snow and ice in the winter.  Maybe not as much as the Rockies or Alps.  But they do get snow.  And its below 32 Fahrenheit, Freezing, in the winter.  Otherwise the snow melts to water.  I don't believe the Cascades are awful horrible during the winter.  But they are mountains.  Either side of the Cascades, the Pacific Coast, or Napa Valley/Central Valley are fine in winter, sort of.  They are OK and rideable I suppose.  But not super duper pleasant in the winter.  You could manage but might not be happy.

On the Pacific Coast, look into which direction the wind blows in the winter.  I know in summer the wind is out of the north along the coast.  Not sure if that is the prevailing direction in the winter too.  Check the prevailing wind direction on the coast in the winter.

General Discussion / Re: Do you pack a Spare Tire???
« on: July 01, 2016, 03:54:42 pm »
In the US I would not want the extra weight.

About 480 grams in a pound.  A regular foldable road tire weighs about 250 grams. So a bit over half pound.  During rides I stop at convenience stores and drink a huge soda.  Close to one pound of soda pop.  I should probably stop eating and drinking during, before, and after riding my bike.  Too much extra weight.

General Discussion / Re: Do you pack a Spare Tire???
« on: June 25, 2016, 08:48:41 pm »
On longer tours I will carry a spare 700C tire.  A lighter foldable model.  Not a heavy duty one like is on the bike.  On a couple tours I have needed the spare.  For short around home touring I will not carry a spare tire.

Gear Talk / Re: LHT 26" wheels
« on: June 20, 2016, 05:40:58 pm »
Any Shimano hubs should be fine.  And about any aluminum heavy duty rim should be fine.  Name brand or unknown brand, doubt it makes too much difference when building a heavy duty wheel.  You're not looking for high tech, super strong, lightest, thinnest, newest rims.  You are looking for basic, heavy duty, thick aluminum rims made out of the same aluminum that has been produced for 50 years.  I've had good luck with Alex brand rims.  Friend used a Velocity Dyad rim on a rear tandem recently.  48 spoke so its probably strong enough.  Had some Mavic Open Pro rims that cracked at the eyelets.  So I don't like Mavic rims.

General Discussion / Re: Pannier Discussion
« on: June 18, 2016, 05:01:21 pm »
most of the pannier is not plastic. They are typically a coated fabric.

I've been touring with the same Ortlieb panniers for over 20,000 miles,

Actually, most of the pannier IS plastic.  What do you think the cordura, polyethylene, polyester fabric is?  Its plastic.  If you wear tight Lycra shorts while riding a bike, you are wearing plastic.  Lycra is a combination of polyester and polyurethane.  Both plastics.  Cordura is a combination of nylon and other materials.  Nylon is a plastic.

You said you have Ortlieb panniers.  What do you think they are made of?  Plastic.  Here are a few quotes about the materials of Ortlieb panniers from Adventure Cycling.  "these panniers are made highly visible using a PU (polyurethane) laminated Cordura with interwoven reflective yarn" and "PVC coated polyester fabric" and "constructed from a waterproof polyester fabric".  I do not think its possible to get any more plastic into a pannier than Ortlieb does.

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: June 17, 2016, 04:26:06 pm »
It is not my damp shorts that I worry about.

You're worrying about the wrong thing.  Very common.  Most people worry about the wrong thing on almost everything.  You ride in the rain a few times a year for a few hours.  Saddle gets very wet.  For a few hours.  EVERY time you ride, your shorts get sweaty.  The sweat soaks into the chamois.  Your chamois sits on the saddle.  You rub the chamois into the leather saddle on every pedal stroke.  A few hours of rain compared to hundreds or thousands of hours of sweat.  Its all water either way.  Sweat puts more water into the saddle than rain ever can.

Another example.  I have various shorts and t-shirts.  All of them get soaked with sweat almost every day in the summer.  Due to sweat.  I rarely ever get rained on.  Yet I wear these shorts and t-shirts outside.  If moisture harmed these clothes, where should I worry?  Rare rain or daily sweat?

Another example.  Rain.  You mentioned rain.  But you were not too concerned about the rain falling from the sky.  You were concerned with the rain thrown up by the wheels.  As most people know, rain gets you wet after it falls out of the sky.  The initial fall does not really affect you.  Its all the bouncing around after it hits the ground that gets you soaked.  Some folks rant and rave about rain jackets.  But jackets don't do much to protect you from all the water on the ground.  And I use a saddle bag so no rain can get from the rear tire to the under side of my saddle.  Most folks I see riding have saddle bags.  They mount below the saddle and behind the seatpost.  So your concern with rooster tails is almost nonsense.  The rooster tail hits the saddle bag and never ever hits the under side of the saddle.

General Discussion / Re: Is this considered bikepacking?
« on: June 16, 2016, 04:12:02 pm »
Actually I think that's a subset of Bike Touring.  I'd call it "Credit Card Touring" since you aren't carrying a tent, sleeping gear or cooking gear.

Hmmm.  About 25 years ago when I did that in Europe I don't think I even had a credit card.  Paid cash for everything.  Was I "Cash Touring"?  And the real tourists who camp and cook, are they not allowed to use cash or credit cards at stores when buying supplies?  Do they have to barter for goods?

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: June 15, 2016, 11:31:03 pm »
You're not supposed to oil it at all. I endorse your idea to try a new B-17. Don't use anything except Proofide on it. Don't let it get too wet,

Proofide is oil.  It has emulsions and solids and waxes added to it to make it solid.  But its oil.  Thick oil.  I like Neatsfoot oil on Brooks saddles.  Or any oil designed for leather shoes.  As for letting it get too wet.  When you ride, you sweat.  The sweat builds up in the chamois.  The chamois rests on the saddle.  So you are soaking the saddle every time you ride.  And when pedaling you abrade the saddle and rub the wet shorts into the saddle.  You probably soak the saddle more on a long ride than you do leaving it out in the rain.

General Discussion / Re: Is this considered bikepacking?
« on: June 15, 2016, 11:18:13 pm »
When I did that I considered it bike touring.  But my touring was a bit different.  I went from hostel to hostel to inn to inn to hostel to inn to inn to inn, etc.  Also thrown in were stays at family, friends, and strangers I met on the road.  A great great great way to tour Europe.  LOT more costly to do inn to inn to inn to inn touring in the US.  Europe has a lot cheaper accomodations.  This was a long time ago.  Doubt the word bikepacking had been invented back then.  Bikepacking sounds like riding a bike with a big hiking backpack on your back.  Not very comfortable.

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