691
None of the tents and bags that ACA sells is cycling specific. Everything you find there can be found in camping stores as well.
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692
General Discussion / Re: finishing
« on: February 04, 2011, 09:54:19 am »
It didn't sink in until I saw the "Welcome to Astoria" sign, and then it was overwhelming.
I did one day at a time, lived in the moment, and very rarely thought about how far I'd come or how far I had to go. It's like that on tour. There is just barely a tomorrow and the day after tomorrow doesn't exist at all.
I did one day at a time, lived in the moment, and very rarely thought about how far I'd come or how far I had to go. It's like that on tour. There is just barely a tomorrow and the day after tomorrow doesn't exist at all.
693
Pacific Northwest / Re: How to Return to Start on one way tour?
« on: February 03, 2011, 08:25:09 pm »
I don't see any reason to have three transportation legs (home to start, finish to start, start to home) rather than just two (home to start, finish to home). I don't know what exactly you mean by "bike box and other gear that would have to stay at my starting location", but I would try to eliminate all that so that you leave nothing at the starting location. Perhaps you have a hard-shell case you would rather use, but I'd suggest you make do with a disposable box.
Because of high airline bike costs (except on a few airlines), I would generally prefer to ship my bike via FedEx or UPS to the start and home from the end rather than try to fly with it. Most bike shops provide a "pack and ship" service, and this is often quite convenient from your ending location. In many cases, this is a cheaper alternative than flying with your bike. Even if you feel you must use a hard case and fly with your bike, (as ridiculous as this sounds!!) you may find it cheaper to throw your hard case away at the start and buy a new one at the finish rather than pay the airline's bike charge three times.
Do you have some constraints you haven't mentioned yet?
Because of high airline bike costs (except on a few airlines), I would generally prefer to ship my bike via FedEx or UPS to the start and home from the end rather than try to fly with it. Most bike shops provide a "pack and ship" service, and this is often quite convenient from your ending location. In many cases, this is a cheaper alternative than flying with your bike. Even if you feel you must use a hard case and fly with your bike, (as ridiculous as this sounds!!) you may find it cheaper to throw your hard case away at the start and buy a new one at the finish rather than pay the airline's bike charge three times.
Do you have some constraints you haven't mentioned yet?
694
Except for a few odd-ball creations, there is no such thing as "biking equipment" when it comes to tents and sleeping bags. Whatever would fit your backpacking needs will certainly fit your cyclotouring needs, assuming temperature ranges will be similar. Cyclotourists sometimes place a bit higher value on free-standing tents than a backpacker would because of the frequency of setting up tents in urban settings when cyclotouring.
I am a bit curious, however, in specifically what you found as "biking equipment" that costs so much more.
I am a bit curious, however, in specifically what you found as "biking equipment" that costs so much more.
695
Routes / Re: route for Grand Junction to Glenwood Springs CO by road or trail?
« on: January 24, 2011, 09:08:01 am »
There's no such thing as a complete route with shoulders and/or straight roads between any two points in Colorado. On any route, some parts will be good and some will be bad no matter which route you choose. But that shouldn't stop you--it isn't anywhere near as dangerous as you fear.
696
Gear Talk / Re: Bike w/panniers Or BOB IBEX Trailer
« on: January 24, 2011, 07:57:18 am »
The first-hand account is referenced there as well.
697
Routes / Re: route for Grand Junction to Glenwood Springs CO by road or trail?
« on: January 23, 2011, 09:13:42 pm »
One advantage of the McClure Pass route is that this pass is only 8755 feet, fairly low for Colorado passes, so at least you stand a fighting chance of being able to get through in April. The pass is generally open year round, but you'll need to be flexible because there's a reasonable chance you won't be able to get through.
See Google Maps biking directions. It shows the Delta/McClure Pass route (at 143 miles) as the primary suggestion of three options, and the only one of those options I'd consider. If you make it that far, there's a nice bike path between Carbondale and Glenwood Springs.
It's not the weather at the two endpoints you need to be worried about--it's the weather in between.
See Google Maps biking directions. It shows the Delta/McClure Pass route (at 143 miles) as the primary suggestion of three options, and the only one of those options I'd consider. If you make it that far, there's a nice bike path between Carbondale and Glenwood Springs.
It's not the weather at the two endpoints you need to be worried about--it's the weather in between.
698
Routes / Re: Getting Across The Desert
« on: January 23, 2011, 02:34:51 pm »
Opinions are all over the map on racks. Racks do sometimes break, and more expensive racks are less likely to break and less likely the flex as you ride. There's no right answer. If you budget allows it, it often pays to buy quality. But if your budget does not allow it, cheaper racks usually server well. Just pay attention to the weight limits from the rack manufacturer.
699
Routes / Re: Getting Across The Desert
« on: January 23, 2011, 01:43:17 pm »
Steven, in cyclotouring lingo, the word "supported" does not typically refer to financial support, but rather to a motorized vehicle carrying your gear.
700
General Discussion / Re: Sizing question
« on: January 23, 2011, 01:28:10 pm »
Sizing is done somewhat differently by different manufacturers. Touring bikes, however, are generally sized the same as any other bike. Generally the size is the measurement from the center of the crank to the center of the top tube as measured along the seat tube (C-C). If the bike has a sloping top tube, then the measurement is to the center of the virtual top tube, i.e., where the top tube would hit the seat post if the top tube was horizontal. Some manufacturers measure to the top of the top tube rather than the center of the top tube (C-T).
In the old days, the measurement was to the top of the seat tube.
See the following for more information:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit
The only way to know, however, if a bike fits you is to (1) ride it (a lot), and (2) have the fit checked by a good bike fitter. Work with a good bike shop that is committed to make it fit well (and not just get your money and get you out the door).
In the old days, the measurement was to the top of the seat tube.
See the following for more information:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit
The only way to know, however, if a bike fits you is to (1) ride it (a lot), and (2) have the fit checked by a good bike fitter. Work with a good bike shop that is committed to make it fit well (and not just get your money and get you out the door).
701
Routes / Re: Getting Across The Desert
« on: January 22, 2011, 06:56:16 pm »StevenP, Through another thread you created it appears that you are doing this trip supported?Where did you see that?
702
General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT: Need help setting my bike up
« on: January 22, 2011, 06:49:28 pm »
The advertising for these mini-tripods always show it attached to some tree branch. But it always seemed to me that the tree branch I found handy was too thick to make it work. I prefer headbands for my light. For pictures, I got pretty good at the arms-length shot, which is much easier and quicker to set up than the mini-tripod.
703
General Discussion / Re: Around the US
« on: January 22, 2011, 06:45:16 pm »
Solo isn't the same thing as self-supported. You don't need support to have companionship.
You've already tried solo and didn't like it (although in my opinion, you didn't help by rushing it). So find a partner.
Personally, I prefer solo and self-supported. The sense of freedom is incredible, and a solo cyclist is a magnet for locals who come out of everywhere to engage you (assuming you pause long enough to let that happen). But there's room for all tastes.
You've already tried solo and didn't like it (although in my opinion, you didn't help by rushing it). So find a partner.
Personally, I prefer solo and self-supported. The sense of freedom is incredible, and a solo cyclist is a magnet for locals who come out of everywhere to engage you (assuming you pause long enough to let that happen). But there's room for all tastes.
704
General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT: Need help setting my bike up
« on: January 20, 2011, 07:51:36 am »I only use two bottle holders as the bottom one can get covered in gunge on wet mucky days.I use all three, but I never drink from the lower bottle cap, which can get covered with giardia and other nasties. Before I use that bottle, I swap the lid with one of my other bottles.
705
General Discussion / Re: Surly LHT: Need help setting my bike up
« on: January 19, 2011, 11:56:37 am »
Tires: I'd suggest something 32 to 37 mm wide. I like any of Schwalbe's touring tires, but there are many other suitable brands as well. I'd go with the Schwalbe Marathon Dupreme, size 622-37 (if you have 700 wheels).
Stem: Personal preference. Try the one you have first.
Saddle: The Brooks B-17 is probably the most commonly recommended saddle. But I'd first try the saddle you already have to see if it is good for you. If you get the B-17, make sure you get it 1000 miles in advance of your start.
Brakes: V-brakes are common for touring bikes, and I think the LHT does not have them.
Seat post suspension: just say no
Pedals: I'd go with SPD, simple and reliable.
Computer: Planet Bike Protege 9.0 (wired--eliminates possible interference problems with wireless). I'd skip the GPS as it uses too much battery power and you won't likely need it.
Front light: None. Don't plan to ride in the dark. If you get caught out unexpectedly, use your camp flashlight.
Rear light: Any bright red flashing thing. I like one that mounts to the rear of the rack so it isn't blocked by my gear. Planet Bike makes a rack-mounted light.
Pump: Topeak Road Morph (or Mountain Morph).
Water holders: anything will do
Racks: If budget permits, you cannot to better than Tubus. I like Tara front and Cargo rear, but Logo rear is also very popular. If budget is tighter, you can look for something less expensive, but make sure it is rated for your load.
Stem: Personal preference. Try the one you have first.
Saddle: The Brooks B-17 is probably the most commonly recommended saddle. But I'd first try the saddle you already have to see if it is good for you. If you get the B-17, make sure you get it 1000 miles in advance of your start.
Brakes: V-brakes are common for touring bikes, and I think the LHT does not have them.
Seat post suspension: just say no
Pedals: I'd go with SPD, simple and reliable.
Computer: Planet Bike Protege 9.0 (wired--eliminates possible interference problems with wireless). I'd skip the GPS as it uses too much battery power and you won't likely need it.
Front light: None. Don't plan to ride in the dark. If you get caught out unexpectedly, use your camp flashlight.
Rear light: Any bright red flashing thing. I like one that mounts to the rear of the rack so it isn't blocked by my gear. Planet Bike makes a rack-mounted light.
Pump: Topeak Road Morph (or Mountain Morph).
Water holders: anything will do
Racks: If budget permits, you cannot to better than Tubus. I like Tara front and Cargo rear, but Logo rear is also very popular. If budget is tighter, you can look for something less expensive, but make sure it is rated for your load.