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Messages - briwasson

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166
Youth Bicyle Travel / Re: Can I Tour with a Trail-a-bike?
« on: July 15, 2010, 11:39:59 am »
+1 for the Piccolo as a trail-a-bike. More $$ than the average trail-behind, but a MUCH better design. Because it clamps firmly to the included Burley "Moose" rack, it tracks much better, doesn't lean to the side like most trail-a-bikes, etc. You can put panniers on the Burley rack on the front bicycle, and even add a rack to the Piccolo, too, for additional pannier carrying capacity.

You can occasionally find the Piccolos used. Try craiglook.com for a wider-range search. A few on there when I just checked. Or, if you buy new, they  hold their value very well when resold.

A tandem set up for a child stoker is a much better bet than a trail-behind, but is a bigger $$ investment. I have a five-year-old son who rides with me using bot a child stoker setup (raised crankset) on our triplet bike and occasionally behind me on my single using a Burley Piccolo. On the triplet he "pedals" all the time since he can't coast; I'd say he's putting effort in to some degree most of the time, and whe we ask for a "turbo boost" up hills he really pours it on. On the Piccolo 95% of the time he is coasting, and even when I ask for help sometimes he won't. On the triplet we've ridden up to 35 miles in one shot with him, and he's still happy after the ride, so obviously the lack of freewheeling doesn't bother him. For more info, read this article written by the owner of Santana Tandems, Bill McCready. Obviously he wants to sell tandems/triplets, but his conclusions are 100% right from my experience. http://www.precisiontandems.com/artkidsbymccready.htm

167
Classifieds / WTB: 700c wheelset with Phil or Chris King hubset
« on: July 12, 2010, 01:25:34 pm »
It's a long shot, but... I'm looking for a set of high-quality wheels for a Co-Motion Nor'wester frame I just bought. 700c, 130mm rear spacing (although I could respace down from 135mm, too), 32 or 36 spokes, and Phil Wood or Chris King hubs that will take a Shimano 9-speed cassette. Please drop me an e-mail if you have something to sell.

168
Gear Talk / Re: Recommendation for a great shop to buy touring bikes
« on: July 07, 2010, 02:38:53 pm »
Have  you tried drops for long-distance touring? If you get the right setup, they aren't much different from flat bars functionally. If you like to  have MTB-style brake levers, you can always add the inline cyclocross style levers pretty cheaply (I did this on my wife's bike and they work great). Might interfere with some handlebar bags, though. Also, get a wider drop handlebar (like a 46cm) and you'll have all the leverage that you'd get from a flat bar setup.

Otherwise, as others have said, it's no big deal to swap to a flat bar setup. You can probably sell your drop bars and components for what swapping out would cost you.

169
Gear Talk / Re: Recommendation for a great shop to buy touring bikes
« on: July 05, 2010, 11:31:43 am »
If your LBS is willing to work with you and you don't mind putting the research in, then the LBS is the best way to go, I think. You'll be looking for them for support in the long run so why not give them the business now? REI is also a good option if you have one near you.

170
Since the discussion includes S&S couplers, I should also note that 26" wheels are way easier to pack in a standard S&S 26x26x10 case. 700c fits, but you have to deflate the tires usually and the wheels take up more room in general.

171
Gear Talk / Re: Chain Rings
« on: July 05, 2010, 11:14:20 am »
Lots of good advice already! Some more thoughts/addendums:

I have several triple setups running on my bikes, and all work pretty well:

1. Our triplet has Ultegra cranks (130/74 BCD) with 48-39-26 rings (FSA for the two biggest rings), Ultegra STI levers, Ultegra FD, XTR RD
2. Our touring tandem has White Industries cranks (110/74) with 48-36-24 rings and same as above other components. Rings are XTR 5-arm 110/74 that I got NOS on Ebay (nice).
3. My Cannondale touring bike has TA Carmina cranks (110/74) with 50-36-24 TA rings, Dura-Ace FD, Ultegra STI, XTR RD. This chainring setup is near perfect for me on a single touring bike and shifts just fine using the DA FD. The TA cranks and rings are crazy-expensive, though, and the only reason I have them is I got a killer deal on Ebay for the setup.

Would my life be simpler with barcons? Probably. But I really like STI, especially on the tandem and triplet.

All bikes above also have a chainwatcher gizmo installed.

Ultegra FDs are designed for a 10-tooth jump between large and middle rings. Dura-Ace are designed for a 14-tooth difference. This only matters if you are using STI shifters. Also, if you are using STI shifters, beware that FDs designed for MTBs/compact cranks (e.g., XT, XTR) won't work well (or at all) with STI levers due to differences in cable pull.


172
Classifieds / Re: FS: Cannondale SilkTour 700 touring bike
« on: May 07, 2010, 01:33:08 pm »
**SOLD** Thanks for the interest!

173
Routes / Re: Hampton to Virginia Beach
« on: May 05, 2010, 04:02:41 pm »
Hallo Kai,

If by "beltway" you are referring to I-64/264, which are interstate highways (Autobahn), then bike riding is not allowed. The challenge with getting around the Hampton Roads area (which is what the greater Norfolk/Chesapeake/Portsmouth/Virginia Beach area is called) is all the limited-access bridges. The main bridges from the peninsula area (Williamsburg, etc.) to the "southside" where Virginia Beach is do not allow bikes. You have two options:

1. The fastest and shortest route is to ride near a bridge and try to get someone to drive you across with your bikes. Look for somebody with a pickup and offer them $20 to drive you across. You probably won't have too much trouble. If I still lived in the area I'd help you out myself. The I-64 (beltway) Hampton Roads Bridge from Hampton into Norfolk is the most direct and the one I would try. Once across it's fairly easy to get into Virginia Beach.

2. Your other alternative is to take a LONG detour through Smithfiled, Portsmouth, Chesapeake and then into Virginia Beach. (Google Maps directions "by bike" show a reasonably good route.)

Guete Fahrt!

174
General Discussion / Re: Good morning America how are you?
« on: May 05, 2010, 09:53:34 am »
Ah, didn't know that about the song! Thanks for the info.

175
General Discussion / Re: Good morning America how are you?
« on: May 04, 2010, 12:39:30 pm »
Great subject line from the Arlo Guthrie song, BTW! ("City of New Orleans")

176
Gear Talk / Re: I need lower gears!
« on: May 04, 2010, 10:22:44 am »
>"If it's a standard road triple, the BCD for the middle and outer rings is 130mm, and the smallest you can go in that size is 38 teeth.  Below that, the bolts would interfere with the chain."

A standard road triple back in the '80s had 110/74 BCD, as another poster noted. With a 74BCD you can go down to a 24-tooth chainring.

If looking to upgrade the rear, I'd highly suggest moving up to at least a 7-speed cassette hub from your 6-speed freewheel. Cassette freehubs tend to be stronger due to the way the axle is supported, a factor when under touring loads. Plus, it's easier to remove a cassette even when it's been subjected to a lot of torque, like it would be under when climbing with a load. You could either pick up a used wheel that takes 7-speed cassettes, which is likely to be cheap since they aren't in much demand, or get a wheel with a hub that will take a 7-8-9-10 speed cassette to allow yourself upgrade options down the road. You can run a 7-speed cassette on an 8-9-10 speed hub by using a spacer.

If upgrading the wheel, you'll likely also need to change the spacing in your rear dropouts. You probably have 126mm spacing back there, and modern hubs either use 130mm (standard road spacing) or 135mm (MTB spacing, also often used in touring/hybrid wheels). If you have a steel frame, it's no a big deal to move from 126mm to 130mm. You can either have this done professionally by a bike shop or you can just spread the dropouts by hand each time you put the wheel on/off.

177
Classifieds / FS: Cannondale SilkTour 700 touring bike
« on: April 24, 2010, 12:27:18 am »
This is a very cool and hard-to-find Cannondale SilkTour 700 road bicycle. The Silk Tour is one of the most multi-purpose bikes you'll likely ever see. Use it for regular road riding, touring, commuting, charity rides, about-town riding, paths, or even light trail riding. Would be a perfect bike for a tour on a trail like the C&O canal or similar (which is what we originally bought it for). It features Cannondale's HeadShok front suspension, with a lockout knob at the top of the fork for on the fly lockout. This gives  you the best of both worlds: turn the suspension on to smooth out bumps, or off for more responsive road riding or climbing. 700c wheels.

Low miles, in nice shape, with some light scratches here and there from moving around the garage (nothing major at all). It's my wife's bike and she rarely rides it (we mostly ride our tandem and triplet). I've held onto the bike despite it gathering dust in my garage because it's such a neat bike; it always gets positive comments on the rare occasions we take it out on a ride. Too many bikes in the garage now, though, so it's gotta go.

Here are the specs:

-Cannondale CAAD2 aluminum frame
-16" frame size, fits a really wide range of sizes due to V-style frame (my 5'2" wife has ridden it, as has my 5'11" friend)
-HeadShok fork with lockout
-Frame has braze-ons including rear rack mounts, fork eyelets, two sets of bottle bosses, etc.
-Drop handlebars and Cannondale HeadShok-specific stem (you can choose between a short or long-reach stem; I have both available)
-Shimano Tiagra 9-speed STI shifters/brake levers, with new auxiliary cross-style brake levers at top of bars (see pics). I actually like the Tiagra levers better than the Ultegra levers I have on my other bikes; the FD shifter has more trim options, making it very nice to use with a triple crank
-Shimano Tiagra front derailleur, LX rear derailleur
-SRAM 12-34 9-speed cassette
-Cannondale-branded Sugino triple crank. 170mm arms, 48-38-28 rings (ramped for 9 speed), 110/74 BCD gives you plenty of option
-Super-strong 700c wheelset, consisting of Mavic T224 rims, 36 spokes, and very nice Cannondale Omega cartridge-bearing QR hubs (made by DT Swiss); Shimano QR skewers
-Conti Top Touring tires, 700x35mm (or maybe 38mm, have to double check)
-Cannondale cantilever brakes (Avid Shorty knockoffs)
-Brand-new Selle Royale gel saddle
-Alloy microadjust seatpost, QR seatpost binder
-Also includes two water bottle cages, not shown, as well as a Blackburn rear rack (if I can find the hardware for it... no promises)

Price is $499 + shipping if needed. For some reason the forum won't let me post photos. See my Craigslist posting for photos (or e-mail for more, higher-res pics) at http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/1723999626.html

Located in the Philadelphia, Pa., area, but am willing to ship if needed. E-mail me (briwasson at verizon dot net) for my phone number if you want to chat more about the bike.

178
Classifieds / Re: WANTED: 700c touring wheelset w/ 135mm rear spacing
« on: April 20, 2010, 02:56:51 pm »
Just bought almost the exact same wheelset locally off Craigslist (Deore hubs/Mavic rims). Thanks for the post, though!

179
I've never had water in my tubes from the S&S couplers, and with a tandem and a triple both with couplers, I have a lot of tubes!

180
I have S&S couplers on three bikes: a Co-Mo single, a Santana tandem, and a Santana triple. Absolutely love them, and they make remote touring much more convenient. Not just the ability to fly more cheaply, but being able to fit in a smaller car, etc.

Regarding retrofits, I highly recommend Stephen Bilenky (http://www.bilenky.com/Home.html) in Philadelphia. I haven't used him for a retrofit on my personal bikes (they are all from the factory), but have used him for other frame work over the years (he just added a kickstand plate to my triple for example). He's probably the leading S&S retrofitter i the USA and does great work. I was just at his shop a few weeks ago and saw several frames in the midst of being "hacked," including a Titanium frame. All looked really well done.

One data point re: 26" wheels: they are much easier to fit into the 26x26 stock S&S case compared to 700c wheels.

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