Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - DaveB

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 96
Gear Talk / Re: Shoes/pedals for a cross country ride?
« on: October 09, 2015, 09:01:33 pm »
Another vote for "clipless" pedals.  Try them and you will never go back to clips and straps.

The now obsolete Shimano FC-5703 and FC-4503 triple cranks had 130/74 mm bolt circles and the 30T granny can be replaced with down to a 24T chainring.  You have to find these NOS somewhere.   

Shimano's "Trekking" cranksets come geared the way the Aurora does at 48/36/26 and these cranks are available from a couple of German internet suppliers.  They don't seem to be sold in the US.

Your existing front and rear derailleurs will work with either type.

Shimano's 10-speed ROAD rear derailleurs will work with the Microshift barends.  Shimano's 10-speed MTB rear derailleurs (aka Dyna-Sys) will NOT shift properly with the Microshift barends as the cable pull requirement was changed.  A Shimano 9-speed  MTB rear derailleur will shift properly with the Microshift 10-speed barends.

Gear Talk / Re: List of tools
« on: September 15, 2015, 12:53:19 pm »
Wow, are you touring or operating a mobile bike repair shop? 

General Discussion / Re: How much is this bike worth?
« on: September 15, 2015, 12:49:25 pm »
I agree that $9000 price is absurd and the bike includes a great number of items of very little interest to most potential buyers.   This "prize package" sounds a bit like the awards made on TV game shows.

The bike alone, assuming it fits you and is the type you want, may be worth $3500 - $4000 new and a lot less if made for someone else.

Oh, one thing to consider.  If the  bike is really assessed as worth $9000 the winner (you) may be considered by the IRS as having earned $9000 in extra income that year and be taxed on that value.

Trek used to have their WSB (women specific bicycle) line, but I don't know if that is still around anymore.
Yes, Trek's WSD line is still around and pretty extensive but has no touring models.

I assume you mean you need a 47-49 cm frame. :) 

Surly offers the Long Haul Trucker and Disc Trucker frames in sizes down to 42 cm with 26" wheels and Trek sells their 520, both caliper and disc brake models, in a 48 cm size. Both are well respected touring frames and the sell comfortably within your budget. 

I don't know of any off-the-shelf Women's specific touring frames. 

General Discussion / Re: cassettes
« on: September 04, 2015, 08:52:34 am »
My son had a Fuji Pro that came with Dura-Ace 7800 equipment and a tight cassette.  When his racing days were over, he put a cassette with 28 teeth on and it shifted fine.  The crank-set had 53/39 rings.  If your chain-rings are that big, you may want to swap them for a compact.
Remember, you can't just switch standard 53/39 chainrings for a compact set-up (typically 50/34) on the same crank since the bolt circles are not compatible.  You would need an entirely new crank.

General Discussion / Re: cassettes
« on: September 03, 2015, 08:24:09 am »
Most road rear derailleurs are rated to handle at least a 27T rear cog and newer ones often 28 or even 32T.  Experience has shown that even those rated for a 27T maximum will work with a 28T and often a 30T.  Probably the most useful 10-speed cassette for you is the Tiagra 12x30 although the 11x28 will also work but for most riders an 11T small cog is a waste of time.

Gear Talk / Re: Back To Bar Cons
« on: August 20, 2015, 09:10:48 am »
also this option
I've used both "Retroshift" brifters and Kelly Takeoffs and the Retroshift arrangement is both lighter and more convenient.  Either is better than barends.

Gear Talk / Re: Back To Bar Cons
« on: August 19, 2015, 09:39:48 am »
I'm not a fan of barend shifters either and far prefer STI/Ergos or the better alternative described below.  That said, I recently "upgraded" an older 9-speed STI equipped bike to 10-speed using Shimano SL-BS79 barends since they were only $50 at Nashbar and the entire upgrade was less than $100 for the shifters, 105 cassette, 10-speed SRAM chain.

However, there is an alternative to both barends and brifters that is much cheaper than most brifters, as reliable as downtube and barends and nearly as convenient as brifters.  The Gevenelle (formerly Retroshift) "brifters" are standard Tektro brake levers (available in both caliper/cantilever and V-brake/MTB disc brake form and even a hydraulic disc brake version) fitted with brackets to which are bolted downtube or barend levers.  They put the shift levers right under your hands while riding the hoods just like brifters.  I have these on three bikes, two 10-speed and one 8-speed, and couldn't be happier with them.  All the convenience of brifters but with out the high price and durability issues.

I expect the definition varies with the organizers but to me a "fully supported ride" would include all meals as well as specified overnight locations and luggage transport.  A "supported ride" would leave the riders on their own for some or all meals.

Gear Talk / Re: 9 speed or 10 speed for my new bike build up?
« on: August 14, 2015, 09:04:02 am »
The biggest annoyance I had on the back roads of Kentucky were drivers who refused to pass even when they could see well ahead and I waved them by.  We ran across a few of them and I found them really annoying.
I've had this happen in several places, not just KY.   The real problem isn't with the driver who won't pass, it's with the cars trapped behind them.  They tend to blame the bicyclist, not the incompetent driver in front of them. 

Note to Slow and Slower: Yes, the recent generation of Shimano 10-speed barend and downtube shifters do lack a friction option.  It's unfortunate but friction shifting a 10-speed cassette is a bit tricky due to the close cog spacing and barend and downtube shifters are so reliable that perhaps the friction option as a bail-out was deemed unnecessary.

Gear Talk / Re: 9 speed or 10 speed for my new bike build up?
« on: August 13, 2015, 08:22:53 am »
[The problem of balance and control comes when you suddenly are going downhill and not uphill at that gearing.
That's why bikes have shift levers.  When the grade breaks, you shift to a higher gear.  Roads don't suddenly change grades like falling off a cliff, you should be able to easily see it approaching. 

And, yes, I've ridden back roads in both Virginia and Kentucky, particularly in Western Virginia, and have never had to "dive suddenly" to the side of the road.  If I'm climbing slowly i'm already at the edge of the pavement. 

Gear Talk / Re: 9 speed or 10 speed for my new bike build up?
« on: August 12, 2015, 08:41:14 am »
So I am grinding up hill using 20 inch gearing and now have to dive towards the side of the road. No way I can spin fast enough to maintain control of the bike and stay out of the ditch!!
Uh, why would you have to "dive toward the side of the road"?  Do you ride right down the middle normally? 

Well SlowAndSlower, you are not living up to your nom de plume.
22x36@90rpm yields around 5mph on my 29er tires. Balance and control is not particularly difficult at that pace.
That's why I can't understand those who claim they don't want very low gears because they can; "walk the bike faster".   No one can push a loaded bike up a steep hill as fast as they can ride it.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 96