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Messages - DaveB

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1006
Gear Talk / Touring Pedals
« on: November 18, 2007, 02:09:12 pm »
First, I started riding over 20 years ago when platform or toe clip/strap pedals were the only choices so I'm not unfamiliar with them having ridden thousands of miles using clips and straps.

Now I know better and disagree that clipless pedals are of little benefit to casual riders unless you are VERY casual.  If you only ride in flat areas, their benefits may not be as obvious but in the hills they are almost essential.  The LBS certainly didn't "bully" me into using them, experience did and I'd never go back.

I wonder if your SPD's are adjusted properly.  I ride in both Speedplay Frogs (super easy exit and a lot of float) and Shimano SPD double sided pedals and find the SPD's very easy to enter and exit, even compared to the Speedplays.  SPD's have a tension adjustment and perhaps yours need to be loosened.

As to "touring" pedals, I think Peterson is referring to quill pedals that accept toe clips and straps.  Many "sneaker" platform pedals are not set up to fit  toe clips and straps.



 


1007
Gear Talk / quick release vrs bolt on hub
« on: November 10, 2007, 11:20:02 am »
Are you talking handlebar stem, as in the thingy that lets you steer the bike, as in the thingy that supports 30% of your weight? Geese! Scary.  

Yes, that's what broke.  And yes, it certainly was scary.

I called Profile (it was one of their stems) after the incident and they sent me a new, stronger model right away at no cost.  I think they were grateful I wasn't hurt and wasn't threatening to sue.  


1008
Gear Talk / quick release vrs bolt on hub
« on: November 06, 2007, 11:02:26 am »
I once had a stem break. Now THAT was exciting.

Me too and it was all the excitement I wanted for quite a while.  I had just come down a winding 35 mph hill, stopped at a red light about a mile later and the stem broke just as I was leaving the traffic light so the resulting spill was at very low speed. I still think about what would have happened if it had broken 5 minutes earlier.


1009
Gear Talk / quick release vrs bolt on hub
« on: November 04, 2007, 09:05:59 pm »
Properly designed and installed qr skewers (internal cam types like Shimano and Campy make) are actually more secure than nutted axles.  The cam goes "over center" as the flag is fully closed and actually gets tighter as you first begin to open it so it is almost impossible to loosen by itself. Nuts can and do vibrate loose.    

Avoid the external cam boutique light weights as they don't generate the clamping force that an internal cam will and are more fragile.

I too have never heard of a Shimano or Campy qr ever breaking.
 


1010
Gear Talk / New Fork
« on: October 23, 2007, 09:07:35 pm »
I put a Winwood carbon cyclcross fork on my T2000 Cannondale and it made a world of difference in handling and comfort.....

I don't doubt it made a difference in the bike's handeling as the rake and length may have been different from the stock fork but I still doubt the "comfort" difference.  No rigid fork of any kind can have significant complience and "shock absorbtion" or the bike's steering would be significantly compromised.


1011
Gear Talk / New Fork
« on: October 23, 2007, 09:39:56 am »
I have bikes with steel forks, aluminumm forks and both relatively heavy and extremely light all-carbon forks and I really can't feel a significant comfort difference among any of them.

I think the concept that carbon forks are more comfortable is more marketing than fact.  A carbon fork can be a lot lighter than a steel fork but that's its real advantage.


1012
Gear Talk / Touring Forks
« on: October 21, 2007, 11:04:19 am »
Contact Trek and see if they can provide a direct replacement fork.  You are correct that finding a 1" threaded touring fork with cantilever brake and rack mounts is very difficult.  

One other thing; if you were in an accident that was severe enough to damage the fork, have the frame's headtube and downtube checked for damage also.


1013
Gear Talk / Drive train/gearing changes
« on: October 20, 2007, 09:51:59 am »
A bicycle is a machine of torque amplification, not horse power

Actually that isn't correct.  A bicycle is a distance amplification machine at the expense of torque. The bike travels further than your feet do even in very low gears.

Even if the chain broke first it would continue to follow through the stroke until it reached it's last link as a single unit.

That's not true either.  A popped pin or bent side plate could easily get jammed into the adjacent cogs and do all kinds of damage as it passed through the cassette.  I've seen rear derailleurs destroyed when a broken chain was pulled through them so a broken chain is not smooth and snag-free.  


1014
Gear Talk / Drive train/gearing changes
« on: October 18, 2007, 08:44:28 pm »
I stood to pedal and the 34T bent and the chain broke.
OK, but I wonder about the sequence of events.  You believe the cog bent and then the chain broke.  I wonder if the chain broke and that bent the cog.

The cog, either Shimano or SRAM. should be plenty strong enough to take the load you describe.  The limiting factor would be rear tire grip, not cog strength.  The rear wheel should slip before you should be able to bend a cog. I expect the chain broke and that caused the resulting damage.

This message was edited by DaveB on 10-18-07 @ 4:44 PM

1015
Gear Talk / Drive train/gearing changes
« on: October 16, 2007, 09:06:49 pm »
What I learned: the LX rear cassette bent early on so I changed it for a Scram 11-34. The SCRAM is steel and built to take abuse.

You bent an LX cassette?  LX cassettes are steel too and, since they are mountain bike components, they are intended to take abuse also. SRAM cassettes are no more rugged than any of the Shimano offerings.  


1016
Gear Talk / Brooks saddles and rain
« on: October 09, 2007, 10:27:04 pm »
I live in the maritime Pacific NW and we sometime get rain.

You are a master of understatement.  ;)


1017
Gear Talk / Volpe, Fenders & Tire Size
« on: October 07, 2007, 12:00:41 pm »
The best way to find out is to mount the fenders and then see how much clearance you have with the current tires.  You should be able to judge how big you can go.  


1018
Gear Talk / Laptop to carry on bike trip?
« on: October 03, 2007, 07:39:17 pm »
I'm also not sure what you plan to do with the laptop but there is a very light alternative if you will have access to regular computers such as in Libraries.  

A 2 or 4 Gig USB "Thumb Drive" will hold a huge number of word processing files and complete copies of "Portable Open Office" (a free MSOffice work-alike, that is fully compatible with Word and Excel files) and "Portable Firefox" (a free Internet browser) and "Portable Thunderbird", (a free Outlook Express-type E-mail program).  These programs are all available as no-cost downloads ( one source is http://johnhaller.com/jh/ ) and work very well.

You can plug the USB drive into any available desktop or laptop and use it as your own personal self-contained drive with access to all of your files, your own word processor and your own Internet and E-mail programs.  

These drives are extremely small and light, durable and cheap at about $50.      


1019
Gear Talk / trek 520 crankset rehab
« on: September 24, 2007, 11:59:06 pm »
Your 520 has the very common "English" bottom bracket threading and the normal road width of 68 mm.  This is almost universal on road bikes these days.  

All current MTB cranks and bottom brackets use English threading but many have a 73 mm bottom bracket width so you would need spacers to fit one to your bike.  They should be provided with the bottom bracket so it can be used with older 68 mm frames.  

I recommend you visit a knowledgeable bike shop and discuss what you need.

This message was edited by DaveB on 9-24-07 @ 7:59 PM

1020
Gear Talk / Rear light for Surly Nice Racks
« on: September 19, 2007, 11:46:25 pm »
DaveB. I did almost exactly what you are suggesting, except that I used an inch or so of a broomstick handle. The wood is easy to cut and shape and drill, and it is plenty strong. Heck, I may even paint it some day.

Paul


Paul, right after I wrote the posting about using a piece of seatpost I realized anything cylindrical would also work.  Your broomhandle (or a 1" dowel) is certainly a more available than left-over seatposts. :)

Other suitable adapters could be made from a piece of metal or plastic pipe.

This message was edited by DaveB on 9-19-07 @ 7:46 PM

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