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Messages - DaveB

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1006
Gear Talk / Bike for Supported Touring
« on: March 17, 2006, 08:28:55 am »
A light touring or even a pure road bike will be plenty durable for unloaded touring or even credit card touring and will be more fun to ride than a heavy-duty loaded touring bike.  

Avoid low spoke count boutique wheels and your bike should be up to anything you will do.


1007
Gear Talk / carbon seat post
« on: March 12, 2006, 08:15:19 am »
I'm not sure why anyone has a carbon seatpost on any type bike.  I hear lots of problems with slipping and inability to hold height adjustments.  They impress me as a solution looking for a problem.


1008
Gear Talk / Zebrakenko Bike?
« on: March 07, 2006, 04:07:05 pm »
I never heard of it either but if it's cheap enough, you could buy it and become the forum's expert on the brand. :)


1009
Gear Talk / birdy
« on: March 10, 2006, 08:58:59 pm »
I own both a Bike Friday with 20" wheels that cost a great deal less than the $3700,
You didn't buy it in Australia.  The OP lives there and has to pay Australian prices for his purchases.  


1010
Gear Talk / birdy
« on: March 06, 2006, 03:54:07 pm »
Quote
My only problem with the 520 is the weight,I will probably put 700c wheels on the Cannondale f2000sl,this will be cheaper anyhow.

I'm not familiar with the Cannondale f2000sl but what size wheels does it come with?  You can't just put 700c wheels on a bike with "26" wheels(ISO 559)because the brakes (cantilever, caliper or V-brakes) won't line up with the rims.  

If it has disc brakes you could lace 700c rims to the existing hubs but that won't be cheap and you have to be sure the fork and frame clearances are sufficient.

I think you are making too much of an issue about the 520's weight.  If you don't need them, take off the racks and it will be at least a kilo lighter.






1011
Gear Talk / Kick stands
« on: February 26, 2006, 11:29:06 am »
No.  They have to be clamped to the frame behind the bottom bracket or to a chain stay.  They won't hurt a "water pipe" frame but I'd never fit one to a thin wall steel or any Al frame.

Otherwise, unnecesary weight, poor stability and useless if you have to lock the bike to any stationary object for security.  I never found anyplace without something to lean the bike against.

This message was edited by DaveB on 2-26-06 @ 9:29 AM

1012
Gear Talk / Koga no customer service
« on: March 03, 2006, 10:46:04 am »
Quote
I'd also advise not ordering a mail order bike from St. John Street Cycles since you really need to be your own mechanic on mail order bikes and parts.  

This is excellent advice and should be taken to heart by all riders. If you aren't a sufficiently skilled mechanic, buy your parts and bikes from a good local dealer or expect to pay a high premium for dealer service on parts you bought elsewhere.  

I read a number of Bike Mechanics Forums and it's appaling how many questions are posed like: "I just bought XYZ from E-bay.  How do I install it and how do I use it?"

The time to learn is BEFORE you buy, not after.


1013
Gear Talk / Koga no customer service
« on: February 26, 2006, 11:21:17 am »
I'm not familiaar with Koga bicycles but from your letter it seems to me your problems were primarily due to dealer incompetence.  The handlebar and rear wheel were not secure?  The chain jammed? These are dealer set up problems.  

The dealer is expected to go over the bike and adjust it. That's what they are there for and a reasonable level of competence and attention to detail are the least you should expect.  It sounds like you got neither.

Maybe Koga isn't a well made brand and you should replace it but the problems sound more dealer related at this point.  


1014
Gear Talk / bike choice
« on: February 26, 2006, 11:25:17 am »
Bike Friday's are very highly thought of here in the US.  They are pretty much a custom proposition and priced accordingly. My son-in-law has one and I've ridden it a bit.    

In general, they make great travel bikes but I don't think you'd want one as a daily rider.  


1015
Gear Talk / Convert 8-speed to 9-speed?
« on: February 21, 2006, 09:58:53 am »
The change from 8-speed to 9-speed will require at a minimum a new cassette, a new chain and new shifters.  These will cost WAY more than the $50 difference so either be content with 8-speed or buy the 9-speed right off.

BTW, 8-speed components are getting hard to find since upgrading to 9-speed or 10-speed allows you to use the same wheels and rear derailleurs so when 8-speed stuff wears out, most riders do the upgrade.

My recommendation?  Pay the slight difference and go with 9-speed right off the bat.  


1016
Gear Talk / Schwinn Derailler
« on: February 18, 2006, 07:29:39 pm »
The derailleur doesn't define whether it's friction or indexing, the shifters do.  With friction shifters ANY make derailleur will work if, as noted, it can "wrap up" enough chain for your current gearing.


1017
Gear Talk / Windsor Tourist? Is this a good bike?
« on: February 23, 2006, 09:55:26 am »
You are planning a TransAmerica tour and you are willing to trust an unknown bike from an unknown assembler to save a few bucks?  Sounds like very false economy to me.  

I recommend you seriously reconsider Trek, REI, Cannondale or other known suppliers.  You will have the comfort of knowing that they are well established, their bike are a known quantity and if there is a problem, you have a waranty and local dealers that can help you.


1018
Gear Talk / Importance of Disk Brakes?
« on: February 07, 2006, 09:27:45 am »
Quote
The only brakes out there that are sometimes not suitable for touring are the caliper brakes found on road bikes.  This is because there isn't adequate braking power while going down steep descents when loaded.

That's really not correct.  Modern double pivot caliper brakes have plenty of power and excellent modulation at reasonable hand pressure.  

Their disadvantage is limited clearance for fat tires and/or fenders.  Even "long reach" calipers don't offer the clearance that V-brakes or cantilevers do.

This message was edited by DaveB on 2-7-06 @ 7:28 AM

1019
Gear Talk / Why can't I use a carbon fiber bike with a trailer
« on: February 07, 2006, 09:23:03 am »
Quote
The rims will also crack when they are just worn out by the rubbing of the brakes.  I think it is unlikely they cracked just because of the added weight.


Rims generally crack in one of two places:  

First is just what you reported, the brake track cracks from abrasive wear.  I've had several rims fail that way in from 11,000 to 30,000 miles depending oh how they were used, how much bad weather they were exposed to and how durable the rim was to begin with.  Very light rims are, obviously, less durable and less wear resistant.

The second mode of cracking is around the spoke holes which is a fatigue failure or caused by excessive spoke tension or poor rim design/material.

The tongue weight of a trailer is unlikely to accelerate either mode of failure.    


1020
Gear Talk / Fenders
« on: March 17, 2006, 08:24:46 am »
Partial fenders are not nearly as good as full coverage fenders but are certainly better than doing without.  There are a lot of road bikes with frame, fork and brake clearances that won't allow full fenders so only clip-on partials will fit.

If full fenders fit, use them but, if not, anything is better than nothing.


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