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Messages - DaveB

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1006
General Discussion / Re: mountain v. road clipless shoes/pedals
« on: May 25, 2010, 06:46:57 pm »
That said the fit of my bike is very important as I have found myself to be very biomechanically sensitive...... My bike is perfectly set up for me and changing something as important as shoes, pedals, and cleats is not worth it.  I will be sticking with my road shoes and cleat covers.  If I wasn't so finicky I would be using an SPD set up with MTB shoes for sure.
The main difference between road pedals/shoes and MTB pedals/shoes will be the stack height, that is the distance between the pedal spindle and your foot.  Typically MTB shoes and pedals position your foot further away.  Try to measure this distance for both your road and MTB set ups and raise your seat by the same amount.  That should make the bike feel the same.

1007
Fenders? Absolutely.  If your frame and fork have the clearance for them, full coverage fenders are a blessing in any kind of bad weather.  They keep you dryer and your drivetrain a lot cleaner.

I've used several other brands and the Planet Bike (these: http://ecom1.planetbike.com/7004.html ) are my favorite.  They are easy to install and adjust and give very good protection at minimal weight.

1008
General Discussion / Re: mountain v. road clipless shoes/pedals
« on: May 23, 2010, 10:05:54 am »
@DaveB - I fully agree with your points and would add that I pretty much tour and commute solely in regular trail running shoes with toe cages and platform pedals as a way to eliminate having to carry redundant sets of footwear. It is not as efficient pedaling but allows for frequent dismounts and sightseeing and I still don't have any issues putting in similar high mileage days when required.
When I started riding in the mid-80's I did too since clipless pedals were in their infancy and hadn't made it to the ordinary rider level.  However, as soon as I got the opportunity to try a pair, I was sold. 

I ride in a lot of hills and the ability to pull up and through the stroke without coming out of the pedals was a revelation and I'd never go back.  BTW, I put a pair of toeclip/strap pedals on one bike a couple of months ago to take a short local ride.  Never again. 

I can walk fairly comfortably in my MTB-style riding shoes during riding time and carrying a pair of light shoes or sandals for off-the-bike wear are a well worth the slight extra weight while touring. 

1009
Gear Talk / Re: Tool kit?
« on: May 22, 2010, 01:56:31 pm »
Multi-tools are convenient and cool but they are merely marketing successes, too.
I pretty much agree with one exception; Park's MT-1 "Dog Bone" multitool.  It has 3,4,5,6 and 8 mm hex wrenches, 8,9 and 10mm box wrenches and a small flat screwdriver, weighs less than 40 grams and costs about $10. Better yet all of the larger hex wrenches are oriented so you can get some real leverage.  I once used mine to retorque someone's loose crank arm and it got them through the rest of the ride.

The MT-1 paired with a small light chain tool and a proper size small spoke wrench should do almost any roadside repair that's feasible.   

KNow how to use your chain tool......If you shop for individual tools, beware cheap tools that can chew the edges off your nuts and bolts.
+1 on both accounts. 

1010
General Discussion / Re: mountain v. road clipless shoes/pedals
« on: May 21, 2010, 05:50:39 pm »
MTB Pedal/Cleat systems pro:
-Easy to walk in.
-Secure if you put your foot down at a stop light, etc.
-Cleats don't wear out from walking on them.
-All common designs double sided so you don't have to flip the pedal over to clip in.

MTB Pedal/Cleat systems con:
-Shoes and pedals are usually heavier.
-Shoe soles are usually (not always) not as stiff as road shoes

Road Pedal Pro:
-Stiffer soles on most shoes
-Lighter shoes and most pedals
-Style points with the "serious" riders

Road pedals con:
-Difficult and awkward to walk in even with cleat covers.
-Slippery footing when stopping at traffic lights, etc.  Even worse if the road is wet.
-Walking damages cleats unless you go to the trouble of using cleat covers EVERY time you get off the bike. Uncovered cleats will damage many floors too.
-Most (Speedplays are the notable exception) are single sided so the pedal has to be flipped upright to clip in. 

My conclusion: For touring and recreational riding MTB pedals are the clear choice.  Road pedals are for racing, serious training and riders who rarely walk or ride in traffic.


 
 
 

1011
In my experience it doesn't hurt your running but doesn't help that much. If what you want is to improve your distance running you're best off working on a running program.
My experience is that cycling can help maintain or increase your overall fitness but it does hurt your running, not your endurance but your stride.

1012
General Discussion / Re: Youth tour on bamboo bikes
« on: May 19, 2010, 01:26:20 pm »
I fully agree that building bikes by and for neophyte young riders is a recipe for disaster, or several disasters.  This is further compounded by the concept of bamboo bikes which require some specialized technology to build anyway.  Noble idea but wholly impractical.

If you are in Pittsburgh, there is an organization in the East End called "Freeride".  They have bike maintainance classes and teach people how to build up a bike for themselves and keep the bike afterwards.  If you can get your kids into something like this they will not only have bikes but know how to keep them going. 

1013
Gear Talk / Re: How to remove keyed steering tube sleeves?
« on: May 18, 2010, 09:57:13 am »
I don't know what you mean by a "keyed steering tube".  Based on the photo and description on the REI web site, the Safari appears to have a very conventional threadless steerer/headset/stem arrangement. 

Remove the top cap bolt and cap, loosen the stem clamp bolt and the stem and bars should slide off as a unit.  The "sleeve" over the steerer tube is just a spacer.  With the bars and stem off, the spacer will slide off by hand.

1014
You don't have to buy a gallon of white gas.  As you noted, the MSA will burn almost anything and anything includes unleaded gasoline or kerosene.  You can get one or both at any gas station you pass on the road and only pay for what you need.  If you catch someone filling their car, you might even get it for free for the small amount you need. 

Canisters are specialty items and there are several different and non-interchangable types.  Canister stoves are simpler to use but the canisters can be hard to find unless you have access to a major backpacking/outdoor store like an REI.  These aren't going to be found in small towns. 

1015
Gear Talk / Re: Will a racing saddle work for touring?
« on: May 16, 2010, 10:01:18 am »
Quote
but several replacements
Should that say, "buy several replacements"?
Yes, it should have, and if I could type (or proofread) it would have. :)

1016
General Discussion / Re: Anyone know about the Porsche Bike S??
« on: May 16, 2010, 09:56:26 am »
I personally would never buy a car-branded bike.
+1  These bikes are chosen for image, not bicycling quality and are usually low end items.  Buy a bicycle sold as a bicycle, not as a trinket to accompany a car. 

1017
General Discussion / Re: How Realistic is 125 miles daily mileage?
« on: May 13, 2010, 10:24:03 am »
According to Mapquest, the distance from Astoria to LA is 1051 miles by the most direct route.  I assume using roads open to bicycles (i.e. not Interstate 5) will make the distance at least this long or longer.  So you are planning on riding 8 or 9 125-mile day in a row. 

Riding 200 miles in one day is admirable but it's not the same as that many back-to-back 125 mile rides.  This sounds VERY ambitious.   

1018
I'm really confused.  How do couplers increase the likelihood of getting water in the down tube?
If the threads are properly greased, they don't. 

Another vote for the S&S couplers.  I have a CoMotion single factory fitted with them and they are a perfect addition to a travel bike.  No downside at all except cost and a very minor weight penalty.  You do have to check them for tightness every so often but that's no worse than checking that your brakes work before a ride.

As to a retrofit, of course Co-motion recommends you buy a factory-fit frame, they make them and don't do retrofits.  I've also heard very good things about Bilenky's retrofits but they aren't cheap.

1019
Gear Talk / Re: Will a racing saddle work for touring?
« on: May 12, 2010, 08:16:25 am »
)....and so he's comfortable on this saddle....
That's your answer right there.   Saddles are the most personal item on any bike and once you have one that works, but several replacements because you can be certain they will go out of production or be "improved" by the manufacturer. 


1020
Gear Talk / Re: 2002 Trek 520 - NEW
« on: March 15, 2010, 10:12:50 pm »
 
Quote
I just looked at it on Trek's website and I see they're still using 9-speed, which I like because 9-speed chains and cassettes are far cheaper and last longer than than 10-speed.
They are probably using 9-speed because the largest cog Shimano offers on their 10-speed cassettes is a 28T.  To get the more common touring large cog of 32 or 34T you have to use an MTB cassette and they are only available in 9-speed.   

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