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Messages - DaveB

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1006
Gear Talk / Rear light for Surly Nice Racks
« on: September 19, 2007, 11:46:25 pm »
DaveB. I did almost exactly what you are suggesting, except that I used an inch or so of a broomstick handle. The wood is easy to cut and shape and drill, and it is plenty strong. Heck, I may even paint it some day.

Paul


Paul, right after I wrote the posting about using a piece of seatpost I realized anything cylindrical would also work.  Your broomhandle (or a 1" dowel) is certainly a more available than left-over seatposts. :)

Other suitable adapters could be made from a piece of metal or plastic pipe.

This message was edited by DaveB on 9-19-07 @ 7:46 PM

1007
Gear Talk / Rear light for Surly Nice Racks
« on: September 18, 2007, 10:09:44 pm »
I haven't actually done this but this idea has occured to me.  I'll assume you have a rack with a L-bracket or similar mounting point intended to bolt on a rear light.  

Get a scrap seatpost, a super cheap seatpost or a cut-off section from a seatpost that someone has shortened.  

Cut about a 1" long piece of the seatpost and cross drill it so you can bolt it to the rack's mounting point.  Then mount your light on this short stub of seatpost using the supplied collar.


1008
Gear Talk / The $64,000 question...Riding gloves!
« on: September 08, 2007, 11:54:24 am »
If you insist on mesh backs your choices will be very limited.  Lycra backs are almost universal and the only "retro styled" mesh backed gloves I've seen are quite cheaply made.  


1009
Gear Talk / Touring Bike HELP!!
« on: August 21, 2007, 11:15:30 am »
The 520 is Trek's traditional loaded tourer. It has been in their line for many years and is highly thought of by its owners.  If you want a "real" touring bike, it will serve you well.

Your 1000, if it fits well,  should give you a pretty good idea of which size to order.


1010
Gear Talk / Front Derailer
« on: August 21, 2007, 11:25:16 am »
"Top Swing" front derailleurs have the mounting clamp below the parallelogram and are a new design used on MTB's  

"Bottom swing" fd's have the clamp above the operating mechanism and are the older, more traditional design.  Both MTB and road front derailleurs are available in bottom swing and all road front derailleurs I'm familiar with are bottom swing.

"Wide Links" mean the pivot links are wider than usual to improve rigidity and apply only to MTB derailleurs.


1011
Gear Talk / clip-in pedals
« on: September 24, 2007, 11:53:15 pm »
Im still using the stirrups.Honestly I like being able to jump off the bike in the shoes I prefer that day.Im not saying its better or that I wont switch eventually but this system works for me.
Once you finally try clipless pedals you'll kick yourself for not having done it sooner.  ;)

I personally would much rather carry an extra pair of shoes on the bike than go without clipless pedals.


1012
Gear Talk / clip-in pedals
« on: July 27, 2007, 11:39:45 pm »
"I've had very good performance from Speedplay Frog pedals. They are a MTB design, but work wonderfully for touring (lots of on and off the bike during the day). They imbed in MTB/touring shoes (I love Shimano's sandals BTW), thus you don't loudly announce your entry into every establishment."

Well, I've heard the opposite...
This is what a few lbs have said:
The cleats do not imbed into MTB shoes, they need road shoes - unless you're willing to cut up the soles of MTB shoes which is not reccomended. They also require little rubber caps for walking & still will mess with your stepping normally.


Frogs are indeed "MTB" pedals and use recessed cleats just like Shimano SPD's, Time Atacs, etc. I've used them on road bikes for well over 60,000 miles and have them on three bikes right now. They are light, double sided, easy to enter and exit and have plenty of float. They do not need protective caps and walking in them is quite normal.  

That said, while they are wonderful road pedals, they are not good MTB pedals.  The cleats are prone to clog in loose conditions and won't let you clip in.  I've had them jam with mud, ice and gravel so they are not really suited for heavy-duty off-road
use.  The up-side is that they never refuse to release so you can't be trapped.

This message was edited by DaveB on 7-27-07 @ 7:41 PM

1013
Gear Talk / BOB and old steel frames
« on: July 13, 2007, 11:45:08 am »
Your frame probably has 120 - 122 mm dropout spacing which was standard in the 5-speed freewheel days.

To make the BOB trailer fit, you could add spacers outside of the dropouts to build up the extra width needed to accept the BOB hitch.  

The problem you might have is keeping the rear wheel clamped tight enough.  I assume your frame has horizontal dropouts and the wheel can shift if it isn't very tight.

A better fix would be to cold-set the frame to 130 mm and replace the rear wheel with a current width (130 mm) hub and wheel.  That will solve the problem more fundamantally but at greater cost.  You can't just spread the dropouts and still use your present wheel.

This message was edited by DaveB on 7-13-07 @ 7:45 AM

1014
Gear Talk / Underwear
« on: August 21, 2007, 11:12:02 am »
There is no substitute for proper bicycling shorts. They are a serious piece of athletic wear designed for a specific purpose.  They are not a fashion statement.

Riding in jeans or street shorts is really self-flagellation. :)

If you are embarrassed to go into stores or restaurants wearing them, carry a pair of light nylon or thin cotton street shorts to put on over them when you get off the bike and pack them away when you get back on.


1015
Gear Talk / Bike recommendation (under 1200 dollars US)
« on: June 28, 2007, 01:22:25 pm »
Quote
Thats why I'm stuck with buying mine from the local dept. store and hoping I'll have a good bike , that will bring me miles of enjoyment .I just got my second bike . A hybrid Scwinn , and am hoping it will last longer than the first ( 2 weeks )....


This is a good illustration of the saying; "Only a rich man can afford cheap tools."  Buy cheap and you will not only get poor service, you will have to replace it very soon.  Good money after bad.

There is no reason to buy the most expensive bike but always buy quality.  The OP's original budget is well within the high-quality range.

I certainly agree with Russell Seaton.  I also don't understand why new cyclists with no experience always assume a "racing" (i.e., any drop bar) bike will be uncomfortable.  For long rides they are much more comfortable and efficient.


1016
Gear Talk / Facilities/Bike Shops in Anacortes
« on: May 24, 2007, 03:15:39 am »
I assume the stove fuel you need is NOT white gas but pressurized butane or butane/propane cannisters.  These will only be available in outdoor shops. Check for such stores in Anacortes too.


1017
Gear Talk / Facilities/Bike Shops in Anacortes
« on: May 20, 2007, 12:41:17 pm »
The cable lock and phone charger should be available in any Wal-Mart here unless you need have a very unusual phone.  Stove fuel will likely only be available in outdoor supply shops.  REI in Seattle is almost sure to have what ever cartridge you need but an e-mail to them would be worth it to be sure.  


1018
Gear Talk / REAR CASSETTE
« on: May 16, 2007, 09:19:19 pm »
Just a bried addendum to Russell's postings.  The 14x25 cassette is a bit of an odd-ball since it's intended for Junior racers who's bikes have gear restrictions so it's not commonly stocked by most dealers or mail order shops.  

Mix-and-matching of loose cogs and spacers is a great, and often cheaper, way to get the gearing you want.  As Russell noted, the cogs are all the same functionally.


1019
Gear Talk / REAR CASSETTE
« on: May 06, 2007, 08:11:42 pm »
The difference will be a 6.3% lower gear. If you have an MTB rear derailleur, it will handle the change.  Check to be sure your chain is long enough to cover the new big-big combination.

Also, please turn off the Caps Lock key. Your posting reads like you are shouting.


1020
Gear Talk / women's shorts
« on: April 20, 2007, 11:29:25 am »
i am doing my first century ride. it is actually my first ride, ever...

Do I read this correctly that the century will really be your FIRST bike ride?  If so, you need a lot more advice than just what shorts to wear.


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