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Messages - DaveB

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1006
General Discussion / Re: Any experience with Surly LHT forks
« on: September 12, 2009, 08:25:58 am »
No - can't get a trial run on this - the fork is on the bike, I cut the steerer yesterday, got the star nut and crown race installed today and put everything back together. Very short ride seemed okay but weather and other issues will prevent a reasonably long test ride for a few days.

Thanks, Ed
Please report back after you get an adequately long test ride as I'm interested in knowing how the fork change works out.   Also, see how the bikes handles with your touring load.  It will interesting to see how really noticable a major increase in trail like this is. 

1007
General Discussion / Re: Potential Resale Value
« on: September 11, 2009, 07:32:28 pm »
If bike prices here are attractive enough it might be a good move to buy here and then ship the bike back when you go home.   A shipping cost of $50 to $100 is probably typical if you take it on the airplane with you or ship it UPS or Fed-Ex.

Again, if you decide to buy here be CERTAIN the bike is in stock and waiting for you before you arrive.

1008
General Discussion / Re: Any experience with Surly LHT forks
« on: September 11, 2009, 07:28:37 pm »
Actually, the Cannondale fork rake is 53 mm, the Surly is listed as 45 mm, so if I go through with this project the result will be more sluggish handling and more stability in a straight line - correct? Is 8 mm difference between stock and the Surly enough to make this project a no-go?

Thanks again all! Ed
A difference of 8 mm will certainly make a noticable difference in handling response.  If the Cannondale's stock fork has a rake of 53 mm as you say, that implies the headtube angle must be quite shallow as the high rake value is needed to keep the trail measurement in the normal range.  Reducing the rake will give a lot more trail and will slow the handling and improve high speed stability but may also lead to some "wheel flop" tendencies at very low speeds.   Any way to try before you buy?

1009
General Discussion / Re: Any experience with Surly LHT forks
« on: September 09, 2009, 09:39:39 am »
The LHT fork has a bit more rake than the Cannondale fork, so you'll have a slightly wider wheelbase for a smooth ride....
The difference in rake will have a completely negligible influence on wheelbase.  It will, however, effect the handling and responsiveness of the bike.  More rake equates to less trail which will "quicken" the bikes handling, that is the bike will turn a bit more eagerly and be a bit less stable in a straight line.

Small differences in rake, say 2 or 3 mm, won't make a major change in responsiveness so it shouldn't be a problem.  I've replaced a fork with 40 mm of rake with one with 43 mm on a road bike and the handling change was minor.

1010
General Discussion / Re: component compatibility
« on: September 04, 2009, 11:54:00 am »
You can make a 10-speed shifter work properly and well with a 9-speed cassette and even mix and match Campy, Shimano and SRAM components.  The "secret" is to use the appropriate Jtek "Shiftmate" adapter. Look here: www.jtekengineering.com

I have one on a bike with Campy 10-speed Ergo brifters, a Shimano long cage 105 rear derailleur and a Shimano 9-speed cassette.  The bike shifts flawlessly all across the cassette with no compromises at either extreme. 

The advantages to 9-speed cassettes is that they are available with larger ogs in MTB configurations.  Shimano's 10-speed cassettes are limited to a 27T (or the new Dura Ace 28T) largest cog while MTB 9-speed cassettes are available with 32 or even 34T largest cogs.  You will need a MTB rear derailleur to use them.

1011
General Discussion / Re: Potential Resale Value
« on: September 02, 2009, 10:22:38 pm »
Not to mention the whole task of finding a dealer that you trust and ordering a bike that is your size.  Here, a 520 is around $1200.  Unless you can stay for free with friends, what are the costs of staying in a hotel while you wait for a dealer to get a 520 and build it up.
This brings up an important point, if you do plan to buy the bike after you get to the US, you MUST arrange for it well in advance.  Contact dealers and find one that will have exactly the bike you want, in the size you need and equipped as you want BEFORE you arrive.   You can pay by credit card to assure the dealer you are serious but be certain the bike is accounted for and in stock before you arrive. 

Do not arrive here cold expecting to buy what you want just by walking into a couple of dealers at the last minute.

1012
General Discussion / Re: Tips on keeping a touring group together
« on: September 01, 2009, 05:46:26 pm »
About the only advice you can rely on is to pick your companions VERY carefully.  Even otherwise lifelong friends can be very incompatible after days or weeks of close confinement with each other.

When I read the AC magazine's "Companions Wanted"  list every month I always wonder how those requests work out.  They are asking complete strangers to join them for an extended tour.  Talk about a crap shoot!

1013
General Discussion / Re: ACA Maps are Way Small.
« on: August 31, 2009, 10:23:00 am »
There is a cheap way to create "bifocals" from single vision glasses or non-prescription glasses and sunglasses.  These are stick-on flexible plastic patches that provide a reading glass area that shouldn't interfer with the regular distance vision portion of the glasses.  http://www.neoptx.com/

I've seen them at most Walgreens Drug stores in the reading glass display and they are about $10/pair.  Apparently Wal-Mart sells them too.  Well worth trying.  And, no, I don't have any interest, commercial or otherwise, in the company. 

1014
General Discussion / Re: Potential Resale Value
« on: August 30, 2009, 09:55:38 pm »
Generally used bikes lose a lot of their initial value very rapidly unless they are of great historical interest or can be shown to have been ridden by a very famous person. (I assume Lance's 2005 TdF winning bike is still worth a lot of money even used. :) )  Those owned by us ordinary folks aren't worth much.

You would be lucky to get 50% of the new cost back and that would require finding a willing buyer which will take some time.  Look on various Craigs List or E-bay sites to get a feel for what used touring bikes are going for. Unless you have absolutely no need for it back home, I'd ship it back after the trip.

1015
General Discussion / Re: ACA Maps are Way Small.
« on: August 30, 2009, 09:50:07 pm »
I expect AC has to balance legability with portability.  If the maps were much larger, they would be too awkward to fit in any handlebar bag holder or would cover such a small distance the number of sheets would be excessive.

1016
Gear Talk / Re: cranks
« on: August 29, 2009, 10:20:06 am »
I used hear that you replaced the chain and cluster together, and the rings every 3rd chain.
No, you change chainrings when they are worn out and not shifting properly. 

1017
General Discussion / Re: Why SPD pedals?
« on: August 29, 2009, 10:13:34 am »
Shimano did not license the SPD system to anyone.  It was invented in the early 1990s.  Its patent expired a few years later.  Then lots of Taiwanese Chinese companies started making copies of it.
If the SPD design was invented in the early 1990's, the patent wouldn't have expired until 17 years after it was granted or 2007 at the earliest.

If the design was patented in 1995 or later, the patent would still be in force as the term was changed to 20 years from the filing date.

The only possible way the Taiwanese, etc. could have legally copied the exact design is if it was patented in the early 1980's but not commercialized until much later.

1018
Gear Talk / Re: cranks
« on: August 28, 2009, 09:46:56 am »
I put more than 20k on my recumbent's bottom bracket and the cranks  have 34k on them. The chainrings have been replaced three times; rear cassette twice; five chains, maybe six.
david boise ID
I do have to ask why you changed your chainrings that often?  My experience is that under normal road use, chainrings last at least 20,000 miles and often myuch more.  I've gotten 30,000+ miles on several Shimano road cranks chainring sets and they still shifted cleanly and there was no chain skipping and, no I don't change chains all that often either.

The only truly worn out chainrings I've seen were on my son-in-laws bike.  He is a racer and very strong but it still took him 25,000 miles to wear them to the obvious replacement point.

1019
General Discussion / Re: Why SPD pedals?
« on: August 28, 2009, 09:39:24 am »

There are no regular pedals of any kind, road or mountain. Not even platforms or traps are regular any more.
SPD is a commonly used term that describes a more or less universally compatible cleat/pedal interface that Shimano has licensed to many mfrs. SPD is said to stand for Shimano Pedal Device but that's oepn for conjecture and argument.
david boise ID
For the record, "SPD" originally stood for "Shimano Pedaling Dynamics" and is a Shimano trademark.  You are correct that SPD has pretty much become a generic term for MTB-type clipless pedals whether made by Shimano, Look, Time, Wellgo or anyone else.  I'm sure Shimano's lawyers are busy defending the trademark. 

Shimano also applied the SPD term to their road pedals but they never dominated the market the way their MTB pedals do so it's not as much a catch-all term the way it is in the MTB world.

1020
Gear Talk / Re: cranks
« on: August 27, 2009, 09:14:26 pm »
2500 miles is still brand new for any decent crank, chainrings and bottom bracket unless the bike is ridden exclusively in harsh off-road conditions.  Are you experiencing any symptoms that indicate something is wrong?

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