Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - DaveB

Pages: 1 ... 67 68 [69] 70 71 ... 103
1021
General Discussion / Re: Transporting a bike: box or bag?
« on: October 07, 2009, 10:15:01 pm »
Rear stays aren't very strong when they don't have a wheel between them. I would want to stick an old hub or some kind of block in there is shipping a frame stripped down. When its buried in a duffel bag, no one knows that its a bike frame.
Forks aren't either so it's best to place a spacer in both the fork and rear dropouts no matter how you pack the bike for shipment.  Bikes shipped to bike shops have plastic fork spacers installed for shipment and you can get them free from any bike shop.

For routine shipping use, I've made reusable spacers from defunct hubs. Your bike shop shop should be able to provide these at no or minimal cost.  Mine were free for the asking.   

I removed the axles, cones and locknuts from the hub shell, threaded the cones back on and then add the locknuts to the bare axle.  Adjust the width between the locknuts to be a snug fit in the dropouts and tighten the cones against them to keep them in place.  Install these in the dropouts and use your qr skewers or, if you used threaded hubs, use the axle nuts to keep them secure.   

1022
General Discussion / Re: Transporting a bike: box or bag?
« on: October 06, 2009, 10:28:01 am »
A soft sided bag, large enough and padded enough to hold and protect a bike, isn't going to be much easier to store than a box. 

I recommend a bike box sourced from a dealer and HEAVILY reinforced with cross braces and padding.  Another possibility is to rent a hard-side bike box (Ironcase or similar) from a dealer if you can find one.

The recommendation to ship the bike by the local version of UPS or Fed-Ex is a good option and may be cheaper than the airline charges.

1023
General Discussion / Re: Southern Tier Weather
« on: October 02, 2009, 09:43:00 pm »
We are doing a charity ride planned for September 2010. Having seen the temperatures recently we were wondering if we should leave the trip until October or November and would welcome any advise from anyone who has past experience. We are attempting the whole journey in 30 days. Is this possible?
30 days?  That's an average of 100+ miles every day with no off-days at all.  How are you at doing 30 back-to-back centuries?  Do three or four consecutive century days and then decide if you can handle 10 times as many.




1024
Gear Talk / Re: Novara Randonee Crash
« on: October 01, 2009, 10:24:40 pm »
Thanks for all the help Im going to sell the bike.....
A crash severe enough to ruin a fork may have also damaged the frame.  Check it very carefully for a dented or crimped down tube and top tube and be sure the head tube wasn't ovalized by the impact.  Selling a damaged frame to some unsuspecting purchaser is not a good move. 

It may cost a bit to have the frame alignment and tube integrity checked by a bike shop but it will tell you if the frame is salable or should be discarded.

1025
General Discussion / Re: Potential Resale Value
« on: October 01, 2009, 10:20:07 am »
Another option is to buy a touring bike from a store like REI (www.rei.com) that offers an unconditional return policy. Buy it on the East Coast, return it in California. Not the best karma in my opinion, but it's an option (and I know someone who did it... not me!)
This may be possible as REI and some other retailers do have unconditional return policies but the morality and honesty of what you describe are very poor.  It sounds just like fraud to me.

1026
General Discussion / Re: Seat Problem
« on: September 26, 2009, 06:09:26 pm »
Saddles are like spouses, there is no one-size-fits-all.  For every report on a saddle that the rider is in love with, you will find someone else who hates it.

Part of the problem is having the saddle height and tilt correct and having the bike set up so your weight is divided between the saddle and the bars.  If you are very upright with all of your weight on the saddle, it's unlikely you will ever find one that's long-term comfortable.

1027
General Discussion / Re: Penna to Georgia
« on: September 26, 2009, 10:28:42 am »
Michelin has a "Mapquest-like" web site (www.viamichelin.com) that lets you specify you are on a bicycle when recommending routes.  For some reason it's limited to 200 km (124 mile) maximum segments but you could piece together a complete route in those increments.

1028
Gear Talk / Re: Info on Trainers please
« on: September 24, 2009, 12:19:31 pm »
They all work if you are looking to maintain fitness.  Fluid trainers are "non-linear" so resistance increases faster than "speed", which is what happens in real riding.  Magnetic trainers are usually linear so the effort is directly proportional to speed.  Unless you are looking for very realistic training either will do.  Elite is one well known brand.   

1029
General Discussion / Re: ocean in florence oregon
« on: September 16, 2009, 09:10:59 pm »
We drove through Florence on Highay 101 about three years ago and the town is very small.  There isn't anything in it more than a few blocks from the ocean. 

Use Google Earth or Google Maps and look up Florence, Oregon on either of them.  You will immediately see how close to the water everything is.

Starting further up (or down) the coast is a fine idea as the ride along it is breath taking but thinking Florence is too far from the ocean isn't a reason.

1030
General Discussion / Re: Any experience with Surly LHT forks
« on: September 12, 2009, 08:25:54 pm »
Given those endorsements, your conversion sounds very do-able.  I'm tuned.

1031
General Discussion / Re: Any experience with Surly LHT forks
« on: September 12, 2009, 08:25:58 am »
No - can't get a trial run on this - the fork is on the bike, I cut the steerer yesterday, got the star nut and crown race installed today and put everything back together. Very short ride seemed okay but weather and other issues will prevent a reasonably long test ride for a few days.

Thanks, Ed
Please report back after you get an adequately long test ride as I'm interested in knowing how the fork change works out.   Also, see how the bikes handles with your touring load.  It will interesting to see how really noticable a major increase in trail like this is. 

1032
General Discussion / Re: Potential Resale Value
« on: September 11, 2009, 07:32:28 pm »
If bike prices here are attractive enough it might be a good move to buy here and then ship the bike back when you go home.   A shipping cost of $50 to $100 is probably typical if you take it on the airplane with you or ship it UPS or Fed-Ex.

Again, if you decide to buy here be CERTAIN the bike is in stock and waiting for you before you arrive.

1033
General Discussion / Re: Any experience with Surly LHT forks
« on: September 11, 2009, 07:28:37 pm »
Actually, the Cannondale fork rake is 53 mm, the Surly is listed as 45 mm, so if I go through with this project the result will be more sluggish handling and more stability in a straight line - correct? Is 8 mm difference between stock and the Surly enough to make this project a no-go?

Thanks again all! Ed
A difference of 8 mm will certainly make a noticable difference in handling response.  If the Cannondale's stock fork has a rake of 53 mm as you say, that implies the headtube angle must be quite shallow as the high rake value is needed to keep the trail measurement in the normal range.  Reducing the rake will give a lot more trail and will slow the handling and improve high speed stability but may also lead to some "wheel flop" tendencies at very low speeds.   Any way to try before you buy?

1034
General Discussion / Re: Any experience with Surly LHT forks
« on: September 09, 2009, 09:39:39 am »
The LHT fork has a bit more rake than the Cannondale fork, so you'll have a slightly wider wheelbase for a smooth ride....
The difference in rake will have a completely negligible influence on wheelbase.  It will, however, effect the handling and responsiveness of the bike.  More rake equates to less trail which will "quicken" the bikes handling, that is the bike will turn a bit more eagerly and be a bit less stable in a straight line.

Small differences in rake, say 2 or 3 mm, won't make a major change in responsiveness so it shouldn't be a problem.  I've replaced a fork with 40 mm of rake with one with 43 mm on a road bike and the handling change was minor.

1035
General Discussion / Re: component compatibility
« on: September 04, 2009, 11:54:00 am »
You can make a 10-speed shifter work properly and well with a 9-speed cassette and even mix and match Campy, Shimano and SRAM components.  The "secret" is to use the appropriate Jtek "Shiftmate" adapter. Look here: www.jtekengineering.com

I have one on a bike with Campy 10-speed Ergo brifters, a Shimano long cage 105 rear derailleur and a Shimano 9-speed cassette.  The bike shifts flawlessly all across the cassette with no compromises at either extreme. 

The advantages to 9-speed cassettes is that they are available with larger ogs in MTB configurations.  Shimano's 10-speed cassettes are limited to a 27T (or the new Dura Ace 28T) largest cog while MTB 9-speed cassettes are available with 32 or even 34T largest cogs.  You will need a MTB rear derailleur to use them.

Pages: 1 ... 67 68 [69] 70 71 ... 103