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Messages - DaveB

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1096
Gear Talk / birdy
« on: March 06, 2006, 05:54:07 pm »
Quote
My only problem with the 520 is the weight,I will probably put 700c wheels on the Cannondale f2000sl,this will be cheaper anyhow.

I'm not familiar with the Cannondale f2000sl but what size wheels does it come with?  You can't just put 700c wheels on a bike with "26" wheels(ISO 559)because the brakes (cantilever, caliper or V-brakes) won't line up with the rims.  

If it has disc brakes you could lace 700c rims to the existing hubs but that won't be cheap and you have to be sure the fork and frame clearances are sufficient.

I think you are making too much of an issue about the 520's weight.  If you don't need them, take off the racks and it will be at least a kilo lighter.






1097
Gear Talk / Kick stands
« on: February 26, 2006, 01:29:06 pm »
No.  They have to be clamped to the frame behind the bottom bracket or to a chain stay.  They won't hurt a "water pipe" frame but I'd never fit one to a thin wall steel or any Al frame.

Otherwise, unnecesary weight, poor stability and useless if you have to lock the bike to any stationary object for security.  I never found anyplace without something to lean the bike against.

This message was edited by DaveB on 2-26-06 @ 9:29 AM

1098
Gear Talk / Koga no customer service
« on: March 03, 2006, 12:46:04 pm »
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I'd also advise not ordering a mail order bike from St. John Street Cycles since you really need to be your own mechanic on mail order bikes and parts.  

This is excellent advice and should be taken to heart by all riders. If you aren't a sufficiently skilled mechanic, buy your parts and bikes from a good local dealer or expect to pay a high premium for dealer service on parts you bought elsewhere.  

I read a number of Bike Mechanics Forums and it's appaling how many questions are posed like: "I just bought XYZ from E-bay.  How do I install it and how do I use it?"

The time to learn is BEFORE you buy, not after.


1099
Gear Talk / Koga no customer service
« on: February 26, 2006, 01:21:17 pm »
I'm not familiaar with Koga bicycles but from your letter it seems to me your problems were primarily due to dealer incompetence.  The handlebar and rear wheel were not secure?  The chain jammed? These are dealer set up problems.  

The dealer is expected to go over the bike and adjust it. That's what they are there for and a reasonable level of competence and attention to detail are the least you should expect.  It sounds like you got neither.

Maybe Koga isn't a well made brand and you should replace it but the problems sound more dealer related at this point.  


1100
Gear Talk / bike choice
« on: February 26, 2006, 01:25:17 pm »
Bike Friday's are very highly thought of here in the US.  They are pretty much a custom proposition and priced accordingly. My son-in-law has one and I've ridden it a bit.    

In general, they make great travel bikes but I don't think you'd want one as a daily rider.  


1101
Gear Talk / Convert 8-speed to 9-speed?
« on: February 21, 2006, 11:58:53 am »
The change from 8-speed to 9-speed will require at a minimum a new cassette, a new chain and new shifters.  These will cost WAY more than the $50 difference so either be content with 8-speed or buy the 9-speed right off.

BTW, 8-speed components are getting hard to find since upgrading to 9-speed or 10-speed allows you to use the same wheels and rear derailleurs so when 8-speed stuff wears out, most riders do the upgrade.

My recommendation?  Pay the slight difference and go with 9-speed right off the bat.  


1102
Gear Talk / Schwinn Derailler
« on: February 18, 2006, 09:29:39 pm »
The derailleur doesn't define whether it's friction or indexing, the shifters do.  With friction shifters ANY make derailleur will work if, as noted, it can "wrap up" enough chain for your current gearing.


1103
Gear Talk / Windsor Tourist? Is this a good bike?
« on: February 23, 2006, 11:55:26 am »
You are planning a TransAmerica tour and you are willing to trust an unknown bike from an unknown assembler to save a few bucks?  Sounds like very false economy to me.  

I recommend you seriously reconsider Trek, REI, Cannondale or other known suppliers.  You will have the comfort of knowing that they are well established, their bike are a known quantity and if there is a problem, you have a waranty and local dealers that can help you.


1104
Gear Talk / Importance of Disk Brakes?
« on: February 07, 2006, 11:27:45 am »
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The only brakes out there that are sometimes not suitable for touring are the caliper brakes found on road bikes.  This is because there isn't adequate braking power while going down steep descents when loaded.

That's really not correct.  Modern double pivot caliper brakes have plenty of power and excellent modulation at reasonable hand pressure.  

Their disadvantage is limited clearance for fat tires and/or fenders.  Even "long reach" calipers don't offer the clearance that V-brakes or cantilevers do.

This message was edited by DaveB on 2-7-06 @ 7:28 AM

1105
Gear Talk / Why can't I use a carbon fiber bike with a trailer
« on: February 07, 2006, 11:23:03 am »
Quote
The rims will also crack when they are just worn out by the rubbing of the brakes.  I think it is unlikely they cracked just because of the added weight.


Rims generally crack in one of two places:  

First is just what you reported, the brake track cracks from abrasive wear.  I've had several rims fail that way in from 11,000 to 30,000 miles depending oh how they were used, how much bad weather they were exposed to and how durable the rim was to begin with.  Very light rims are, obviously, less durable and less wear resistant.

The second mode of cracking is around the spoke holes which is a fatigue failure or caused by excessive spoke tension or poor rim design/material.

The tongue weight of a trailer is unlikely to accelerate either mode of failure.    


1106
Gear Talk / Fenders
« on: March 17, 2006, 10:24:46 am »
Partial fenders are not nearly as good as full coverage fenders but are certainly better than doing without.  There are a lot of road bikes with frame, fork and brake clearances that won't allow full fenders so only clip-on partials will fit.

If full fenders fit, use them but, if not, anything is better than nothing.


1107
Gear Talk / Touring Rear Wheel Recommedations
« on: December 05, 2005, 02:24:39 pm »
Quote
I know that Phil Wood sells a 48 spoke tandem hub which  is very reliable but quite expensive.  I don't if any others are available.


"Quite expensive" is a gross understatement.  Absurdly expensive is closer to the truth.  Also, a Tandem hub has a dropout spacing of 140 mm or more.  It won't fit most road, touring or MTB frames.

The need for 40 or 48 spokes for a single bike of any kind is a left-over from the era of plated spokes and weak rims.  Modern 32 or 36 hole rims with DT or Wheelsmith spokes will hold up for years under any reasonable conditions.  Current MTBs use 32 hole rims and 14 ga or 14/15/14ga spokes and they can be subject to stresses no touring bike will ever see.  How about a 19" low gear being cranked up a 30% grade by a strong 190 pound rider?  If those wheels survive, so will yours.

Finally 14/15/14 butted spokes are actually more durable than straight 14 ga spokes.  The thinner center section is a bit more resiliant and cushions the spoke ends.  Remember, except for severe mechanical damage, spokes always break at the head or the nipple end so the "weaker" center is not the failure point.

This message was edited by DaveB on 12-5-05 @ 10:32 AM

1108
Gear Talk / Front Fork. Carbon vs Steel?
« on: December 05, 2005, 10:50:45 am »
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All forks have rake, even straight-bladed forks.  In those cases, the rake is done at the fork crown and the fork blades come out at an angle to the steerer tube and place the wheel in same position as if the fork had a visibile rake.


Thank you.  You saved me the trouble of typing exactly the same thing.  There is so much mis-understanding as to what rake and trail are and what their relationship is.  


1109
Gear Talk / Difference Longer Crank Length Makes
« on: November 16, 2005, 02:04:11 pm »
Your personal results may differ but every controlled study I've seen published says crank length has no effect on power output even over a much wider range of lengths than you have tried.  

In one of the better known studies, Lennard Zinn did  extensive testing using a wide range of riders of varying heights, leg lengths and riding styles and cranks from 160 mm to over 200 mm long.  His findings said there was no correlation with crank length and power output.  Some riders expressed a preference for one length or another but there was no objective improvement from their use.  

Short answer: use what you like but don't expect any significant improvement in power or speed. Your recent results may have been because you were expecting a difference and the outcome was self-fulfilling.  I don't think it will last long term.  


1110
Gear Talk / touring shoes
« on: November 12, 2005, 10:42:58 am »
Shimano makes a specific touring shoe (SH-T092 is the current version) that is styled like a road shoe but has a recessed cleat pocket in an otherwise flat sole.  It doesn't have the awkward lugs of an MTB shoe but allows easy walking and accepts all SPD-type and Speedplay Frog cleats.  

I've been using the previous model (SH-T090)for several years. They work extremely well and are durable. The sole is stiff enough for good pedaling and to avoid "hot spots" from cleat pressure and they are a comfortable fit, at least for me.    

They don't seem to appear in any of the mail order catalogs but any LBS can get them for you.

Lake makes a sort-of universal touring shoe that accepts both SPD and Look road pattern cleats in a recessed sole but it is a lot heavier and clunkier than the Shimano model.  

As to the simplicity of "good old" (IMHO, more old than good) clips and straps, the comfort, efficiency and reliability of modern clipless pedals are so good that I would never consider going back to them unless I was touring in the darkest reaches of the third world.    




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