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Messages - DaveB

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Gear Talk / touring shoes
« on: November 12, 2005, 10:42:58 am »
Shimano makes a specific touring shoe (SH-T092 is the current version) that is styled like a road shoe but has a recessed cleat pocket in an otherwise flat sole.  It doesn't have the awkward lugs of an MTB shoe but allows easy walking and accepts all SPD-type and Speedplay Frog cleats.  

I've been using the previous model (SH-T090)for several years. They work extremely well and are durable. The sole is stiff enough for good pedaling and to avoid "hot spots" from cleat pressure and they are a comfortable fit, at least for me.    

They don't seem to appear in any of the mail order catalogs but any LBS can get them for you.

Lake makes a sort-of universal touring shoe that accepts both SPD and Look road pattern cleats in a recessed sole but it is a lot heavier and clunkier than the Shimano model.  

As to the simplicity of "good old" (IMHO, more old than good) clips and straps, the comfort, efficiency and reliability of modern clipless pedals are so good that I would never consider going back to them unless I was touring in the darkest reaches of the third world.    

Gear Talk / Fenders
« on: November 07, 2005, 06:59:28 pm »
I have SKS/Esge fenders on my early 80's Trek "rain bike" and they work very well.  Zefal makes similar fenders so buy what you can find.  There is no significant performance difference.  Mounting is straight forward if your fork and rear dropouts have mounting holes and they come in silver and black so the color is a "one size fits most".

My fenders came with steel mounting screws (M5x.8) but replacing them with nylon screws is safer.  If something gets wedged between the tire and fender. The nylon screws will break and allow the wheel to keep turning.

Fenders make a tremendous difference on wet roads and in light rain.  They keep your shoes dryer and prevent the black streak from forming on your back.

In a downpour, nothing helps.

Gear Talk / skillets
« on: November 12, 2005, 10:21:23 am »
Apparently some of these coating use teflon, and at certain tempertures in the right conditions, it was was said to taint the food.

This was another of the usual overstated scare items that show up about nearly everything.  If you get current non-stick cookware hot enough to damage the coating, the food has become a cinder anyway.  Teflon is so inert that it is used in surgical applications.  Your concerns are unfounded.

Gear Talk / skillets
« on: October 31, 2005, 12:40:23 pm »
It sounds like the coating was defective.  They aren't THAT fragile. I'd contact Coleman about a warranty replacement.

Gear Talk / skillets
« on: October 30, 2005, 10:03:30 am »
Did you use a metal spatula to scrape the pan?  Most non-stick coatings are pretty fragile and the use of plastic utensils is almost universally recommended by the makers.

Gear Talk / Where to learn about bike parts?
« on: October 25, 2005, 12:18:17 pm »
There is also the Park Tool website ( that is a very valuable resource for bike repair and maintainance techniques.  You may not be interested in building a bike up yourself yet but knowing how it's done can be very useful information.

Gear Talk / Cello Bike Case
« on: October 11, 2005, 10:19:59 pm »
Oh, it's a case for a bike!  When I saw the thread title, I thought you wanted to carry a cello on your bike! :)

It's not that far fetched really, I tour with a guy who brings a guitar.

This message was edited by DaveB on 10-11-05 @ 6:20 PM

Gear Talk / A chain is a chain is a chain....or is it?
« on: September 08, 2005, 12:13:08 pm »
For practical purposes, specific 5 and 6-speed chains aren't available anymore. They both can use "8-speed" chains with no problems.

7 and 8-speed setups use the same chains which are now referred to as 8-speed chains.  Shimano's HG (road) and IG (MTB) 8-speed chains both work fine with road components.  HG 8-speed chains aren't recommended for MTB use but do work.

9-speed drivetrains need a 9-speed chain which is narrower than the others and 10-speeds need a 10-speed chain which is narrower still.

There are no road or MTB specific 9-speed chains and no 10-speed MTB components at all.

Shimano chains require a special pin to install and reinstall if they are removed.  SRAM and Wipperman chains come with a masterlink that allows removal and replacement without tools.  All chains require a good chain tool to shorten them, if required, when they are first installed.  

Buy the middle quality model in any maker's line.  The cheapest aren't as durable and the most expensive are generally just the mid-line chain with a prettier finish.

For your first replacement chain, buy from your dealer and have them install it. Once you know what to buy, have the proper tool and know how to use it, you can replace them yourself.

One other warning.  If you have a lot of miles on your chain, it is quite possible the new chain will skip badly on your current cassette cogs, particularly the cogs you use the most.  You may want to consider changing the chain and cassette together.  

Gear Talk / Atlantis, Mercian or Bob Jackson
« on: September 09, 2005, 08:58:42 pm »
respacing mountain bike rear derailleurs from 135mm to 130mm by removing washers/spacers.

Please explain this.  Dropout spacing can be altered from 130 to 135 mm and hub width can be altered between 130 and 135mm but how can a rear derailleur be respaced?  

Gear Talk / Rear Wheel
« on: September 01, 2005, 07:18:43 pm »
I ride on 30 year old Phil Woods with these Mavic rims and 3x DT spokes. Like I said - bulletproof.

The only problem is that your Phil Wood hubs require freewheels. Quality freewheels are getting very hard to find, are available in limited cog ranges and absolutely no one makes a 9-speed freewheel.  

Phil Wood still offers freewheel rear hubs at $140 (hub only) but these have all the drawbacks I mentioned above.

Phil Wood does make freehubs splined for Shimano cassettes.  The drawback is these things cost $360 just for the hub!

LX or XT hubs will last an extremely long time if given even a slight amount of care, can be maintained by anybody, their cost is very reasonable and they take a huge range of readily available cassettes.

Gear Talk / compact double or triple for low gears?
« on: July 19, 2005, 04:45:12 pm »
Some thoughts:

Shimano doesn't make a 13x29 cassette.  Only Campy does and you can't use it on a Shimano hub or with Shimano shifters.

The widest range Shimano 9 or 10-speed road cassette is 12x27.  Shimano makes 12x32 and 11x32 MTB cassettes but only in 9-speed form.

Sheldon Brown at Harris Cyclery has custom Shimano 9-speed road cassettes in 13x30 and 13x32 format. I don't know if he has them in 10-speed yet.

Nine speed components will be obsolete quite soon. Dura Ace and Ultegra are already 10-speed and 105 will be next year.  9-speed components will be available for quite a while but will be special order only.  That's the problem with the F70.

A compact crank is limited to a 34T small chainring and there is no way you can get the same low gear as a triple.  Most road triples come stock with a 30T granny ring which can be cheaply changed out for a 26T.  This works fine and I've done it on a dozen 8 and 9-speed cranks.  A 26x25 gives a 28" low gear and a 26x27 gives a 26" low gear.  You can have super low gears with a reasonable range cassette like a 12x25 or 12x27 and not have to change the rear derailleur or have huge gaps in the cassette gearing.  

Compact cranks with a normal double front derailleur don't shift ideally but they are still very good.  The "special" front derailluers marketed by FSA and Campy only provide a slight improvement.  I wouldn't let that influence me one way or the other.  

Gear Talk / Which camera???
« on: August 16, 2005, 09:14:26 pm »
There are several advantages to a digital camera over a conventional film camera for trip use.  

1. You can "proof" your shots immediately and redo the ones that didn't come out the way you wanted them to.  You can erase the mistakes and not waste film or storage capacity on unwanted photos.  Instant gratification can be important if you are unlikely to ever be in that location again.

2. You can "process" digital shots by burning them onto CD's at any office supply or X-Mart and mail them home.  You don't have to carry exposed film or mail bulky prints.  That allows you to erase the camera's storage card and start over fresh.

3. The number of shots you can take on a reasonable size storage card with a moderate megapixel camera way exceeds any roll of film.  Two cards, to provide a backup, are far smaller and lighter any even one roll of film and have a huge advantage in capacity.

4. Battery life for a digital camera is not as good as a film camera but if your camera uses AA batteries, their life is adequate and replacements are cheap and available nearly everywhere.  

I certainly agree that any good quality film camera with ISO 100 film is capable of resolution far exceeding all but the most expensive professional level digital camera.  So what?  Unless you plan on wall-size enlargements the benefit is moot.

Gear Talk / Aero Bars
« on: May 25, 2005, 03:41:11 am »
My flat bar is a riser bar (not sure what the technical  term is)and it curves up a bit on either side of the stem.  Is this going to stop me all together from  mounting aero bars?

It shouldn't.  The Century bars (and several others, I believe) mount almost flush up against the stem so you only need an inch or so of straight bar on each side of the stem.  I expect your bars are "flat" for at least that distance.


Gear Talk / Aero Bars
« on: May 20, 2005, 11:56:50 pm »
The cyclometer mount I made sounds like the same design as yours except I started with nominal 3/4" heavy wall PVC pipe (actual OD=.84" or almost 7/8") instead of wood.  I hollowed the ends with a half round file to match the curve of the extension bars and got a snug, non-rocking fit.  I then drilled through the each end of the pipe at 90° with a 1/4" drill bit so I could run a zip-tie through the holes and around the aero bar extension to keep it in place. It is sturdy and stable and may indeed be suitable for a headlight mount.  I've just never done it.  I see where the light beam can go if you mount the Century bars pointed upward slightly.  

Schedule 80 PVC pipe is extremely strong and will take any abuse wood will and then some.

The upshot of all of this is that you can adapt aero bars to mount whatever accessories you need.

My note about gusty winds was intended as an example  that there are some conditions that make the use of aerobars less desirable.  If you are on the bars and get hit by an unexpected side gust, it's going to bounce you around.  Just be aware.  

Gear Talk / Aero Bars
« on: May 20, 2005, 02:06:33 pm »
I also have a set of Profile Century bars and use them on a bike I ride in Florida where the extra weight (~450 grams) isn't a consideration, since there are no hills worth mentioning, but the wind can be unrelenting. For that use they are a real advantage.  

BTW, I got mine for $13 ;p on the "returns" table at Nashbar when they still had a outlet store near Youngstown, Ohio.  

The Century bars, as John mentioned, don't have flip-up armrests so you can't put your hands on the bar tops anywhere near the stem.  For me, this is not a minor disadvantage.  If I were riding with aero bars all the time, I'd spend the extra money for a set that had flip-up armrests.

I made a mount for my cyclometer by zip-tying a short piece of 3/4" PVC pipe between the bar extensions and building up the diameter to 26 mm with electrical tape. It cost nearly nothing and is plenty secure for the cyclometer.  I don't think it would hold a headlight adequately and your arms would interfere with the light beam anyway.  An underbar light mount is probably the only thing that will work.

One other thing about aero bars, the extra weight out front makes the steering more touchy. No-hands riding is difficult which indicates you have to be more attentive under normal circumstances. They require some getting used to before riding on them is comfortable and gusty sidewinds can be a problem.  Like everything they have their upside and disadvantages.    

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