Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - DaveB

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 86
Gear Talk / Re: Rear Rack with Salsa Alternator Dropouts
« on: April 03, 2014, 02:34:36 pm »
I looked at Salsa's web site and read the instructions for these dropouts.  It seems to me is that they are a very complex way to work around providing horizontal dropouts.  They maintain vertical dropouts but allow the horizontal movement needed to obtain proper chain adjustment for IGH and single speed use. 

To get that adjustability, you give up a lot of simplicity and the ability to use off-the-shelf racks and, I presume, fenders.

Gear Talk / Re: Making wheels stronger with a mixed spoke pattern.
« on: April 03, 2014, 06:09:38 am »
First, four cross is usually used for higher spoke count wheels, and two cross for lower spoke count wheels.  The idea, as I understand it, is to get the spokes coming off the hub at roughly a right angle to the radius through the center of the hub.  Are you advocating going to a 48 spoke wheel?  If you're using 4x with 36 spoke wheels, are you coming off the hub at an acute angle?
A 36 hole rim and hub laced 4X will produce a tangential spoke line and is the smallest number of holes that will allow 4X lacing

Second, the ping you note as a new wheel is ridden is caused by windup of the spoke during tensioning and truing.  This is normally fixed (by a skilled wheelbuilder) by over-correcting and then backing off during final truing.  I don't see this as something that can be corrected by changing the length and angle of a spoke.
Correct.  "Pinging" is prevented by proper stress relieving of the spoke line, lubing the spoke threads and preventing or correcting spoke wind-up during tensioning.  The wheel's construction geometry is not a factor.

Third, the wheel is centered by balancing the tension of the right and left side spokes.  If you're using the same number of spokes on each side, as is the case for every wheel I know of on the market now, you can lengthen or shorten the spokes on the left (non-drive) side, but the tension will have to stay the same unless you pull the rim off-center.  With the same tension on the spokes, keeping the wheel centered, the only change is going to be frictional losses as the (almost) unloaded spoke shifts.  This is unlikely to be significant, and so I doubt you'll change the load the wheel can take before a spoke goes to zero tension.

A better approach might be to replace box rims with a stiffer (V) rim.  The V rim adds some structural rigidity, meaning you share the load across more spokes.  This, in turn, means you can carry a larger load on the V wheel without the spoke losing tension.
As noted by mathieu there are asymmetrically spoked wheels these days but how much is structural and how much is a fashion statement is debatable.  One way to balance the required tension differences with a dished wheel is to use thinner spokes on the non-drive side.  Say 2.0/1.8/2.0 on the drive side and 2.0/1.6/2.0 on the non-drive side.

I agree that a deeper section, more rigid rim is also a benefit in reducing the stress load cycling as a wheel is loaded and unloaded.   

Gear Talk / Re: Thinking about another tour but need a new groupset
« on: March 31, 2014, 04:13:06 pm »
Most touring bikes have MTB or friction shifters so that they can use MTB derailleurs.
I don't think this is correct any longer as most of the touring bikes I see advertised have brifters.  They can use MTB 9-speed rear derailleurs with 9 or 10-speed cassettes and brifters and have to use a road front derailleur.  The touring bikes with barend shifters have a more latitude with their front derailleur choice but the same rear derailleur limitation.

Gear Talk / Re: Thinking about another tour but need a new groupset
« on: March 31, 2014, 05:52:17 am »
Does your bike have drop bars or flat bars?  If it has flat bars, you can pick nearly any MTB group.  If it has drop bars all MTB front derailleurs and newer 10-speed MTB rear derailleurs won't work with road indexed shifters/brifters.  Let me know what you now have and perhaps a better recommendation can be made. 

Gear Talk / Re: Disc Trucker + Schwalbe Marathon Deluxe.. rim?
« on: March 31, 2014, 05:43:49 am »
The difference in actual tire size between 700-37 and 700-38 will be minimal and may be absolutely nothing depending on how truthful the published sizes really are.   The 700-35 is also going to be very close in installed size to the others.  You are agonizing over trivial differences. 

The stock rims will certainly handle any of these tires and, in general rims are very tolerant of a range of tire sizes.  Cyclocross riders routinely  fit 700-30 and even larger tires to narrow road rims.

I'll second Pat Lamb's recommendation to wear out the original tires first before "upgrading" to the Schwalbes.  Why spend the money when you have a very suitable set of tires now? 

General Discussion / Re: First Bike Tour
« on: March 30, 2014, 09:37:29 am »
Sure, as I said, bad things can happen even to a well maintained bike but I was responding to Jambi's statement that; "you will have to put a lot of maintenance along the way".  Its not by any means a certainty if you do your homework first and start with decent equipment.

General Discussion / Re: First Bike Tour
« on: March 30, 2014, 06:34:19 am »
Knowing his to fix your bike is really important as well. Simple stuff like replacing links in a chain can really make a difference and you will have to put a lot of maintenance along the way. My first tour was when I was 19 (San Francisco. - DC). And I knew little about repairing my bike. I had some uncertain times with my bike and was my biggest regret.
A good quality bike in well maintained condition should not require a lot of maintenance even over a 4000 mile tour.  Chain lubing and tire pressure should be the only routine items with wearing out or damaging a tire as a possibility.  If you start with the components in good shape cables, shifters, brake pads, chains, wheels, etc. should last the duration of the trip with no problems.  The operative term is "good quality" and X-Mart level bikes don't qualify.

However, that's not to say bad things can't happen even to good bikes so knowing how to do your own repairs and having a few essential tools (Allen wrenches, chain tool, tire levers, etc.) and spare parts (shift and brake cable, brake pads, tubes, chain master link or joining pins) should be considered essential as is the ability to use them.   

Gear Talk / Re: Handlebar bag alternative
« on: March 29, 2014, 10:25:47 am »
As mentioned by staehpj1, a small to medium fanny pack is a good place to carry things you want easy access to and things you don't want to get separated from like your wallet and phone.   I use one on my rack-less road bike to carry a jacket and other bad weather bail-out items.

General Discussion / Re: Weight training and cycling
« on: March 29, 2014, 04:56:05 am »
Big and strong, or at least big, is a negative for cycling as upper body muscle mass is just "dead weight" for riders.  So, your weight lifting is always going to compromise your cycling ability and all you can do is reach a balance that satisfies you.  If you are going to ride for recreation or fitness or to commute, the reduction in cycling ability won't be a problem.   Just don't plan to be a competitive rider. 

General Discussion / Re: Weight training and cycling
« on: March 28, 2014, 01:59:36 pm »
Bicycling requires very high repetitions at moderate force.  Most weight training emphasizes very high effort and limited repetitions so it's not specific to bicycling unless modified to achieve that end.  Most of the bicycle-specific weight programs I've seen emphasize the use of light weight at high reps. 

Gear Talk / Re: Fixing a shimano shifter.....
« on: March 27, 2014, 05:56:50 am »
Hi, my shimano shifter stick has become very loose, which is affecting the gear shifting. There is a bolt that holds the unit together, but i can't tighten it fully with a wrench or pliers because it's housed with a partial cover. Has anyone had this problem or know how to fix it?
What type and model is it?  Brifter?  Downtube?  Barend?  Road or MTB?  A lot more detail is needed. Pictures would be a great help too.

General Discussion / Re: Tools for adventure
« on: March 27, 2014, 05:53:28 am »
Know how to use your tools.
That's the big thing!  Having tool but not knowing what to do with them makes them useless weight or makes a bad situation worse if they are miss-used. There is a saying among bike shop mechanics that; "a spoke wrench in the wrong hands is our greatest source of wealth".

General Discussion / Re: Tools for adventure
« on: March 25, 2014, 09:09:02 am »
+1. I used to think a chain tool was unnecessary. I rode across the country with 13 people. Over 52,000 bike miles. Not one chain problem. Never had a chain problem on any other tour. Then last Saturday I was on a group ride on my LHT when my drivetrain started skipping even in friction mode. It kept getting worse so I dropped out of the ride and stopped to take a throrough look down. That's when I discovered that half the outside plate of my speed link was literally missing. Fortunately, I was able to spin to a bike shop about 1.5 miles away. Got it replaced in 10 min. at a cost of $5 and change, which was slightly more than it would have cost to take the train home.

I will be getting a chain tool and some spare links this weekend, wiill learn how to make the necessary repairs and will be never take another trip without them.
I've always carry a very small chain tool, a 25 gm Ritchey CT-5, now out of production.  I've never needed it for my own bike but have helped three other riders over the years.  One broke a chain when his wheel threw a piece of tramp wire into it, another had joined his chain improperly and the third had mis-set limit screws and jammed his chain into his crenk.  So, a chain tool is certainly a useful addition and replacement master links a necessity.

General Discussion / Re: Tools for adventure
« on: March 25, 2014, 05:46:06 am »
Allen wrenches, chain tool, spoke wrench and a leatherman.
This is a start. 

Take the Allen wrenches that fit your bike, typically 3,4,5,6 and perhaps 8 mm if your crank bolts need it.  Get good quality wrenches and be sure they are long enough to be useful.  Many multi-tools have all of these sizes but are shaped so they aren't really functional. 

Open end or box wrenches in 8,9 and 10 mm may be useful or completely unneeded depending on your bike.

A small chain tool and include a short length of chain plus a couple of suitable master links or Shimano's joining pins if you have a Shimano chain.

A spoke wrench to match your spoke nipples is also good.

Small screwdrivers, flat blade and Phillips, can be useful.

Small needle nose pliers.

The obvious; tire levers, spare tubes, patch kit, minipump.

Spare parts within reason like one brake and one shift cable, brake pads, etc.

Gear Talk / Re: Retiring, getting into self contained touring
« on: March 19, 2014, 12:44:17 pm »
  You do not need disk brakes, but please do not be worried about reliabilty or performance.
I still read way too many reports of noise, disc run-out, slow wheel changes, alignment problems and pad clearance issues to recommend disc brakes to the rider who isn't pretty well versed in mechanical issues.  Yes, they work.  No, they aren't simple, even mechanical discs, and hydraulics bring an entire set of issues of their own.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 86