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Messages - Spokey

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31
GPS Discussion / Re: Routing Software
« on: June 23, 2011, 11:14:30 am »
Did you take a look at ridewithgps.com? Our club has been using it for routes for some time. Lot of folks use it, just beware that the computed elevation gains aren't necessarily correct.

Craig

I took a quick look and it looks promising.  It's a little expensive for casual use although probably fine for a club.  I'll have to see if the paid version offers things I might want above what the 'free' version has.   

The one problem I did have with a simple route to my sister's (~26 miles) was changing it.  The original route went down a US highway.  I take a parallel route with less (although just as fast) traffic and few tractor trailers.  I could easily change to the parallel road and made a couple other adjustments.  Worked about the same as the MS and Garmin software.  The problem showed when I wanted to tweak the route near my house.  I kind of wanted to go around the block the long way.  Every time I moved the route to do that, the software changed the route back to the US highway.  And when I pulled it back to the county road, the 'around the block' change flipped back to the original.

32
GPS Discussion / Re: Routing Software
« on: June 23, 2011, 12:42:00 am »
Quote
"you can't change bike routes." You can drag the route to another road, but not add new roads.

Yes, while I am creating a route, I can do all that.  Two problems. 

1.  The only time the 'save' link/button shows up for me is if I am in 'car' mode.  Biking or walking can't be saved as best I can tell.  Maybe the save button moves somewhere else that I haven't found yet, but. . .

2.  Sometimes when I switch to 'car' mode, it changes the route.  Now I can drag it back again, but that is a pain.  I don't know why you can't save in bike or walk mode.

Also, I can't figure out how to get Google to route an uploaded set of AC points.  All the points show fine.  I can choose the first point as a start and the last point as the destination.  As soon as I click "Get Directions", all the intermediate points disappear.

Quote
MapSource does all those things, but it's Windows and OS X only, AFAIK.

I'll have to check mine again.  That might be OK.  Mostly for what I'm trying to do here is local rides so doing a route and printing it is fine.  For trips I use ACA maps where appropriate but it would be nice to have an electronic standby.  So admittedly, I'm mixing a couple uses here.

Quote
Google Maps is a web site. It does not clog up a device. The browser on your Droid might do that, as might Google Earth. Perhaps you need a better-suited device. My Win XP netbook does fine.

Actually no.  Google maps is not a web site, it is what everyone loves to call a 'cloud' application.  I guess that is because client server is so passe.  A browser is just one way to access Google maps.   I don't use the browser on the Droid to look at maps.  Google provides an interface / application in the base android OS (at least the Droid, don't know about other android versions) to Google maps.  To start with it doesn't show any of your maps.  To show a map, you use what Google calls 'layers'.  Layers are lots of things that you can layer on a map.  Traffic, satellite, terrain, transit lines are all layers.  AND, your maps are layers.   You choose your map and everything is OK for now.

But let's say you have lots of routes.  Maybe you are club ride coordinator.  Eventually you'll bring all those maps in.  Plus you've done a one-off map to Aunt Millie's, to the grocery store, etc etc.  Every map that you have shown at least once stays in the Droid in that Google interface.  Even if you delete it from Google maps using your browser, it remains in the list unless as I said before, you uninstall and reinstall.  You can find a lot of complaints about this over in the Google forums.  Just one example from over a year ago.  You'll notice that one of the posters says exactly the same thing.  Uninstall updates then re-install to get rid of unwanted routes in your list.  Yes, should be simple, but . . .

Thanks for the mapsource note.  I will look at mine again to see if it does what I want.  I think I can save gpx so that might be start.


33
GPS Discussion / Routing Software
« on: June 22, 2011, 06:24:52 pm »
Ok, I'm frustrated.

Hopefully this doesn't turn in to a rant.  I'm looking for software to create routes.  Below is my take on using various products so you know where I'm coming from.

I find Google maps non-workable.  You can't change bike routes and there are other problems with it.  It clogs up my Droid with old crap that I can't get rid except by uninstalling updates and reinstalling them.

I've looked at some online alternatives and don't see a good solution.  The best idea is at bikeroutetoaster.com/.  Except I can't get it to work well.  It goes berserk (that's the only way I can explain it) when I try to change the route (like my relatively straight route turning in to a starfish).  or I move a point and nothing happens.

I have used DeLorme in the past but probably the most recent version is probably 2002 or so.  I found it hard to use, but that may be because I've been using (& writing software for) windows since around '85 (yeah I actually owned windows 1). 

I actually liked Microsoft Streets and Maps (2002 version) the best from a usability standpoint.  A couple problems with that is that it won't allow you to add a road like DeLorme so you're stuck where they think a car will go.    That version also doesn't do GPS.

I have the Garmin Mapsource software that I think came with my newest non-gps heart monitor but I have a couple Garmin devices so I'm not sure.  I think it is a toss up between Garmin and MS for actually drawing a route.  But Mapsource doesn't have much else in it I guess because you're supposed to upload it to a hardware device.

My ideal software would let me:

1 - identify a start and end.  click a button and have it auto route. 

2 - take 1 above and drag it around either having the software auto route based on my stops / way points or just let me manually do it.

3 - create a cue sheet.  The normal total miles, incremental miles, directions (TR, TL, STOP, etc).  Local notes would be nice (e.g. TR at the 7-Eleven).

4 - Talk to my Droid.  Maybe upload to Google maps too.

It would be nice if the current versions of DeLorme or Microsoft does all this for their 50-100 price.  But for the right software, I'll go a few hundred  now.   It seems like there are quite a few products that have pieces or some with all the pieces but don't work.  Are there any good bicycle routing products?

Any suggestions?   I saw that you can download the current MS for a trial.  I know that will probably nuke my current version, but I may try that if I don't find anything else.

What does AC use?  Is in anyway a consumer product?

34
General Discussion / Re: Astoria or Florence?
« on: June 02, 2011, 08:42:36 pm »
We did kind of (c) Other and kind of (b) Astoria. 

We shipped our bikes to Seattle and started there.  Basically took the ferry across the sound and biked to the coast.  Down the coast to Astoria and then followed the Trans-Am route.

We left June 17 (2003).  We had one day of riding in the rain in Wa.  Didn't have any rain at all until we got to Austin Junction and that was after quitting time although we cut it close.  I think the tent was not quite up when the rain started.  Didn't have any other rain until I left my brother in Missoula.  That was exactly a month and ~1250 miles.

35
Gear Talk / Re: Co-Motion dealers in Southern California
« on: March 08, 2011, 10:37:08 am »
. . . I'd buy direct from Co-Motion in Eugene and do away with the middle-person who muddled communications and was constantly trying to BS me.  Of course, 10% is 10%.....

We did both.  Most of the interaction was with CoMotion.  The dealer did take delivery and did whatever assembly was needed.  This was a couple hours away so we couldn't have a lot of visits.  The dealer was primarily a tandem dealer and had dealt with CoMo for a long time. 

There are no touring oriented LBS shops in this area at all.  If I remember correctly, CoMo would have done the entire transaction with me because there are no CoMo dealers in the area.  I don't know how much assembly a new bike needs, but I think having them ship to someone used to that type of bike rather than to me to mess it up or to me and have me work with a local LBS turned out well.  Next time I might investigate what shape a new bike comes in and decide to do it myself.  But if not, I'd rather have someone used to dealing with a bike that is a 1/2 tandem and not someone used to 1/2 lb frame with 2 spoke radial laced pizza cutters for wheels.

36
Gear Talk / Re: Touring bicycle choices
« on: March 06, 2011, 08:21:53 pm »
I was on the Cannondale site a couple days ago.  I don't think they have a touring bike anymore.  At least I couldn't find one there.  I was actually looking for what we used to call a 'sport' bike.  Lighter than a touring but drop bars, brazeons for racks etc.  Didn't find that either.

37
Gear Talk / Re: Co-Motion dealers in Southern California
« on: March 06, 2011, 08:17:44 pm »
I bought my Americano from a dealer a couple hours away and didn't get a fit.  This is back in 2002.  CoMo had a questionnaire that included some measurements.  My brother bought one at the same time.  We were both pleased with the results.  CoMo worked with us all the way.  My only regret was not getting the S&S couplers.  I think my brother would say the same given he is about to buy a bike Friday to take to Europe.

We visited the factory a year later on the TransAm trail.  That was fun.

38
General Discussion / Re: Gators in FL
« on: August 24, 2010, 01:10:59 pm »
thanks.  Makes me feel better.  I figure if there was a real big risk, I'd hear more about attacks.  But being only used to those cuddly brown bears up here in NJ, I thought I'd try to check it out.  I've only been to Florida once in my life and that was safely ensconced in Wally World with the kids 20 years ago.

We have actually postponed our trip until next year.  Otherwise I would already be a week in to it.  We had planned on making the last shuttle launch (9/16) but that is now in February and I'm not recovering nearly as fast as I thought I would from a knee operation.


39
Gear Talk / Re: Click driving me nuts
« on: April 03, 2010, 10:24:52 pm »
Well today I swapped back the old pedals, tightened the crank bolt (that might have been a little loose but I turned it the wrong way at first), tightened the chainring bolts, and replaced the cleats.

Did a short 10 miler afterwards and no click.  But the little imp has tried to trick me before.   I'll see tomorrow after a ride to my sisters for Easter dinner.  That's a decent 26 miles.  If I can get by a week I'll have some hope.

40
Gear Talk / Re: Click driving me nuts
« on: April 02, 2010, 11:58:32 pm »
This happened to my wife.  She would have a creak, one around with the crank, under stiff climbing.  It ended up being a small rock covered in old chain lube that had wedged itself between two of the chainrings.  It appeared to just be another glob of chain lube/debris between the rings, but when I finally went to clean that out I discovered it was a rock.  Fixed!

Good Luck

It should be something like that because the click occurs in the same part of the crank location regardless of front or rear gear selection.

41
Gear Talk / Re: Click driving me nuts
« on: April 02, 2010, 11:57:15 pm »
Very Interesting! What Brand, Model and Year Bike? What is the drive train including crank? Did you replace the BB yourself, or did you bring it to a shop? (Sounds fore "bearing.") ???

2002 Co-motion americano.  RaceFace Prodigy crankset.  BB replaced with a RaceFace by the LBS.

Rear is Shimano mega-9 11-34.  Hugi hubs.  Shouldn't matter but the read is wider than normal.  145 axle?  Symetrical dish.

42
Gear Talk / Click driving me nuts
« on: April 02, 2010, 01:27:12 pm »

I have been trying to elminate a click since last fall.  Since then I have replaced the BB.  I recently put another set of pedals (NOS) and thought it went away, but of course it's back.

I'd swear that I can feel it though my shoe sometimes.  I have thought about new cleats (SPD) but I think I can get it when not clipped in.  It's a little hard to pedal that way so I'm not quite sure about that yet.  It does not occur if I unclip and let my left foot hang.  Just pedal with my right foot.  I think it tends to go away with constant pressure (i.e. push down and pull up on the pedal stroke).  I think it occurs more with a light/moderate effort.

So I'm thinking of trying Locktite on the pedal threads and the crank arm.  Any thoughts on which or both and which level?  I'm thinking that 'blue' might make the most sense.

43
Gear Talk / Re: Brooks saddle break in period
« on: April 01, 2010, 06:13:56 pm »
I have a couple B17s.  The most recent is about 8 years old.  It is still hard.  I don't think it is particularly more or less comfortable than when I bought it.  It certainly has deformed a bit to my butt but there isn't a big difference between that and my mid-90s B17.  Both have sides that have splayed out a bit.  Others drill holes and lace them but mine don't rub.   I'll consider this when they do.

Regarding leather thickness, I don't know if they specifically look to make some saddles thicker than others, but they used to say that the leather varied from one saddle to another because the cows varied.

I don't know if Brooks still has the same recommendations, but back then they warned about using anything other than Proofide.  They cited something about the ingredients and I think they warned about particular ingredients in other oils.  I went to the site which appears to be somewhat new and there is no longer any care information.  I will post a scan of what I got if I can find it.  I looked recently and so far it has not shown up.  It's a short one page set of instructions.

Adventure Cycling's Proofide Product Page says only use proofide.

Sheldon Brown has an article on leather saddle breakin and treatment on all this.

Personally, I liberally apply Proofide when I first get the saddle.  I repeat once or twice during the first and maybe second season.  After that, I do that late winter and if the whim moves me, one other time.  I buff off the top but leave it as is underneath. 

I try to put my cover on if it rains.  I did forget to bring my bike in last summer and it was out all night in the pouring rain.  The next morning, I removed the saddle and hung it in the basement from a bungee from a joist.  That was mostly so I could hit my head on it every time I went in to that part of the basement.

I chose the basement because I run dehumidifiers down there for my servers and figured it is actually drier down there (I have hot water heat.  If I had hot air, I'd have hung upstairs). 

I just left it there for a week.  It seemed to be dry after 2 or 3 days but I wanted to be sure.  After a week I did a good Proofide treatment and put it back on the bike.   This recovery seems to have worked fine.  I can't tell that it ever spent the night being abused.

On tensioning.  I did buy a brooks spanner when i bought the first saddle.  I have never used it on either saddle and I am 6'4" / 250lb.  At this rate, the saddles will definitely outlive me.

44
I would definitely use the maps.  Note that they are strip maps so you'll be off map before long if you go off route.  It's unfortunate that the map price has skyrocketed so much in the last couple years, but I think they are worth it. 

I just got new ones for the ACA route even though I bought a set less than 5 years ago and I have a GPS. One reason is that you can no longer go through camp Legune.  Information like that and the new bypass are pretty valuable in addition to the camps, bike shops etc that others have mentioned.

45
General Discussion / Re: Bike Cover
« on: March 20, 2010, 02:27:50 pm »
I split an 8lb or so with my brother and it doesn't bother me.  We used to share a Eureka timberline, but that kind of wore out over the decades and got a similar (Expedition or something?) which is also a 4 person tent.  We took that on the TransAm.

But 4 person is a joke.  Maybe with 4 skinny and under 5 foot that would work but both of us are over 6 foot (I'm 6'4") and both well over 200 lb.  The Eureka allows us some room and a place for our panniers.

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