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Messages - driftlessregion

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1
General Discussion / Re: Sour clothing - after washing!
« on: September 19, 2014, 08:46:45 pm »
I find that Kookaburra Wash works pretty well. http://www.kookaburraco.com/
(in addition, it is all I use for my wool jerseys)

2
General Discussion / Re: Quick fixes for cyclist's palsy?
« on: September 19, 2014, 08:40:45 pm »
There may indeed be a medically treatable problem. But wouldn't you rather take care of it if you could by having a thorough professional fit? If that doesn't work, then see the orthopod or PT or whatever medical professional you choose. A good MD will ask if you've tried all the non-invasive options first (including medications).

3
General Discussion / Re: Nishki bikes
« on: September 19, 2014, 08:34:45 pm »
That's what I thought. Thanks for confirming it. I'm watching ebay-you never know when a Cresta or Trek 720 frame will show up ready for modernizing. Trouble has been, I need a 64 cm.

4
Gear Talk / Re: Thule towbar rack and fenders help please
« on: September 17, 2014, 10:15:52 pm »
Looking at the picture it appears that the bar that holds the bike tight would sit on top of the fender and not be a good connection and possibly bend the fender. Have you put the bike on it and tried it?

5
General Discussion / Nishki bikes
« on: September 17, 2014, 10:11:14 pm »
Anyone know the difference between the Nishiki Olympic and the Cresta from the 80's?

6
General Discussion / Re: importance of componentry
« on: August 23, 2014, 08:27:40 am »
Seems to be two questions here. First, barcons v. STI. I tour with STI and haven't had breakdowns but tour with a guy whose Ultegra levers have failed twice. Long, slow climbs the rest of the day for him. Second, top of the line STI v. lower. I notice difference between Sora and my 105 but not between 105 and Deore or Ultegra. Mostly difference of weight, name and shine.

7
General Discussion / Re: general advice on making a tour happen
« on: July 01, 2014, 10:57:39 pm »
Jobst Brandt has this to say about shimmy: "Bicycle shimmy is the lateral oscillation of the head tube about the road contact point of the front wheel and depends largely on frame geometry and the elasticity of the top and down tubes. It is driven by gyroscopic forces of the front wheel, making it largely speed dependent. It cannot be fixed by adjustments because it is inherent to the geometry and elasticity of the bicycle frame. The longer the frame and the higher the saddle, the greater the tendency to shimmy, other things being equal. Weight distribution also has no effect on shimmy although where that weight contacts the frame does. Bicycle shimmy is unchanged when riding no-hands, whether leaning forward or backward." Complete article at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html.
I watched a friend almost go down two days ago during a shimmy at 35 mph. He stopped it by grabbing the top tube with both knees. Like JDF he was a tall guy with a big bike (steel).

8
Gear Talk / Re: I Found and Purchased My New Bike
« on: March 01, 2014, 01:56:57 pm »
I don't know much about powder coating. I take it that it is more expensive, not done on stock bicycles, but is less prone to being damaged and therefore may last longer before repainting is necessary. Correct?

9
General Discussion / Re: touring in the rain?
« on: March 01, 2014, 01:46:55 pm »
It also depends on your schedule-are you able to take a day off or do you have to catch a flight in x days?
I almost always wear a raincoat unless it is over 90 F. Too easy to get cold if wet. 80 degrees when it starts raining can become 65 degrees in minutes and then you are both cold and wet.

10
Gear Talk / Re: tire clearance in brakes
« on: December 31, 2013, 06:56:56 pm »
Yes they have quick releases but they don't open like the brakes of old. I will add posts if I go that route. Easy to do.

11
Gear Talk / tire clearance in brakes
« on: December 31, 2013, 12:43:44 pm »
I'm frustrated with having to let out the air in my tires  in order to get them past the brake pads. The tires are 28s and the brakes are the original Shimano new in about 2000 medium reach calipers. They just don't far enough. I ride 28 every day. I can push the 28s past the pads but not the 32s I put on for touring. I'm contemplating removing them for cantilevers but before I do I'm wondering if any other calipers of that quality do open farther?

12
Gear Talk / Re: best touring frames
« on: December 11, 2013, 07:40:40 pm »
Yes, it's true. I probably am being nostalgic. Nevertheless, there were some great bikes back then.

13
Gear Talk / Re: best touring frames
« on: November 22, 2013, 04:16:16 pm »
Well, my question wasn't what was the best bike, but what were the great ones. I guess I didn't give enough context in the question. I was intending to focus on the past such as the 720, and though the Adventure Cycle is current it has been around awhile. Lots of good frames now  such as the Long Haul Trucker, and Co-Motions.   What are the precursors to today's bikes? Nishiki had a couple of good ones, Fuji etc.

14
Gear Talk / best touring frames
« on: November 20, 2013, 11:37:24 am »
Besides the Trek 720 in the 80's, & the 520, Waterford's Adventure Cycle, what are some of the great touring frames (without considering how the frame was built up)? Fuji had a pretty good frame once too; the Finest?

15
General Discussion / Re: Day Jobs?
« on: October 27, 2013, 10:18:25 pm »
I ran into a guy touring in Death Valley National Park (during the shutdown-a great time to ride there!) whose kids are grown and here is the kicker-he is a tax accountant. Come June he has made enough money for the rest of the year and off he goes.

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