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Messages - dkoloko

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Classifieds / SOLD: Touring Bicycle
« on: August 26, 2015, 04:15:36 pm »
Fuji Custom 54cm Touring Bicycle, two years old, $475.

New saddle, brake lever hoods, brake blocks, and bar tape. Professionally tuned by bike shop for this sale to be ready to roll.

Shimano XT rear derailleur upgrade over stock Deore. Upgrade seatpost. Gearing lowered from stock to 16 gear inches; high, 103 gear inches. 46-34-22 chainwheel sizes are optimally chosen, and largest chainwheels are ramped and pinned. 12-36 9-speed cogset. Dura-Ace bar end friction shifters. Cantilever brakes, 700cx32 tires.

Braze-ons for racks front and rear. Drillings for fenders. Spoke holder. Cogset chain protector. Reflective patches on rims. No pedals. Minor touch-up/decals to look nice.

This bicycle sold for $1100 without upgrades. Others are asking same price for similar touring bikes 30 to 40 years old. Buyer pays $35 for professional packing and provides shipping label.

I don't know about a headlight, but it sounds like you need one of these $5 brackets for your tail light.

I don't recommend this bracket. Have one, minus the taillight; fell out several times. Last time couldn't find the light. While the light could be popped in and out of the bracket without tools, it required a screwdriver to change batteries. What thinking!

Routes / Re: Foreigner needs assistance with epic solo bike trip.
« on: May 27, 2015, 09:42:31 am »
I've ridden through the Alleghenies; hilly, if that's what you want. I don't know if you'll find 80 percent off road. For hills, Catskills are closer to New York City, your landing. You may be able to combine the Alleghenies and Catskills into a 300 mile loop.

Gear Talk / Re: Single pair of shoes, or bike AND walking shoes?
« on: May 22, 2015, 11:04:09 am »
Your choice; I did the Pacific Coast Route in the fall; no problem being warm enough with Keen sandals. Cleats in the Keen sandals do not touch floor. On every mountain bike shoe I own, the cleats protrude beyond the recess.

I'd also thought of getting some waterproof pannier covers, but some experienced tourers I spoke with told me that when they've tried that, if they went through a significant downpour, water would either eventually seep onto/into the bags anyway, or would get in when they removed the covers, so I took their advice and didn't go that route.

I have heard tales of such people, but to me they remain illusive as the Yeti. Toured about 11,000 miles with by Robert Beckman Designs (former partner of Bruce Gordon) non-waterproof panniers with rain covers. Never experienced those problems.

"Seep into" is a questionable phrase. In my experience, water got in from the back, as the waterproof covers, made for the water repellent bags, only covered top, front, and bottom of panniers, to allow for rack panniers were attached. As I previously posted, helped, were worthwhile, but still necessitated some sort of waterproof bags inside panniers for full protection. A bonus for the covers is that if conditions were muddy or otherwise nasty, easier to wash the covers than clean the panniers.

 I always wondered if there was some combination of water repellent panniers and waterproof covers that completely kept out pouring rain. If so, interesting, but having switched to waterproof panniers, I will not go back. Putting on and taking off covers is still a nuisance.

I have always just used garbage bags inside various non-waterproof panniers. 

This is commonly suggested. I tried garbage bags; also compactor bags. The solution I posted is far easier to use, neater, and tougher. I also see no reason for belt and suspenders, waterproof stuff sacks inside waterproof panniers. I bag or pouch like items, but the bags or pouches maybe net, or otherwise not waterproof.

I had water repellant panniers with pannier covers for several years. Switched to waterproof bags; will not go back. The pannier covers help with water repellant bags, but are a nuisance taking on and off, sometimes several times a day when rain comes, ceases, then comes again. If you insist on water repellant bags I would do as I eventually did before I sold the water repellant bags. Get a sturdy plastic bag that just fills the space for each pannier with preferably a little extra height so you can fold the top over. I got what I was looking for by asking in bike shops that I stopped by on tour. Much better than a number of small waterproof bags.

Classifieds / FOR SALE: Swrve Pants; Messenger Bag
« on: February 28, 2015, 11:36:35 am »
31wx30 Swrve Cordura Skinny Jeans Urban Pants. These sell for $100. Like new condition. $30 plus $7.95 shipping. See description,

New Sunlite Messenger Bag. apprx 20x14x5 in. Felt lined laptop compartment. Multiple storage compartments. Cordura type fabric. Smaller Sunlite Messenger Bag sells for $86.48. $9.99 plus $14.95 shipping.

Gear Talk / Re: One link in the chain
« on: February 28, 2015, 11:10:30 am »
Not sure about one link; most times two links add or subtract. As to dire results mentioned, I have shifted  many times to big big combination and had no worst result than having to get off the bike to free the chain. I have reused pin in chain many times without failure. Not all chain brands warn against replacing pin. For those, I carry spare links to replace ones can't reuse. Tool less chain link connectors are also option. Of course, if you have to ask, maybe it is better to take the most conservative advice.

Gear Talk / Re: What lube to use for touring.
« on: January 01, 2015, 12:36:23 pm »
Here is a site with various manufactures recommendations on how to care for their chains:¬

I stated to begin with I did not want to get into pros and cons of waxing; that's been done; as I said, if interested in that, see archives. I made clear I was simply stating what I use and how long it lasts. You couldn't resist, however, and had to give a dig. Into what Berto called the most definitive test of chain lubricants waxing caused the least wear to drive train components. Sorry if that does not agree with your experience. I don't always agree with Sheldon; example, his embrace of biopace chainwheels.

Gear Talk / Re: What lube to use for touring.
« on: December 31, 2014, 10:46:12 pm »
The Sheldon Brown article is an old article based on chains that use to use bushings, new chains are bushingless which improves the flow of lubricant to all parts of the chain, but even back in the day all of us pulled our chains off and soaked them and reoiled with no problems but the claim is that the oil couldn't get into the tight spaces of the bushings; today I no longer pull my chains off because I'm lazy so I just use a Park Cyclone chain cleaning machine.

Anywho, Sheldon revised that earlier comments with this:

I'm not sure I understand this post. Sheldon said not to soak chains, and then said it's OK?

When did bushingless chains become the norm?  Bicycling Magazine advised not to soak chains at least as late as 2007.

I mentioned this caveat FWIW. I use wax; I do not use any cleaner. Just passed on the caution which I understand comes from chain manufacturers.

Gear Talk / Re: What lube to use for touring.
« on: December 31, 2014, 04:01:52 pm »
"Since Bicycle chains do not have O-rings seals like Motorcycle chains have you will never have an issue with cleaning lube out of places you cannot get lube back into."

FWIW, chain manufacturers say not to soak chains in cleaner, so that original lubricant is not removed from innermost areas.
Sheldon Brown had the following to say about that:
"Factory Lube
New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.

Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!

The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube."

Excerpted from

Actually, Sheldon is answering a different question: should the lubricant that is on the chain when new be removed? Is that lubricant just for protection until sold?

My response you replied to answers the question, if you clean your chain, is it wise to soak it?

Someone, listening to Sheldon, may run the chain with the original lubrication until dirty, then soak it before re-lubing.

Gear Talk / Re: What lube to use for touring.
« on: December 31, 2014, 12:24:06 pm »
"Since Bicycle chains do not have O-rings seals like Motorcycle chains have you will never have an issue with cleaning lube out of places you cannot get lube back into."

FWIW, chain manufacturers say not to soak chains in cleaner, so that original lubricant is not removed from innermost areas.

Gear Talk / Re: What lube to use for touring.
« on: December 30, 2014, 10:27:09 am »
I use wax; not drip on wax, which I tried and found wanting, but melted wax. Lasts about 500 miles. Not the trouble those who don't wax think it is; I carry a stove anyway. Advantages besides cleanliness is not having to clean chain before re-lubing and better drive train durability than other lubricants. Not want to get into a discussion of pros and cons of waxing; see archives if interested in that. Just saying what I use and how long it lasts.

Gear Talk / Re: chain ring sizing
« on: November 05, 2014, 12:32:48 pm »
Answer no. Ran 50-45-24 for many years, no problems. Your chain problem is another matter.

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