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General Discussion / leaving March 2015 long riding for fun
« Last post by bikeHANSEN on October 21, 2014, 11:41:28 am »
How are you doing today?
Hope everything is going good for you!
My name is James Hansen.
i am planning on riding on either the Underground Railroad route or the Atlantic Coast route!
im trying to leave somewhere right around march 3 2015.
i will be riding about 15-25 miles each day.
if you would like to ride with me then please feel free to send me an email at:
or you can look me up on facebook by using the following keywords: James Hansen Columbus Georgia
my personal motto is: Living Loving Life
General Discussion / Re: Wireless computer on touring bike
« Last post by staehpj1 on October 21, 2014, 11:07:57 am »
I've used wireless on three tours, and never has interference, but some cheaper computers may not use coded digital signaling.
I'm using a Sigma Rox 9, but I like the look of the new Rox 6 for a little cheaper option.
Ones that I used that had lots of interference problems include a Sigma and another was a Cateye, but I do not recall the models.  I have only used much cheaper models than you mention though.  For me a cyclocomputer is mostly an odometer with current speed being a nice feature, so even the cheaper one you mention is way more than I personally can see spending, at about 4-6 times what I typically spend for a cyclocomputer.  I have been using the Planet Bike Protege models lately at something like $25-35.  Heck they even have current temperature which is surprisingly accurate as long as you are either moving or in the shade.
Gear Talk / Re: Sizing Dilemma (Is there a big difference between 58 and 60cm trek?)
« Last post by indyfabz on October 21, 2014, 10:47:59 am »
Another issue is crank arm length. What is the crank arm length of the Trek? At your size, you are likely going to want at least 175 mm and maybe even 180 mm.

Bar width? I have broad shoulders and currenty have 44 cm bars on my road bike. My Surly LHT came with 46 mm bars. They are more comfortable, and that size is what a professional fit said I should have on my road bike.

If you have to spring for things like a new crank, stem and bars, the price difference is going to shrink some.
General Discussion / Re: Wireless computer on touring bike
« Last post by DaveB on October 21, 2014, 10:22:59 am »
In the past many wireless devices, including cyclometers and heart rate monitors, had serious problems with interference from outside sources of RF like power stations, overhead high voltage wires, radio transmitters, etc..  Sometimes they would even read the signal from a similar cyclometer or HRM on the bike  next to them.

Newer, better models have coded transmitters/receivers that do a pretty good job of ignoring these outside sources so the problems have been minimized.  Despite that, wired models have no issues with any outside signal and have only one battery to worry about and can be less expensive.  As noted, some models (Cat Eye Enduro for one) have heavy gauge, strong wiring harnesses so they are well protected from damage. 
Gear Talk / Re: Sizing Dilemma (Is there a big difference between 58 and 60cm trek?)
« Last post by Pat Lamb on October 21, 2014, 10:17:55 am »
I understand budget constraints and the temptation of a low prices.  On the other hand, buying a bicycle that doesn't fit well is likely to lead to a bicycle that doesn't get ridden much, which makes it a foolish plan.

As it sounds like the OP is interested, hoping, or planning to bicycle more than the 100-500 miles most bicycles ever get ridden, it might be worth the extra money to buy from a bicycle shop (LBS).  Part of the price you pay for a new bike from an LBS is having someone who understands cycling and has some experience getting people onto right-sized bikes fit the buyer.  If you really can't afford that, consider taking prospective bikes to a bike shop that offers fitting services.  That service often costs $50-200 as a stand-alone service.  (That is usually priced into the cost of a new bike.)  Since it's getting into the off-season for cycling in most of North America, it may be possible to negotiate down to the lower end of the price scale.

I regard getting personal attention from a brick and mortar shop without paying for it and then purchasing the same product elsewhere as despicable.  YMMV.
General Discussion / Re: Wireless computer on touring bike
« Last post by RonK on October 21, 2014, 07:01:43 am »
I've used wireless on three tours, and never has interference, but some cheaper computers may not use coded digital signaling.
I'm using a Sigma Rox 9, but I like the look of the new Rox 6 for a little cheaper option.
International / Re: Biking New Zealand
« Last post by RonK on October 21, 2014, 04:11:21 am »
I have done two tours in New Zealand since 2010, both on the South Island, so I can only make general comments about the North Island.

The North Island is hillier, more densely populated, the roads busier, and reputedly, the drivers more aggressive. I've heard negative comments from a few cycle tourists, but I've experience few issues myself.  This may be because my visits have been in the spring when the roads are less busy. But generally the roads of the South Island have been mostly quiet, with the exception of State Highway 1, which runs the length of the east coast and is the main north-south artery. Plan to avoid this route as much as possible.

Your January visit coincides with the summer vacations, and is the height of the backpacker and tourist season as well, so it will be busier. It would be better to defer your vist by a month or even two if possible. The locals have gone back to school and work by February and the tourist season is starting to wind down by March, which is also likely to produce the most stable weather conditions.

Also, don't be deceived by the miniscule size of NZ on the map, depending on how far/fast you want ride and how much time sightseeing, it will take around 5 weeks to cover the South Island and maybe most of the North in the remaining available time. So far I have done two month-long tours to cover the middle and the bottom of the South Island, although to be fair I did go back over some parts that I enjoyed so much I wanted to do them again.

Last tour I rode several hundred kilometres on unsealed back roads. I found these roads well-formed and manageable (with just a little more than normal care) riding on 32mm Schwalbe Marathon Supremes, but the main touring routes are sealed. 1.6"x26" Supremes would be fine for your bikes.

NZ has a well-developed tourist route and it's quite possible to tour without camping if preferred, although you may need to do the odd 100km+ day. There are many motor camps (rv parks), backpacker hostels and camping grounds, and most towns have a domain where free camping is allowed, although there may not be much in the way of facilities.

The best touring guide is Nigel Rushtons Pedalers Paradise - there is a volume for each island. It's very basic but covers all the information you'll need with little weight penalty. There are very few roads in NZ so you don't need much in the way of maps or navigation - a simple road map from a newsagent or gas station is generally sufficient. I used Google Maps with an earbud to get voice navigation prompts passing through some of the bigger cities, which ofter have motorway approaches and convoluted cycle routes to avoid them.

Have a look through my touring journals - you'll find links and reference to the information I found most useful. Any questions you are welcome to ask.

Chasing the Long White Cloud
Gone Fishin'
Gear Talk / Sizing Dilemma (Is there a big difference between 58 and 60cm trek?)
« Last post by RonK on October 21, 2014, 01:59:36 am »
The sizes you quote refer to the length of the seat tube, which is not overly important given seat posts offer a significant range of adjustment.

But a larger frame will have a longer top tube, affecting the reach. This is the important dimension as scope for adjustment is limited. Since the saddle must be set to position you correctly in relation to the pedals, the reach dimension can only be varied by changing the stem.
An off the shelf bike will usually have a stem of 100-110mm. A long stem is 130mm, 50mm is short, but may affect the feel of the steering. Stems are made in 10mm increments.

At 6'4" a 58cm will most likely be too small, but you may be able to compensate with a longer stem.

If it is too small you may feel cramped on a test ride.

Perhaps you should visit a bike shop and test ride a correctly sized bike to get a proper feeling before looking at used bikes.
Since I'm new to road biking, I'm not 100% sure what I should be looking for. Is there anything specific that would tell me that the bike is or isn't a good fit? Any indicators?

Calculating your fit only gets you in the ballpark. You need to take a test ride. Don't just ride around the parking lot. Go a number of miles, including flats, uphill and downhill.
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