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Time out boys...

I think being able to replace AA or AAA batteries at any gas station is a useful thing.    Chargers take space, and finding opportunities to charge is a pain.  Plus what happens if you need your lights and you guessed wrong on your charge level.  You cannot always head to the nearest McDonalds to hang out in their lobby while you wait for your light's batteries to recharge.  Having your phone go dead is one thing.  Being able to run the lights in blink mode in inclement weather or light the way if you are running late is pretty important.
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General Discussion / Re: What to do: 15 years of Adventure Cyclist magazines?
« Last post by alexstrickland on September 26, 2016, 01:08:59 pm »
Hey Pat,
  Light, real light! We cover a couple of bikes a year with low gears in that range, almost always bikes spec'd w/ Shimano road drivetrains, as that's about as low as they can go without some modifications.
  In those cases (I'm thinking of a bike like the Niner RLT https://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/20160201_RoadTestNiner_Legan.pdf) some of the rationale is often that the bike could be a good touring platform, though perhaps not exactly as equipped from the manufacturer. Or, especially with the kinds of bikes we might cover in the February supported touring and events issue (keep an eye out for a GT in the 2017 issue), we're looking at sort of "quiver-killer" bikes that folks might ride unloaded in Ride the Rockies-type events or very lightly loaded on a credit card or supported tour.
  Coming out of Interbike we saw some intersting "micro-compact" cranksets that should be interesting to keep low gears low with road drivetrains and continue to see manufacturers dropping front rings bit by bit to gear bikes lower in the adventure category, a welcome change that saves consumers from having to immediately make changes.
  -Alex
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General Discussion / Re: What to do: 15 years of Adventure Cyclist magazines?
« Last post by Pat Lamb on September 26, 2016, 12:56:04 pm »
Finally, regarding POG's reviews: this was also really interesting to hear (read?). In general, we subscribe to the idea that there's no sense wasting ink in the magazine on bad products, largely because SO many of the bikes out there are so very good. Long before a review makes it onto the page, at least a handful of folks have determined that the bike is worth investigating — in some cases despite taller gearing, a weird fork, etc. — and so odds are any negative commentary are more nits to pick rather that out and out warnings to avoid. Do we miss on occasion? Without a doubt. But hopefully O'Grady's reviews are entertaining as well as informative, I certainly find them to be.

Having had my 2 cents input, I was going to leave it alone.  The gearing issue is one I remember several reviews glossing over or ignoring completely.  But perhaps I can learn something with one more question:

What kind of touring is appropriate for a bike with, say, a 27-30 gear inch low gear?
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General Discussion / Re: Touring bike wheel
« Last post by Pat Lamb on September 26, 2016, 12:51:18 pm »
I pretty much agree with Dan on what's necessary for a durable, problem-free touring wheel, with a couple minor differences.

Double butted spokes?  I think you can build a wheel with straight gauge spokes that will work, but the double butted spokes give you a bit of extra latitude.  (Pardon me if I go all nerdy for a few sentences!)  The smaller gauge wire in the center allows for more plastic deformation -- it'll stretch more without stretching permanently.  This lets you add a bit more tension to the spoke than the minimum required to maintain tension over the rotation of the wheel, and without damaging the rim.  The result can be tens of thousands of miles on a wheel loaded with gear and a clydesdale without problems.  OK, nerdiness aside, DT, Sapim, or Wheelsmith spokes are made well.

Brass nipples -- Dan's nailed this one.  Make sure all the nipples on both wheels take the same size spoke wrench, and carry a good one in case you need to adjust the wheel between bike shops.

IMHO, machine built wheels are a good source of parts.  If you can get one with components you like, either you or a good wheel man can tension and stress relieve it and you'll have a great wheel for far less than the parts would cost you individually.

Why do your local bike shops think the original shopping list was overkill?  It could be they're looking at the double eyelets and double walled rims and thinking they put hundreds of people on wheels without those features and they seem to work.  It could also be that they don't know squat about touring bikes and touring loads, and they'd be happy to sell you the last of this season's deep carbon fiber rim wheels with a 175 pound load limit.  It might be worth asking them (politely) which part is overkill, or maybe not. 
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Routes / Re: New England to the Atlantic Coast Route
« Last post by indyfabz on September 26, 2016, 10:54:33 am »
I originally eyed up Taconic State Park near Millerton, but Labor Day is the last day of its season, which seems strange. One would think there would be some leaf pepper business, at least on weekends.
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There is a paving project occurring on SR 96 in Colorado. It is expected to last until November 2016. There are no known, paved alternatives. Ride with caution.

http://www.cotrip.org/map.htm#/default?RoadWorkAlertId=237331

Jennifer
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Routes / Re: New England to the Atlantic Coast Route
« Last post by BobG on September 24, 2016, 07:05:41 pm »
Thanks for the photos! Brought back memories of similar trips I took in '13, NH to VA. First attempt was in June, N Tier to Orford NH then south to Brattleboro. Picked up the ACA route at Granby CT and continued to Poughkeepsie. Camped at Riverton, Millerton and Staatsburg. I aborted trip there due to weather and fitness and took Amtrak back to Boston via NY then bus home.

Second try in the Fall was same week after Labor Day as yours with perfect weather. Successful all the way to VA using the same ACA route you took through NY and NJ. That trip I modified the route through CT and rode from Westhampton MA to Bantam Lake CT and then to Highland NY. From there continued on ACA route south to DC with an alternate route from Riegelsville to French Creek SP where I re-joined the ACA route as far as MD, then continued on my own route.

Didn't take many pics so I enjoyed yours!
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General Discussion / Re: Touring bike wheel
« Last post by DanE on September 24, 2016, 04:29:28 pm »
Hand built wheel -I build my own so I guess they are hand built.

Double wall wheel rim - These can be nice, but there were some nice ones in the past that were not double walled such as the Winnemann Concave. Recently I have been using the Velocity Dyad which are double walled.

Double butted spokes - I think unbutted 14 gauge spokes work well for touring, I don't think you need double butted.

At least 36 spokes with three-cross lacing - Yes, and maybe more spokes if you are a big guy or take too much stuff.

Brass nipples - Yes, I would not use Aluminum nipples on a touring bike. Al nipples save weight and build up nicely but will corrode over a year or two making it difficult to true the wheel later on. Save these for your racing bike.

Double eyelets - These are less common than they once were. I don't worry about it too much.

What is important and this is why your sources say to get a handbuilt wheel is getting the tension correct on the spokes. Rims have a maximum tension recommendation. If the tension is too low the wheel won't have integrity and will give you problems. If it is above the maximum tension the wheel will tend to break itself apart over time in the form of cracked rims or eyelets popping out. If the tension is correct the wheel lasts a long time. Building by hand with a skilled builder is a better wheel than a robotic machine made wheel which is probably how wheels are made from some mail order house advertising touring wheels for $125 or some such thing.
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Temporary ACA Route Road Closures / TransAm Route, Section 3 panels 28 and 27 - fall 2016
« Last post by wloo on September 24, 2016, 11:08:45 am »
Note that Pollack Road is closed due to a landslide taking out the road. For west bound it is on Panel 28 and for east bound it is on Panel 27.
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