The OP stated "light-tourer" and "all-purpose"; not fully-loaded touring.
Some posters need to educate themselves on what Apex WiFli, compact-double, road-double, road-triple, and MTB-triple are and what can be done with gearing, before posting. Laying out a spreadsheet of all the different gearing options and ratios will go a long way to realizing what one truly is looking at. I'm not meaning to be harsh here, but, it irks the crap out of me when people post up comments without knowing what they're talking about. These posts greatly affect the OP's decision making process.
Apex is going to have ratios further apart. However, the "holes" are minimal, as one can use both rings (cross-chaining is encouraged with SRAM) to achieve a workable gear ratio. WiFli is the equivalent to specifying a 10 speed transmission versus an 18 speed transmission, in a semi. Yes. The 18 speed is going to be faster up a hill (because of keeping closer to peak power), but, it's heavier, more complicated to operate, and has ratio overlap, just like in bicycles. If one were in the big ring and steadily dropped gears on the cassette, when they dropped a 'ring, there will be considerable overlap in gearing and will have to upshift the cassette several cogs to continue in a natural progression of lower gear ratios, just like a semi. Furthermore, dropping a triple into the smaller 'ring will result in performing the same process, again. WiFli doesn't have so much overlap in ratios, as there are only two chainrings. I find when I drop the 'ring I need to upshift two cassette cogs to continue the natural progression. Again, for my riding style, fitness, and terrain encountered, it works perfectly.
I've been running Apex on mine and my GF's Specialized Tricrosses, for two years. The most I carry is ~25lbs in a rear rack bag and a small frame bag (she, a small frame bag), as we rely on convenience and grocery stores. We, both, run 4 bottle mounts. I'm currently running a compact crank (48/34) spinning a 12-32 cassette. She's running a 'cross crank (46/38) spinning a 12-36 cassette. In road cycling GA, TN, IL, MO, NY, VT, and FL, I've not found the need for MTB gearing, at my loaded weight and fitness level. With Apex, we've never had chains drop or any other malfunction/problems. Shifts are instantaneous and solid. I'll continue to use the groupset on everything, in the future.
I'm so smitten with SRAM's WiFli ideaology, I bought a new MTB with SRAM's 2X10 drivetrain. I went from a 3X9 XTR drivetrain and will never go back to a triple. My peer group questioned the decision, stating fewer gear ratios. However, I pointed out that a lot of ratios are overlapped, or close to it, and most of our MTB riding is done in the smaller two 'rings and primarily somewhere at the point of shifting between those two smaller rings. With the 2X10, I can stay in the small ring. I climb everything I did before, to the point of going up stuff the others walk. I only use the big 'ring on the flats. They positively commented with amazement, upon hearing me shifting through gears, wherever I chose. It shifts so quickly and positively that my rear wheel spokes "ping", even under load.
It was mentioned that a mechanic is crucial to good operation. I'd argue that component level is equally important. No matter who the mechanic, one will never get a Sora/Tiagra road setup to shift as cleanly as XT/XTR, that most tourists use. To me that's a huge deal breaker, as the average cyclist doesn't realize the difference. All they've heard is "triple" and they end up buying something with a road triple that shifts like garbage. If you're going to go triple, be sure it's a MTB triple. Furthermore, chain selection makes all the difference in the world, to shifting quality. Don't skimp on chains.
I've plugged in numbers, based on a 35mm tire, for low gear inches:
Apex 38X36 (my GF's setup)=28.7
MTB 22X36 (as some here run)=16.6
Surly LHT 26X34=20.8
My MTB 22X36 (56mm tire)=17.8
After all that, IMHO, you don't need a triple for light-touring and general use. However, you do need a mid- or long-cage MTB rear derailluer or Apex groupset. That'll allow you to swing a 36T low gear; a road RD limits you to a 28T low gear. The Cross-Check has the MTB derailluer necessary to swing the bigger cog.
As for the Cross-Check, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one for your intended use. If you're on a budget and don't have stigmas related to brands, you may consider the bike at the following link (both are made in China).http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_cxx.htm