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Bike Clubs / Re: UTAH... A True Touring Club ! ! !
« on: April 28, 2010, 05:57:30 pm »
Thanks for the reply - thanks for your efforts. Regards - Ed
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Gear Talk / Re: Road Training/Touring Bike--Tricross Sport?
« on: April 26, 2010, 07:38:22 pm »Sounds like a case of PEBCAK.
[/quote]
WHAT?
??
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Gear Talk / Re: Help Pulling the Trigger
« on: April 04, 2010, 05:29:59 pm »And please come back and tell us what bike you bought, how things turned out, and what adventures you had.
We hope you will enjoy your bike and your trips.
bogiesan
Ditto - plus two - on that advice! Good luck.
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Gear Talk / Re: Help Pulling the Trigger
« on: April 03, 2010, 10:59:35 am »
Surly or Trek - Can't go wrong with either for the money. If you are committed to 26" wheels, the LHT would fit the bill.
The bar end shifters offered on both models are my personal favorite - had Ultegra STIs on one bike -the rear shifter lasted just over a year and the cost to replace at that time (about $300 for a new pair - they don't sell one replacement shifter) was over four times the cost to convert to bar ends. I know a lot of riders NEVER have had any problems with the STI set-up but if they break, you are stuck. Can't convert them to friction mode in an emergency like the bar ends.
Good luck with your search.
The bar end shifters offered on both models are my personal favorite - had Ultegra STIs on one bike -the rear shifter lasted just over a year and the cost to replace at that time (about $300 for a new pair - they don't sell one replacement shifter) was over four times the cost to convert to bar ends. I know a lot of riders NEVER have had any problems with the STI set-up but if they break, you are stuck. Can't convert them to friction mode in an emergency like the bar ends.
Good luck with your search.
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Gear Talk / Re: Road Training/Touring Bike--Tricross Sport?
« on: March 31, 2010, 05:28:57 pm »All of Shimano's 9 speed cassettes should be interchangeable. Similar for 10 speed cassettes. What one may run into, is that the rear derailleur does not have the range to accommodate a bigger cassette.
Well I just don't know why it didn't work - I have been "wrenching" my own bikes for 35 of my 60 years, including one complete "frame-up" build and one total restoration of a complete junk, - I may just have gotten a spacer misaligned. I did have a Deore LX rear derailleur on hand to replace the wide range road unit but I didn't get that far. Oh well, a moot point since I no longer have that bike.
Anyway, back to the subject at hand - I think as we gain additional facts about mattbakerwhite, the road bike with a B.O.B. trailer may be the best option for him. Unless he wants wider tires, the ability to mount fenders and a more relaxed geometry, the pure touring bike might not be necessary.
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Gear Talk / Re: Road Training/Touring Bike--Tricross Sport?
« on: March 31, 2010, 05:37:26 am »QuoteThe stock wheels have Mavic A719s with a 135mm rear hub spacing that allows the use of a wide range (with 34 tooth low cog) mountain cassette.We have a couple of bikes in our stable with that big a cassette on 130mm hubs. 135 is not necessary, because the Shimano/SRAM spacing between cogs is still 4.34mm (center to center) regardless of the size of cogs, so the thickness of the cassette piles up to the same.
When I tried to replace the Ultegra 9-speed with the Sram 11-34 on my 2000 Cannondale R700 (with 130mm rear spacing and 130mm hub) it didn't fit. The cassette didn't "lock" on the hub - the cassette seemed too wide. I tried many times to make it work because I really wanted that gearing on that bike. I no longer have that bike so I can't go back and re-measure anything but, at least for that Cannondale (using Shimano 105 hubs) the 11-34 and 130mm spacing was not doable.
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Gear Talk / Re: Road Training/Touring Bike--Tricross Sport?
« on: March 30, 2010, 05:03:05 am »
I haven't ridden this bike (have you?) but from what I've read it seems to be described as a "cross" bike that can be used for other purposes. I have always been under the impression that cyclocross bikes have a higher bottom bracket than a traditional touring frame like the Cannodale "T" series or a Trek 520. Higher bottom bracket = less stable. Some of the other members who tour on cross frames may tell you that the difference is insignificant.
Regarding the idea of switching wheels/tires for different rides - I had the same idea for my Cannondale T2000. The stock wheels have Mavic A719s with a 135mm rear hub spacing that allows the use of a wide range (with 34 tooth low cog) mountain cassette. I couldn't locate a combination of rims/hubs that would give me enough weight loss and allow a narrower tire (23mm) without spending way more than I cared to spend. In addition, the narrower rim would have required me to re-adjust the reach on my brake pads every time I changed from one rim width to another - something I personally consider a pain. I decided to just change the tires to Conti Ultra Gatorskins in 28mm as a compromise and that works okay for me.
Good luck with your search.
Oh, by the way, there are a few good touring bikes in your price range - The Cannondale T? (what used to be the T1000), the Trek 520, the Raleigh Sojourn, a new Masi (can't remember the model but you could search their site), the Surley Long Haul Trucker, the REI touring bike (at $999 but if you are a member of REI the 20% coupon they have now makes the price around $800 - maybe buy this AND keep your Trek?). Just a few suggestions to consider.
Regarding the idea of switching wheels/tires for different rides - I had the same idea for my Cannondale T2000. The stock wheels have Mavic A719s with a 135mm rear hub spacing that allows the use of a wide range (with 34 tooth low cog) mountain cassette. I couldn't locate a combination of rims/hubs that would give me enough weight loss and allow a narrower tire (23mm) without spending way more than I cared to spend. In addition, the narrower rim would have required me to re-adjust the reach on my brake pads every time I changed from one rim width to another - something I personally consider a pain. I decided to just change the tires to Conti Ultra Gatorskins in 28mm as a compromise and that works okay for me.
Good luck with your search.
Oh, by the way, there are a few good touring bikes in your price range - The Cannondale T? (what used to be the T1000), the Trek 520, the Raleigh Sojourn, a new Masi (can't remember the model but you could search their site), the Surley Long Haul Trucker, the REI touring bike (at $999 but if you are a member of REI the 20% coupon they have now makes the price around $800 - maybe buy this AND keep your Trek?). Just a few suggestions to consider.
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Gear Talk / Re: Road Shoe vs Touring Shoe?
« on: March 28, 2010, 10:11:05 am »
I have used Teva sandals with plain step-on pedals, Look 296 road pedals with mega-buck Sidis and just about everything in between on my touring bikes. My current set-up includes Shimano A530s with either very old Cannondale mountain shoes or somewhat newer Specialized "touring" shoes - both with Shimano multi-directional cleats.
I loved the Tevas but they slipped off the pedals when the soles were wet and the Sidis were the most comfortable shoes I have ever worn but the soles were too slick and I found myself having difficulty putting my foot down on wet asphalt when stopping. The present set-up, while not as "cool" as some works really well for me - just my 2-cents.
I loved the Tevas but they slipped off the pedals when the soles were wet and the Sidis were the most comfortable shoes I have ever worn but the soles were too slick and I found myself having difficulty putting my foot down on wet asphalt when stopping. The present set-up, while not as "cool" as some works really well for me - just my 2-cents.
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Gear Talk / Re: 2002 Trek 520 - NEW
« on: March 24, 2010, 11:28:08 am »
Okay - You have handled the situation fairly and the bike store owner chose to be hard-nosed about it. It's a shame - he lost a customer and you missed out on a fair deal on a great bike. Good luck on finding a replacement for that 520.
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Gear Talk / Re: 2002 Trek 520 - NEW
« on: March 23, 2010, 12:25:58 pm »
I fail to see how this shop owner has harmed anyone - he has a bike for sale and has set a price. If you don't like the price, don't buy the bike - not every retail business is eBay. Not every price is open to negotiation. If his price is too high he will have to continue to "eat" this bike but remember it is up to him to decide how he wants to market HIS merchandise. If he wants to raise the price after a specific period of time (probably the result of how he perceived the price negotiation attempt), that is his right as well - things go "off sale" all of the time.
I am not a bike shop owners nor do I know the identity of the owner in question here.
I am not a bike shop owners nor do I know the identity of the owner in question here.
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Gear Talk / Re: Novara Randonee Crash
« on: October 01, 2009, 01:00:55 pm »
The Surly LHT is a great choice. Good luck and let us know how you like the new bike after you have had a chance to put on some miles.
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Gear Talk / Re: Novara Randonee Crash
« on: September 30, 2009, 06:40:46 am »
You should probably check with REI before you replace the fork - they might have a replacement. From looking at the REI website, the fork looks a lot like the Surly Long Haul Trucker fork I recently installed on my Cannondale T2000. I picked up the fork on eBay from a guy who bought it for a project but then decided against doing. The fork cost me $80 delivered (but I also had to buy a crown race and star nut, cut the steerer tube to length and have a bike shop install the crown race and star nut - spent about $125.00 for everything). Harris Cycles in MA can get you a fork as well for a bit more $$$ than I spent on eBay.
The problem I see in your case is that REI does not list the geometry of their bikes on-line so you can't tell if the fork rake of the replacement (45 mm) is the same as the fork rake of the original. Maybe REI or someone else can tell you.
Kona also sells replacement steel road forks but the Surly is closer to the style of your REI bike. Good luck.
The problem I see in your case is that REI does not list the geometry of their bikes on-line so you can't tell if the fork rake of the replacement (45 mm) is the same as the fork rake of the original. Maybe REI or someone else can tell you.
Kona also sells replacement steel road forks but the Surly is closer to the style of your REI bike. Good luck.
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General Discussion / Re: Neck and shoulder pain
« on: September 27, 2009, 07:14:40 am »
Several people have contributed to this thread with advice/questions but the member who originally started the thread seems to have dropped off the forum.
We all continue to offer suggestions and opinions but without feedback from the person who originally asked for advice does it make sense to guess what he should do?
We all continue to offer suggestions and opinions but without feedback from the person who originally asked for advice does it make sense to guess what he should do?
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Gear Talk / Re: Brooks saddle break in period
« on: September 23, 2009, 03:39:06 pm »
I picked up some 100% Neatsfoot oil from Velo Orange and applied it sparingly to the underside/rear of the saddle, just in the sit-bone area. The leather took the oil in fairly quickly and the resulting softness was noticeable (I don't plan on using any more oil - don't want to overdo it). The first ride out since this treatment went very well so I think this just might be what I was looking for from the beginning.
Again, thanks to all who contributed to this discussion.
Again, thanks to all who contributed to this discussion.
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General Discussion / Re: Any experience with Surly LHT forks
« on: September 23, 2009, 03:31:47 pm »
Okay - it will be a bit longer before I can report on how the bike handles during a 50-mile+ ride. Due to the rain/flooding north Georgia has experienced this past week, I will not be able to visit my favorite test track (The Silver Comet Trail) until mid-October. Also, a test under loaded-touring conditions will not be forthcoming because the only tours I have planned until 2011 are fully supported.
That said, I was able to get two ten-mile rides in between the downpours on our community's bike/walking trail. The route consists of a 3.9 mile+/- figure eight loop that (given I live in the mountains) is very steep in several places with more uphill switchbacks than I care to remember. During those rides, the Cannondale handled as well as or better than any bike I have ever owned - and much better than this bike with the original Cannondale fork. I tried climbing while standing with my hands on the "hoods", climbing while seated with my hands on the "tops", going downhill "no-hands" (couldn't do that before), slow turns, fast turns, tight turns, and so on - all without a hitch.
I'm not ready to endorse this change as an option for anyone else - again, I don't know how it will handle with a loaded handlebar bag and 30 pounds strapped to a front low rider rack, but it works for me. If I have any additional information to pass on in the future, I will be sure to post it here. Take care all.
That said, I was able to get two ten-mile rides in between the downpours on our community's bike/walking trail. The route consists of a 3.9 mile+/- figure eight loop that (given I live in the mountains) is very steep in several places with more uphill switchbacks than I care to remember. During those rides, the Cannondale handled as well as or better than any bike I have ever owned - and much better than this bike with the original Cannondale fork. I tried climbing while standing with my hands on the "hoods", climbing while seated with my hands on the "tops", going downhill "no-hands" (couldn't do that before), slow turns, fast turns, tight turns, and so on - all without a hitch.
I'm not ready to endorse this change as an option for anyone else - again, I don't know how it will handle with a loaded handlebar bag and 30 pounds strapped to a front low rider rack, but it works for me. If I have any additional information to pass on in the future, I will be sure to post it here. Take care all.
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