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Panaracer Gravel Kings SK in 38mm wide (tubeless if your rims allow, if not, clinchers are fine aswell)

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I will be having a new wheelset built for touring ...

 am looking very closely at the new Levithian rims in 36/36v .... I wish to use tubeless tyres but will also be able to use normal clinchers:

https://astralcycling.com/products/leviathan-tandem

Son Delux Wide Body dynamo hub (builds a stronger wheel):

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/12/30/wide-body-son-delux-generator-hub/

rear hub is still undecided (My Miyata 1000 has 126mm spacing and I don't want to have that widened to 130mm), so I may get a good used rear hub with steel axle such as a Royce, Phil Wood etc

spokes will be Sapim Strong

lights will be Supernova E3 Triple 2 for the front and the Supernova rear light

I will also get the E Werk charging setup

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I'm planning a solo tour (wild camping/fishing) along the coast of Ireland, and I'm looking at using Panaracer Gravel King SK (38's) and will use them tubeless

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General Discussion / Re: Custom touring bike vs. mass produced
« on: June 10, 2019, 03:46:23 pm »
my first post (great forum!)... im UK based

I've recently bought a 1985 Miyata One Thousand touring bike in mint condition ....

I ride Audax but want to do some touring (wild camping/fishing) and my 1st trip planed is a 650km fishing/camping trip along the south coast of Ireland

I'm 5'7 and looked carefully at the geometry and the most important critera was the top tube length ... My other bike is a Trek Emonda Sl6 with Dura Ace Di2 and that is a 52cm ....

top tube length of the Miyata in 50cm is alsmost identical to the 52cm Trek

bought the Miyata and I went for a bike fit from a local LBS who was recomended by several cyclists in my area

the price was not cheap (£200) and what I can say is that before I had the bike fit, I set the bike to what I felt was correct ....

after the bike fit, things were set up a lot differently .... hard to explain the difference, but the easiest way to describe it is that before the bike fit, I was sitting 'ontop' of the bike, where as now I'm sitting 'inside' the bike (if that makes sense)

the fit that I had took over 2 1/2 hours, was amazing as it was in 3D and the computer automatically gave all the angles and highlighted the problems in red (amazing software) ... cleats were also properly set, I needed insoles in my shoes, arse measurements were taken to ensure that the saddle is suitable, handlebar width was checked etc etc

the fit I had was with software called STT 3DMA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wx_tkGUtYTY

so what I'm saying is that you don't have to get a custom frame built because even that might not fit you properly if the people making it don't have the correct software to check each and every angle as you cycle

get a bike that has the correct top tube length..... go for a proper computerized 3D bike fit .... you amy need to change the stem length, handlebars, saddle  etc, but you will have a bike that fits proper, and which is comfortable for long distances




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