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Gear Talk / Lower Gearing on Road Bike is presently Problems w
« on: September 13, 2006, 11:44:30 am »
I addressed this topic on June 18 and received very helpful direction. I was looking for a lighter weight road bike and lower gearing. After visiting numerous shops and riding varied makes and models and considering the solutions I received here, I settled on the Specialized Sequoia Elite and finally found a dealer that I was comfortable with and who would work with me on the customization in the gearing.
The first problem was that the 2006 model of which I was familiar and had tested was no longer available (end of year stock gone from Mfr stock), and my only option was to order a 2007 Model. When it arrived I found that Specialized had downgraded the Shimano 105 components to Shimano Tiagra, along with several other much less important and very minor changes, some good, some not. I accepted this because I was changing a portion of these components anyway.
I took possession of the bike with the following modifications based on the suggestions I received here, and dealer recommendations &
1. Cassette: SRAM PG-950 9-speed 12-26t stock, was changed to a SRAM PG990 9-speed 11-34t.
2. Rear Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra stock, was changed to a Shimano Devore XT Mountain.
3. Chain: Shimano HG73, 9-speed stock, was changed to a Shimano HG93 HyproGlide, an upgrade according to the Dealer.
4. Chainrings: 50x39x30T is stock. I opted to try these for a while with the rear mountain gearing before proceeding to the next step of changing the smaller 30T to a 26 or 24T, and I find that I am fine, at least without a load of gear, with the 30T, so I left that alone for now.
5. Chain Watcher: The bike comes with a chain watcher installed stock, not the one I would have put on, but I left that alone.
6. Front Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra, 31.8mm clamp, bottom pull is stock, and I left that alone.
7. Brake Levers/Shift Levers: Shimano Tiagra, 9 Speed STI are stock, and no changes were made here except I had a Shimano DuraAce Shift Selector Indicator Tube installed in the rear cable, a nice addition which indicates at a glance what gear you are in.
The first several short rides involved a couple of return trips for minor adjustment and tuning of the gearing. This was not unexpected, although I noticed that the bike did not seem to want to stay in tune mostly, in the rear the chain seemed to want to jump from one gear to next and back and forth, and shifting seemed to jump two to three gears on one shift. Minor turning by the dealer would correct it, but 15-20 miles later it would be back.
Then one day, about ten miles out into a ride I was climbing a slight hill and the left pedal and crank arm fell off still clipped to my foot. Luckily I was not moving fast or going downhill, and it only caused me to fall to the right into a grassy embankment. One skinned knee later I am thinking this does not say much for Specialized quality control. But, the dealer said it was his fault for not checking every nut and bolt on the bike before delivering it. Whatever the case, apparently and unknown to me, a dust cover and the nut that holds the crank arm on came loose and was lost during the ride. Under pressure or a climb, off it came. This situation initially had nothing to do with the gearing problem except that apparently when I laid over onto the embankment, I bent the derailleur hanger which really did a number on the tuning. Dealer said the hanger is designed to bend first so that the frame is not damaged. In any case he was able to re-true the hanger, and re-tune the derailleur. The bike ran great.
I am now only about 35 miles onto the last re-tuning and it is acting up again. The chain does not want to stay in one gear in the rear, jumping first up a gear, then down a gear or two. This occurs intermittently. Shifting sometimes takes me 2 or 3 gears up or down in a shift. I also find it sometimes (not always) difficult to shift from the middle chainring to the large chainring in front, with it wanting to stay in the middle. The problems occur often enough to ruin a pleasurable ride.
This bike is a dream-come-true to ride when it is in tune and I love it, but it does not stay in tune for more than 25-30 miles, and thus is turning into more of a real pain. I realize that initially the cables on a new bike will stretch and need re-tuned, but not that quickly or frequently.
I thought that perhaps the chain was some kind of problem, or it was incompatible with a different manufactures part, but the dealer assures me it is a better chain than the stock chain. I do not find fault with the dealers ability to tune the bike because when I leave the shop it runs fine for a while. Any ideas or assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Bowdrie.
The first problem was that the 2006 model of which I was familiar and had tested was no longer available (end of year stock gone from Mfr stock), and my only option was to order a 2007 Model. When it arrived I found that Specialized had downgraded the Shimano 105 components to Shimano Tiagra, along with several other much less important and very minor changes, some good, some not. I accepted this because I was changing a portion of these components anyway.
I took possession of the bike with the following modifications based on the suggestions I received here, and dealer recommendations &
1. Cassette: SRAM PG-950 9-speed 12-26t stock, was changed to a SRAM PG990 9-speed 11-34t.
2. Rear Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra stock, was changed to a Shimano Devore XT Mountain.
3. Chain: Shimano HG73, 9-speed stock, was changed to a Shimano HG93 HyproGlide, an upgrade according to the Dealer.
4. Chainrings: 50x39x30T is stock. I opted to try these for a while with the rear mountain gearing before proceeding to the next step of changing the smaller 30T to a 26 or 24T, and I find that I am fine, at least without a load of gear, with the 30T, so I left that alone for now.
5. Chain Watcher: The bike comes with a chain watcher installed stock, not the one I would have put on, but I left that alone.
6. Front Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra, 31.8mm clamp, bottom pull is stock, and I left that alone.
7. Brake Levers/Shift Levers: Shimano Tiagra, 9 Speed STI are stock, and no changes were made here except I had a Shimano DuraAce Shift Selector Indicator Tube installed in the rear cable, a nice addition which indicates at a glance what gear you are in.
The first several short rides involved a couple of return trips for minor adjustment and tuning of the gearing. This was not unexpected, although I noticed that the bike did not seem to want to stay in tune mostly, in the rear the chain seemed to want to jump from one gear to next and back and forth, and shifting seemed to jump two to three gears on one shift. Minor turning by the dealer would correct it, but 15-20 miles later it would be back.
Then one day, about ten miles out into a ride I was climbing a slight hill and the left pedal and crank arm fell off still clipped to my foot. Luckily I was not moving fast or going downhill, and it only caused me to fall to the right into a grassy embankment. One skinned knee later I am thinking this does not say much for Specialized quality control. But, the dealer said it was his fault for not checking every nut and bolt on the bike before delivering it. Whatever the case, apparently and unknown to me, a dust cover and the nut that holds the crank arm on came loose and was lost during the ride. Under pressure or a climb, off it came. This situation initially had nothing to do with the gearing problem except that apparently when I laid over onto the embankment, I bent the derailleur hanger which really did a number on the tuning. Dealer said the hanger is designed to bend first so that the frame is not damaged. In any case he was able to re-true the hanger, and re-tune the derailleur. The bike ran great.
I am now only about 35 miles onto the last re-tuning and it is acting up again. The chain does not want to stay in one gear in the rear, jumping first up a gear, then down a gear or two. This occurs intermittently. Shifting sometimes takes me 2 or 3 gears up or down in a shift. I also find it sometimes (not always) difficult to shift from the middle chainring to the large chainring in front, with it wanting to stay in the middle. The problems occur often enough to ruin a pleasurable ride.
This bike is a dream-come-true to ride when it is in tune and I love it, but it does not stay in tune for more than 25-30 miles, and thus is turning into more of a real pain. I realize that initially the cables on a new bike will stretch and need re-tuned, but not that quickly or frequently.
I thought that perhaps the chain was some kind of problem, or it was incompatible with a different manufactures part, but the dealer assures me it is a better chain than the stock chain. I do not find fault with the dealers ability to tune the bike because when I leave the shop it runs fine for a while. Any ideas or assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Bowdrie.