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Messages - Pat Lamb

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556
Gear Talk / Re: Why are most of the tires wire bead?
« on: December 02, 2013, 02:11:29 pm »
I'll typically run wire beads on my tires because they're good enough, but I've started carrying a folding tire as a spare.  It's worked; I had to use my wire bead spares (trifold then squeezed down), but I've never had to use the folding spare.  If I did use the spare, I'd probably swap it for a wire bead spare and return the folding tire to spare status at the next bike shop.

557
Gear Talk / Re: Can we survive the Transamerica with no cyclocomputer?
« on: December 01, 2013, 10:24:54 pm »
Given that the Adventure Cycling maps' "field of view" is so narrow, I guess it's a good idea to carry a state map as well.

Each state is eager to give visitors a map.  If you drive in on an interstate, stop at a rest area and pick one up.  Otherwise, look for visitor centers. 

We rarely used or needed a larger map, but they come in handy when you're sitting in a camp or motel room and the TV, radio, or ranger mentions there's some big storms over near Mud Puddle.  Not being from the state, you don't know which direction it is from Bug Juice, where you're spending the night, to Mud Puddle.  So do you relax or go tuck yourself in for the night?

Larger maps are also useful for unexpected things that might pop up, like a cracked tooth or unexpected asthma attack (where's the nearest large town where you might find medical or dental care?), or if you have to decide to order a new tire express mail or go off-route to find one.

I suppose a smart phone, tablet, or netbook can help with questions like these if you have cell coverage, but free state maps are a nice backup.  Mail them home when you leave the state, like you do with your AC maps.

558
Gear Talk / Re: Can we survive the Transamerica with no cyclocomputer?
« on: November 30, 2013, 08:25:29 pm »
One set of maps will do nicely.  If you don't have one yet, a map holder, handlebar bag with map holder, or front rack and pack (with map holder) will help greatly.

I'd recommend a cyclocomputer just for the odometer.  (Get one to display daily mileage and cadence if you want -- cadence is sufficiently meaningless that it won't distract you, and may even help on some of long climbs.)  Out west, you may not need it; only cross road in 15 miles, or 60 miles, is usually distinctive enough that you don't need much help.  In the east, particularly in the mountains of Kentucky, Missouri, and Virginia, the odometer really helps.  Next turn after 3.2 miles can be anywhere from 7 minutes to 30 minutes, depending on slope and how tired you are; and you might have passed a dozen other roads in the meantime.

I think my favorite was somewhere in Missouri, where they had the number of a metal ID tag on a telephone pole to identify the turn.  Even though I couldn't find the number when I inspected the pole, I got that one; the one in Kentucky with no road sign, I missed.  Fortunately the family on their porch a quarter mile up the road set me straight!

559
Routes / Re: Missoula to Glacier?
« on: November 29, 2013, 05:02:20 pm »
Worth it unless you're on a very tight schedule. 

My daughter and I veered north from Missoula to (West) Glacier on our TA, spent a day, and then went west on the Northern Tier.  We took the Great Parks route up through Seeley Lake to Columbia Falls.  You really only need the AC map to find your way out of Missoula and Columbia Falls; at least when we were there towards the end of July, I'd have been happy to stay on U.S. 2 and skip the washboard gravel.  I think there are two critical turns, and there's not much chance of missing either.

Glacier is well worth the detour.  Beautiful place, magnificent views, gorgeous glacier lilies, but the water's cold as all get out.

560
Gear Talk / Re: best touring frames
« on: November 22, 2013, 11:18:09 am »
Anyway, the "best" touring frame is the one I have.

No way, that one's third best.  Best is the one I want.  Second best is the one I have.

Thus proving John's point, I guess.

 :)

561
General Discussion / Re: hybrid7.2 trek for touring bike?
« on: November 14, 2013, 09:09:19 am »
If all the luggage is being carried by your "personal sag," you might be able to ride the Specialized.  I suspect the limiting factor will be how well you can climb 10% grades in the low gear on that bike.  Two water bottles (with motorcycle re-supply where necessary), map or GPS, snack or lunch money, sunscreen, sunglasses, spare tube, and maybe an energy bar or two, and a small rain jacket -- that's all you need with you.  Shouldn't be a problem for a road bike to carry in a bar bag and/or saddle bag.

562
Gear Talk / Re: Trek 520 poor brakes
« on: November 13, 2013, 10:46:57 pm »
Petejack, changing the levers doesn't make any sense.  Cables and housing wear out in the normal course of riding a bike; so does handlebar tape.  Unless the levers start to rust, they'll last approximately forever.

You're going to have to replace the tape when you replace the housing.  I'll usually replace cables and housing every 5,000-10,000 miles.  It's nice to get some fresh tape about then, as well, and all three are down-in-the-noise cheap.  Don't think the cables and housing need replacement?  Don't want to take everything apart to check for fraying or cracking?  Want to bet $20 against your life that the cables didn't fray in the last year when there's a stop sign at the bottom of a long, steep hill?

Go ahead.  Replace the cables and housing.  It'll almost certainly improve your braking.  Then splurge for another $10-15 and put on new bar tape as a treat for a job well done.

563
Gear Talk / Re: Trek 520 poor brakes
« on: November 12, 2013, 04:55:53 pm »
Kool Stop salmon pads work as well as anything else I've tried when wet.  However, as far as I'm concerned, their biggest advantage is that they don't pick up grit or small bits of gravel.  That means the KS pads aren't acting like lathe tools to cut your rim down when you brake, and you don't have to listen to the grinding noise while braking.  Nothing else comes close, IME.

564
General Discussion / Re: Northern Tier For Non Campers
« on: November 08, 2013, 09:41:03 pm »
We met a couple on a tandem doing the same thing, only west to east, in 2009.  As I recall, they were cranking out some big miles (80-100 per day) to meet their schedule.  Their light load (compared to us) allowed them to make those miles, at least as far as Montana.

That couple had motel reservations clear across the U.S.A.  In the east, I suspect that was overkill; in the west, not so much.  There's only so many places you can stay out west, and they get full on summer weekends.  For the most part you should be able to make it within 75 miles per day.  I think the Mazama to Concrete, WA day might be a bit longer than that, but you should be in really good shape by the time you hit Washington Pass going west.

565
General Discussion / Re: Road bike for touring??
« on: November 04, 2013, 09:11:09 am »
johnsondasw, without knowing the details of those climbs, I think you've proved DaveB's point.  The average grade for the climbs you cited is 3% or less.  While climbing 2,000 or 3,000 feet is quite respectable, 3% hardly compares with some of the steeper grades (10% or more) in the Appalachians, Ozarks, or even the long 6% climbs in some of the Rockies passes.

566
Gear Talk / Re: Bike purchasing advice needed
« on: October 28, 2013, 03:36:57 pm »
It's an option to buy used and tinker. Just that, an option, and a viable one. You all are reacting as if I were recommending human sacrifice.

Not at all -- just an arm and a leg.  :)

I took the price you paid for your frame ($150) as a reasonable price for a 25 year +/- 10 year old frame.  I just saw an email from a bike shop a few weeks ago advertising $150 for their "change cables and adjust brakes and derailer" winter special.  Add that to the $240 of parts you'd identified, toss in another $20 for brake pads and $40 for a new saddle, and the refurb/upgrade cost is three times the frame cost.

When I see a post asking a basic question like, "Where can I get a touring bike that allows for an upright riding position?" I assume they're looking for a ready-to-ride solution.  (Yes, I know what they say about assumptions, but I think this one's justified in context.)  That, to me, means either a stock bike or one that someone has built up for them.  Labor costs, and the possibilties of being led astray by racer wannabes, go up the more you ask for someone else to do.

567
Gear Talk / Re: Bike purchasing advice needed
« on: October 27, 2013, 05:32:44 pm »
I was just pointing out that a $1,500 budget is fine. Let's say she's less lucky than I was and finds an excellent condition Miyata 610 for $300. She then needs a set of riser bars ($40), a stem adapter ($20), stem ($30), grips ($20), thumb shifters ($50), brake levers ($30). Throw in a set of tires for $50 and she now has the exact setup she wants for $540 and has nearly $1,000 left for racks and panniers.

That's great if you're a long-time DIY bicycle mechanic; most bike shops would throw up their hands in horror at spending three times the cost of a frame for mods -- not to mention new tires, brake pads, and saddle, as well as cables and housing.  If you know what you want and how to get there, great.  If you want to go out and get something off the shelf that'll work for you, it tends to cost a bit more (and come with a warranty and service).  Fortunately, most of the commercial touring bikes on the market today do everything the OP want, and most of them are within the $1500 budget.  For someone who's willing and able to pay that, all that's left to worry about is the fit.

568
Gear Talk / Re: Tire and tube storage
« on: October 21, 2013, 10:29:29 am »
Why own extra tires? Tires are expensive, unlikely to fail unexpectedly, and can be purchased quickly.  I'm looking forward to hearing why others think it's important to keep all these tires around for so long that rubber degradation is an issue.

Yes tires and tubes can be outrageously expensive if you buy them on the spot from your local bike shop.  As you do.  Little more reasonable price if you buy them on sale over the internet.  I don't like wasting money on tires and tubes so I buy them when on sale.  And buy them in bulk since I have lots of bikes.

Agree with everything Russ said.  To extend one point, shipping and handling will eat you up on one tire.  Spread it over 4-6 tires, and the per-tire S&H goes down to reasonable.

One other thing, touring tires are often hard to find.  In my fair city, I can buy 700Cx23s and 25s, 28s are rare, 32s and 35s are only available in knobby 'cross tires.  Since I prefer smooth 32s with flexible sidewalls, I have to order them.  Decent selection and better prices drive me to the 'net.  If I could persuade an LBS to stock my preferred tire, I'd buy them there -- but only 2-3 per year.

569
Routes / Re: Steamboat Springs, CO to Kentucky
« on: October 20, 2013, 03:02:03 pm »
What part of Kentucky?  It took us about a week to ride across the state.  FWIW, it took us a bit over a month to get from western Kentucky to the middle of Colorado.

From Steamboat Springs, you have a short jog to Kremmling to pick up the TransAm.  Note it goes south past Breckenridge to cross Hoosier Pass, then a long-ish day to get down to Canon City.  If you're in Steamboat, you should have a better idea of weather and snow on the passes in early November than I do.  From there, you're on the high plains in late autumn / early winter.

FWIW, the Missouri Ozarks were the second hardest part of the TA for me, only behind eastern Kentucky.  If you catch that ride to Fort Collins, you might consider making your own route east to pick up the Katy Trail, then cut south to pick up the TransAm near Kaskaskia.

570
Gear Talk / Re: Tire and tube storage
« on: October 19, 2013, 11:13:17 am »
I keep most of my tires folded (in three sections, if necessary) in a plastic garbage bag under my bed.  (Seriously!)  The bag protects them from ozone from electric motors like refrigerator, freezer, or tools if they were in the garage, and under the bed they're protected from most temperature extremes.

I wear mine out, so they've not been stored for more than 2-3 years.  Next fall it'll be time to watch the on-line sales emails again to restock.

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