Messages

61

Gear Talk / Lighter weight touring options

« on: January 05, 2007, 01:55:38 pm »

I agree that weight is probably a red herring here.  Your knee doesn't know how much weight is on the bike, it only knows how much force you are putting into your pedals and your rpm.  This is most easily addressed by keeping your gearing in mind at all times.  Any time you fomd yourself trying to force the pedals, lower your gear.

As for reducing weight, I wouldn't worry too much about the bike at first.  Look at what you are carrying and what you are using.  It is much cheaper and more effective to simply leave things at home rather than buying super-light gear.  

Next, consider your method of touring.  I have this theory that the amount of discomfort experienced on a tour can never be reduced, it can only be moved.  Carry a lot of gear and you will live like a king in camp, but may struggle climbing hills.  Go with a "stupid-light" load and riding will feel easy, but camping may be less than enjoyable.  Or move the discomfort to your wallet with a credit card tour.

I've done a few short tours with "stupid-light" loads of 15 pounds or less.  I fashioned my loads after the Ray Way of backpacking.  When travelling this light, you must always be aware of your surroundings and what you will be facing in the near future.  It is almost impossible to stay warm and dry regardless of the weather with such a light load.  Instead, you must pick your camping spots based on local terrain in order to find the spots that will be the warmest and most sheltered.  For instance, opt for a grove of trees on the shoulder of hill rather than an exposed hilltop.

Sean

62

Gear Talk / Need a new tent

« on: January 27, 2007, 06:56:55 pm »

I've got a Bibler bivy, does that count?  It's been great to me, but I wouldn't use it if the weather wasn't threatening.  Instead, I'd just sleep out.  In the plains, I found my best option to be to use a standard tent, don't bother mounting the fly, and just sleep on top of my pad with no sleeping bag.  In this way, the tent merely acts as a bug shelter and nothing more.

Sean

63

Gear Talk / handlebar,shifter,brake options

« on: December 02, 2006, 02:42:37 am »

Mixing road and mountain components is not a problem if you stick with Shimano.  Road derailluers work with mountain shifters, and vice versa.  You can also feel free to mix road and mountain cassettes, assuming they have the correct number of gears and your chain and rear derailluer can handle the number of teeth.  Cranksets can also be switched, again assuming that front and rear derrailuers and chain can handle the change in size.  I do not believe you can swap road and mountain shifters and derailluers in the same manner if you are using Sram.  Campagnolo makes flat bar controls that work with thier derailluers, but they may be limiting if you are looking for a stump-pulling gear, or trying to keep to a nominal budget.  In general, match the shifter and derailluer brand and you should be fine.

As for the handlebar shape, as biker_james pointed out, the advantage of the drop bars is more hand positions.  In truth, I doubt most tourists on drop bars (including myself) spend very little time in the drops, but do switch from the tops, to the ramps, to the hoods, and back fairly often.  In that case, your barends give essentially the same positions when set up normally.  Trying to get "aero" on a touring bike just seems to be a contradiction of terms.

Sean

64

Gear Talk / Possible Crankset Worries

« on: September 06, 2006, 02:29:06 pm »

I agree with Alex that it is probably not the bottom bracket.  Besides his suggestions, check the chainring bolts and the condition of the chain.  If you bought it from a bike shop, maybe the easiest thing to do is just to bring it by and ask them for help.

Sean

65

Gear Talk / 531 st vs 853

« on: August 01, 2006, 11:07:32 pm »

For all Reynolds tubing, the different numbers indicate different types of steel, but not necessarily different yube sizes.  853 is stronger than 531 so it can be drawn into thinner tubes that still possess good strength qualities.  With thinner tubes, the bike will be lighter.  If both the Trek and the IF have identical tubes (diameter, wall thickness, butting profile) it will be impossible to discern between the two.  They will have identical ride characteristics and identical weights.

However, the IF being a newer design probably has oversized, thin-wall tubes which will make it both lighter and stiffer.  How much of a difference?  Probably not much.  Enough to be considered a "real advantage"?  Maybe, maybe not.

Sean

66

Gear Talk / Tents

« on: July 30, 2006, 12:57:31 pm »

I think you're looking in the right direction, but I would consider going with a slighlty larger tent.  2-man tents don't weigh that much more than a 1-man tent and offer much more room for both you and you're gear.  I am especially fond of the extra headroom in 2-man tents.  For me, 1-man tents don't offer any advantage over bivy sacks.

My other requirement when I was shopping for a tent was continuous pole sleeves.  Yes, it takes a little longer to set-up, but the tent is stronger and there is more interior room.

My tent is a now old and battered North Face, I believe the model was called the Cirrus.  You can have it when you pry it out of my cold, dead hands. :eg:

Sean

67

Gear Talk / Madden Handlebar bag attachment

« on: July 25, 2006, 04:13:03 pm »

I'm not familiar with your bag, so take this for whatever it's worth.  

Can you bend the rod so that the bag is level?  Also, it sounds like this mounting system also uses an elastic cord (or similar) wrapped around the headtube or attached to the fork.  Does hooking this up level the bag out?

Alternatively, you may consider a new rack assuming it fits your bag.  For example there is this pricy rack from Rivendell: http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/baggage_racks/20031.html
Or you can try a Klickfix mount and bag frame from Wallbike: http://www.wallbike.com/klickfix/hbadapter.html

Sean

This message was edited by wanderingwheel on 7-25-06 @ 12:15 PM

68

Gear Talk / New bike advice (titanium or full cabon fiber)

« on: July 23, 2006, 05:46:09 pm »

The material a bike is made out of is much less important than the design of the bike.  What I mean is that a bike can be made out of any of the common materials to exhibit any quality or trait.  As an example, consider aluminum.  Many people will claim that aluminum bikes are harsh and overly-stiff, but it is the large tubes that gave them these traits, not the aluminum itself.  On the flip side, the original aluminum bikes made by Vitus and others are often said to be the softest bikes every made.  Again, it is the size of the tubes, this time very small tubes, that gave the bikes their riding characteristics, not the material.

Some very general comparisons.  For bikes designed to have similar riding charcteristics, steel will be the heaviest, then titanium, then aluminum.  Using the steel bike as a baseline, the titanium bike will have slightly larger diameter and thinner wall tubes, and the aluminum bike will have even larger and thinner tubes.  For bikes that use identical size tubes (diameter and wall thickness), steel will be the stiffest and heaviest, then titanium, then aluminum.  

Carbon fiber is a wild card because it can be manipulated much more than any metal and does not follow the trends above.  It is true that carbon fiber can damp vibrations better than metal, but since the frame is isolated from the road by wheels and tires, and you are isolated from the frame by saddle, seatpost, shorts, stem, handlebars, tape, and gloves, it does not really make much difference.

Regardless of material, thicker wall tubes will better resist dents and other minor damage.  An incident that seriously damages a bike will probably seriously damage any bike, regardless of material.  A seriously damaged frame made of any material can be repaired, even carbon fiber, but it is generally not cost effecive to do so, even with steel.

In the end, I think it is most important to buy a quality bike, such as a Trek or Litespeed, that you enjoy riding.  Don't worry too much about the material.  Many people say fit is the most important, but remember you can fit on most bike sizes by adjusting the stem and seatpost.  I think what they mean by "fit" is actually "handling," so test ride the bikes if possible and don't buy it if it doesn't feel right to you, even if the salesman says it fits you.

Sean

69

Gear Talk / Flat fix on Rhynolite

« on: July 26, 2006, 04:03:06 am »

What kind of rimstrip are you using?  For some rim/tire combinations, switching from a thick fabric rimstrip, such as Velox, to a thin plastic rimstrip, such as Ritchey or Rox, can go a long way toward solving the problem.

For metal tire levers, Soma makes a very nice set with a metal core and plastic exterior.

Sean

70

Gear Talk / TIRE TALK

« on: June 20, 2006, 07:36:08 pm »

My favorite tires for loaded touring are Avocet Cross, but they are probably overkill for your application.  I tried Paselas on some fast, stupid-light tours and was not impressed by the ride.  Maybe with a little more weight (such as your load) they would work better.  For light loads, I now prefer Rivendell Roly-Polys.  They roll so nicely and corner nearly as well as a racing tire.  Your 40lb load might be a little heavy for the Roly Poly, so consider its big brother, the Ruffy Tuffy.  The ride is only slightly diminished from the Roly Poly but they are much more durable.  In my experience, they are as big, if not bigger, than the 32 Paselas, and have much better road feel.  I would recommend 100-105psi in the rear and 90-95psi in the front for your load.

Sean

71

Gear Talk / Mtn Crank?

« on: June 20, 2006, 07:25:46 pm »

I've tried a mountain crankset for touring, but it's just too low for me.  I'm near the highest gears on the flats, and I don't use the small ring.  For me, a road triple is a better option.

Sean

72

Gear Talk / Beach Cruisers

« on: June 07, 2006, 05:11:06 pm »

Glad you found everything.  Beach cruisers are such fun, simple bikes.  Enjoy yours!

Sean

73

Gear Talk / Beach Cruisers

« on: June 02, 2006, 02:26:37 pm »

A few more thoughts.  To complete your beach cruiser you need a surfboard or body board carrier.  When riding, you must never exceed 15 mph, and should generally stay below 10 mph.  You must never ride your cruiser while wearing either long pants or shoes (sandals are ok).

Sean

74

Gear Talk / Beach Cruisers

« on: June 02, 2006, 12:44:45 pm »

Beach cruisers are still very popular around the beach, at least here in Southern California.   Felt and Nirve both have extensive lines, so check them out for styling ideas.  Stretch cruisers are also popular, such as this one: http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/cb006.htm

Handlebars can vary, but you are generally looking for a wide bar that is gradually swept back.  If you can't find one locally, try bending a piece of pipe of the appropriate size.  If you still can't get it, let me know and I can pick one up for you.

Sean

75

Gear Talk / Straight handlebars

« on: June 01, 2006, 04:02:01 pm »

I think the straight handlebars are chosen due to the riding conditions on those epic treks.  Take a look those pictures again and notice what passes for roads or,  more commonly, goat tracks.  Look also at the amount of gear that they are carrying and the occasionaly miserable weather conditions.  In those conditions, I too would prefer wide flat bars so that I could muscle the heavy load around and comfortably push the bike when needed.  It is not the same as doing a tour on smooth, paved roads.

Sean