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Messages - RussSeaton

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Gravel grinder?  Why not just call it a cyclocross bike.  The bike you linked does have rear rack mounts.  And a metal fork so it should be able to accommodate a clamp on low rider front rack.  If you want to use four panniers.  It can accept 40mm tires.  Most touring bikes can accommodate 35mm tires just fine.  Your current bike takes 28 and 32mm tires.  These should be more than good enough for gravel road riding.  Based on your comments you seem to believe all the paved roads are terrible and need those 5" wide fat bike tires.  I've ridden in parts of the USA and most of western Europe and never found the roads you describe.  Skinny road bike tires are just fine.  And touring bike tires twice as fine.

Now if you just want a new bike, go for it.  I have bought bikes from Nashbar and they are good to deal with.

General Discussion / Re: Which Route Would You Suggest?
« on: November 10, 2016, 01:28:01 pm »
Since you are from England, I would suggest either the Pacific Coast from Seattle to San Diego.  Maybe with some extra time riding into the Sierra mountains and parks nearby.  Or riding around the Great Lakes.  I think you can piece together a few maps to get around them and back to your start more or less.  These routes would provide scenery you do not have in England.  Although riding near water is not that unusual in England since you are an island.  Your Railroad route might have somewhat familiar rural scenery as England.  Maybe.  And as mentioned by others, the weather may play a role.  Also tie together the Lewis Clark, Northern Tier, Trans Am, Pacific into a circle from Seattle.  Scenery, mountains, very different from England.

General Discussion / Re: Which bike should I travel the U.S. with?
« on: November 09, 2016, 11:15:00 am »
Basically the Pugsley is incorrect for almost all riding.  Unless you plan to ride the beaches from Seattle to San Diego.  Or maybe ride the Rocky Mountain trail in the middle of winter and need some flotation for the snow.
That seems a bit harsh Russ. Never tried one myself but I've read where some people prefer them to regular bikes for single track and e.g. gravel logging roads. But I agree they don't appear to be very good for the ACA sort of touring on roads.

I meant it.  Big fat soft 3", 4", 5" tires are wrong for almost all riding.  Single track (dirt trails?) and gravel roads?  Are people complaining about how awful their 2" mountain bikes are doing on those?  The huge tires are designed for flotation.  Floating on top of sand.  Floating on top of soft dirt.  Floating on top of snow.  Most trails are fairly solid and hard.  You don't need to float above the surface.  Unless you are riding them when muddy.  Can fat bikes be ridden on trails and hard roads?  Yes.  I have friends who rode them on paved roads and trails this year.  They did OK on them.  But they would have been faster on regular bikes.  And easier riding.  Fat bikes have a purpose and use.  But its narrow.  Anything outside of that specific use is somewhat foolish.  If someone were going to race criteriums I would not advise them to get a fully loaded touring bike.  It would work, but not real good.

Gear Talk / Re: Shifters-integrated vs bar-end
« on: November 08, 2016, 12:39:32 pm »
36 x 11 using 29" x 2.3" tires = 94.7 gear inches and gives just over 25mph @ 90rpm.

So odds are I will be coasting downhill, and on the flat I definitely will not be pedaling a loaded bike at anything like 25mph unless there is a very strong wind behind me.

In fact there are quite a few factory offerings now with 2x MTB drivelines. They are marketed as adventure bikes and are redefining touring bikes. They are equipped for touring nonetheless, with alternative driveline arrangements, fender and rack mounts and multiple bidon mounts, with frame clearance for decent sized tires too. There are a just few examples listed here.

2016 Buyer's Guide: Best Adventure Bikes

700C x 2.3".  No longer road bike touring.  I don't know if this forum has a discussion for off road riding or not.

I ride my touring bike unloaded some.  A higher gear would be nice, required.  Tailwinds, slight downhills.  You go above 25 mph frequently and want to pedal.

Your link showed many mountain bikes, bikes with bar end shifters, disc brakes.  I did not see one example of a road touring bike with STI/SRAM shifters and a double crank and able to hold racks, etc.  Your link proved my point very well.  You cannot buy a road touring bike with a double crank and STI/SRAM road shifters.  Thank you.  You have to make the bike yourself.  Factories do not sell it.

General Discussion / Re: The Schwarzenetruber Amish.
« on: November 08, 2016, 12:17:05 pm »
Seems to me if this federal judge's rules are applied to everyone on everything, then there are no laws at all.  The Mormons or Latter Day Saints had polygamy.  Illegal now in all 50 states.  But this judge would say its legal.  Religious freedom.  Not using lights is not required?  Bull----.  I think we will see an appeal of this nonsense very quickly.  Common safety, your right to swing a bat ends where my nose begins, etc.

The basic premise of allowing people to use any means, horses, wagons, bikes, on interstates when there are no alternatives, YES.  Most states allow that too for bikes.  People talk of riding on interstates in this forum frequently.  Texas I think.  But they all say its not pleasant and they would rather have an alternative.  Its probably legal for me to ride in rush hour traffic downtown.  Legal does not mean I am going to do it.  Its legal for me to climb to the top of Mt. Everest and K2.

Gear Talk / Re: Shifters-integrated vs bar-end
« on: November 08, 2016, 01:06:14 am »
Not so - I decide to forgo my rarely used third ring before I discovered that Sram road and MTB components are compatible.
I'm using a 36/22 x 11-36 combination.
36 x 11 gives me a 25mph top gear at 90rpm. I'll have to be going down a mineshaft to need higher.
22 x 36 gives a 17.4 gear inch low gear - plenty low.
I find the gear progression quite natural and comfortable.

36x11 equals 23.6 mph at 90 rpm.  88.4 gear inches.  Sort of quick.  But with a tailwind and level ground, you can easily go faster.  Almost all down hills will get you much faster than 23.6 mph.  I coast down all hills without pedaling faster than 23.6 mph.  Vast majority of people would be unhappy without a higher gear.

22x36 low gear equals 16.5 gear inches.

Personally, I'd opt for a 40-22 crankset over your 36-22 rings.  Combined with a ten speed SRAM 11-36 cassette of 11-13-15-17-19-22-25-28-32-36.  You would have 15 usable gears on your 20 speed bike.  Your 36-22 gearing results in 14 usable gears.

One of the problems with double mountain bike cranksets on touring bikes is they do not come from the factory setup like this.  Every touring bike comes with a triple crankset and shifters/derailleurs for a triple crank.  If a person wants to use a double crankset on a touring bike, they MUST build it themselves.  Either buy all the parts and frame and build the complete touring bike themselves.  My choice.  Or buy a stock bike with a triple and replace shifters, crankset, derailleur.  Costly and wasteful.

Gear Talk / Re: Shifters-integrated vs bar-end
« on: November 07, 2016, 02:02:26 pm »
Sram road levers are compatible with Sram MTB components.

I have just built a bike with Apex shifters - and was able to eliminate a chainring in the process using a GX 2x10 drive train.

Based on your response I would guess SRAM does not make road levers that work with triple cranksets.  Most touring bikes have triple cranksets.

General Discussion / Re: How often do you do pedal maintenance???
« on: November 05, 2016, 08:15:24 pm »
Never.  I use Shimano SPD and Shimano SPD-SL pedals.  Shimano brand.  They never ever need maintenance.  I did break an axle back in spring 2007.  Had to ride about 7 miles back to the start location in that instance.  Other than that, never had an issue with Shimano brand pedals.

Urban Cycling / Re: E-bikes in bike lanes: ok or invasive species?
« on: November 03, 2016, 10:21:07 pm »
Guess I am not too up to date on E bikes.  I assumed their top speed was 20-25 mph.  High but normal pedal bike speeds.  They were not mopeds.  But the E bikes you see are essentially mopeds going 30+ mph?  Mopeds and bikes should not be sharing a bike lane.  I don't like to share the bike trails with walkers and dog walkers when I am on my bike.

General Discussion / Re: summer sleeping
« on: November 03, 2016, 07:02:46 pm »
My advice may be worthless in this matter.  But...  The Atlantic route is near the ocean.  So you will have cooler temps from the ocean and breezes blowing in from the ocean will be cooler.  The oceans make the coast cooler in the summer and warmer in winter.  The water acts opposite of the land.  It could also rain more than normal along the ocean compared to inland.  And fog and mist from the ocean.  So that will also bring cooler weather.  Temps always go down when it rains.  I have a down sleeping bag rated for about 45 degrees.  It weighs 1 pound.  Same or less than your quilt or blanket.  Ideal for summer camping.  And you can always put on extra clothes/socks at night to sleep.  Carry a balaclava or beanie to use at night.  Its lightweight.

Gear Talk / Re: Shifters-integrated vs bar-end
« on: November 03, 2016, 06:52:23 pm »
I've got a bike with Shimano brifters, one with Campy brifters, and one with bar-ends and like riding them all!.  Frankly, the worst part about switching between bikes is the difference between the Shimano and Campy,

Hmmm.  Not me.  Ergo 9 and 10.  STI 10.  Di2 10.  Zero trouble riding any of them at anytime.  Normally I only ride one bike per day.  So there is never any instantaneous switching involved.  Its just select a bike, then shift it when leaving the driveway.

Gear Talk / Re: Shifters-integrated vs bar-end
« on: November 02, 2016, 05:46:34 pm »
Shimano STI shifters versus Shimano bar end shifters.  Quickness, ease, fun all go to the STI shifters.  Both work.  I used bar end for about 10 years.  Ergo and STI for the past 15 plus years.  Cost is less for the bar end shifters.  About $100 give or take.  When comparing cost be sure to compare the separate brake levers AND bar end shifters to the STI shifters.  The bar end shifters are only shifters, you still have to buy separate brake levers extra.  STI are shifters and brake levers all in one.  Some people claim STI are fragile and break and bar end are 100% solid forever and ever.  Not true.  Did repair an Ergo shifter once.  Never repaired STI.  Friend has a busted but still working STI.  Did wear out bar end after 12 years or so.  Still shifted but no more indexing and was imprecise.

General Discussion / Re: Which bike should I travel the U.S. with?
« on: November 02, 2016, 03:11:00 pm »
Travel the US?  Paved roads from the Atlantic to the Pacific?  Or gravel, dirt roads from Canada to Mexico?  If the former, then I'd suggest selling the Pugsley and buying a normal loaded touring bike for paved roads.  I like panniers, but trailers work too.  If doing that Rocky Mountain ride, then probably your old mountain bike would be best.  I have read the mountain bike route is not gnarly single track and extreme stuff.  Its sort of mild dirt trails and gravel roads.  You could sell the Pugsley and use the funds on the trip.  Basically the Pugsley is incorrect for almost all riding.  Unless you plan to ride the beaches from Seattle to San Diego.  Or maybe ride the Rocky Mountain trail in the middle of winter and need some flotation for the snow.  If riding on the paved roads, use some skinnier smoother tires.

Personally I don't get why folks like to ride in boots or sandals when cranking out long miles, but I guess it is a matter of personal preference.  I much prefer a pair of bike shoes with plenty of mesh for good ventilation, drying, and drainage.

Sandals are superior to your biking shoes for everything you say is important to you.  Sandals eliminate the use of mesh entirely.  So sandals provide great, not good, but great ventilation.  Great drying.  Great drainage.  Mountain bike shoes have their place.  Such as when mountain biking and you might hit your foot on a rock or tree or crash.  And they are better than sandals when you might hit your foot on something.  When I tour I don't hit my feet on stuff.  So sandals are superior to shoes for touring.

I recommend SPD sandals for biking shoes on tours.  And if you are going lightweight, then use these for your off bike walking around too.  They are fine for walking around town and out to supper.  They can easily be your only shoe on tours.  Last night I rode to Home Depot using my SPD sandals.  I was fine walking around the store and in and out of the store with the SPD sandals.  Also fine walking through the construction area on the way.  Around lumber, over rebar, through dirt and gravel.  Could not tell I did not have on regular sneakers.

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