Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - RussSeaton

Pages: 1 ... 48 49 [50] 51
Routes / Re: Autumn in Rockies and Sierras?
« on: February 11, 2009, 09:11:00 am »
Opinion.  I rode a couple weeks in Colorado in early September back in the late 1990s.  It was cold some mornings.  Not so miserable I couldn't ride, but not really enjoyable either.  Rain too.  That was early September, and you are talking about late September, early October.  You could easily have snow and bad roads at all elevations.  Not just the tops of the mountains.  And in Colorado the tops of the mountains can get snow year round.  Not to discourage you, but be prepared with warm clothes.  Gloves, booties, balaclava, etc.

Gear Talk / Re: big, wide feet need touring shoes
« on: February 10, 2009, 05:38:54 pm »
Biking sandals for certain situations.

Gear Talk / Re: new crankset
« on: February 10, 2009, 05:37:37 pm »
Does anyone have experience marrying a mostly shimano 10 sp road bike with a Sugino xd600, 46-36-26 crankset? I'm trying, using a 12-27 cassette, 105 FD-5603 (band type), 110mm BB. Kind of works, but shifting from the middle to the top is not so smooth. Any suggestions on what I can do to improve this? Any other options for crankset gearing in this range on a 10 sp?

Your problem is front derailleurs are shaped for specific size chainrings.  Road front derailleurs are shaped to curve just right along the outside of a 53 tooth chainring.  The tail end of the front derailleur will hit the chain just right when shifting and move the chain up to the big ring.  With your smaller 46 ring, there is a big gap between the tail of the front derailleur and the chain.  The tail of your front derailleur is an inch or so higher than the chain.  So the chain hits towards the middle of the front derailleur when upshifting.  Whereas on a road bike, the gap between the tail of the front derailleur and the chain is less than half inch.  There isn't much of a fix for your situation other than trying different front derailleurs in the hope one will shift better.  Or change the outer and likely middle ring to the common road size of 53-39.

Routes / Re: Great Divide Route - Type of Bike
« on: February 05, 2009, 01:32:17 pm »
I saw on the ACA article that Salsa Cycles has a bike marketed for the GDMBR.  The fargo Complete.

Look good but I did not see front suspension on the bike.  Everything I have read suggest front suspension.

My experience is if you are riding self contained, it is all about weight.  Secondly, it is all about reducing risk of equipment failure.

As you state, its all about weight and reliability.  Non suspension fork is lighter and more reliable than suspension fork.  Now days with huge tires like the Schwalbe Fat Albert tire is available in 26"x2.4" you get plenty of suspension from the tire itself.  No need for extra weight and complexity in a suspension fork.

Youth Bicyle Travel / Re: Sag or not to sag?
« on: February 03, 2009, 04:21:09 pm »
"My thinking right now is to go fully self-supported."   This philosophy would introduce considerable extra cost and hassle.  A touring bike would be required if using panniers.  So whatever the kids are riding right now would not work.  Extra cost.  Racks and panniers would be required.  Or a trailer.  A trailer would likely allow them to use whatever bike they are currently riding.  BOB trailer is $300?  One time use most likely.  I can hear the sales pitch now to the parents.  You need an official touring bike, $800-1200.  And/or a $300 trailer and/or $200 panniers to go on this trip.

I'd suggest having a van/truck carry the gear and having a parent drive it.  Then the kids can likely use whatever bike they already have.  And riding unloaded is generally more fun from a riding perspective than loaded with baggage.  Get the kids interested in riding first, then they can expand to the loaded touring later if they choose.

I understand the desire to do it self supported.  Bigger accomplishment and all that.  Doing it yourself.  But the extra cost and hassle and struggle kind of out weigh this.

Gear Talk / Re: New Touring Bike (RTW)
« on: February 03, 2009, 09:28:17 am »
Russ > you make a good point.  Might I suggest a Waterford.  Beautiful lugged frame.  About $2200 frame/fork to start and they go way way up.

Already own a Waterford 1200.  Made from the finest steel ever made by man.  Reynolds 753.  Short point lugs.  Candy red color.  Beautiful.  My favorite bike.  But I'm not sure I would go for one of Waterfords touring bikes.  The Adventure Cycle 1900 anyway.  Its too nice.  Maybe the TIG welded T-14 would be okay.  Its less nice.  When I've toured my bike took some abuse.  Airline flights in cardboard boxes.  Turned upside down or on the side.  Leaning against stuff and falling over while on tour.  For a touring bike I want a utilitarian bike without any niceness or flash to it.

Routes / Re: Transamerica advice please....
« on: February 02, 2009, 05:04:07 pm »
As already mentioned, look at the routes and see if a non camping route is possible.  Some of the more remote western routes may not offer motels within a days ride (75-100 miles) every day.

Gear Talk / Re: New Touring Bike (RTW)
« on: February 02, 2009, 05:00:38 pm »
For a few years there was a web page showing the results of a frame-breakage test where they took about six frames of each material and put them on a jig that stressed them back and forth as if a strong rider were standing on the pedals and climbing a 10% grade rather fast for a mile a day for two years.

Gear Talk / Re: New Touring Bike (RTW)
« on: February 02, 2009, 09:56:36 am »
It takes special equipment and lots of skill to weld thin gauge steel bicycle tubing, whether steel or aluminum.

Yep, welding, sure, but brazing steel is low tech and ubiquitous.


None of the steel bikes mentioned in this thread (Co-Motion Americano and Pangea and Surly Long Haul) are brazed lugged steel frames.  All are TIG welded frames.  No brazing on them.  No lugs.  If a TIG welded frame breaks, you will have to weld it back together, not braze it.

Gear Talk / Re: New Touring Bike (RTW)
« on: January 30, 2009, 03:10:32 pm »
If you can find a farmer in the middle of the Himalayas to weld your thin gauge steel tubing without burning it up, you'll also be able to find someone to weld your aluminum frame.
Don't count on being able to get any of the materials repaired on the road.  One of our neighbors is a welder with decades of experience and all kinds of certifications and he works on aircraft stuff every day.  When I asked him about this kind of thing and told him how thin the bike tubing was, he said he wouldn't touch it.  We have another friend who is an experienced welder who also teaches welding, so I asked him.  Same thing.  He wouldn't touch it.

Which is why I always say aluminum or steel frame, makes no difference.  Repairability on the road in the middle of nowhere is the same.  Not really repairable at all.  Best option is to have $100 and take a truck, bus, plane, train to the closest big city with a real bike frame maker or machinist shop and have them fix it.  A good machinist shop should have the equipment and person able to weld/braze thin gauge bicycle tubing.  Or a good machinist shop would know who the local person is that does this kind of work and they farm their jobs out to.

Gear Talk / Re: New Touring Bike (RTW)
« on: January 30, 2009, 09:34:09 am »
Assuming RTW stands for "Round The World".  You want a bike that uses 26" mountain bike size tires.  Preferably able to accomodate the 2+" tire widths.  I have heard the 26" size tire is ubiquitous around the world, unlike the 700C size which is only prevalent in the developed parts of the world.  Personally I don't think frame material makes any difference.  Aluminum or steel, take you choice.  If you can find a farmer in the middle of the Himalayas to weld your thin gauge steel tubing without burning it up, you'll also be able to find someone to weld your aluminum frame.  It takes special equipment and lots of skill to weld thin gauge steel bicycle tubing, whether steel or aluminum.  As for gearing and such, I suspect any will do.  The Rohloff internal hub is making a name for tours like this.  Supposedly indestructable.  But it requires a special frame to accomodate it and if anything should ever happen to it, repair would be difficult.

Routes / Re: bike rental in the states
« on: January 29, 2009, 03:25:42 pm »
Most if not all airlines charge you about $75 US each way when you travel with a bike.  No longer is a bike box or case considered just one of your pieces of luggage on international flights.  I do not know of any one who rents bikes from one location and then you drop it off at another.  And New York to North Carolina would be a lengthy rental.  Paying the fee to take your own bike from home seems simple.

Routes / Re: Prague to...
« on: January 26, 2009, 09:12:51 am »
I cycled in the Czech Republic back in the summer of 1992.  It was one of my favorite countries in Europe.  Very rural roads with no traffic.  Small towns.  Back in 1992 it was not the most modern of countries.  But that didn't bother me.  I entered in the south from Austria and went out the north into former East Germany.  Met several families in Czech that I spent several days living with.  And that might be one other reason I liked Czech, nice people.

Gear Talk / Re: new crankset
« on: January 12, 2009, 02:20:45 pm »
You should be able to buy any mountain bike crankset from a place like Nashbar put it on the bike.  I suspect an appropriate bottom bracket would be available at the same store.  The 4 arm 104/64 mm bcd configuration which seems to be most common, only allows a 22 inner ring, which does not get you much lower than your current 24 ring.  The hard to find 58mm 5 arm does go down to 20 for the inner, but its hard to find.  The 44-32-22 rings on the 64mm bcd crank will give you more medium gears with the 44-32 rings.  I guess that may be better than the 42 middle ring you currently have.

Depending on which front derailleur and shifters you have, you may have less than good shifting with the new setup.  Road and mountain bike front derailleurs have different curvature for their different big rings.  And I've heard road shifters and mountain shifters don't particularly like to shift the other type of front derailleur.  So changing cranks may introduce other problems.

Gear Talk / Re: Front Racks
« on: January 12, 2009, 02:05:36 pm »
"auminum things crack at the welds.  Its true for frames, and I suspect it is true for racks."

Do a seaarch on the internet and you will find uncountable pictures of steel frames broken at welds, lugs, dropouts, and brazeons.  Steel has a proven history of breaking.  And if steel tubular frames break, steel tubular racks will too.  Not sure where people get this belief steel racks/bikes are impervious to everything.

Pages: 1 ... 48 49 [50] 51