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Messages - zerodish

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31
Gear Talk / Willie and Max motorcycle bags.
« on: May 30, 2016, 07:47:32 am »
I got a new set of bags thanks to Harley Davidson's trash. These are Willie and Max slant design. I like this design. They will eventually transferred to the rear where they should give me an additional inch of heal clearance. These are fake leather of fairly rugged design. The internal stiffeners are plastic you see on yard signs. They should be easy to replace if they give me any problems. There was a zippered connector that would have went over the rack.I removed them and bolted the bags directly to the rack. https://flic.kr/p/HyskCg

32
Gear Talk / Saddlemen saddlebags.
« on: March 21, 2016, 08:42:01 pm »
No doubt some of thought it would be cool to tour with motorcycle bags. Well I've had a chance to test this and decided it's a bad idea. I will tell you in general what to look out for and give you specifics on one brand. The Saddlemen bags are made out of vinyl. I got mine with the luggage straps cut off and decided to remove the vinyl and discovered I could rip it with my fingers. The bags have a weight limit of 5 pounds each. That is not a misprint it was on the tag inside but not in the information available on the web. The  rack side is hard plastic sewed to vinyl top and bottom this will be very difficult to repair. I once tried to repair a leather shoe and broke the needle embedding it in my thumb. Because the top closes on three side I had to offset the mounting bolts .25 inch and place it 3 inches below the top. This causes the top of the bags to hang out 1 inch. You don't want a bag that closes this way. On regular bags the zipper is the first thing to fail. If I built my own which I might do using the old ones as a pattern I would use a flap and velcro. These bags are $330 new and the mounting hardware weighs several pounds. Some mounting options are extra. I generally use the $90 Trek brand and they last several years. Leather bags may be tough enough for cycling. They will be more expensive than the vinyl ones I do like the shape of the ones shown and would like to try the rear ones with a diagonal cut that whould clear the heals. https://flic.kr/p/FemMAw

33
Gear Talk / A home made 42 tooth cog.
« on: February 15, 2016, 07:42:41 pm »
My set up also has no dish and enough chain take up to work in all gears. The back is 12 13 15 17 20 24 30 42 and the front is 20 36 42. Come on industry keep up. https://flic.kr/p/DVyyQJ

34
Gear Talk / Re: List of tools
« on: September 16, 2015, 09:03:35 pm »
https://flic.kr/p/bRpunt Here is mine feel free to use the photo.

35
Gear Talk / Re: Gearing for Touring Bike Followup
« on: July 29, 2015, 09:36:48 pm »
I have been reading bicycling magazine since 1976 and also back to 1969 in the libraries. This is not a good resource never the less they did get some things right. In the 70's professional racers used a 52 front and 14 rear. It was widely reported that pushing higher gears at a lower cadence would damage the knees. No entry level bicycle needs a gearing higher than this. Generally they come with a  12 13 on the road bikes and 11 13 on the hybrid bikes. You are insane to pedal down hills on one of these entry level bikes. If you read the fine print on the warranties they do not cover racing which means what ever their lawyers say it means. Interstates are graded at 6 percent. This means 42 mph coasting on my rig and this is something I do on a daily basis. Save your strength for the uphills. Frank Berto tested every type of gearing system. He used a 20 inch low on all his personal bikes. This was a big man who did not tour. The industry ignored this professional engineer and listened to the marketers instead. 

37
Gear Talk / Re: Gearing for Touring Bike
« on: July 11, 2015, 08:22:20 pm »
I'm using a 20 34 42 front and a 12 13 15 17 20 24 30 39 rear. This allows my normal top speed of 28 mph with an optimal cadence and a 2.4 mph low speed with an OK cadence. Below 2.4 mph it becomes problematical to maintain a straight line. At this point you get off and push. I would use a lower gear if it was feasible. I tend to spin at 90 rpm on the lesser hills. Really try to find and old Sugino Impel and use a 36 tooth on the rear. I still have tendon damage in my arms from the oil well fields 30 years ago. My knees are fine after 100000 miles because I spin higher rpms.

38
Gear Talk / Auxetic tires.
« on: May 29, 2015, 08:50:00 pm »
The main problem with bicycle tires is they stretch when inflated. This pulls the rubber apart when it is cut and allows glass to cut deeper.  There are ways to solve this problem by introducing particles into the rubber that are in compression. Gorilla glass works this way. However as usual nature has come up with something better. Auxetic materials get fatter when stretched or thinner when compressed. Use of these materials in a tire would introduce a compression force at the point of a puncture preventing further cutting. Don't hold your breath. I'm still waiting for spiralock threads for bicycles. The bicycle industry is around 100 years behind the automobile industry.

39
Gear Talk / Re: Flashlights for bike are needed
« on: May 29, 2015, 08:40:23 pm »
Rayovac sells a plastic 2 AA light with an LED bulb or you can just buy the bulb. This fits in my teeth and is very useful for fixing flats at night. I also use an Ozark Trail with portable power as a headlight. This light has a USB port that can recharge your phone. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34720 Stay away from the flashlights that take 6 AA batteries. All of them Ozark Trail Coleman etc are made by the same company. The problem with these is rechargable batteries are to fat and jam in the light. https://www.flickr.com/photos/63373992@N07/14352632803/in/photolist-7AGi1t-6Ubkz-d7xosu-o635b5-nShZGg-6uVXmK-rwqSav-mS9Dq8

40
Gear Talk / 50 tooth chain wrap.
« on: May 22, 2015, 08:39:34 pm »
Just replaced the pulleys on my really old shimano derailleur with 15 tooth ones giving a chain wrap of greater than 50 teeth. The gears are 20 34 42 front and 12 13 15 17 20 24 30 40 rear. It actually works a bit better with a 13 tooth jockey pulley. Now if only we could get some one to make after market pulleys. I would like to try a 13 17 combination. Derailleur pulleys are moment loaded which kills bearing faster than any thing else. I've had Dura Ace, XTR, Sram, Campagnolo and am not impressed with any of them.

41
Gear Talk / Re: What tires?
« on: April 02, 2015, 09:33:11 am »
I've used nearly every tire made in 110000 miles. I now use the Bell Sports brand which is made by the Cheng Shin company or the Inova brand which I think are also made by Cheng Shin. These are sold at department stores. They are foldable have a Kevlar belt and a reasonable cost. Cheng Shin also has their own brand sold in bicycle shops which tend to be a bit lighter than the department store brands. It is not possible now to buy a tire as poorly made as the Schwinn LeTour which at the time was the most common tire used on tandems. Continentals tend to rip at the side wall because the polyamide they use is more brittle than the nylon ever one else uses. These will get you home.

42
General Discussion / Re: Crash number 6.
« on: April 02, 2015, 09:03:54 am »
I keep it low key here. I have forced over 200 governments to fix violations of DOT and ADA law. These can be found on flickr by searching bicyclehazard.

43
General Discussion / Crash number 6.
« on: March 31, 2015, 07:01:37 am »
I was hit 2 days ago by a lady who hit the accelerator before she looked where she was going. I'm detecting a pattern now. This is the third crash I have been involved in that happened in the same way. I have also seen three others I was not involved in that happened the same way. This happens when a driver on a side road looks right then hits the accelerator before they look in front of them. I will be filming this when I get the chance to prove my point.  In all six cases the driver was at fault. This is what you can expect if you travel. I have done 110000 miles on tour. I have heard in other places a cyclist gets hit every 8000 miles. There are two reasons I survived these crashes. During my youth me and my friends spent time knocking each other off our unicycles. Now it's not that easy to knock me down even when I'm not expecting it. The other reason is I spend my youth in a pool hall playing video games. This is good training though foot ball or socker would work also.  I know my place in one crash the police refused to investigate even though it was a hit and run. I proved to the DMV that the man put a non existent address on his drivers license. I recently found the mans grave stone my guess is the police tried to arrest the man after they were ordered to do so by the DMV and he was shot in the arrest. I'm not saying any more about the man may he rest in peace. Of course the police are not happy with me the most danderous thing you can do is prove the police are fools not ride across country.

44
Gear Talk / Digipower U TC450 charger.
« on: March 17, 2015, 12:07:54 pm »
I've been using the Digipower U TC charger on tour now for 4 months. It will charge most camera batteries AA and AAA NiMh batteries. It looks like it will also charge N sized NiMh batteries also but I have not tried it. The 450 also has the advantage over the 400 of charging 14500 and 10440 lithium ion batteries. For those who are not familiar with these they are the same size as AA and AAA batteries. Since they are 3.7 volt they make a very good single cell pen light.  It looks like it will handle a 16340 lithium battery which is popular in laser pointers though I have not tried it.  It will charge one or two round cells of the same size and chemistry with .6 amps in each channel. Camera batteries also charge at .6 amps. There is a USB outlet rated at 1 amp. Theoretically you can't charge batteries and use the USB at the same time however it will work if you keep the combined power low. The picture shown is a USB charger drawing .36 amp. The charger is very light but there is no weather sealing so keep it in a baggy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/63373992@N07/15377240300/in/photolist-

45
Gear Talk / Re: Too tight spokes causes wheel buckling.
« on: February 06, 2015, 09:07:50 am »
It's true but I have several spokes at close to zero tension with the rest being too tight. Generally I allow this for front wheels but not for the back.

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