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Messages - DarrenBnYYC

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16
General Discussion / Re: e-bikes are motor vehicles
« on: October 30, 2018, 09:47:05 am »
Figaro - how would you propose handling the potential of 'speeding' on "regular" bike trails by riders on Class 3 (28 mph, 45 kph) pedal assist ebikes?
Exactly the same way you handle speeding by roadies on carbon fibre racing bikes. They are far worse a problem where I live than the old people on e-bikes.

17
General Discussion / Re: Need to heal faster
« on: October 17, 2018, 07:27:14 pm »
Lots of good advice above. And I'll second the suggestion to add a strong core workout to your daily routine. As I have grown older, I started to develop recurring back problems of increasing severity. It took four physiotherapists to help me find a cure, but daily core exercises and leg stretches are what helped me overcome my back problems. My last physiotherapist figured it out for me - calves and quads stretches were what he emphasized, along with core strengthening. The previous ones just gave generic advice that didn't help, so it pays to see someone really skilled.

18
General Discussion / Re: e-bikes are motor vehicles
« on: October 09, 2018, 03:47:54 pm »
However, the purist in me wants desperately to keep all Motor Vehicles where they belong on the streets with other motor vehicles and not allow any of them of them no matter what they're called in areas preserved for non-motorized vehicles. Remember, if it's got a motor, any motor, it's a Motor Vehicle!
I think a pedal assist bike with a motor that will only get you up to 20 mph is about the same as a non-motorized bike. Seriously, what's the difference? They are almost silent, they weigh no more than my non-motorized commuter bike (a long-tail cargo bike), they go the same speed as a non-motorized bike. You have to pedal them to make them move or maintain a speed.

What makes pedal-assist e-bikes so much different from regular bikes that you refuse to share bike facilities with them and, instead, makes you want to lump them with cars and other motor vehicles? I ask this as a genuine question because I have heard many people with sentiments similar to your own, but nobody has been willing to explain their point of view, other than to say it is an arbitrary distinction and they don't want to use an e-bike.

19
General Discussion / Re: e-bikes are motor vehicles
« on: October 08, 2018, 09:27:35 pm »
I agree with John, and I have no problem sharing pathways or bike lanes with pedal-assist e-bikes. Personally, I think they are the "gateway drug" to cycling, and the more people we can get on bikes, the better, for all kinds of reasons.

I have a lot of empathy for people who have let their inactivity creep up on them, often to the point where they finally recognize that they have to add some activity to their lifestyles, but are too out of shape to even pedal a bike for 30 mins. E-bikes bridge that gap, getting people out on a bike and having the confidence to eventually progress to a bike with no assistance. I know so many avid cyclists my age that have done this, and I am one of them also.

20
Routes / Re: Ride the Divide new Jasper addition?
« on: September 14, 2018, 05:07:50 pm »
I have not biked both (only the Icefields Parkway), but I have ridden stretches of the new ACA route closer to my home in Calgary and driven the rest many times - the GD extension to Jasper does not have the spectacular scenery on the Icefields Parkway, unfortunately.

If you had the time, I would consider starting in Banff or Lake Louise and cycling the Icefields Parkway before starting the GDMBR. You would not be disappointed.

21
General Discussion / Re: GDMBR time of year- how late can you go?
« on: September 10, 2018, 08:09:55 pm »
In some years you might get lucky and make it through before the snow flies, but it is touch and go from mid-September onwards just to get through the Canadian portion. In fact, here in Calgary, they are calling for a chance of snow this week and there is a significant amount forecasted for Banff. But in some years, it is still in the high 20s (Celsius) this time of year). Pretty risky leaving that late.

22
Gear Talk / Re: Waterproofing Tent Advice-Suggestions
« on: September 10, 2018, 11:20:02 am »
You may need to simply re-seal the seams of the tent. You can buy commercial sealer for this purpose, but I have always found it to be too thick to use effectively.

Provided your fly is nice and clean, mix pure silicone (e.g., GE Silicone II 100% silicone sealant) with odorless mineral spirits in a ratio of 1:4, and stir it for a very long time until the silicone is completely dissolved (I use a power drill and an L-shaped tent peg). Then use a small paint brush to work the liquid into all the seams of the tent.

I have also had success applying a light coat of the thinned silicone to an entire fly, a nylon (non-waterproof) jacket, and a set of leaky nylon rain pants to make them all 100% waterproof. But I would start with the seams before you try the whole fly.

As John mentions above, there spray-on waterproofing coatings that will help the water repellancy of the fly - I would seam seal and then try one of those sprays first. Just be sure the fly is very clean (or the coating won't stick) and that you use a spray that is compatible with nylon material. I am sure you will get many more years of life out of your tent.

23
Tricky problem, as most roof mount racks have a stabilizer arm to secure the front or rear tire to keep the bike upright, and you can't swing those over the tire with a rack mounted.

I have seen a few roof racks that have a stabilizer arm that attaches to the down tube to keep the bike upright.

I haven't used this particular rack, so I am not endorsing it, but this is an example of what I mean: https://www.swagman.net/product/upright-roof-rack/.

24
General Discussion / Re: Pedals Recommendation
« on: July 04, 2018, 08:16:07 pm »
Have a look at Shimano PD A530.   These have a flat on one side and a clip on the other.   I've used these for touring and every day use for some years now and like them a lot because of their versatility.  Clipped in they're fine and if you want to ride in shoes without cleats you can do so as well.
Have you found the flats on those pedals to be ridiculously slick when wet? I have a set, too, and gave up on them because I found one side to be useless in mud, rain, or snow. I like the Shimano M324 combination pedals much better. Wellgo make something similar, also.

These days, though, I have foregone clipless pedals entirely for touring or commuting. After moving back to comfy flat pedals and comfy shoes, I have just found no tangible benefits to being clipped in.

25
Food Talk / Re: Food Management - Bears
« on: April 28, 2018, 11:16:20 pm »
Some wise, basic advice here:
http://www.wildsmart.ca/resources/living-with-wildlife/bikes-berries-and-bears.htm

You need to have bearspray within reach on the bike. I have had some close calls, although never needed the bearspray, but I learned you have no time to dig it out of a bag when you may need it.

Making lots of noise before bends on the trail or when you get into tight vegetation with reduced visibility is really important, especially if you are biking into a headwind and/or moving at a good clip. Bear bells or bicycle bells are NOT effective - loud shouting and an air horn work best, but don't carry as far as some expect. Best to slow down in tight spots and travel with a group in areas of known bear activity if possible.

To put it all in perspective, however, I am cautious in bear country because of the danger, but not as cautious as I am when my route takes me on busy roads that I must share with cars - that's a much bigger danger, and motorists are less predictable than the bears. So if you are brave enough to bike in traffic, then you should have no problem sharing the backcountry with the bears.

And here's an interesting read, albeit a bit sensationalized, but with some good advice mostly:
https://www.outsideonline.com/2168661/why-do-mountain-bikers-keep-running-bears-trail

26
Food Talk / Re: Food Management - Bears
« on: April 28, 2018, 09:19:06 pm »
Good advice above. But your greatest danger with bears won't be having them come into your camp at night looking for food. It will be surprising them on the trail. Have you read much or put much thought into how you will mitigate that threat?

27
Gear Talk / Re: Garmin Etrex Mount
« on: April 28, 2018, 09:15:35 pm »
I have owned multiple eTrex units over the years, and I have never had the GPS pop off. You just have to be religious about snapping it in the whole way - sometimes it can be difficult. But once in place, I honestly don't see how it could come off unless the mount was really loose to begin with or it broke.

As a precaution, you can always clip your GPS lanyard to your bars. I have never bothered, but it would be easy to do and would prevent losing the unit entirely.

28
Gear Talk / Re: Lightweight, tough bike lock
« on: March 19, 2018, 08:28:08 am »
Our MEC chain up in Canada (analog to REI) collected some bad reviews on these locks and stopped selling them:
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5056-074/Cinch-Lock#reviews

29
Gear Talk / Re: Cooking set up while on tour?
« on: March 11, 2018, 11:48:55 pm »
Of course, it is also possible to tour outside of the continental USA, in which case Ty's remarks become very relevant (e.g., Alaska, northern Canada, most of the rest of the world that isn't developed).

30
Gear Talk / Re: AegisMax UL Sleeping Bag thoughts
« on: March 09, 2018, 06:54:25 pm »

Remember a true "air mattress", i.e. just an inflatable plastic shell, provides nearly no insulation under your sleeping bag.  I recommend a foam filled air mattress like the Thermarest  or one of it's knockoffs.  They can be reasonably light and roll up small but do provide some insulation.  Non-inflatable foam sleeping pads can be light and do insulate well but aren't the first choice for comfort.
Actually, that's not quite true. Some air mattresses also have a high R-value. They are pricey, but Thermarest, for example, makes their NeoAir XTherm insulated air mattress (R 5.6). But it is still super lightweight and packs down to nothing.

But I agree that, generally, you have to pay attention to air mattresses when it comes to ground insulation.
A regular air mattress that is just a hollow shell has a very poor R-value.  Any air mattress with a useful R-value has some sort of foam filling.
Not true. The NeoAir XTherm is an inflatable mattress (no foam) with an R-value of 5.6, which is higher than closed-cell foam pads. I own one and have used it extensively, including sub-zero temps in the Canadian Rockies in spring and fall, and my first-hand experience has confirmed that these work as advertised.

Here is a link: https://www.thermarest.com/mattresses/neoair-xtherm-1
More warmth per gram than any other air mattress in the world.

Exped and other companies also make down-filled air mattresses. You do not need a foam mattress for warmth.

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