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Messages - JDFlood

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16
General Discussion / Re: Touring on carbon
« on: July 21, 2014, 03:28:22 pm »
I don't see a reason not to open an old thread.

In the early days of Carbon bikes, there was a ver real problem with terminations and joints. They would shake apart over time. So, they were really expensive and fairly fragile. Therefore, the market had to be large an price insensitive... hence racing. I am sure the technology has matured a lot. So, perhaps a carbon full touring bike will be in the cards. I still havn't seen a full fledged one. But this thread has gotten me thinking, perhaps it is a reason to get another touring bike. That would make 9  bikes... I'm not sure my partner would go for it. I told her I really had quit at 8.

17
To me this sounds like the perfect formula for credit card touring. I don't understand your reluctance to use motels. That way you have a desk and quiet for working. If you travel a lot Adventure Cycling routes, the motels get really inexpensive. Like across the Northern Route I hit a long string of $30 per night motels. Instead of a tent and cooking gear, you bring a decent sized laptop. mouse and battery backup. Sound perfect.

18
Gear Talk / Re: Packing a DSLR?
« on: July 18, 2014, 09:47:04 am »
Being a pro I think you would appreciate the Fuji X-2 or better yet the new weatherized one. I normally shoot a Nikon D800. The sensor on this camera is simply astonishing for a APS-C, wayyyy better than any smaller sensor end camera. The 35mm f1.4 is incredibly sharp, and I keep coming away with better close ups with the 90mm macro than my Nikon and the 105mm. I just throw in the handlebar bag. If I want to get into photography, I can. The sensor / fast lens is great in the pacific NW where it is dark much of the year. I use for backpacking and some hiking. Way better than my Leica APS-c.

19
General Discussion / Re: Big Bend Loop II, Van - Nov 2-10, 2014
« on: July 17, 2014, 07:42:25 pm »
If you've competed in double centuries... it'll be a relaxing cake walk.

20
General Discussion / Re: importance of componentry
« on: July 11, 2014, 05:32:10 pm »
Lucky when I got mine then, it doesn't get any better. There is a huge performance difference between my Ultegra and Dura Ace triple components.

21
General Discussion / Re: importance of componentry
« on: July 11, 2014, 01:05:15 pm »
I have four touring / commuter bikes and have put tens of thousands of miles on them. Three have Dura Ace one has Ultegra... I have a couple other bikes with Dura Ace also. Never had a failure or a gum problem with any kind on of them. All this equipment is incredibly reliable. Also, instead of moving your hands to the unstable end of the bars away from the brakes to shift is, in my opinion dangerous. Not to mention more difficult to shift than STI.  The performance of Dura Ace is exceptional, even when compared to Ultegra. The idea you get bar end shifter because they are more reliable is silly. . If on the incredibly remote chance that something breaks on tour... there is Fed Ex virtually anywhere in North America, Europe and much of Asia. Perhaps if you are touring in sub saharan Africa, or Siberia in the winter. I can shift with my pinky with Dura Ace. Unless you are really constrained by money, I would get nothing else. If constrained, I would get the highest level you can afford. I have found you get what you pay for with Shimano.

22
Gear Talk / Re: From the road: least used gear, most appreciated gear
« on: July 03, 2014, 07:07:25 pm »
I actually have a Pak-Lite, it is a little cap you put on a rectangular 9v battery... it is miniscule and does 600 hours on low... amazing functionality. I think it may be the ultimate in light and functional. Although I imagine it is a litttle heavier than the elite. but this is all battery. But for bicycling I don't get quit as fanatical as I do with backpacking.


http://www.9voltlight.com/


but I can't find it... it may be too small for me.

23
Gear Talk / Re: From the road: least used gear, most appreciated gear
« on: July 03, 2014, 04:47:36 pm »
I have found the headlight invaluable. For 3oz, you can get one that is USB rechargable, several different beams, flashing, red, and can use on helmet, in tent, around camp. I like the USB, because the batteries are lighter, and compatible with a USB power source (battery) that I can use on iPhone, iPad mini and flashlight. I like the Black Diamond ReVolt (great choice in names, not).

24
General Discussion / Re: general advice on making a tour happen
« on: July 03, 2014, 01:12:10 pm »
Wow, JD, I think I'd carefully inspect your frame for cracks. At any rate, your old 520 is quite different than a 520 of today.

No cracks, this happened when new. Although, they have changed the geometry since I bought the bike, maybe they beefed it up. But I can make it happen on any of my bikes by overloading... ok, I have not been able to make it happen on my Independent Fabrication's Independent (Fully Loaded Touring bike), but I am sure with a lot of bricks I could. As I say, this is way more common than people think.

25
General Discussion / Re: general advice on making a tour happen
« on: July 03, 2014, 01:07:41 pm »
Jobst Brandt has this to say about shimmy: "Bicycle shimmy is the lateral oscillation of the head tube about the road contact point of the front wheel and depends largely on frame geometry and the elasticity of the top and down tubes. It is driven by gyroscopic forces of the front wheel, making it largely speed dependent. It cannot be fixed by adjustments because it is inherent to the geometry and elasticity of the bicycle frame. The longer the frame and the higher the saddle, the greater the tendency to shimmy, other things being equal. Weight distribution also has no effect on shimmy although where that weight contacts the frame does. Bicycle shimmy is unchanged when riding no-hands, whether leaning forward or backward." Complete article at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html.
I watched a friend almost go down two days ago during a shimmy at 35 mph. He stopped it by grabbing the top tube with both knees. Like JDF he was a tall guy with a big bike (steel).


EXACTLY!

26
Hurray!

27


I start with two new tires and ride them until the rear is showing casing under the tread.   I replace the rear and keep the front.  When the second rear wears out, I then replace both.

This is what I do also. I do as little tire changing as possible.

28
Gear Talk / Re: Saddle Suggestion other than Brooks
« on: July 02, 2014, 08:08:41 pm »
I had about six bikes and eight really expensive saddles, mostly Selle, and well over $100 per. But when I got to around 35 or 40 miles or more, my butt would really hurt. I tried split saddles, gel saddles, etc. Finally, got a Brooks. End of problem. For me they are comfortable from the first use, although granted they are much stiffer than later. Folks around worked loved me, just about everyone that rode a bike got a free $150 saddle from me. I have a titanium rail sparrow ... or swift or whatevery it is called for my 17lb titanium bike and B-17s on several, and a couple other models. But I'm sure never going back to anything else.

29
That is what I do. I would imagine most folks do. I think the weight on the front versus back is something like 40/60...hence the back wears much faster than the front.

30
Gear Talk / Re: Burley Nomad Trailer
« on: July 02, 2014, 07:29:56 pm »
All of what you say is true. I got one and started on a trip. But it made me feel like a hobo, I really didn't like it. I also got wishboned a couple times. I prefer being one with the bike. Just my preference. I took it back and have been dedicated to panniers ever since.

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