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Messages - walks.in2.trees

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61
Gear Talk / Re: Solar Charger
« on: January 06, 2017, 09:32:21 pm »
I purchased a Voltaic Systems "Fuse 6W" 6.0W Portable Solar Tablet Charger about a year ago in preparation for a Northern Tier trip this year.  I strap it on the top of the gear on my rear rack and it has a full charge in a couple of hours.  It seem fairly rugged and I've had no issue with it.   I use it with an Android device but the description says it's compatible with iPhone and iPad.
Comparing the specs on both systems, the Venture 30 has 7800 mah compared to the Fuse's 4000 mah (so it makes sense that the charge time would be about half) the panels compare at Nomad7 (7w) Fuse (6W) so the systems are roughly the same except that the Venture 30 has greater capacity and it's separate from the panels, so you can use it without the panels. since both systems are similarly priced, that puts the Goal Zero as a better buy, based solely on the numbers.

You can also get bigger panels from Goal Zero. there's a 15W, and a 20W that are compatible with the Venture30, and you can link multiple panels together (not sure if that's practical on a bike, but maybe, if you're taking a rest day on a tour) They also have larger batteries.  Also you can buy all the components separately from them too, and I recommend going for more if you can afford it and you'll be semi-counting on it. go right for a sherpa50 with a Nomad 20... it's pretty pricey though.  you can link multiple Nomad7 together, but you're still limited by the 7 watts max which is OK for charging a smartphone and the Venture 30 together, but not also, a light, a BT headset all at once

The Fuse you can get an additional external battery for as well
Also, now that I examined some of their other options it looks like they have some other offerings that might be worth looking at that have separate batteries although it doesn't look like the panels are hinged, which could be less efficient on a bike (the nomad 7's are 3+ hinged panels, a I can have one on top, one facing left, one right, to better ensure that at least one or two of them is facing the sun as I ride)

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62
Gear Talk / Re: Solar Charger
« on: January 06, 2017, 08:29:26 pm »
IDK I depends on your device and the battery of the solar charger.  I've used two different systems so far, and so far the Goal Zero system is the better of the two... but I haven't tried the Voltaic Systems Fuse 6W.   The Goal Zero Nomad with a Venture 30 battery would charge the itself and also was able to keep up with my old Samsung Galaxy 2s while I used MapMyRide as long as the screen was off. With the screen ON it couldn't keep up. The biggest thing I noticed is that if you don't have full sun, it drastically increases the time it takes to charge... so it's not really reliable in that sense that you could count on being able to recharge after fully draining your iPhone battery with a full day of music listening, and if you're planning on touring like this and want to also use your iPhone for communication and GPS, I would put some limit on your usage to ensure you have enough juice left to still do that...

I tried my hand at a review of it here
https://youtu.be/hRtrUYbVZwk

Link to their website (the solar kits portion) here
http://www.goalzero.com/solar-kits

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63
General Discussion / Re: ?How easy are SPD pedals to get use too?
« on: January 05, 2017, 05:03:31 pm »
The experience of stopping at a light and being unable to take your feet of the pedals is not to be missed.
Having said that, I can't/wont ride without them these days.
i bought a pair of Shimano SPD boots for winter and found out the hard way that there are two kinds of clips. For some reason the place I bought the boots at installed the kind that unclip when you pull up. When I got out of the saddle for a short hill one foot would come out of the clip. I thought it was something wrong with the pedal, eventually I learned it was the thing on the boot that was wrong. I changed that and now they are perfect.
TIP make sure you grease the screws that go into the shoe sole - I changed out some worn cleats and had to grind the screw heads off.
That's why, I unclip the one I plan to steady myself with in advance, and leave the other one clipped in, and if there's only a short distance between lights, I just keep that one foot unclipped for the duration rather than mess around with clipping and unclipping.
No need for the condescension. it hasn't happened to me but I did meet someone stuck at the side of the road who said he had that very problem. Perhaps I should have told him he was dreaming? I can see how ONE bolt can come loose and well fall out while the other one remains tight then the other one starts to work loose...
I don't doubt that there are riders who are unperceptive (condescending?) enough not to notice a loose cleat until it falls off entirely and you are correct the thread engagement depth is quite small.  However, assuming one bolt falls out first I would think that disengaging from that side would be difficult enough to notice.   The now one-bolt cleat would tend to rotate in the shoe sole rather than unclip unless the pedal's retention spring is set very loose.
That was the guys problem. He couldn't unclip because the cleat rotated. How he got out in the first place beats me, perhaps he'd fallen off and untied his shoe, he was stood at the side of the road when I met him.
I agree, that the condescending remarks are unnecessary... Like most forums, certain folks have a tendency towards it.

That said, I've had my cleats loosen up, but I did notice my feet swimming on the pedals worse and worse until I checked them and tightened them. Some people aren't as perceptive though, and don't notice the signs of something drifting slowly out of spec, but I'm sure they will now!

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64
Gear Talk / Re: Touring with hammocks: any other Pros & cons?
« on: January 01, 2017, 05:16:50 pm »
Big hammock fan here, I own 3. I did the southern tier last Feb and was concerned about the desert sections, so I reluctantly left my hammock home. I think if I left my UQ behind and used a pad I could have rigged the hammock like a bivy and used some kind of ground cloth to protect the fabric. I will tell you this I will never again leave my hammock at home ,I will find a solution. HYOH enjoy Jim
Since most of the objections here seem to be related to finding places to hang:

Over on HammockForums there's someone that makes something she calls "No-Ground Poles"

It's a work in progress that began as a DIY project based on a similar project in the UK called the Handy Hammock stand.

The difference between the No Ground Poles and the Handy Hammock is that the No Ground Poles convert into trecking poles, whereas the Handy Hammock is a one purpose item. On the bike, being able to convert to trecking poles isn't a huge benefit, but there is the benefit of using them for an outside pole mod, or to use them in place of trecking poles to set up your tarp in "porch mode" when you don't need them to support the hammock.

I bought a pair of No Ground Poles knowing that it's a work in progress, and knowing that she'll upgrade them (with limitations) as she makes improvements to her design.

She's on the third iteration of the design, and while they look and function great, there's definitely improvements that need to be made, though nothing so far that relates to safety while hanging from them.

For instance, the setup instructions need to be better. I had to resort to the YouTube videos, and I'm usually able to figure things out without instructions at all.

It's made of steel tubing. Obviously, titanium would reduce the weight, but increase the cost.

I've communicated most of my issues so far to her, and she's very good about getting back to me.
I absolutely love hammocks (for all the many 'pro' reasons you have cited) and, yet, have never been able to find enough places to tie one up at the end of the tour day .... I just gave up on the idea .... cause for me it, thereby, proved too limiting, sadly.

I go back and forth between my hammock and tent. I love the hammock very much, and nothing matches the sleep I get in a hammock, especially in the backcountry. And frankly, it is hard to sleep on the ground again after getting used to a hammock (and I have tried all kinds of sleeping pads).

But there are some reasons why the tent, bag, and sleeping pad combination are better:
- up here in Canada, particularly in the Rockies or the interior of British Columbia where I tend to visit most, you really need an underquilt or insulated undercover with a hammock to stay comfortable (that adds additional weight and bulk that sometimes isn't considered in comparisons of tent vs. hammock)
- my Hennessy Ultralite Asym Backpacker hammock and the undercover insulation system together is a lot bulkier and a wee bit heavier than my Big Agnes Seedhouse SL2 tent
- you get a lot more privacy in a tent
- I have had campground staff give me a hard time about hanging a hammock (they thought I would hurt the trees, despite my 2" tree webbing straps)
- even in the forest, sometimes it is actually easier to find a nice flat, level piece of ground than two trees spaced just the right distance apart to hang the hammock without a bunch of branches getting in the way, especially if you want a scenic view from inside

To balance, here are some additional reasons I like the hammock over the tent, which I don't think were mentioned above:
- hammocks make wonderful chairs to lounge in -- it is such a luxury at the end of a long day
- my large hex tarp has plenty of room underneath to protect my bike and gear overnight
- my hammock tarp is on a separate ridgeline so that I can break it out quickly en route (e.g., need quick shelter from a boomer)
- setup and tear-down is much simpler and quicker with the hammock system that my tent, especially in the rain

So I tend to choose my sleep system based on where I will be going (lots of trees to hang a hammock?) and/or whether I will be likely to staying in a lot of campgrounds.

Forgot: can be rigged high enough to stand under, get dressed, or remove wet gear... I'll never go back to a minimalist tarp...I remember trying to stay dry while taking off my rain gear with only enough room under the tarp to stay dry while actually in it. Try that with a bivy.

I too found the same with hammocks.

The size and their relative light weight convinced me before leaving (TransAm) that all would be good.  In truth, not so much.  I was creative (as i could be) with setting it up; bridged between piknik tables (basically laying on the ground) tied to poles @ parks, etc, etc.  In the end, it was far more trouble than any potential weight savings.

I'm sold on using either a bivy sac or a tent only.

Big hammock fan here too. Did the western half of the Trans-Am with one last summer and concluded that in the plains states a tent would be the way to go. With a little creativity I was able to find methods to hang without trees, that was not the problem. The problem is if it looks like it might rain, you need the tarp up, and with a tarp that's above the ground, it acts like a big sail. 30+ MPH winds are a major PITA with a hammock tarp. That being said, it would be hard to go back to the ground after the comfort of my W.B. Blackbird.

 Disclaimer: I'm old. When I was young I could sleep on a pile of rocks and snooze like a baby.

Yes, last March I had to get creative in the heavy winds. I've found two ways:

First, if there's conveniently located existing brush or saplings, you can do a single wrap around that then stake out the remaining length of the guyline horizontally. The action of the tarp will be taken by the sapling, not your stake, and the stake is only keeping the line taught, while the sapling serves as the actual anchor. Alternatively, you could tie off directly to the sapling, but this is less convenient.

The second method involves a larks-head around the top of a trecking pole or pole cut on location as the intermediate connection...A fulcrum. The overall effect is that the action from the tarp through the guyline presses down against ground through the trecking pole, instead of yanking directly on the stake which works it out of the ground. For this method to work, you have to set it up specifically for the situation for greatest effect.

In my case, one side of my tarp was against a hill, but the other side was not. The wind of course was on the side next to the hill and it was lifting the tarp and yanking the stakes out one at a time, or with the strongest gusts, all of the stakes on that side at once. Because of the hill, I couldn't use the bottom tieout loops for this, so I larks-headed the lines from both side-pulls to one trecking pole, fully extended and placed centered, then staked the ends out to form an X, using the stakes to pull on the top of the trecking pole, to tension the tarp via the side-pulls. Since it was mostly the action of the tarp working them out of the ground, this configuration stopped this action, and they didn't work loose anymore.

I think that the actual weight difference between a hammock setup or a solo tent comes out to be a wash.

So choose a hammock because that is what you want to do, and accept that sometimes you will have to make a bivy out of your hammock.

↑ This is my thought as well. ↑

Most of the comparisons that I've seen between the two systems, do so incorrectly

They usually mention the poorer performance of a Pad when used with a hammock as opposed to a superior performance of a Pad on on the ground, then include the weight of an Underquilt as additional weight to the hammock system, but leave out the extra weight of a pad as a factor when talking about sleeping on the ground. Nobody ever compares the bulk of a packed pad to the bulk of a packed Underquilt at all that I remember nor does a gram-per-gram insulative performance comparison between the two, rather than as an alternative to using a pad as it should be.

What hammock/gear do you other folks use? Snake-Skins? Dutchware bling? Suspension type? Mods?

Packing technique/preferences? Pack-weight?

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65
Just an update to let those who left useful comments know that I appreciate the input

I've been riding it for a few weeks now, snow and ice, on road and off. It definitely is an improvement for the off-road portions of my daily grind.

I haven't tried and long distance road adventures with it yet. I do notice the rolling resistance on pavement of the tires it came with, but I expected that.

I like the disc brakes better than I thought I would, though adjusting them is a little more picky than with rim brakes

Still have to get fenders that fit (recommendations?) I'll probably hit up Nashbar again for that

To get the racks to clear the brakes, I ended up buying longer 5mm mounting bolts from Lowes and using nuts as spacers. For the front top rack I used the giant zip-ties from the electrical department at Home Depot

I have a feeling that I'll end up making a cubenfiber frame bag

Here is the Dawn Treader³:


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66
I've been curious about this as well. At the very least, even if you don't take less stuff, you spread the load over the whole frame, and you can organize it so that you can get at me things without in one who's bag to get at something at the bottom.

One concern I do have is that it turns the bike into more of a sail in a cross-wind

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67
General Discussion / Re: What is the best to repair Ortlieb Bags???
« on: December 17, 2016, 05:53:05 pm »
try some CubenFiber tape From Dutch. there's two versions, adhesive on one-side, and adhesive on two sides.  Normally it's used for assembling/patching CubenFiber gear, but I've heard the adhesive is really good and works to patch other materials as well he also carries CubenFiber as well as ultralight hardware for securing and camping applications

If you don't know, CubenFiber is superstrong lightweight material typically used for ultralight camping applications such as backpacks, tarps, and rain gear. it's also very pricey, but the tape won't nearly set you back the way a full-size tarp would.

http://www.dutchwaregear.com/cuben-fiber-tape.html

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68
Gear Talk / Re: Recommendation for front light?
« on: December 11, 2016, 07:57:29 pm »
Hmm while checking the features of the Serfas mentioned above, I found this website
https://www.bikelightdatabase.com

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69
General Discussion / Buffalo to Albany NY
« on: December 09, 2016, 07:47:39 pm »
Some friends of mine rode and filmed this last year. Thought others might like to see... enjoy!
https://youtu.be/s3WjVk6pam8

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70
General Discussion / Re: ?How easy are SPD pedals to get use too?
« on: December 09, 2016, 04:21:37 pm »
I would practice like this:
Find something you can balance the bike with, so you aren't in motion... You can't really clip-in unless you put your full weight on it. The important part is knowing the motion you need to do to release from it.
It's a twisting motion, twist your heel away from your frame. After you do it with each foot successfully while stationary, then try riding around an empty lot. 

Always use your dominant foot when you stop. As you prepare to stop, stand on your non-dominant foot and unclip your dominant foot. Make sure your balance favors a landing on that foot, not the opposite side. Always using the same foot helps ensure this.

Always give yourself time to do this. You don't want to go down at a traffic light. As pointed out above, it's when you get surprised that your most likely to forget to unclip.
I've fallen a bunch of times, exactly because of that. Fortunately, it's usually when you're trying to stop anyway, so you probably won't get hurt.

Don't unclip your other foot until you stop, especially going from traffic light to traffic light... Use the still-clipped-in foot to pull the pedal up to a good take off position. If the distance to the next stop is short, don't bother clipping it back in.

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71
Routes / Re: New York State Bike Route 5 versus Erie Canalway Trail
« on: December 05, 2016, 08:16:06 pm »
Thanks for your input.  I'm looking forward to what other's have to say.

It looks like following the Erie Canalway from Schnectady to Lockport NY is 296 miles.  Following NY Bike Route 5 is 296.  Not much difference, and it has a few good climbs.  Thanks for your input, Vertiganer.

Canalligators, what guide book are you referring to?   I'll be checking out your link to CrazyGuyOnABike shortly.
About using the path rather than the road for the stretch from Albany to Schenectady... The path is much nicer, and it's paved, if a bit wrinkled in places from tree roots.

On the other hand RTE 5 is a straight shot, and fairly easy going once you've climbed the hill out of downtown Albany if you'd rather shorten the travel time. Going through Schenectady early in the AM (4-5) there isn't much traffic at all, but it starts picking up around 6ish.

On the path, once you get into Schenectady where it takes to the streets, there's signage marking the route, but you really have to watch for them.




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72
General Discussion / Re: best sleeping bag for bike packing?
« on: November 28, 2016, 11:46:11 pm »
Wilderness Logics had some good prices on top quilts. They have cheaper ones than this, but this is a -18°C, 900fp goose down quilt!!
http://wildernesslogics.com/TOP-QUILT-THE-ZERO-ZQ.htm

UGQ also makes great gear, but it's $100 more than you want to spend
http://undergroundquilts.com/renegade/default.html
I have the 0°F version of this, overstuffed by an extra 5oz, toasty warm

If you're not used to quilts, many backpackers use them (rather than a sleeping bag) with a thermal pad to save weight and money, the thought being that your weight compresses the insulation to uselessness anyway, so why carry (or pay for) ineffective insulation? I mention this, because the width you choose should be enough to just wrap around each arm and tuck under you to stop drafts

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73
General Discussion / Re: Riding with golf clubs
« on: November 28, 2016, 03:21:49 pm »
The Burley Travoy trailer seems like it's almost custom-made for golf bags. You could even unhook it and use it on the golf course!

https://burley.com/product/travoy/
Looks awkward, but you're right it looks perfectly made for a backpack or golf bag.
Anybody here try one?

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74
Gear Talk / Re: Recommendation for front light?
« on: November 28, 2016, 03:11:32 pm »


Only thing for me is that it charges through a USB cable. I don't take any electronics with USB ports so I would never take it on tour unless there is some sort of adaptor I can get that will allow me to charge it through a regular outlet.

Last time I was in Walgreen's there was a bucket of AC-USB adapters near the front counter for $5.

Generally those are cheap junk though... The ones you get at a Verizon/Sprint store will hold up much better, though more expensive. 

What happens with those cheap ones is they overheat and de-solder themselves. I had one that lasted a long time but that was because I realized that the circuit board was mounted on one side, so if I plugged it in with the circuit board to the bottom, the heat would rise away from the board. This only helped so much though.

It's only by accident that I found out the ones at Verizon were actually better. My tablet can't use those cheap ones, they don't have the capacity for quick-charge devices, so I went to Verizon to see if they had any of the power bricks intended for it (I bought it there) she said "I don't, but I have these" and when I compare the specs, I saw that their aftermarket dual USB was rated for over triple the output of my original was.

Now, its only been a few weeks, and I could find out that heat de-solders this one as well after heavy use, but power-wise it definitely is performing, charging my tablet and my Venture30 simultaneously, and it doesn't feel hot to the touch like the other ones always did.

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75
Gear Talk / Re: Recommendation for front light?
« on: November 28, 2016, 02:09:42 pm »
I'm with John on this one.  Bright clothes -- yellow, blaze orange, high-vis green, or a bright red -- are going to be noticed well before a puny light.  (And be-seen lights are generally pretty puny!)

The exceptions might include riding in fog, rain, or heavy overcast.  Even there, bright clothes beat a be-seen light in my experience.

Note that you need to beware of confirmation bias if you're judging how soon other drivers can see you.  (When you decide to test out flashing lights, you'll weight drivers slowing down much more than drivers that don't.)  It's much better to note how soon you see other riders under those adverse conditions.  My experience is that bright clothing and/or panniers beat lights during daytime, period.  Often I'll see the bright clothes two or three times further than even the best flashing lights.
Not true, I've been saved plenty of times by my light, but mostly because it's mounted on my helmet and I can shine it back and forth directly over the drivers face.

At night you can't really make eye contact, and if they're entering the street you're on from a side street, their headlights don't pick up your reflectors or bright clothing colors until it's too late, but if you make a point of shining a light at them, the odds are much better that they'll notice.

I know this because they start to go but stop when the beam of light hits them. A blinking rear light does draw attention, and so does the reflective safety vest... The difference is that drivers have come to associate that blinking red tail light with cyclists, whereas there's all kinds of reflective things along the road. The blinky light also is visible whether or not a car's headlights are shining on you or not, whereas a reflector DEPENDS on being shined on by the headlights.

Even so, the blinky lights I've gotten seen to always break or disappear and and so do rear mounted and pedal reflectors. So I count on my reflective safety vest and the headlamp the most. I figure, from the rear, as long as I'm where I'm supposed to be, and the driver of the rear-approaching vehicle is paying attention, I won't get hit. If they AREN'T paying attention and drift onto the shoulder, I'm toast anyway, and having had a light won't have helped prevent that at all. From this perspective, I concentrate primarily on the main source of danger that I can prevent, which is cars entering the roadway from the side.

As pointed out, for any of this to work at all, the driver has to be paying attention.
I can't tell you how many times, even with my bright safety vest during the day, I've almost been hit because even though they were looking, and I thought I made direct eye contact, they still didn't SEE me.

I think, primarily, it's because they're looking for cars, not bikes, so their brain skips over a bike. Especially somewhere or at a time of day, where bikes aren't commonly seen, like a busy traffic circle.

Light or not, I ALWAYS err on the side of them NOT seeing me... Slow down to see what they do, prepared to brake or go behind them if they go, or, I time when I pass the intersection to coincide with when a car does, counting on the fact that they will see the car, even if they don't see me.

Safety aside, there's plenty of uses for a light on a tour. I also carry a little keychain light, but its not very bright if I need a light for anything serious

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