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Messages - waynemyer

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226
Gear Talk / Re: 26 vs. 29 inch wheels if towing a trailer
« on: May 19, 2010, 10:29:40 am »
Make sure that you have the longer BOB fork to accommodate the larger wheel.  As far as the wheels being up to the task, bring them in to a shop that knows about touring bikes and tell them what you're going to be doing.  Have them tension, true, and stress-relieve your wheels.  You should be good to go.

227
Pics of what, a NWT?  If that is what you're after, here is my NWT: http://picasaweb.google.com/wayenmyer/BikeFridayNWT/.

228
General Discussion / Re: Accomodation in Portland
« on: May 18, 2010, 04:54:54 pm »
Travel Lodge on 82nd was an okay place, especially if you want a pool.  The owner gets a little sensitive about bicycles in the room, but I explained that my bike was my only means of transportation.  He finally relented.

And Cameo's is definitely one of the best, quirkiest breakfasts in PDX.

I live in Portland and would be happy to host you as your sort out for departure.  You would have your own room, plus a locked, attached garage in which to store and work on your bikes.  I have workstands and just about every tool you could need.  I am on warmshowers.org or you can contact me directly (waynemyer at gmail dot com).

229
The trailer is definitely up to the task.  The suitcase is your garden variety hardsided Samsonite.  Nearly bulletproof, and able to carry just about anything you can strap to it.  The trailer frame itself can take either 55 pound gross or 100 pound gross, depending on which model you get.  For crossing Australia, I am guessing you'll need the heavier trailer.

One of the slick things about the NWT is that they have an integral trailer hitch.  This is amazingly convenient over other trailer hitch designs.

I have only good things to say about my BF.  If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask.

230
Gear Talk / Re: Any ideas for shaving weight off a Bike Friday NWT?
« on: May 13, 2010, 06:13:40 pm »
Ah, that makes it all clearer now!   :)

My NWT had all Ultegra and later Chris King hubs laced to Sun rims.  The lightweight fixed steerer mast will shave some mass, but the tradeoff is a lack of adjustment.  My BF trailer frame, case, and NWT, plus pedals, shoes, and tools came in at 49 pounds.

Even if you can get your NWT down to 22 pounds, that is still a lot of mass to sling on your shoulder.

I also used Nokon cabling on my NWT.  It only saves a couple grams, but the advantages are that the cabling behaves much better in the suitcase and the rear brake works better despite the tortuous cable routing around the bottom bracket.

If you have the money, give BF a call.  They have carbon fiber and titanium parts and masts in order to get your steed svelte.

231
Gear Talk / Re: Any ideas for shaving weight off a Bike Friday NWT?
« on: May 13, 2010, 11:05:28 am »
Is  your NWT really that heavy?  I had a NWT; while I never weighed it, I could climb better and faster than with my Cannondale R1000.

If you're really counting grams, you're probably riding the wrong bike.  That said, I might start with wheels and even then, there's not a lot to take off of a NWT.

Bogiesan's suggestion of engine weight reduction is spot on.  Easier, cheaper, and much more drastic.  I switched to low-carb two weeks ago, dropped 13 pounds, and can do the same climbs much faster now.  Cheapest bicycle upgrade ever!  ;D

232
Probably the 500.

233
I did a rundown test on my Etrex Vista HCx using Rayovac Hybrid NiMH batteries.  Just a touch over 24 hours of continuous runtime. 

234
Gear Talk / Re: Comparing Kona Sutra and the Surly LHT
« on: May 10, 2010, 02:40:13 pm »
Shouldn't that say, "then discs might not be the right choice"?  My reading on disc brakes suggests the pads don't last anywhere near as long as rim-brake pads.  Many on the tandem forum said their disc-brake pads only lasted a thousand miles.  Even on our tandem with a gross weight of 350 pounds, the mini-V rim brakes are able to lock up even the front tire, wet or dry, with a single finger on the lever, and the pads look like they will last 20,000 miles.
You and I have explicitly already had this discussion.  Pad selection is a close second in importance to matching the mechanical advantage of the lever to the caliper system.  On a tandem, I would be surprised to see 500 miles on a set of organic disc pads.  I was getting less than 1000 in foul weather.  Sintered metallic or ceramic, on the other hand, I finally replaced a set of disc pads simply because pads were on sale.  I have now lost track of the mileage, but it was well over 15,000 miles.

The basic truth here is: every braking system has its advantages and disadvantages. Most systems, in my experience, are roughly equal. The individual needs of the rider should determine the choice of system.

235
Gear Talk / Re: Kickstands?
« on: May 10, 2010, 02:29:37 pm »
It was indeed the FlickStand.

In lieu of a FlickStand, I use a strap of heavy velcro and secure my front wheel.  This lets me reliably lean the bike just about anywhere, even if there is a grade.  Won't do anything to prevent poison ivy though.  Yikes!   :o

236
Gear Talk / Re: Comparing Kona Sutra and the Surly LHT
« on: May 06, 2010, 01:41:58 pm »
I have never broken a spoke with disc brakes, including hauling trailers with loads up to 200# (I weigh 190#) on stock wheels.  I think we would be seeing a lot more catastrophic failures spoke loads were much higher than normal.  Under rim braking, there is still a moment being applied to the spokes via the hub due to the inertia of the bicycle.  I have yet to see an explicit finite element analysis of the various forces in rim braking vs. disc braking, so this is my best guess based on my engineering experience.  But if spoke failure was a real issue, either it has already been engineered out or there would be more buzz regarding the matter. 

I also think that disc-specific wheels are currently overbuilt, in anticipation of the forces applied through the hub.  I have yet to see a disc wheel built with butted spokes (including my current custom set), yet if the moment arm of the hub was actually at risk of deforming the spokes, a butted spoke would be much better than straight gauge (ref: Art of the Wheel).

Properly configured, most bicycle braking systems have approximately equal braking power.  It is a matter of matching the mechanical advantage of the lever to the brake caliper (ref: Bicycle Science, and Sheldon Brown).  Discs have the advantage of all-weather capability and superlative modulation. 

Aside from one's specific braking requirements, I feel that choice of braking system is a religious argument.  Many peoples' minds are made up and they refuse to be confused by the facts.

237
Gear Talk / Re: Comparing Kona Sutra and the Surly LHT
« on: May 06, 2010, 11:23:40 am »
I had a 2008 Sutra.  The 2010 might have remedied some of the shortcomings, but I have not had opportunity to ride one yet.

But here are my takes on the Sutra:
http://waynemyer.com/2009/10/would-i-do-it-again.html
http://waynemyer.com/2009/10/whats-wrong-and-whats-right-with-kona.html
http://waynemyer.com/2009/10/more-sutra.html

I will add that while many poo-poo disc brakes, I really think they may be talking about something other than Avid BB7 or never ride in foul weather.  If you don't ride in foul weather, you probably don't need disc brakes.  Or, if you're going to be out for 10,000 miles without opportunity to buy new brake pads, then discs might be the right choice.

Also, the wheelbase on the Sutra is short.  If you have clodhoppers, like me, you may get heel strike.

238
Nuvi yes, Etrex no.

The Etrex will do turn-by-turn directions, but only with an audio prompt (a beep).  Depending on your settings, it will also display either a message or a cue sheet with an arrow indicating waypoint or course change.

239
Gear Talk / Re: Cross-USA touring bike choices
« on: April 29, 2010, 04:27:16 pm »
The short story: either component selection should do you just fine.

I have about 15,000 miles on my LX derailleur, about 6000 of those miles were in Vermont winters.  I have not taken good care of this derailleur, and I have replaced the jockey wheels when I felt like it.  It still shifts smoothly and responsively. 

My front derailleur is a C101.  I don't even know where this ranks in terms of budget derailleurs, but it is seriously low-end.  It has about 18,000 miles on it.  I am currently abusing and neglecting it (more so than in the past) as a personal science experiment to see how much more it can take.  I'm surprised the cage isn't worn-through yet.

I have had the XT and XT Shadow derailleurs.  They are both excellent derailleurs, but I give the nod to the shadow, if only because the narrow profile keeps it out of the way of things.


240
I haven't tried it, but a quick Google search turned up this: http://www.bevhoward.com/G2WPT.htm.  There are also tools to convert KML/KMZ files from Google Earth to GPX.  And finally, you can get a utility to download raster maps to mapping GPS units.  I have read that the performance is painfully slow, though.

I also have the Etrex Vista HCx.  I am very, very happy with this unit and use it as my cyclometer, mapping unit, and cue sheet.  I find the UI to be intuitive given the amount of features.  Car units do not translate well for bicycle use because of mounting, interface, battery life (~4 hours for the Nuvi), and lower sensitivity antenna.  I have used my Etrex in the car without issue, but the Nuvi is a much better unit for driving.

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