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Messages - DaveB

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Gear Talk / Re: Best Touring Wheelset
« on: November 17, 2017, 08:42:12 am »
For years I rode on stock wheels that came with the bike, Araya I think. Every once in a while I would break a spoke or two. I bought a cheap set of wheels, trashed them in under 1000 miles. I mean unrideable.
What you experienced is common with OEM and low cost wheels unless the LBS or the owner checks and adjust them for proper tension.  These wheels are always machine built and the tension is often uneven and too low.  Properly "tuned up" these wheels can be durable and have a long service life.

Gear Talk / Re: Best brakes and wheels for S&S Coupled touring bike?
« on: November 17, 2017, 08:34:10 am »
Wheel size if you can get it to fit in a case my choice would be a 29er for it runs more smoothly than 26" + it gets slowly more and more difficult to get 26" tyres across the globe.
29er wheels (ISO 622) are the same as 700c but with even bigger tires.  My 700-23 wheels and tires barely fit in the S&S case and then only after mostly deflating the tires.  Anything bigger would be hopeless.

650B/27.5 (ISO 584) wheels would fit even with reasonably large tires and, of course, 26" wheels (ISO 559) and tires would be a slam-dunk.  While 26" wheels and tires have tires are no longer "fashionable" for MTBs they will be widely available for the next several decades so that isn't a consideration.

Another but less likely wheel choice is 650c (ISO 571) which are available in road width rims and tires and would fit the S&S case easily but are relatively rare.  They were used on road bikes intended for smaller riders several years ago but you don't see them very often these days. 

Gear Talk / Re: Best brakes and wheels for S&S Coupled touring bike?
« on: November 16, 2017, 05:28:09 pm »
I had a 56 cm Co-Motion single with S&S couplers and 700c wheels and 700-23 tires  The wheels with tires would just fit. I did deflate the tires but did not have to remove them.  As to brakes, regular road caliper brakes pack easily with no problems. 

General Discussion / Re: Bike Computer
« on: November 09, 2017, 08:32:48 am »
Just an alternate point of view:  I've found the cheap Cateye wireless computers easy to install and use, and reliable.  The last one went for 3 years before the battery failed and the sensor on that one is still going after 4.
No question that current wireless bike computers can be reliable and have good battery life and many riders are very happy with them.  It's just that wired computers require only one battery, are less fussy about set up and alignment are usually less expensive.  Their only down side is the wire itself which some riders find a bit unsightly.

General Discussion / Re: Bike Computer
« on: November 08, 2017, 09:39:19 am »
+1 on the wired plain (non-GPS) Cat-Eye's.  They are light, easy to use and take cheap, readily available CR2032 batteries that last for years in daily use.   Like Russ, I'm a fan of the wired units since they only have one battery and no outside signals can interfere with the readings.

All of them provide current speed, trip distance (some have two trip distance readings), odometer for total distance, maximum speed, ride time and time-of-day.  Some also measure cadence if that's useful to you. Installation is simple and if you calibrate them properly to your tire size (a table of recommended calibration value for all common tire sizes is in the owner's manual) they are very accurate. 

Mine have been boringly reliable and, as Pat Lamb recommended, a film of dielectric grease on the contacts makes them almost completely rain proof. 

Excellent video and very well done but in serious need of more captions for the various locations and historical sites and sights.

My wife and I just returned from a 10-day driving trip through Ireland and fully agree it's a great place it is to visit.  Too bad you didn't get to Dingle as it would have been a great ride down the peninsula and the town is really charming. 

General Discussion / Re: Posting Images to Forum
« on: September 25, 2017, 07:38:27 pm »
Also, Photobucket has become a pay to use hosting site and any previous images posted using it will not show.  There are still free hosting sites out there (I don't know what they are but they are available) so find one of them or pay the Photobucket annual or monthly fee.

I've often wondered how well those "Companions Wanted" listings work out.  I'd screen any applicants very carefully for compatibility and riding style before agreeing to have them join you.  How tolerant are you for each other's food idiosyncrasies?  How rigid a schedule do you want to keep? Do either of you snore? :)  You get the idea.

 A mis-match can ruin the trip for both of you.

Gear Talk / Re: Thoughts on Nashbar Touring bike?
« on: September 03, 2017, 05:50:05 pm »
I can't speak to this particular bike except to say it's specifications are decent for the price.  My past experience with Nashbar's house-branded products has always been good.  They are reliable and very good for the cost.  Not cutting edge but good.

Gear Talk / Re: Dirt touring handlebar setup
« on: September 02, 2017, 05:45:45 pm »
I'd like to retain the original suntour components.....
An uphill, against the wind fight.  What's so special about them that newer, better performing components shouldn't be used?   Sun Tour (the REAL Sun Tour, not the current name owner) was a good manufacturer but they have been out of business for many years.

General Discussion / Re: What is proper etiquette?
« on: September 02, 2017, 07:54:57 am »
+4  Particularly with the kind of aggressive "Nannyism" the OP reported, the father is more likely to never get a helmet just to show he won't be coerced by an intrusive stranger.   "You catch more flies with honey...." seems to fit here.

General Discussion / Re: Vancouver to San Francisco in October 2017
« on: August 26, 2017, 01:50:00 pm »
Sounds like the OP has his choice; rain or fire.   :-\

Gear Talk / Re: Bike Choice for Bike Tour in Tibet
« on: August 24, 2017, 08:06:48 am »
I'm not sure there is a $500 mountain bike I would trust on a trip like that.  You are likely to spend more time fixing than riding. $500 is about what you should be spending on the wheel set, not the whole bike. I would recommend something like the Surly Troll with 1.75 or 2.0 marathon mondials. You didn't say if you were supported or un-supported. If you are supported you can get away with a more normal mountain bike that may be available at a reasonable price on the used market. Definitely check out adventure cycling.
+1  A $500 mountain bike is going to have a lot of compromises to meet it's price point and you really don't want to be dealing with low line components and wheels in the middle-of-nowhere.  A simple but higher line MTB or "fat tire" bike would be more suitable.  A full suspension bike would be more comfortable but the complexity may cause more problems then it's worth.  A "hard tail" frame is both simpler and lighter and a rigid fork may also be worth the added simplicity.  The Surly Troll is a good example of a simple but suitable better quality bike.

BTW, Mountain bikes come with three different wheel sizes these days: 26" (ISO 559"), 27.5/650B (ISO 584) and 29" (ISO 622, same as 700c road rims).  World wide 26" wheels and tires are much more commonly available and 29" can use a 700c tire.  27.5 is much more uncommon.  A 26" wheel is probably your best choice for where you are going to be.

What's this trip going to cost?  Don't compromise it by taking cheap equipment.

Gear Talk / Re: front gears
« on: August 08, 2017, 10:34:00 am »
1X gearing seems popular with MTB riders since it eliminates the sometimes problematic front derailleur and the wide gaps in gearing aren't that much of an issue off-road.   For road riding the situation is quite different.  Front shifting isn't that difficult or tricky under road conditions, even with a triple, and close gearing is far more appreciated. 

My road bike (not touring) gearing is a 50/39/26 triple crank and a 12x27 10-speed cassette.  My high gear is 112 gear-inches and my low gear is 26 gear-inches which is more than adequate for most road riding and my cassette is a "straight block" from 12T to 17T with small steps below that. 

Gear Talk / Re: Bike fitting is recommended or not?
« on: August 03, 2017, 08:45:58 pm »
Also keep in mind that you shouldn't mix steel with aluminum if you can help it... One will give up electrons to the other (I don't recall which direction it goes). The end result is that one will weld to the other in the short term, and in the long-term one will actually weaken the other. In construction they make special coated steel nails to use. I had forgotten about this issue of mixing aluminum with steel, but was reminded when I took the bolts off to rearrange the rack for the hitch, and had to break the slight beginnings of a weld to get the bolts off.
Ever hear of anti-seize or just plain grease?  Either will prevent the conditions you are describing? 

Also, even unprotected that aluminum corrosion will not happen very fast unless the bike is wet a great deal of the time.  When you hear of badly stuck seat posts or stems they have usually been neglected for years.

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