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I just checked with my REI in Santa Monica and they charge $93 (to ship to Minneapolis REI) insurance, bike box $10, having them box it up $35, and bike re-assembly would all be extra. Hmmm... still a bargain?Check shipping costs with Fed Ex and UPS and see if it's a bargain. Of course neither of them will box or reassemble the bike for you.
I have ridden both the trails mentioned above and agree that the crushed limestone surface, while "environmentally friendly", does have it's drawbacks. It's rolling resistance is noticably higher than any blacktop surface, particularly when wet, and it is really dusty in the dry.I have ridden an number of crushed limestone trails. It is cheaper than blacktop, but the rolling resistance is higher and I don't know how that affects you ADA requirements. Runoff does not seem to be an issue.Not only is the rolling resistance higher, but it can be dusty when dry, which is not friendly to drive trains. And it is susceptible to washouts - a preventable issue with adequate engineering of ditches and culverts. On the good side, any of these softer trail materials are more forgiving too tree roots that pass beneath them than asphalt which produces tell-tale cracks and bumps.
OK, group, what have I forgotten?Brake and shift cable housings and cables. Are the cable wires rusted or frayed? Are the housings dirty or cracked? If they haven't been replaced in a long time or are in poor shape, replace them all.
Additionally, you've got to a wee bit of math. Your total mass––you, bike, water, food, gear, clothing, tools, spares, everything--must be objectively measured before you begin going ultralight. Say your total moving mass at the moment is 250 pounds. Whittling away a whopping 10 pounds is a mere 4% reduction in your total mass! (240/250=96/100)By your logic then, adding another 20 pounds to the OP's load would also be an "insignificant" difference.
Those ten pounds don't gain you anything you can feel in your legs
also, I hear the avocet h20 air is a great saddle. any feed back on it? more importantly where can you get one?Returning briefly to your comment in the OP that you have saddle problems only when you ride no-hands for 20 minutes or more. I find that very strange as I have never seen anyone ride that way for more than a couple of minutes at a time. So, if that hurts, don't do it seem like an obvious answer.
this bike is red, has 26 inch wheels, cantaleever (spelling) brakes,I believe the smaller sprocket is a 22? I hope I gave you the corrrect model number or something close to it. I know its an 86 or 87 year and he did pay $800.00 which was a nice price back then. This bike was tagged as a "mountain bike" I believe although some people called it a hybrid even back then.If it has 26" wheels it is most likely a real mountain bike from it's day as hybrids have had 700c wheels right from their inception. I assume your bike has a rigid fork and a hardtail frame but that was what MTB's had in the 80's.
While in classic riding position, I have no issue,..... but I notice that when I ride no hands for more than 20 minutes I numb out.Do you mean you ride no-hands for 20 minutes or more all in one stretch? Excuse the obvious answer but the preventative is simple; don't do that.
I have a sojourn. I really like it. The handle bars did not fit me so I went to a traditional drop with STI shifters.This is usually an expensive upgrade as new STI shifters are expensive as after-market components and used ones (e-bay, etc.) are very much a crap shoot for reliability. If you want STI shifters, you will do better to buy a bike already equipped with them.
..... but the general word on the street is that Shimano road FDs don't work well with MTB chainrings.Actually it's not the FD's that don't work well across road/MTB chainrings. What doesn't work well is an MTB fd with STI road shifters or a road fd with MTB shifters.