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Rear stays aren't very strong when they don't have a wheel between them. I would want to stick an old hub or some kind of block in there is shipping a frame stripped down. When its buried in a duffel bag, no one knows that its a bike frame.Forks aren't either so it's best to place a spacer in both the fork and rear dropouts no matter how you pack the bike for shipment. Bikes shipped to bike shops have plastic fork spacers installed for shipment and you can get them free from any bike shop.
We are doing a charity ride planned for September 2010. Having seen the temperatures recently we were wondering if we should leave the trip until October or November and would welcome any advise from anyone who has past experience. We are attempting the whole journey in 30 days. Is this possible?30 days? That's an average of 100+ miles every day with no off-days at all. How are you at doing 30 back-to-back centuries? Do three or four consecutive century days and then decide if you can handle 10 times as many.
Thanks for all the help Im going to sell the bike.....A crash severe enough to ruin a fork may have also damaged the frame. Check it very carefully for a dented or crimped down tube and top tube and be sure the head tube wasn't ovalized by the impact. Selling a damaged frame to some unsuspecting purchaser is not a good move.
Another option is to buy a touring bike from a store like REI (www.rei.com) that offers an unconditional return policy. Buy it on the East Coast, return it in California. Not the best karma in my opinion, but it's an option (and I know someone who did it... not me!)This may be possible as REI and some other retailers do have unconditional return policies but the morality and honesty of what you describe are very poor. It sounds just like fraud to me.
No - can't get a trial run on this - the fork is on the bike, I cut the steerer yesterday, got the star nut and crown race installed today and put everything back together. Very short ride seemed okay but weather and other issues will prevent a reasonably long test ride for a few days.Please report back after you get an adequately long test ride as I'm interested in knowing how the fork change works out. Also, see how the bikes handles with your touring load. It will interesting to see how really noticable a major increase in trail like this is.
Actually, the Cannondale fork rake is 53 mm, the Surly is listed as 45 mm, so if I go through with this project the result will be more sluggish handling and more stability in a straight line - correct? Is 8 mm difference between stock and the Surly enough to make this project a no-go?A difference of 8 mm will certainly make a noticable difference in handling response. If the Cannondale's stock fork has a rake of 53 mm as you say, that implies the headtube angle must be quite shallow as the high rake value is needed to keep the trail measurement in the normal range. Reducing the rake will give a lot more trail and will slow the handling and improve high speed stability but may also lead to some "wheel flop" tendencies at very low speeds. Any way to try before you buy?
Thanks again all! Ed
The LHT fork has a bit more rake than the Cannondale fork, so you'll have a slightly wider wheelbase for a smooth ride....The difference in rake will have a completely negligible influence on wheelbase. It will, however, effect the handling and responsiveness of the bike. More rake equates to less trail which will "quicken" the bikes handling, that is the bike will turn a bit more eagerly and be a bit less stable in a straight line.