16
General Discussion / Re: Trek Portland
« on: October 29, 2010, 10:14:04 pm »
Hi waynemyer,
Thanks for your good advice,
Best,
Neil
Thanks for your good advice,
Best,
Neil
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17
General Discussion / Trek Portland
« on: October 29, 2010, 12:24:13 am »
Hi everybody,
I took a 2010 Trek Portland out for a ride tonight. It seems like it has potential for light touring. It has disc brakes & a relatively upright posture for a road bike. I would be concerned about the front fork which is made out of carbon, the relatively short frame (relative to a touring bike) that might lead to heel strikes. I could swap out the fenders at low cost, which seem insufficient. The wheels look flimsy relative to the needs of touring - I would want to swap those out, but I imagine that would be challenging due to the disc brakes. Here is a link to Trek's specifications for the Portland: http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/portland/portland/. Does anyone have experience touring with the 2010 Portland? Would you recommend touring with the Portland? Please let me know.
Thanks!
Neil
I took a 2010 Trek Portland out for a ride tonight. It seems like it has potential for light touring. It has disc brakes & a relatively upright posture for a road bike. I would be concerned about the front fork which is made out of carbon, the relatively short frame (relative to a touring bike) that might lead to heel strikes. I could swap out the fenders at low cost, which seem insufficient. The wheels look flimsy relative to the needs of touring - I would want to swap those out, but I imagine that would be challenging due to the disc brakes. Here is a link to Trek's specifications for the Portland: http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/portland/portland/. Does anyone have experience touring with the 2010 Portland? Would you recommend touring with the Portland? Please let me know.
Thanks!
Neil
18
General Discussion / Re: Bike Fit Where LBS Doesn't Have My Size In Stock
« on: October 29, 2010, 12:13:57 am »Neil from Brookline, MA
*I had a professional fitting performed & retain the measurements of the fitter. I am 5'10". The fitter recommends I use a top tube with a length of 55.
**The T1/T2 top tubes are 22/55.9 in length.
I had to go to the 2009 Cannondale archive to find the specs for the Touring bikes. Do they make 2010 Touring bikes? The top tube is 55.9cm horizontal. This is the same size as the current CAAD8 and CAAD10 56cm size frames. So ride one of them in 56cm and you will have about the same size bike as the Touring size Large. Seat tube angle is 73.5 on the CAAD and 73 on the Touring. Close enough. Head angle is different but that just affects steering, not reach.
Personally I think the size Large or 56cm CAAD with a 56cm top tube is the right size for you. The fitter's recommendation of 55cm top tube is short for a 5'10" man. If you are normal proportions of trunk, arms, legs, the 56cm top tube is the right size for you. I am 5'11" and use 57 or 57.5cm top tubes and 12cm stems. Lance Armstrong is 5'10" and used a 58cm Trek with a 57cm top tube and 11cm stem. Granted you are not Lance, but a good fit is fairly uniform. You should be able to ride another 5'10" person's frame in comfort. With a few minor changes such as 1-2cm different stem, 1-2cm more or less stem spacers, 1-2cm saddle forward or back on the rails, saddle up or down 1-2cm. All minor changes easily made that don't affect the handling of the bike. All assuming you have normal body proportions for a 5'10" person. If you have a 36" inseam or 24" inseam, and 5'10", then things are different.
Hi Russ,
Thanks for the feedback. Your advice about comparable frames is very helpful. My legs are a bit short & my arms are a bit long.
Best,
Neil
19
General Discussion / Re: Bike Fit Where LBS Doesn't Have My Size In Stock
« on: October 23, 2010, 11:18:35 pm »I'd do a dealer search on Cannondale's site. Then, start calling shops. There's no reason to be loyal to your LBS, as they aren't willing to earn your business. If a shop is worthwhile, they'll order it without coercing you into buying it.Hi,
BTW, I bought my last bike from a shop that's 4-1/2hrs away. The "local" shops that carry the brand are worthless, so no reason to patronize them.
I like your recommendation. The local LBS isn't offering any extras with the purchase of the bike other than the obligatory post-purchase tune-up. None of the close Cannondale sellers are willing to do a special order so I may want to make a drive.
Thanks for the recommendation,
Neil
20
General Discussion / Re: Bike Fit Where LBS Doesn't Have My Size In Stock
« on: October 20, 2010, 08:50:57 pm »I did not get a Trek 520 for a similar reason, a few years back. <rant on>Why, oh why, don't bike shops stock touring bikes?? <rant off>
I don't honestly know what's closest to a T1/2 in Cannondale's lineup. I'd suggest, though, that you might want to negotiate a bit with the shop. I sort of wish I had taken my LBS's best offer, which was that they'd order it with the understanding I would buy it unless they couldn't get it to fit. If you can get that sort of deal, then the onus is on them to make it fit. Really, there's only a few things they can do to correct a fit. (1) Raise or lower the seat. (2) Slide the seat forward or back. (3) Change saddle tilt. (4) Change out the stem. Make dead certain you have a deal with the shop to swap the stem, if that's needed, before you order the bike.
Note that the feel of the bike is going to change when you load it up, so to some degree, you have to pick something you think will be good and adapt to it.
Also, some REIs have carried Cannondale tourers on and off. If there's a few in your neck of the woods, you might want to call around and test ride them if they have them.
Hi pdlamb,
Thanks for your idea on how to bargain with the LBS. They want me to buy the bike & adjust thereafter so your recommendations give me some options.
In regard to REI, I would rather buy from them in any event. However, I called the nearest REI authorized to sell Cannondales & they told me they were unable to order it.
Best,
Neil
21
General Discussion / Re: Bike Fit Where LBS Doesn't Have My Size In Stock
« on: October 20, 2010, 08:47:09 pm »I would try that with one of the big chain stores, small local shops may not have the clout to turn it back in or move it should it not be right for you. Big stores can ship it off to another shop if needed.
Hi DwarvenChef,
Thanks for your email. Certain local REIs are permitted by Cannondale to sell their bikes. However, the nearest one stocking Cannondales tells me they cannot order T1s. Are there other chain stores in New England that you know of that might sell Cannondales?
Best,
Neil
22
General Discussion / Bike Fit Where LBS Doesn't Have My Size In Stock
« on: October 20, 2010, 08:21:22 am »
Hi everyone,
I am interested in buying a Cannondale T1 or T2 touring bike (size large). Unfortunately, none of the local bike shops have any size large T1s or T2s in stock. The bikes are only available as special orders. Naturally, I would prefer to try out the bike before buying it. However, I do not want to special order a bike & be responsible for the cost if for any reason the bike does not fit when it arrives. I am wondering if Cannondale makes a bike with a very similar frame that is more widely stocked that I could try out in place of the T1 or T2 so that I would have a reliable sense of what the fit is likely to be. Please let me know 1) if this plan is the best way for me to ensure I buy a bike that fits* & 2) if you can recommend any models that might be good “stand ins” for the T1 or T2.** Thanks!
Neil from Brookline, MA
*I had a professional fitting performed & retain the measurements of the fitter. I am 5'10". The fitter recommends I use a top tube with a length of 55.
**The T1/T2 top tubes are 22/55.9 in length.
I am interested in buying a Cannondale T1 or T2 touring bike (size large). Unfortunately, none of the local bike shops have any size large T1s or T2s in stock. The bikes are only available as special orders. Naturally, I would prefer to try out the bike before buying it. However, I do not want to special order a bike & be responsible for the cost if for any reason the bike does not fit when it arrives. I am wondering if Cannondale makes a bike with a very similar frame that is more widely stocked that I could try out in place of the T1 or T2 so that I would have a reliable sense of what the fit is likely to be. Please let me know 1) if this plan is the best way for me to ensure I buy a bike that fits* & 2) if you can recommend any models that might be good “stand ins” for the T1 or T2.** Thanks!
Neil from Brookline, MA
*I had a professional fitting performed & retain the measurements of the fitter. I am 5'10". The fitter recommends I use a top tube with a length of 55.
**The T1/T2 top tubes are 22/55.9 in length.
23
General Discussion / Re: Best Chain Ring?
« on: September 27, 2010, 11:56:17 pm »Did you peruse the FAQ on BikeSmith's site? They have some good comments, as follows:
What size chainrings should I get?
If you are getting spun out in high gear now, using the same gears with the shorter arms may fix this. For most riders, dropping 4 or 6 teeth on each ring seems to work well. If you currently use low gear far more often than high gear, you will want to use even smaller chainrings and/or a bigger cassette.
Most people with 26" drive wheels are going from 30-42-52 to 26-36-46 or 24-34-44. Faster riders are using 24-39-48. A few have gone to 22-34-42.
When I shorten Shimano 105s & Ultegras, about 1/3 of the owners have me install 24-39-48 FSA ramped and pinned rings to replace the stock 30-42-52 setup. Cost = $84
It's not unanimous, but a large majority of riders with 20" drive wheels and shorties do well with standard "Road Triple" gearing of 30-42-52.
http://bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/short_cranks_faqs.html
Hi Briwasson,
I want to make sure I understand your terms:
1) by "high gear", I assume that refers to the largest chainring?
2) what is meant by "spun out"?
Also, I do not understand the recommendations that the Bikesmith website makes above for gearing. Can you please clarify for a non-expert (please note that I am seeking 700 wheels)? For example, the webpage indicates that purchasers who buy smaller crank arms often seem to buy smaller chain ring combinations?
Thanks,
Neil
24
General Discussion / Re: Best Chain Ring?
« on: September 26, 2010, 12:35:45 pm »The most versatile gearing would be the 48/38/28 with the 24T granny substitution for the 28.
What you haven't told us is what cassette gearing you are going to use as that has a major effect on overall gear range too. An 11x34 or 12x23 are far different.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your reply. My thought had been (for no good reason other than cost savings) to use the cassette provided with the bike by the manufacturer. In the case of the Surly it has an 11X34, the Trek has 11x32, & the Bianchi has 11X32. Will they match well with chainring combination that you propose?
Best,
Neil
25
General Discussion / Best Chain Ring?
« on: September 25, 2010, 06:56:49 pm »
Hi everyone,
I have some questions on what size chain ring is most appropriate for me. I would appreciate the recommendations of the list. I have narrowed my choice to two options:*
•Truvativ Isoflow 22/32/42 (http://bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/IsoFlow.html)
•Truvativ Isoflow 28/38/48**
Whch of the above chain ring combinations would be best for me?
Here is some background:
•I plan to use the bike primarily for commuting & hauling heavy groceries & then next year for loaded touring.
•I am 5’11” & 170 pounds
•I am likely to purchase one of the following – Trek 520, Surley LHT, or Bianchi Volpe & mount the chain ring on one of these.
•I will use 700 wheels
•I prefer a triple chain ring
•I live in New England where long steep hills are abundant
•My knees are arthritic
•I will be riding the bike with short (145 mm) crank arms, which I will soon be purchasing from BikeSmith***
I have an additional question: how if at all does having short crank arms impact the choice of chain ring tooth combinations?
Thanks everyone!
Neil
* For the reader’s reference, I have settled on these two chain rings because they are the most affordable triples available from BikeSmith that will accommodate short crank arms
** Kindly note that I have the option to substitute a 26 tooth Shimano ring or a 24 tooth Sugino ring on the 28/38/48.
***Unfortunately, Mark at BikeSmith was unable to recommend a particular set of specifications for the chain rings.
I have some questions on what size chain ring is most appropriate for me. I would appreciate the recommendations of the list. I have narrowed my choice to two options:*
•Truvativ Isoflow 22/32/42 (http://bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/IsoFlow.html)
•Truvativ Isoflow 28/38/48**
Whch of the above chain ring combinations would be best for me?
Here is some background:
•I plan to use the bike primarily for commuting & hauling heavy groceries & then next year for loaded touring.
•I am 5’11” & 170 pounds
•I am likely to purchase one of the following – Trek 520, Surley LHT, or Bianchi Volpe & mount the chain ring on one of these.
•I will use 700 wheels
•I prefer a triple chain ring
•I live in New England where long steep hills are abundant
•My knees are arthritic
•I will be riding the bike with short (145 mm) crank arms, which I will soon be purchasing from BikeSmith***
I have an additional question: how if at all does having short crank arms impact the choice of chain ring tooth combinations?
Thanks everyone!
Neil
* For the reader’s reference, I have settled on these two chain rings because they are the most affordable triples available from BikeSmith that will accommodate short crank arms
** Kindly note that I have the option to substitute a 26 tooth Shimano ring or a 24 tooth Sugino ring on the 28/38/48.
***Unfortunately, Mark at BikeSmith was unable to recommend a particular set of specifications for the chain rings.
26
General Discussion / Re: Short Crank Arm Purchase Tips?
« on: September 23, 2010, 10:02:38 pm »
I see what you are saying but what I quote below is what the gentleman (Mel?) said.
That doesn't seem right: are you sure you understood Mel at Tandems East correctly? The shorteners have several holes drilled at different lengths to allow for a child's growth (that's what they are usually used for on tandems). Indeed, the website says: "Shortens the crank length by 24mm, 41mm, 59mm & 76mm. Reduce cranks by 3” at the max." Just look at the pic on their website and you'll see what I mean.Hi
I finally had a chance to call Tandems East today. I thought the reply would be of general interest to the list. According to the vendor, the way crank arm shorteners work is that they effectively cut the crank arm length in half. So if you have 175 mm crank arms now, the crank arm shorteners will produce a 87.5 mm crank arm. For my purposes, that is too low.
Thanks,
NeilIf you want to try shorter cranks without initially investing in new cranks, you could use crank shorteners that bolt onto your existing cranks. These are commonly used on tandems to allow shorter (child) stokers to pedal, but would also work for what you want. An additional benefit is they will allow you to try different lengths to see what works best for you.
See http://www.tandemseast.com/parts/cranks.html#Crank%20Shrotners
27
General Discussion / Re: Short Crank Arm Purchase Tips?
« on: September 15, 2010, 09:45:03 pm »
Hi
I finally had a chance to call Tandems East today. I thought the reply would be of general interest to the list. According to the vendor, the way crank arm shorteners work is that they effectively cut the crank arm length in half. So if you have 175 mm crank arms now, the crank arm shorteners will produce a 87.5 mm crank arm. For my purposes, that is too low.
Thanks,
Neil
I finally had a chance to call Tandems East today. I thought the reply would be of general interest to the list. According to the vendor, the way crank arm shorteners work is that they effectively cut the crank arm length in half. So if you have 175 mm crank arms now, the crank arm shorteners will produce a 87.5 mm crank arm. For my purposes, that is too low.
Thanks,
Neil
If you want to try shorter cranks without initially investing in new cranks, you could use crank shorteners that bolt onto your existing cranks. These are commonly used on tandems to allow shorter (child) stokers to pedal, but would also work for what you want. An additional benefit is they will allow you to try different lengths to see what works best for you.
See http://www.tandemseast.com/parts/cranks.html#Crank%20Shrotners
28
General Discussion / Re: Short Crank Arm Purchase Tips?
« on: September 15, 2010, 09:37:31 pm »
Hi briwasson,
Thanks for the tip. According to the website, the vendor usually recommends shortened cranks only for recumbents.
Neil
Thanks for the tip. According to the website, the vendor usually recommends shortened cranks only for recumbents.
Neil
Another option I forgot to mention is to have cranks custom-shortened. There's a guy on the Web that offers this service. I haven't used him myself, although I've heard good things from others in the tandem community.
See http://bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/shorten.html
Brian
29
General Discussion / Re: Short Crank Arm Purchase Tips?
« on: September 11, 2010, 10:21:24 pm »
Hi rvklassen, Thanks very much for your explanation!
30
General Discussion / Re: Short Crank Arm Purchase Tips?
« on: September 10, 2010, 11:31:10 pm »
Hi Ducnut,
Thanks for a very comprehensive reply. By way of background, I talked with Peter White by telephone about six weeks ago. His recommendation was that I get the shortest possible crank arms to accommodate my creaky knees & specifically stated that 150 mm is the absolute maximum size crank arm that I should use. As of the time I called him, the smallest size he sold was 155 mm.
Best,
Neil
Thanks for a very comprehensive reply. By way of background, I talked with Peter White by telephone about six weeks ago. His recommendation was that I get the shortest possible crank arms to accommodate my creaky knees & specifically stated that 150 mm is the absolute maximum size crank arm that I should use. As of the time I called him, the smallest size he sold was 155 mm.
Best,
Neil