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As a thought which I had considered is choosing an mtb crankset with a road front mech feasible, would I need to chose a mtb crankset which gives a chainline of 45mm, or would I need to use a road hollowtech II BB to force the mtb chainrings to give me a chainline of 45mm?
If you go nutty and try a 36 rear cog, then your derailleur hanger my not be low enough and the rear derailleur will not fit underneath the 36 cog. So that will not work.
I don't know what happens if a Greyhound staffer flops the box on its side and pile crap on top of it.
I have always thought Greyhound Freight was interesting. They ship from one Greyhound bus depot to another bus depot. It has been a while, but Greyhound was pretty flexible on box size--it just has to be low enough to fit in a cargo hold.
I just can't determine the advantage of a custom bike at this point (having no experience), so seems foolish to spend the money on a bike I can't even test and hope it will be 250% better!
Definitely consider the ultra light method. Several on this site have talked about that way. I have a loaded touring bike and panniers. So heavy loaded for me. But if I was starting from scratch again, I would seriously consider the ultra light method with a regular road bike. Adventure Cycling sells several bags that attach under the saddle and inside the main triangle for carrying a large amount of gear.
Another person argues against buying a frame and building it yourself because the cost is usually more than buying it direct already built as a complete bike. With the Terry it is very easy to see if this is true or not. Terry says it is a Gunnar frame/fork. Gunnar sells its frames direct to the public and lists its prices. Price both the standard and custom options. Terry also lists all the parts on the bike. Simple to find all those parts on the internet and list their prices. See if the totals work out right or wrong. Biggest benefit for building it yourself is you get to pick every part yourself and get what you want.
Russ, thanks I had not really priced the Gunnar frames/forks, etc. I don't think the 480 frame will work for me (too big) but I should compare the specs with the Terry and LHT and also contact Gunnar, especially if I can save $$. Will have to ask what the frame weighs also.
Thank you all for your replies. I forgot to mention, I am a 5'1", 120 lb. woman, so a 30 lb. bike with another 30-50 lbs. of gear is relatively a bigger concern to me than a bigger rider (I think). So a savings of ~ 8-10 lbs. in bike alone is substantial.
If you read the bike description http://georgenaterry.com/coto-donana-tour/
it says it's designed for loaded touring
So does the lighter weight alone make it less stable under load (shimmy)?
RussSeaton, I'll look into other custom frame makers as you suggested, but I think they are all in this $3500 range , from some cursory investigation I have done. I liked this bike, but think I've convinced myself I prefer 26" wheels for touring.
Do the geometry in your head. Something full length and non-inflatable that is even a mere 1" thick is going to be bulky when folded or rolled. You are not going to find such a pad that packs down to a size comparable to an inflatable.