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Messages - dkoloko

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Gear Talk / Re: Terry Touring Bikes - Coto Doñana Tour
« on: August 03, 2016, 05:31:52 pm »
Russ, thanks I had not really priced the Gunnar frames/forks, etc. I don't think the 480 frame will work for me (too big) but I should compare the specs with the Terry and LHT and also contact Gunnar, especially if I can save $$. Will have to ask what the frame weighs also.

Maybe you will save on buying a frame and building bike yourself, but historically, building a bike from a frame costs a lot more than buying a comparable complete bicycle. Also, for what appears your experience, there are a lot of choices when building a bike. A bike shop can build up a frame and help with choices, but don't expect it to be cheaper than a comparable complete bike.

Gear Talk / Re: Terry Touring Bikes - Coto Doñana Tour
« on: August 03, 2016, 12:03:51 pm »
This is a review of Pangea, Co-Motion's off road tourer. Co-Motion makes tourers more dedicated to road touring, but the Pangea might be interesting, as there is a 26 in. version specifically for shorter riders.

Gear Talk / Re: Terry Touring Bikes - Coto Doñana Tour
« on: August 03, 2016, 10:10:18 am »
Thank you all for your replies. I forgot to mention, I am a 5'1", 120 lb. woman, so a 30 lb. bike with another 30-50 lbs. of gear is relatively a bigger concern to me than a bigger rider (I think). So a savings of ~ 8-10 lbs. in bike alone is substantial.

If you read the bike description
it says it's designed for loaded touring

 So does the lighter weight alone make it less stable under load (shimmy)?

RussSeaton, I'll look into other custom frame makers as you suggested, but I think they are all in this $3500 range , from some cursory investigation I have done. I liked this bike, but think I've convinced myself I prefer 26" wheels for touring.

You would not be saving 8-10lb. My Trek 520 weighs 24 lb. At 21 lb., you'll save 3 lb. With a load, I doubt you'll note much difference. A full waterbottle weighs 2lb. Think you'll go faster after you've drained a waterbottle?

Yes, you can have shimmy with a loaded lightweight bike. However, I'd trust Terry that this bike, although lightweight, is designed for fully loaded touring.

I'd investigate Co-motion, highly respected proven model at same price, with advantage of being semi-custom fitted to you.

Gear Talk / Re: Sleeping Pad Recommendation
« on: July 22, 2016, 12:22:39 pm »
Do the geometry in your head. Something full length and non-inflatable that is even a mere 1" thick is going to be bulky when folded or rolled. You are not going to find such a pad that packs down to a size comparable to an inflatable.

Not criterion that the pad "packs down to a size comparable to an inflatable". Not bulky means to me, fit in pannier. Also, non-inflatable does not mean non-compressible.

Gear Talk / Sleeping Pad Recommendation
« on: July 20, 2016, 04:58:42 pm »
Looking for sleeping pad recommendation. Requirements are full length, non-inflatable, not more than a pound or so in weight, and not bulky. Currently have Ensolite pad; should be something better. Non-inflatable I have seen in stores are much too bulky. Had number of inflatable pads, self inflating, blow up, pump, no pump; soured on inflatables when on last trip inflatable valve failed. REI pad; no repair, even if I paid for repair.

Back when I owned a Surly LHT I made several mods to it, each of which improved it significantly.

3. Moved the bar end shifters to Paul Thumbies

Be interested in more information. Paul Thumbies on drop bars? Thanks.

Consider the above a very personal opinion.

No.  Not very personal at all.  Almost every single "costly" bicycle sold has combination brake/shifter levers.  Mountain and road bikes.  Both.  If bar end shifters were desired by a majority of people, then the capitalist society we live in would provide them.  If friction shifters were better than the indexed click shifters on every single bike sold, we would have friction shifters.  In a capitalist society, the businesses provide the buyers what they want to buy and will pay for.  That is how capitalism works.  But if you are trying to sell what no one wants, then you won't sell anything.  That is capitalism too.  How many friction or bar end shifters do you see people using?  Almost none.  Touring bikes are somewhat bizarre because they use mountain bike components and need road shifters.  Bar end shifters are an easy way to make this work.  Otherwise you have to mix and match various years and models of road and mountain together to get it to work right.  Go to all your local bike shops.  How many bar end or friction shifting bikes are sold?  None.  Why?  The bike shop is there to make money.  If all their customers want to buy bar end shifters, they would sell all they could.  They would make money and be happy.  But no one wants bar end shifters.  So the bike shop does not sell any.  Very simple.  All the customers want those new fangled (25 years old now) combination shifter/brake do-hickeys.

Trek, Bruce Gordon, Peter White, and other highly respected assemblers of touring bikes specify bar end shifters. Neither their customers or this touring bicyclist "All...want those new fangled (25 years old now) combination shifter/brake do-hickeys". My comment, as appropriate to this list, is about touring bicycles, not about "how capitalism works", or all the other bicycles a bike shop may sell. The originator of this topic can decide if follow the advice of the number of manufacturers of touring bicycles or your very personal opinion.


Shifting:  The LHT comes with bar end shifters.  Fine choice.  Some love them.  Until they ride a bike with the new fangled modern supposedly delicate and breakable STI shifters.  Then they want to take a hammer to bar end shifters and pound them into junk.  You could make your riding, loaded or unloaded, more fun with STI shifters.

Consider the above a very personal opinion. I have swapped brifters for bar-end shifters on several touring bikes. For most any touring bike gearing, getting lower gears, and tires are primary considerations.

Routes / Re: Northern Tier Alternate
« on: June 20, 2016, 08:34:30 pm »
A slightly longer route but flatter would be to follow the Erie Canal to Albany and then follow the Hudson River south.  The finger lakes area is often very hilly with steep inclines, especially around Ithaca.

If you can get yourself south of the steep inclines in the Finger Lakes, which I have bicycled, and angle southeast, to the general area of Rt 209, you will have glorious downhills, and I think a more satisfying route than following the Hudson River south. If you decide to follow the Hudson River south, avoid Rt 9W.

Routes / Re: Northern Tier Alternate
« on: June 20, 2016, 06:32:27 pm »
I advise, in general, avoid main roads. If you travel through the Allegheny Mountains, you will have lots of hills to climb.

Routes / Re: Northern Tier Alternate
« on: June 19, 2016, 07:48:06 am »
Official NY state bike route may follow busy roads; direct, but not most enjoyable or safest. Avoid Rt 17.

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: June 17, 2016, 10:59:06 am »
I could comment on several others' comments, but I'll just make one comment.

The saddle you rave about after a 50 mile ride, may not prove to be any better than the one you used before when you ride 50 miles (or so) a day for weeks or more on tour.

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: May 30, 2016, 12:30:46 pm »
I had no problem with saddles I mentioned on day rides. Touring, riding daily, eight hours or so, weeks or months, I have the problem you have. Last tour, two months, had the blisters, but none exploded, would would have acerbated problem. Newest saddle, mentioned, or topical medicine doctor says he can prescribe for me may inhibit getting the saddle sores next tour. Have to wait and see.

Asked, earlier, there be separate Forum for medical issues. Got reply good idea, but not initiated. Could be well received.

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: May 30, 2016, 09:47:28 am »
I have your problem. Among the saddles mentioned in this thread that I have tried are Brooks B-7, narrow and regular, Brooks Professional, and Selle San Marco Regal and Rolls. I have not used a Specialized Romin, but I have used other saddles with similar trough, such as Fizik Arione . I am currently using a Selle Anatomica that I have yet to use on an extended tour.

I do not think you will cure your problem by buying a new B-17. A doctor, specialist, recommended against using Vasoline; clogs pores. My doctor recommended 1% Hydrocortisone, available without a prescription, which I use. Does not eliminate the problem, but reduces chance of eruptions, and gives more comfort when riding if eruptions have occurred.

I have not found "That ugly little problem can be cured by a wash up before every ride with soap and water (do not use alcohol!)." This does not mean I am saying you should not keep the area clean; recommend that. I am saying, in my experience, cleanliness will neither prevents or cures the problem.

I have not found shorts the answer. I have used Assos shorts, both regular and bib, among other brands. Assos are tough and fit well, but I haven't gotten more wear from them than much cheaper shorts, and I have find the padding too thick for my comfort.

Classifieds / Re: WTB: few PC-971 links
« on: March 14, 2016, 09:16:05 am »
I have been able to get a few links free or by paying at a bike shop. May not be exact model chain you are using; hasn't bothered me.

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