Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - dkoloko

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 22
Back when I owned a Surly LHT I made several mods to it, each of which improved it significantly.

3. Moved the bar end shifters to Paul Thumbies

Be interested in more information. Paul Thumbies on drop bars? Thanks.

Consider the above a very personal opinion.

No.  Not very personal at all.  Almost every single "costly" bicycle sold has combination brake/shifter levers.  Mountain and road bikes.  Both.  If bar end shifters were desired by a majority of people, then the capitalist society we live in would provide them.  If friction shifters were better than the indexed click shifters on every single bike sold, we would have friction shifters.  In a capitalist society, the businesses provide the buyers what they want to buy and will pay for.  That is how capitalism works.  But if you are trying to sell what no one wants, then you won't sell anything.  That is capitalism too.  How many friction or bar end shifters do you see people using?  Almost none.  Touring bikes are somewhat bizarre because they use mountain bike components and need road shifters.  Bar end shifters are an easy way to make this work.  Otherwise you have to mix and match various years and models of road and mountain together to get it to work right.  Go to all your local bike shops.  How many bar end or friction shifting bikes are sold?  None.  Why?  The bike shop is there to make money.  If all their customers want to buy bar end shifters, they would sell all they could.  They would make money and be happy.  But no one wants bar end shifters.  So the bike shop does not sell any.  Very simple.  All the customers want those new fangled (25 years old now) combination shifter/brake do-hickeys.

Trek, Bruce Gordon, Peter White, and other highly respected assemblers of touring bikes specify bar end shifters. Neither their customers or this touring bicyclist "All...want those new fangled (25 years old now) combination shifter/brake do-hickeys". My comment, as appropriate to this list, is about touring bicycles, not about "how capitalism works", or all the other bicycles a bike shop may sell. The originator of this topic can decide if follow the advice of the number of manufacturers of touring bicycles or your very personal opinion.


Shifting:  The LHT comes with bar end shifters.  Fine choice.  Some love them.  Until they ride a bike with the new fangled modern supposedly delicate and breakable STI shifters.  Then they want to take a hammer to bar end shifters and pound them into junk.  You could make your riding, loaded or unloaded, more fun with STI shifters.

Consider the above a very personal opinion. I have swapped brifters for bar-end shifters on several touring bikes. For most any touring bike gearing, getting lower gears, and tires are primary considerations.

Routes / Re: Northern Tier Alternate
« on: June 20, 2016, 08:34:30 pm »
A slightly longer route but flatter would be to follow the Erie Canal to Albany and then follow the Hudson River south.  The finger lakes area is often very hilly with steep inclines, especially around Ithaca.

If you can get yourself south of the steep inclines in the Finger Lakes, which I have bicycled, and angle southeast, to the general area of Rt 209, you will have glorious downhills, and I think a more satisfying route than following the Hudson River south. If you decide to follow the Hudson River south, avoid Rt 9W.

Routes / Re: Northern Tier Alternate
« on: June 20, 2016, 06:32:27 pm »
I advise, in general, avoid main roads. If you travel through the Allegheny Mountains, you will have lots of hills to climb.

Routes / Re: Northern Tier Alternate
« on: June 19, 2016, 07:48:06 am »
Official NY state bike route may follow busy roads; direct, but not most enjoyable or safest. Avoid Rt 17.

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: June 17, 2016, 10:59:06 am »
I could comment on several others' comments, but I'll just make one comment.

The saddle you rave about after a 50 mile ride, may not prove to be any better than the one you used before when you ride 50 miles (or so) a day for weeks or more on tour.

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: May 30, 2016, 12:30:46 pm »
I had no problem with saddles I mentioned on day rides. Touring, riding daily, eight hours or so, weeks or months, I have the problem you have. Last tour, two months, had the blisters, but none exploded, would would have acerbated problem. Newest saddle, mentioned, or topical medicine doctor says he can prescribe for me may inhibit getting the saddle sores next tour. Have to wait and see.

Asked, earlier, there be separate Forum for medical issues. Got reply good idea, but not initiated. Could be well received.

Gear Talk / Re: saddles and sores
« on: May 30, 2016, 09:47:28 am »
I have your problem. Among the saddles mentioned in this thread that I have tried are Brooks B-7, narrow and regular, Brooks Professional, and Selle San Marco Regal and Rolls. I have not used a Specialized Romin, but I have used other saddles with similar trough, such as Fizik Arione . I am currently using a Selle Anatomica that I have yet to use on an extended tour.

I do not think you will cure your problem by buying a new B-17. A doctor, specialist, recommended against using Vasoline; clogs pores. My doctor recommended 1% Hydrocortisone, available without a prescription, which I use. Does not eliminate the problem, but reduces chance of eruptions, and gives more comfort when riding if eruptions have occurred.

I have not found "That ugly little problem can be cured by a wash up before every ride with soap and water (do not use alcohol!)." This does not mean I am saying you should not keep the area clean; recommend that. I am saying, in my experience, cleanliness will neither prevents or cures the problem.

I have not found shorts the answer. I have used Assos shorts, both regular and bib, among other brands. Assos are tough and fit well, but I haven't gotten more wear from them than much cheaper shorts, and I have find the padding too thick for my comfort.

Classifieds / Re: WTB: few PC-971 links
« on: March 14, 2016, 09:16:05 am »
I have been able to get a few links free or by paying at a bike shop. May not be exact model chain you are using; hasn't bothered me.

Gear Talk / Re: On the edge - small, or extra small troll?
« on: March 05, 2016, 10:19:14 am »
Worry about standover height with a bike with a sloping top tube?

My local bike shop's owner/mechanic, who I have a lot of respect for, says if between sizes buy the smaller bike; easier to adjust for size from there.

Classifieds / SOLD: MSR Hubba Lightweight Solo Tent
« on: March 01, 2016, 09:46:08 pm »
MSR Hubba Tent in very good condition; free standing, double walled, bathtub floor, vestibule. Fly seams triple sealed Side entrance for easy access. Floor: 86 x 26 in. Height: 40 in. Packed size: 20x6 in. Little over 3 lb including tent, fly, poles, stakes, tent bag, pole bag, and stakes bag. Can be used without fly or with fly alone (groundsheet available). $200 plus shipping. New model sells for $349.95. (Will have groundsheet to sell separately.)

Photo is representative; not actual. Ground still frozen to erect outside.

Gear Talk / Re: How to pack my sleeping bag
« on: February 04, 2016, 11:46:05 am »
In my experience, a 20 degree sleeping bag is overkill. I pack my bag in an ordinary stuff bag in a waterproof pannier. If you cannot get your bag inside your pannier, I recommend lashing it to your rack in a dry bag (waterproof seal) or two waterproof stuff sacks, with openings facing opposite. I am not much for garbage bags or other disposable plastic bags, except in an emergency.

Gear Talk / Re: 2016 Cannondale Touring Bikes
« on: January 29, 2016, 11:30:53 am »
I want a bike that can be ridden in group rides at a moderate pace without being dropped.
The Cannondale Touring 1 is going to weigh in at around 30lbs or more. Hard to see you keeping up with a group of riders on lightweight road bikes.

I thought of that. Don't know if the Cannondale weighs 30lbs or more; that's a lot; could with fenders, racks, etc, and heavy tires. Even at minimum weight, with just one rack and narrow, lightweight tires (narrow for a touring  bike), expect it to weigh 24 lb or so; decent for a touring bike, but not lightweight.

Gear Talk / Re: 2016 Cannondale Touring Bikes
« on: January 27, 2016, 09:52:14 pm »
Rivendell Atlantis fills that niche; not so popular since price went up, but will illustrate concept; all everything bike, suitable for light touring, Number of lower cost similar alternatives. It's not aluminum; very limited choices in aluminum touring bikes. Had several Cannondale touring bikes; satisfied with them, but not so I would limit myself to aluminum buying a new touring bike. The fat tubing causes problems, such as finding replacement front derailleur; also the thin walled aluminum dents easily; more problem touring than general riding.

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 22