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Messages - dkoloko

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Gear Talk / Re: What lube to use for touring.
« on: December 31, 2014, 04:01:52 pm »
"Since Bicycle chains do not have O-rings seals like Motorcycle chains have you will never have an issue with cleaning lube out of places you cannot get lube back into."

FWIW, chain manufacturers say not to soak chains in cleaner, so that original lubricant is not removed from innermost areas.
Sheldon Brown had the following to say about that:
"Factory Lube
New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.

Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!

The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube."

Excerpted from

Actually, Sheldon is answering a different question: should the lubricant that is on the chain when new be removed? Is that lubricant just for protection until sold?

My response you replied to answers the question, if you clean your chain, is it wise to soak it?

Someone, listening to Sheldon, may run the chain with the original lubrication until dirty, then soak it before re-lubing.

Gear Talk / Re: What lube to use for touring.
« on: December 31, 2014, 12:24:06 pm »
"Since Bicycle chains do not have O-rings seals like Motorcycle chains have you will never have an issue with cleaning lube out of places you cannot get lube back into."

FWIW, chain manufacturers say not to soak chains in cleaner, so that original lubricant is not removed from innermost areas.

Gear Talk / Re: What lube to use for touring.
« on: December 30, 2014, 10:27:09 am »
I use wax; not drip on wax, which I tried and found wanting, but melted wax. Lasts about 500 miles. Not the trouble those who don't wax think it is; I carry a stove anyway. Advantages besides cleanliness is not having to clean chain before re-lubing and better drive train durability than other lubricants. Not want to get into a discussion of pros and cons of waxing; see archives if interested in that. Just saying what I use and how long it lasts.

Gear Talk / Re: chain ring sizing
« on: November 05, 2014, 12:32:48 pm »
Answer no. Ran 50-45-24 for many years, no problems. Your chain problem is another matter.

Classifieds / Re: FOR SALE: New and Very Good Items, Cheap
« on: August 24, 2014, 08:57:36 pm »
No Cannondale T600 bicycle for sale; the only items listed for sale are above. If interested in any item listed, contact me off web.

Classifieds / FOR SALE: Update, All New or Very Good Condition
« on: August 20, 2014, 07:38:41 pm »
All items in very good condition, unless otherwise noted. All plus shipping. Photos for all.

Tires, New Pair Kenda 24x1.75 in. Blackwall, $18. 4 out of 5 reviewers gave 5-star rating. 55 sold with rim strips and tubes for $53.43 plus $13.75 shipping.

Tire, New with tag, Specialized Turbo Sport, 700x26c, Highly Rated! $10. This tire sells for $30.  SOLD.

Front Derailleur, New take-off Shimano Tiagra Double, Clamp-on, Bottom Pull, Multi clamp:28.6, 31.8mm (28.6mm: 31.8 w/adapter) $17.50. This derailleur sells for $47.99.

Front Hub, New Ritchey type 32 hole polished aluminum, $6. Have two. No skewer. BOTH SOLD.

Messenger Bag, New Sunlite; 20x14x5 in. Felt lined laptop compartment. $15. Smaller Sunlite Messenger Bag sells for $86.48.

Rear Wheel, Velocity Arrowhead Shimano LX 9-Speed, 32 hole, 700c, 135mm wide, with skewer, in excellent condition, $102.50. This wheel with Tiagra hub (no better than LX) sells for $210.00.

Hub Set, 6-7 Speed Freewheel, with skewers; inspected, cleaned, repacked, and adjusted, $29. SOLD.

Chainwheel, 32 Tooth Silver Ramped & Pinned 104mm Steel; black insert has shifting ramps and protects chainring, $9. SOLD.

Headset Wrench, Axis 36, $3. Made in USA.  SOLD.

Headset Wrench, New 595897 WF04 Pro, $6. This tool sells for $20. Made in USA.

Cassette, New Shimano 8-Speed 11-30, $24.50;  Cassettes of this series with common sprocket selections sell for $41.99. SOLD.

Shorts, Hincape Women's Tri Bicycling, Medium, padded seat, small hidden pockets for keys, money, etc. $24.50.

Freewheel, Sun-Race Shimano Remover Compatible 6-Speed, 14-28 tooth cogs; ramped for better shifting, $9.

Cassette Hub, Shimano LX, 32 hole, 130mm, Fits 7 speed mountain bike, or 8, or 9, or 10 speed road bike. Professionally checked and adjusted. No skewer, $15.

Gear Talk / Re: Best foot wear for touring?
« on: July 26, 2014, 12:57:30 pm »
For all those eager advocates of SPD clips, or any other mechanical method of attaching your feet to the pedals, here's something few of the clip using fraturnity rarely tell you.  Unless you aquaint yourself at an early stage in your cycling life and feel very comfortable getting in and out of clips at split-second notice without having time to think you might end up as I did a few years back, running out of momentum on a steep hill and quite suddenly face down on the black-top.

Unless you're a serious road racer I see very little justification for any kind of clips.

Definitely not true for me. Went from no retention to toe clips to clipless. Moderate learning curve each upgrade. Not having to think is what should be. I suspect your settings were too tight. I set my clipless pedals at lowest release setting. Unless you are a very vigorous pedaler for a recreational cyclist, lowest setting should be sufficient. While the choice it is a matter of preference, I use clipless pedals for fast recreational cycling and touring, and experience the advantages. I suspect a perusal of the archives will find other such pronouncements when clipless first came on the market. I will say now what I said then, if you try clipless you'll probably like them; most did.

Gear Talk / Re: Best foot wear for touring?
« on: July 23, 2014, 04:42:17 pm »
Cycling shoes have been some kind of plastic for about a decade or two now.  Wet cycling shoes is not really an issue.  If you wear socks, the socks will get wet from sweat or rain.  But plastic shoes getting wet is not a problem.

I suspect this is true only for some shoes. Shoes I wore and am wearing around town are usual mix of synthetics found in low end mountain bike shoes; what I found a good choice for touring (if not get wet) and around town.

Gear Talk / Re: Best foot wear for touring?
« on: July 22, 2014, 01:00:01 pm »
I gave up cycling shoes when they got wet and stayed wet. Switched to bicycling sandals with clipless cleats. Only footwear.

Routes / Re: To many choices
« on: July 04, 2014, 08:20:28 am »
Highlights of the Northern Tier are Niagara Falls, Canada, Erie Canal Towpath, NY, and Road to the Sun, Glacier Nat Park, MT.

Gear Talk / Re: Ortlieb Pannier Shoulder Straps???
« on: May 31, 2014, 10:17:55 am »
After two weeks on the transamerica I can report that a) we're glad we brought the straps because it's not necessary to clip and unclip each time we open the panniers.


Routes / Re: Rainwear for the GDMBR
« on: May 27, 2014, 08:07:11 am »
You can get experience using jacket hood or helmet cover in next rain without leaving home. Personally, I've found a jacket hood is awkward under or over helmet. I wear sandals touring, in large part they can get wet without problem; no socks. Presuming warm weather, I take off my gloves when it's heavily raining. I take pants, if no other reason for warmth and wear in camp when there are flying bugs; not as important as jacket. There will be the usual replies no waterproof, breathable garment works, you're going to get wet. My reply, there is a difference between just being damp and being soaked.

Routes / Re: Pacific Coast: Vancouver or Bellingham?
« on: April 29, 2014, 10:17:46 am »

If I fly to Bellingham, I would ride the 21 miles up to the border before turning around and heading south.

Anybody else faced similar concerns when doing the Pacific Coast, and which way did you decide? Is it worth the extra cost and border-crossing hassle to go to Vancouver?

Thanks for your thoughts.

While I would have preferred to have begun at the start, Vancouver, Canada, I started south from Bellingham to avoid border hassles. While en route I met two riders, also traveling south, and having the same border concerns,  who did what you are thinking, riding north up to the border, and then turning around, riding south. They said border security chased them, brought them back, and detained them for hours, questioning them why they did what they did. You are warned.

Gear Talk / Re: Parrafin heads only
« on: April 25, 2014, 01:45:11 pm »

dkoloko, where can I find that Berto reference?  Google fails me.

Was in Bicycling Magazine; reference to test not done by Bicycling. Drivetrain, incidentally, means more than chain. As to trouble to wax, of course not cleaning shortens time re-lubricating. Waxing isn't that much trouble for me. Touring, I have my stove out, my pots out; little trouble to unsnap chain connecter, give a quick swish of cloth to knock out any outside grit on chain, and pop in pot in wax can to simmer. As to those who say one rain removed wax, for me, takes an extended downpour for chain to need re-lubing. My estimate of 500 miles between waxing, means surviving heavy rains, means may have ridden more than 500 miles before needing to re-wax; maybe less, not a lot less. My worst experience waxing involved a New Hampshire bike shop. Mechanic seeing clean chain surmised chain needs lubrication, and poured so much liquid lubricant on chain that it sprayed lube for days in spite my wiping chain number of times.

Gear Talk / Re: Parrafin heads only
« on: April 24, 2014, 03:46:05 pm »
I use paraffin riding locally and touring; have done so for decades. Weight of my can of paraffin is 10 oz; could reduce amount of paraffin. Application touring lasts me about 500 miles. This means for a 1000  mile tour I wax once on tour.

Don't forget "and another time every time it rains."  Chacun a son gout.

No, no, no, no! About every 500 miles, including rain days. As far as all the trouble to wax every 500 miles, it's less trouble for me to wax than to clean and oil type lubricate chain, and, as explained, I enjoy extra long life from my drivetrain components. The topic originator asked that there be no lube wars. Keep that in mind when you think you have a clever comeback.

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