Frame Saver or T-9?

[peterharris]

I've got a fairly new steel-frame bike and have been caught in a couple of torrential downpours. After the first time, I didn't think much about it, wiped the bike down, and put it in the shed until the next ride. The next time I got ready to ride I tilted the bike up for some reason and orange water poured out through the weep holes on the chainstays - maybe as much as a tablespoon for each side. I started asking around for suggestions on how to protect the interior of the frame. I got rained on hard the other day but before putting the bike away I made sure to tilt it up and drain any water out - maybe 1-2 teaspoons each this time.

My LBS initially suggested a product called "Frame Saver" but they're a small biz and don't seem to be able to get their hands on any of the stuff for another month or two. They do have Boeshield T-9 which the mfgr claims is good for "inside frame" as well as for chains, derailleurs, etc: "Solvent Base flushes out old lubricants. Penetrates deeply to thoroughly coat inner pins and rollers. Dries to a clean Paraffin Wax film so it will not pick up dirt. Lubricates and protects for 150 to 200 miles per application."

Thoughts? Opinions? Ideas? I'm not sure I want to use it as a general-purpose lube or chain lube but I may be interested in it as a frame-saver.


(>> I just checked a couple of on-line bike shops and Frame Saver seems to be on back order. I checked Amazon and they don't have it but the first product that popped up when I did a Frame Saver search was ... Boeshield T-9).

[DaveB]

I've used Frame Saver and it works well but is pricey and often hard to find locally.  However, there is a great "alternative", Amsiol HDMP, which is available at many independent auto parts shops and NAPA auto parts stores. 

HDMP is absolutely identical to Frame Saver and I'm certain Weigel just has it repackaged with his name on the cans.   HDMP comes in a larger spray can then Frame Saver and costs less and applies and works the same way.  I've used it on two frames with great results and I highly recommend you get some and use it. 

[Pat]

Our LBS used boiled linseed oil.  They buy it by the gallon, and use it to coat the insides of everything.  They swear by it.

Pat

[DaveB]

Our LBS used boiled linseed oil.  They buy it by the gallon, and use it to coat the insides of everything.  They swear by it.

Pat

Linseed oil is a coating but that's all.  It's only advantage is low price and availability from any paint or hardware store.  It's also more difficult to apply properly, particularly to the chain and seat stays and fork blades and is very slow drying.   

Frame saver and HDMP contain rust inhibitors as well as a wax coating and are very thin and spray easily into even tiny vent holes and then are easy to distribute evenly before they dry which is rather quickly

[Pat]

Cool Dave - if that works for you.

Happy trails,

Pat

[DaveB]

Cool Dave - if that works for you.

Happy trails,

Pat

Actually, it works for anyone who uses it if you apply it properly.

[waynemyer]

Treating modern steel frames is just a talisman and products such as Frame Saver are only necessary to separate cyclists from their dollars. Unless you are regularly immersing your frame or exposing your frame to other catalysts, specifically salt, CrMo frames will form a small amount of surface oxidation and that's it. Seriously, when was the last time you even heard of a steel frame developing more rust than surface scaling?

More importantly, grease your seatpost and put on full coverage fenders. No more water in frame.

[DaveB]

More importantly, grease your seatpost and put on full coverage fenders. No more water in frame.

The OP didn't find that to be the case

[BobG]

Seriously, when was the last time you even heard of a steel frame developing more rust than surface scaling?

I did about 20 years ago on my Bill Vetter touring frame. It had been professionally re-painted a couple of years before and looked brand new so I had no concerns about rust in the near future. A bubble of paint appeared on the top tube and this is what was below. I'm not certain, but I think the rust started on the surface perhaps caused by sweat dripping from above. It served me well though. One Trans Am and several long trips through the Rockies and France.

[waynemyer]

I did about 20 years ago on my Bill Vetter touring frame. It had been professionally re-painted a couple of years before and looked brand new so I had no concerns about rust in the near future. A bubble of paint appeared on the top tube and this is what was below. I'm not certain, but I think the rust started on the surface perhaps caused by sweat dripping from above. It served me well though. One Trans Am and several long trips through the Rockies and France.

So there's one.

More importantly, grease your seatpost and put on full coverage fenders. No more water in frame.

The OP didn't find that to be the case

I read the OP repeatedly. I don't see anything saying that the seatpost has been explicitly greased.

[DaveB]

More importantly, grease your seatpost and put on full coverage fenders. No more water in frame.

The OP didn't find that to be the case

I read the OP repeatedly. I don't see anything saying that the seatpost has been explicitly greased.

The OP didn't have problems with water getting into the seat tube.  He  wrote; "I tilted the bike up for some reason and orange water poured out through the weep holes on the chainstays."  Greasing the seatpost wouldn't have helped this. 

Actually, I don't expect a steel frame will rust through in any reasonable time unless subject to very frequent rain and/or salt conditions as in the Pacific Northwest or if ridden throughout the winter in the Northeast or Midweast.   However, Frame Saver/Amsoil HEDP are so cheap and so easy to apply that I see no reason to avoid them and they can do  a world of good if you really want to protect a steel frame long term.   

Case in point: I have an '83 Trek 400 lugged steel frame that was my rain/errand bike for many years.  I treated it with Frame Saver when I first got it (1998) and after 12 years of rain and abuse it is still completely solid and rust free.  And, yes, I've poured water out of the frame tubes after a heavy rain despite a lot of grease on the seatpost.  Cheap insurance.   

[paddleboy17]

Treating modern steel frames is just a talisman and products such as Frame Saver are only necessary to separate cyclists from their dollars. Unless you are regularly immersing your frame or exposing your frame to other catalysts, specifically salt, CrMo frames will form a small amount of surface oxidation and that's it. Seriously, when was the last time you even heard of a steel frame developing more rust than surface scaling?

More importantly, grease your seatpost and put on full coverage fenders. No more water in frame.

In my neighborhood, they use road salt in the winter time, and I worry about my frame rusting out.  So I bought and applied frame saver.  It left a thick film on the inside of the frame, and I expect it to extend the life of the frame.

[cara2u]

   I use LPS on my steel frames. I think any of the above products are better than nothing at all.
Cara

[dkoloko]

"Linseed oil is a coating but that's all.  It's only advantage is low price and availability from any paint or hardware store.  It's also more difficult to apply properly, particularly to the chain and seat stays and fork blades and is very slow drying."

Boiled linseed oil is boiled to accelerate drying.   

[DaveB]

"Linseed oil is a coating but that's all.  It's only advantage is low price and availability from any paint or hardware store.  It's also more difficult to apply properly, particularly to the chain and seat stays and fork blades and is very slow drying."

Boiled linseed oil is boiled to accelerate drying.

Yes but that doesn't make it dry fast, only faster than raw oil which takes forever to dry.   Also linseed oil is only a coating and has to rely on a film free of voids to work.  Frame Saver and Amsiol not only dry in a tiny fraction of the time of any type linseed oil but also contain specific corrosion inhibitors that protect far better than linseed oil.