Canada to Mexico through California

[mnichols]

Hello,

I’m planning a credit card cycle tour from Canada to Mexico (Vancouver to San Diego via the Mexican Border) in September and I am looking for some friendly, local route advice.

A little background: I am from England and whilst I have done lots of cycle touring I have never been to America before, so any local advice would be appreciated.  There will be 3 of us travelling the full 2300 miles in just under 4 weeks.  We will be travelling fast and light on road bikes with minimal luggage.   We will be unsupported for the first 2 weeks, and then my wife will be flying out and joining us in a car near Yosemite for the 2nd half of the trip.  We will be staying in hotels, motels and cheap B&Bs.   The flights and hotels are already booked and paid for so these daily start and stop can’t change.  I have mapped the route using ridewithgps.com. google and Wikipedia as I don’t have local knowledge (flew over New York once – does that count?).  We have tried to string together places of interest so the route does zig zag a bit and it’s not a race

The basic route is: Fly into Vancouver, island hop to Victoria, west around the Olympic National Park on US 101 for 700 miles to Arcata, head east through the Shasta-Trinity National Park through Weaverville and Willow Creek (a highlight for me) to Reading, then to Lake Almanor, then south to Lake Tahoe and Lake Topaz.  West through the Stanislaus National Forest to bring us to the west side of Yosemite near Groveland. West through Yosemite and then take in Grant Lake and June Lake.  South, skirting Death Valley to Bishop and Ridgecrest.  South through Big Bear Lake, Hemet, Ramona to Mexico and then back up the coast to San Diego.

The detailed route is:

Day 1: Vancouver to Victoria 84 miles 2129 feet
Day 2: Victoria to Forks 57 miles 2890 feet
Day 3: Forks to Aberdeen 104 miles 3690 feet
Day 4: Aberdeen to Astoria 102 miles 3565 feet
Day 5: Astoria to Lincoln City 92 miles 4794 feet
Day 6: Lincoln City to Reedsport 99 miles 5258 feet
Day 7: Reedsport to Gold Beach 109 miles 5355 feet
Day 8: Gold Beach to Klamath 75 miles 4725 feet
Day 9: Klamath to Arcata 57 miles 3172 feet
Day 10: Arcata to Willow Creek 42.2 miles 4694 feet
Day 11: Willow Creek to Redding 102 miles 8645 feet
Day 12: Redding to Chester 107 miles 10047 feet
Day 13: Chester to Portola 79 miles 4695 feet
Day 14: Portola to Lake Tahoe 91 miles 6122 feet
Day 15: Lake Tahoe to Topaz Lake 36 miles 2805 feet
Day 16: Topaz Lake to Arnold 74 miles 8647 feet
Day 17: Arnold to Yosemite West Gate 62 miles 6687 feet
Day 18: Yosemite West Gate to June Lake 94 miles 1189 feet
Day 19: June Lake to Bishop 60 miles 2351 feet
Day 20: Bishop to Olancha 82 miles 1417 feet
Day 21: Olancha to Ridgecrest 47 miles 810 feet
Day 22: Ridgecrest to Victorville 93 miles 3601 feet
Day 23: Victorville to Big Bear Lake 53 miles 4720 feet
Day 24: Big Bear Lake to Hemet 80 miles 3820 feet
Day 25: Hemet to Ramona 102 miles 7401 feet
Day 26: Ramona to Mexico/San Diego 76 miles 2436 feet

The route makes sense on paper, but would really like some local advice about the best route between these towns, places to see, avoid and the does and don’ts – we don’t have Bears, Wolves, Rattlesnakes and Scorpions in England. 

I’m happy to share my route on ridewithgps

Thank you in advance

Martin

[dayjack119]

Welcome to the USA.  Here's hoping you Brits have the time of your life in our country and that you meet many of our generous and friendly citizens while here.  Too bad you don't have more time.  I would tell you to go at half the speed so that you are not just passing through.  I rode a portion of that route last summer and there were many other riders with the same idea.  I teamed up off and on with bicycle tourists from Germany, Netherlands, Canada, Belgium and other Americans while using the hiker/biker campgrounds and I have to to say the camaraderie made it the most enriching trip ever.  The way you are doing it, the tendency is to stay in your own group and you miss dealing with others along the way.

Monterey south to Moro Bay, California on the Pacific Coast Highway is iconic, the ride of a lifetime.  I hate to see you miss it.

The following is my route map from last year if it will help.  I finish the rest of the coast next season.
https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zobmp9RdFhRI.k2SE9GEV_SHI

Enjoy America.  It is the Best!

[johnsondasw]

Wow! I hope you're in great shape.  Your mileages and elevation gains sound gnarly hard to me.  10,000 feet and over 100 miles in a day, combined with many other what I would consider very hard days.....  I did the Pacifiic Coast route when 56 years old, unsupported, hauling a Burley trailer.  We averaged 72 miles per day.  I was in good shape and had had 25 years of touring. Still, for me, I felt after the tour that I would have enjoyed it more at a 60 mpd average.  But that's me, and your crew may consist of much stronger riders.

I'm sure you will have a great time and hope you enjoy your trip through some of the world's best riding. All the best.

[RSN473]

Martin -
i am quite familiar with most of the area from Yosemite (day 18) to Big Bear (day 24)- feel free to use me as a resource as you get closer to your trip.  A couple minor suggestions:

Day 18:  You might consider staying in Lee Vining instead of June Lake - you don't need to leave 395 like you will for June Lake and it is just a little less scenic.  I have stayed at Murphy's Motel and always been satisfied.

Day 20:  Consider staying in Lone Pine instead of Olancha.  Lone Pine is a much nicer town (they even have a hostel) and Olancha doesn't have much in the way of lodging.  it only adds 25 miles to your next day.

Cheers!
Ron

[zzzz]

Hi Martin:

The advice you asked for sounded more like a request for fine tuning that what I'm going to suggest but here's something to consider:

Last September I rode (solo) the "Sierra Cascades" ACA route in 28 days as a credit card tour which is similar to the inland portion of your trip and I was riding at a similar pace. I'm going to suggest you consider heading east while still somewhere along the Oregon coast and pick up that route.

I would make a left in Reedsport and get on 138 and take it in to Crater Lake which is one of the most spectacular sights you will ever see. And from then on for the rest of your trip I would follow the balance of the SC route (maps 3,4,& 5). It will take you through Tahoe,Yosemite, and Big Bear Lake like your route but you'll also see Shasta, & Lassen, & Kings Canyon and (the highlight of the trip for me) Giant Sequoia, indelible sights one & all.

Alternatively, you can head east earlier around Florence and go over McKenzie Pass (second coolest pass in the country) and then down into Sisters or you can head east at Gold Beach and head into Ashland but anyway you do it I think you'll get the best stuff to see on the SC route over what you've got laid out currently for your trip.

In particular I'm looking at that 300 miles of 395 in SoCal and I hear it can be quite lovely but that's a pretty major highway and over the ridge line is (mostly) quiet rural roads and some of the most beautiful landscape in the country.

The only negative thing I can say about the SC is that while all the roads are paved, you will run into some that could really use to be resurfaced.

Think about it....

Pete

And BTW: Make sure you're in really good shape before you leave because whether you take my suggestions or you stick with your original route, doing that in 26 days is going to be a test.

[John Nelson]

Get a copy of the Oregon Coast Bike Route Map published by the Oregon Department of Transportation (it's free!). You can either pick it up when you get to Oregon, or send away for it now. You can even print it off online if you want, but I recommend you get a real copy. It mostly follows US 101, but it takes parallel roads occasionally that offer you outstanding scenery and lower traffic. You won't have to change your daily destinations at all as it goes through all the cities you listed. And it won't add more than a trivial distance to your daily mileages. But some of those roads are not to be missed. I highly recommend the Otter Crest Loop (just south of Lincoln City) past Cape Foulweather. It's virtually the same distance as the parallel US 101.

[mnichols]

Brilliant and invaluable advice so far. Thank you

Please keep it coming, I will look at it all in detail and seriously consider any advice offered

American friendliness and helpfulness is legendary

Thanks again

Martin

[staehpj1]

The route makes sense on paper, but would really like some local advice about the best route between these towns, places to see, avoid and the does and don’ts – we don’t have Bears, Wolves, Rattlesnakes and Scorpions in England. 

I have ridden the SC between San Diego and Reno and also ridden down the PCH.  I will say that you have chosen a very tough route and are proposing a very ambitious pace.  I won't comment on whether you are biting off more than you can chew because I don't know you, but I will say that your route and pace would be too ambitious for 99% of the bike tourists I have met including myself.  It would be too much mileage for most folks on the coast and a lot of your route is MUCH more difficult.

Strong winds and steep climbs are likely to be combined with extreme heat some of the way any time after all the passes are cleared of snow.  We had 110F heat for some of that route and we were early enough in the season that a lot of facilities at Yosemite were not yet open after winter damage. 

As far as the "Bears, Wolves, Rattlesnakes and Scorpions", beyond using good sense with regard to food storage in bear country, I wouldn't worry much about critters.

My suggestion would be to try to allow a good bit of flexibility in your time table in case you find that the pace is a bit much.  100 mile days, some of them with over 5000' of climbing are tough in any case, but throw in a howling wind and/or some 100F+ heat and you may not find your proposed pace realistic.  Barring that you might leave open the option to stay on the coast more of the trip if necessary.

Another thing...  I am not one to usually take days off from riding when on tour, but Yosemite is well worth taking several days or a week to see and do some hiking.

[mnichols]

Is there anything I need to know about crossing the border between Canada and America on a bicycle?

[John Nelson]

Is there anything I need to know about crossing the border between Canada and America on a bicycle?

It's not much different than doing it in a car. You just have to decide whether you should wait in line with the cars or skirt around them. You kind of have to read which is better at the crossing. Crossing from US to Canada is usually a minimum of protocol. Crossing from Canada to US is a bit more heavily scrutinized. The Canadian officials seem relaxed and friendly. The US officials seem serious and skeptical. I've never had my panniers searched in either direction. They just ask you the normal questions, such as how long you were in the other country, what you were doing there and if you're carrying any alcohol. If the crossing is not busy and the officer is curious, you may get questions about your tour.

It looks like you'll be taking the ferry from Victoria, BC to Port Angeles, WA. I'm not sure if you'll go through immigration on the ferry or after you land. You will of course need your passport. You may be eligible for the visa waiver program.

[mnichols]

Thanks for the help

and if you're carrying any alcohol.

I wasn't going to carry any alcohol, but can do if it helps

[zzzz]

Martin:

staehpj1's post made me want to add these thoughts to my previous comments.

Whenever I read a post like your original post I think that I'm reading someone who likes to approach these trips the way I do. That is, I like to set up a ride thats at the edge of what I can physically do while going by some amazing scenery. This is a unusual way to approach a bike tour. There is another possibility and that is when someone posts a schedule like you have, they are being optimistic or even naive.

If what you want is in line with my approach, you 3 are experienced  riders, and you are traveling light for the first 2 weeks of your trip as a CC tour, and you will be supported during the last 2 weeks so you really shouldn't be carrying anything then except snacks and water, and if it's windy you'll keep a nice tight pace-line, and you are ready to deal with it if it's hot, or raining, or you're doing your second (or third) really big climb of the day and it's late in the afternoon, you should be okay as you've laid out your schedule.

Just keep in mind you are likely to be beat to exhaustion most every night. I certainly was on my trip over this terrain on a similar schedule. And while I saw a lot of cool stuff there was no time to explore places like Yosemite. So do the trip you want but make sure you're going into it w eyes wide open.

Changing gears....

"You just have to decide whether you should wait in line with the cars or skirt around them. You kind of have to read which is better at the crossing."

In September of 2013 I crossed from Canada into the US at the Waterton Lakes NP into Glacier NP border station. For those not familiar with that road it's a pretty good climb up to the border and that September day it was raining pretty hard and in the 50° range. When I got to the crossing itself as I was waiting between 2 RV's I started to get pretty cold and thought it made a whole lot of sense to walk over & wait my turn under the shelter at the border-cross building. The 2 guys working the crossing did not think much of that idea. It got pretty ugly, pretty fast. As a matter of fact, I think I can say it was the most unpleasant,most unprofessional encounter w a law enforcement agency I've ever had.

Ahhh, my tax dollars at work!

I'm not saying you will have a similar experience, I believe these two agents were exceptional. But take John's advice seriously about getting a read on the situation before breaking any kind of protocol, it may mean a much more pleasant introduction to the US.

Pete

[mnichols]

Thanks Guys,

All of you have been supportive, but have advised some caution with the challenge in terms of miles per day, the amount of climbing and the pace.  None of this has fallen on deaf ears and I have discussed it at length with my friends.

It is at the edge of what we can do, it is further and farther than I have done before, but I do have some prior experience which suggests that we have some hope of completing the tour.

As I mentioned in my original post I haven't cycled in the US or through desert before, so I may be missing something.  I thought it might be an idea to give you some of my background and my training plans and see if you think it is adequate

I'm 46 and starting cycling 8 years ago.  The furthest I have cycled in one day is 180 miles, most Sundays I will do 100 and will increase this to 150 miles in the summer.  The furthest I have cycled in a week is 700 miles and 1200 miles in 2 weeks.  The most climbing I have done in a day is around 15,000 feet, but have done +10,000 quite a few times.  My touring experience is:

2009:  England to Italy, 1000 miles 14 days over the Massive Central and Alps - including Col de la Bonnet 2800 meters
2010:  England to Spain, 700 miles, 7 days over the Pyrenees, including Col de Tourmalet
2011: Land End to John O'Groats, 1000 miles in 12 days
2012: Raid Alps (Nice to Geneva), 500ish miles in 5 days, 32 cols, up to 7 per day
2013:  End to End of Italy, 1200 miles in 14 days
2014: Nice to Switzerland (over the Dolomites) and down to Nice. +500 miles in 7 days, but many mountains including Stelvio
2014: Barcelona to Bordeaux (500 miles in 7 days), but including Raid Pyrenees route which is 22 cols in 100 hours

I am currently cycling 3 days per week (it's winter here), and will build that to 5 days per week in the summer
Training tours will be a loop of Wales which is 580 miles in 4 days - I'll do that twice in May,plus a few others still to be planned - possibly in the Alps

One of the other chaps will be doing the Himalayas in July including 5 peaks over 5000 meters and base camp Everest - so if he survives that then I think he will be fine.  The other guys are much younger and I am confident in their ability as they did Barcelona to Bordeaux with us

I am only posting this as most of you have voiced concerned and I would like to know if you think that is sufficient, or if I am missing something

Thanks for all the advice and concern

Kind Regards

Martin 

[staehpj1]

That is a seriously difficult route.  Since you seem to understand the difficulties and are seriously preparing for them, it sounds like you are on the right track.  I would still suggest that it would be wise to build some flexibility into the plan in the form of extra time or alternate routing.

One thing that I suggest is to be careful about water availability.  There are some towns in the Sierras with no water, so plan for that and don't assume a town necessarily means there will be water.  This can be a real danger especially in 110F heat.

Not much you can do to prepare for it, but I seem to often wind up in forest fire smoke for days on end when I bike or backpack in the Sierras.  You might want to keep an eye on the smoke conditions and alter your route if that seems to make sense.

[zzzz]

Your resume makes me feel you will be fine. And your September start date means you should miss to worst of the heat. And if it keeps raining in California the draught will be good and broken which will make the possibility of fire smoke much less.

Have a great time.

Pete