Installing rack and fenders tomorrow, quick question

[Nyimbo]

Tomorrow I am installing fenders and racks on my REI Randonee with braze-ons.  This is my first time to install either, so knowing my mechanical skill this may take awhile.  I'm wondering what do I want to install first, the RACK or the FENDERS?

I doubt it matters but if it does, I am installing a used Tubus Tara and new Planet Bike Cascade Fenders.

Oh also, do the wheels come off or stay on for installation?

[RonK]

It depends on the number of eyelets on the forks and whether the bike has disc brakes.
I suggest you Google images of the Tubus Tara to see the various mounting options.
There is no need to remove the wheel.
You need to fit the rack first, this will determine where the fender stays are attached.
You can also download instructions from the Tubus site.

[Nyimbo]

Thanks RonK,
I don't have disc brakes.  I assumed the instructions would be in the box but if not I will download.  I have eyelets, on the front fork I used the term braze-ons - is that the same thing? Trying to learn the vocabulary. Anyway there are two on the bottom on both sides of where the tire sits.  There are two up the fork.  The one facing the outward is roughly 8" up the fork, and the one facing the spokes is roughly 4" up. 

I've had the fender a month or so and I remember seeing instructions there as well but my biggest question was which to install first because I doubt the instructions of either will address the other.

Actually I did do a google pic search already but I couldn't really see how they were both connected in the pics where I could see anything. 

Thanks, I'll work my way through it and start with the rear fender. The rear rack came with the bike so that part is already done so I will add the fender as best I can and then move to the front.

[DaveB]

If there are only one pair of eyelets at the rear dropouts and you need to "double-up" both the rack and fender stays on them, be sure to fit the rack's stays to the inside.  That minimizes the cantilevered load on the single M5 bolt. 

[Pat Lamb]

If there are only one pair of eyelets at the rear dropouts and you need to "double-up" both the rack and fender stays on them, be sure to fit the rack's stays to the inside.  That minimizes the cantilevered load on the single M5 bolt.

Since I masquerade as an engineer 40 hours a week, I have to concur.

OTOH, it was easier to put my fenders inside, and didn't have any problem carrying too much weight across the country, so I doubt it matters.  Just use some Locktite and snug the bolt down good.

[DaveB]

Since I masquerade as an engineer 40 hours a week, I have to concur.

OTOH, it was easier to put my fenders inside, and didn't have any problem carrying too much weight across the country, so I doubt it matters.  Just use some Locktite and snug the bolt down good.

So did I before I retired and my recommendation was based on good engineering practice, not an assurance the bolt will fail if done the other way.     

[Nyimbo]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I do have two eyelets so they seem to both go on without doubling up, however, I thought I was finished as I finally had everything lined up, but when putting in the bolts and tightening up it seems the rack legs have to go over the top of the hex bolt I used on the fender which makes the rack bolt sit to far away from the eyelet. I have longer bolts but (not an engineer) it looks like that isn't as strong that way.  I'll keep playing with it.

On my first try I had the rack and the fender in the opposite eyelets and everything fit evenly and snug - but when I turned the bike back to rightsize up the tube for placing the panniers was not level.  After swapping the two to the other eyelets makes everything level but now I  have the new problem

[Pat Lamb]

It's really better if you put the rack on first, then use the longer bolts (possibly with one of those plastic spacers) to put the fender, or you could just use one eyelet and put the fender over the rack with one long bolt.  You may have to bend the fender stays out to make either work.

[RonK]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I do have two eyelets so they seem to both go on without doubling up, however, I thought I was finished as I finally had everything lined up, but when putting in the bolts and tightening up it seems the rack legs have to go over the top of the hex bolt I used on the fender which makes the rack bolt sit to far away from the eyelet. I have longer bolts but (not an engineer) it looks like that isn't as strong that way.  I'll keep playing with it.

On my first try I had the rack and the fender in the opposite eyelets and everything fit evenly and snug - but when I turned the bike back to rightsize up the tube for placing the panniers was not level.  After swapping the two to the other eyelets makes everything level but now I  have the new problem

If the rack is better aligned on the rear eyelet then you should attach the fender stays to the tab on the rack.

[canalligators]

Losing a rack or fender bolt on tour is common.  They vibrate loose and fall out.  Do three things: use blue Loc-Tite on the bolts, check them every week or so, and carry a couple of spares.

[mzaremsk]

Zip ties are my "goto" field fix for lost fender bolts (and a lot more).

Sent from my XT1019 using Tapatalk

[Pat Lamb]

Zip ties are my "goto" field fix for lost fender bolts (and a lot more).

I lost a mounting bolt on either a rack or a fender one night coming home.  Asked a local resident for a bread bag twist tie.  It got me home.  Barely.  The proper bolt works better, and (with Loktite) is still there years later.

[jrswenberger]

If clearance allows, nylock nuts beat loctite by a long shot.

[Pat Lamb]

If clearance allows, nylock nuts beat loctite by a long shot.

I'm curious why you think so.  The only advantage of nylock nuts I can think of is the ease of installation.

[jrswenberger]

If clearance allows, nylock nuts beat loctite by a long shot.

I'm curious why you think so.  The only advantage of nylock nuts I can think of is the ease of installation.

For a bike used at home, it makes no difference since I always have Loctite available. Out on tour, Loctite is just one more piece of gear I leave behind so the security of the nylock nut is peace of mind... especially while flying as disassembly and reassembly of racks and fenders becomes necessary.

Jay